for those of you who are JUST replacing the belts (and not the tensioners), this is a 5min job (maybe a 10min job if you work slowly). The air filter box, and radiator fan/shroud, DO NOT need to to come off to get to the belts. All you have to do is loosen the tensioners (16mm socket) and slip the belts off. And like he says in the video, take the lower (A/C) belt off first. Once the A/C belt is off, loosen the second (main) tensioner and the main belt can be slipped around/past the fan and out. The new belts can go back on in the reverse order, it is really that simple. the only tools you will need is a 16mm socket wrench. (the A/C belt is easier to get to if you put the car on jacks and work from the bottom)
BenDC85 MY belt snapped on the weekend and the car got a bit warm. I maybe drove about a km before stopping and letting it cool . The oil seems to be fine(not milky or mayonaise like ) would belt replacement and pressure test be the prognosis ?
My ‘97 2.8L Z3 required the removal of the air box, fan, fan shroud which included the expansion tank for me to even get access and clearance for the bolts. It only took about 1-2 hours to replace the belts
I know this was a long time ago, but what model is that true for? I have a 2002 z3 3.0i. The belt broke yesterday. I can't find the fan removal tools anywhere in town. Ordering them will take a month right now. Maybe because of the shutdowns. I hope you can tell me that I can replace the belt with just a 16mm socket! Thanks!
The air conditioner belt tension pully , upper mounting bolt was removed in the beginning of the process. No where in the completion of the job, after belts replaced, does it show or say that that bolt (upper bolt on the air conditioning tension pully) needs to be replace. This is a very important step and was left out of the video,However, this video was very helpful and very much appreciated for me, not being a mechanic, saved me at least a couple hundred dollars. Thank you
Invaluable Information & Video ... Did my 2000 BMW Z3 today, changing pulleys and belts and the power steering fluid filter .. save myself tons of bucks with this video at my side .. Thanks!!
Thanks for your notes. There are indeed, differences between specific engine models, in placement and use of idler pulleys as well as the differences in mechanical vs hydraulic tensioners.
You guys did an excellent video, probably one of the best on youtube! However the OP to this question should note that there are some models with the M54 (such as 330ci) that will have an additional idler pulley positioned above the tensioner that the belt runs under. This pulley is often the source of bearing noise when worn. anyway, thanks BA I was able to complete this project his weekend thanks you!
The idlers are "hard mounted" and direct the belt in order to apply additional torque to a driven pulley or to direct the belt to the next pulley. A tensioner pulley is spring or hydraulically mounted an "pushes" or "pulls" on the belt in order to keep the belt tight on the pulleys.
I really just wanted to say thank you this video was the shit .......i have a BMW 530I the only the diff was the fan shroud because the radiators hose is part of that assemble but after you get that out this video is 100% and way easy ....trust me i can believe to tell you the money i saved for about 2hrs of work thank you once again
I love RU-vid, I was looking because a shop said I should replace my belts and wants $630 to do the job. they also want $260 to replace the fuel filter. I dont like doing the mechanics myself but these prices are insane for the amount of labor involved. I guess I will scratch them off my list and/or do it myself.
@mmoniot - We haven't found a 100% rule in determining which models have the separate idler pulleys and which don't. In fact, the BMW micro-film for this 2001 3.0 Z3 shows an idler on the main belt. Obviously, there is none. An idler pulley helps the belt to properly wrap around one or more of the accessory drive pulleys. The non-idler applications have a different belt routing that the idler applications. Idler pulleys are secured by a bolt through the center of the pulley.
I replaced all of my pulleys and belts this Saturday just gone 14th/06/2014 . My car is 2002 530i MSport, virtually everything shown above is correct except when he slides out the fan cowling. At the bottom of the cowling there is several heaters hoses attached which you also need to un hook. Not disconnected I managed to slide it up high enough and twist it to right to get it all out the way without discoonecting those hoses, however you will need to disconnect the little black hose that attaches to the header tank on the right hand side of the top of the radiator. It is a bit awkward but then i simply laid the cowling back onto the engine allowing enough room to access the lot. Whole job took 1.5 hours taking my time. I only had to add a cup full of coolant afterwards. Works perfectly , used OEM parts and replaced all pulleys and belts
As noted in the video, you do not need to remove the radiator (or the hoses) in order to replace the belts and the pulleys. We removed them so that we could get a better view of the belts and pulleys with the video camera. We would normally only remove the fan and the fan shroud.
