I have owned a Canadian spec 1992 K100RS for the past decade. The bodywork is similar to the USA one in your video, but my bike has some of the USA bike's items, and some of the German bike's. Thanks for the video Chris, very interesting.
Correct. But, Americans like doo-dads yet most cars, for many years, had nothing but idiot lights. I prefer to have too much information as opposed to relying upon some engineers and penny-pinching corporate accountants to determine what info that I should have available. With that said, when the Motronic failed on this bike the fan would not come on, the overheat-warning idiot light would not illuminate and the customers inner thigh was scorched from boiling coolant. No damage to the engine.
The fuel and temp gauges were available in Europe as an option. They tried to keep the price down as the Japanese bikes at that time were a lot cheaper.
Hello Chris, I am trying to find the right way to install heated grips to my recently bought 1991 BMW K100RS. I have seen online, people installing a relay from the rear light and a fused box bla bla bla... or directly from the battery... Is it possible to install this to a factory built circuit in the bike? Thanks very much! Note: In all the manuals I have, there is close to zero info about this. It only appears in the wiring diagram as "connection for heated handlebar grips(optional extra)".
As far as I know, the SHOWA rear shock, that shift lever (round rubber grommet) and the plastic ingnition coils cover, came out with the 1100 models (in Europe); the fuel and temperature gauges were optional equipment on Europe models as well as the warning switch, ABS and heated grips; the choke light switch, was not installed on K models made from 1990 on, but the bulb on the instrument panel came from factory. I have a 1989 K100RS-16V.
That was a good video I’ve been riding Bmw’s for many years first time anybody’s explain the difference between German and American models I do appreciate it
Don't forget, these do have a low-fuel warning light illuminating when you have 1.2 gallons remaining. Pretty tough to run out of fuel with that glaring red light illuminating your face shield at night.
Its funny to me how you can have one thing on one and something missing from the other. but gas / temp missing.. Do you use a stick to check for fuel? How hot is it getting? wait I know its not smoking yet so we are good to go... Just funny.. .ty for the info..
I don't agree with all that you say about the diference between the models. I have been riding BMWs since I bought my first new one, a R75/7 in 1977. My present machine is an EU 1991 K100RS 16v. Many things that you mention are US only are also standard on my bike, including guages, gear lever, and much more.
Hey