It should be noted that this particular M54 motor in this Z3 apparently does not have an idler pulley. Would be an interesting side note to explain why some M54's do and some do not have this additional pulley and also what it does, especially since most viewers probably have an E46 (which has an idler pulley on its M54).
Great video! Very helpful, but I managed to change both belts in my e39 without taking off visco fan and air filter. I only had to remove radiator hose. It wasn't very easy but job done.
Remove the plastic center cap on the tensioner pulley and use a Torx or hew bit (with a ratchet) to press against the hydraulic piston (in the same manner as shown for the mechanical tensioner).
You will need at least a 3/8" drive socket set. However, a 1/2" drive set would be better, especially for detensioning the tensioner. The socket used for the detensioning in the video is 17mm. However, different models may have different sizes.
@chicoloco101 - While you may or may not "need" a new tensioner or idler pulley, it would certainly be wise to replace all of the pulleys. This will assure that you do not have a pulley failure at some point after replacing the belts. A faulty pulley can cause an annoying squeal and eventually will seize or come apart. This will result in loss of and damage to the belts .... as well as a full vehicle failure as the water pump and alternator will no longer be operating.
DeTensioning the belt was accomplished with a T50(60? can't remember) as shown here. The tensioner can be removed after the idler pulley was removed. If you're changing your tensioners, you might as well change the idler pulley as well. Assembly is the reverse of removal.
Well, we're not sure just whet the mechanic may have had in mind, but the belt replacement certainly does not require removal of the turbocharger. The belt is accessed through the passenger wheel-well area. Remove the wheel, then remove the inner plastic shielding.
Thanks!! I'm guessing right now that it is (was actually - it's working fine now after 200 or so miles!) the secondary cooling fan (which is why it could keep sounding for a few seconds, after the engine was turned off). I'll have it looked at by my mechanic here in Dallas next oil change.
Yes, all of our videos are fully edited so we can show hours of work in a few minute video. We did indeed use the hammer to break this one free. In our overall experience, on many models, they do usually break free with a good crisp hammer hit. You typically do need the pulley holder tool, so that the pulley does not turn when you hit the hammer. If the pulley is held secure so that it cannot move, the hammer blow will do the trick most of the time. Just remember, the thread is left-hand.
If the pulley has any play or roughness when rotated ... replace it. The further school of thought is to always replace the pulleys when replacing the belts. If a pulley seizes or gets too wobbly (loose), it will throw the belt, resulting is a road side tow and subsequent repair .... or damaged engine due to overheating.
The M50 will be very similar. Any differences will be more due to whether the engine has a mechanical tensioner (as shown in the video) or a hydraulic tensioner.
Very useful video. Quick question since i only know little to nothing about my 00' bmw e46. My car started to sound like cramp coming from under the hood for about 2 months now. Some says it was the tension and the belt? if so, should i continuing driving it like that for a while or should i get it check out?
You shouldn't have any specific trouble in de-tensioning the belt by rotating the tensioner pulley against the tensioner. Once the pulley is rotated, pull the belt off of one of the pulleys and then release the pulley.
Gr8 video. Well done. Thanx. Have a 325i 2002 model, on mornings cold start and misfires. After a few minites it idlies fine . What is the cause of that?
Without the pulley holder tool, you certainly could be rotating the belt, pulleys and engine, with the 32mm wrench. This will not cause any damage, but can be frustrating. Bavarian Autosport does offer both the pulley holder tool and the 32mm wrench. Note, in the video, how we suggest that a hammer be used (against the 32mm wrench) to shock the nut loose. See our website at bavauto.com or call us at 800-535-2002
I have a 2004 E46 325ci with a a Hydraulic detensionizer. Is removing tension on the hydraulic model the same as the electrical model? i would like to know before I start removing the fan and attempting to replace my belts. Thank you !!!
Quick question, if I only want to replace the a/c belt at the moment, do I still have to remove the fan? It looks accessible from the bottom, but I don't want to cause any problems. My car is a 97 328 sedan
We do not actually offer vehicle service at our NH headquarters. We can see that, with our knowledge, it would appear that we are servicing the vehicles. We did start into this business servicing and repairing BMWs, back in the '70s. We now operate the online, phone and catalog business. Our continued knowledge comes from still being enthusiasts and owning and driving these cars. Unlike some enthusiast oriented businesses, our employee parking is packed with BMWs and MINIs. 800-535-2002
How was it to remove the belt and tensioner with the additional idler? It seems that the idler is restricting access to the bolt for the upper tensioner. Is there a particular sequence to removing and assembling?
Question: I have a 2002 330ci and have had an on and off high-pitched whine over the past few days (when it whines, it's full loudness and when it's not, car sounds fully fine It's always one or the other when start 'er up). When it's there, I turn engine off, engine comes to a complete stop yet the whine continues for a full second or two and THEN winds down. Any idea what it might be? (The idler pullys have stopped while the whine continues for a sec or two ... and THEN slows).
one question will it couse any damage or problem when trying to take the fan off but the whole belt system spinns. because i cant find a fan clutch removeal?
I have a 2002 E53 3.0 M54. I want to replace the belts and tensioners, but would like to be thorough while the belts are off. I am going to also replace the water pump. What other parts/pulleys should I replace while its opened up?
I have a 2000 BMW 528i with a sports package and it looks the exact same as this one for putting it back together I don't know if it had or didn't have a idler like some pictures show but its lookes like this were there is none
I can't seem to get the belt back on, even when the tensioner is at its loosest. I know the belt is correct because it fell off when the power steering pump prong broke off, so I replaced that, so the belt must go back on, I would think that one would loosen the tensioner and slide the belt back on just like you did and then tighten the tensioner back, but I can't seem to get the belt on. I tried a couple of cheap installers, but they were too small and didn't fit, the magnets don't stick, I just can't figure it out. Mine is an E38 2000. Any ideas?
i have a 2003 bmw 745li and i have problem with my belt i change the belt 4 times and the idler and tensioner but i found out that i have to use a belt from the dealer i can put a new belt on and it will work good for about 2 weeks are 1500 miles then it will start squeezing again do you think i have to get a tensioner pulley from the dealer
At 2:25 I call BULL ISH!! I see they cut and edit the clip. Just a hammer will not get that fan off. Have to use some break free and let it soak for like 10 minutes. I know, I know, i'm not mad. Just saying that part is usually difficult. Be sure to put anti-sieze on the fan clutch nut so its easier next time when installing. EXCELLENT video though.
...you said in video "the A/C tesioner was already replaced, so we will not be replacing it" ??????? REALLY? The one pulley tensioner I needed to see being replaced! Your Video is INCOMPLETE.
@tomaskantor1 Well ......... This particular car has 60k miles, has never driven in salt (winter roads) and we do clean under the hood regularly. While some would not agree, we do not have an issue with using the "quarter car wash" wand under the hood, along with cans of engine cleaner. Just be wise about what you are spraying.
@aLex0kain - Your M52 2.5 liter engine uses two belts ... one for the A/C and one for the water pump, alternator and power steering. Both belts are of the serpentine type. Just go to our web site - bavauto dot com - and enter your BMW model, then search either BELT or SERPENTINE. We'll show you the correct belts for your model.
You may have a vacuum leak in the intake system. This could be any of the intake boots, bellows, hoses, etc., or the crankcase ventilation oil separator and check valve. The leakage could also be in the fuel tank vent system. Obviously, without being there to diagnose it, there are certainly other possibilities. Have you gotten under the hood to try to localize the sound, when it happens? This should really be the next step. Feel free to call us at 800-535-2002, for further assistance.
can you help with e36 m44 motor belt tensioner. this looks as ugly as it gets and there is no info anywere for this model.it looks like you need to take the whole poer steering assembly off just to get to it
Can a mechanical tensioner fail and how would one know when it does? Can the pulley be replaced on a mechanical tensioner? I have a 95 325i. Thanks for the videos!
The pulleys on the mechanical tensioners are not available separately. Therefore, the tensioner assembly must be replaced if a pulley faulty. Besides the obvious pulley bearing failure,
My only gripe with this video is that I just noticed they removed the radiator hoses but they don't mention any of it on the video. Is it gonna make a huge mess and how do I prevent it? I understand you have to edit the video but that is critical not to mention someone as newbie as myself could really get into some deep trouble if I screw something up. Just some constructive criticism, no disrespect.
I changed my alternator on my BMW 545i 2005 and now I am getting active steering inactive on my dashboard and it hard to turn. what can I do need help. thanks
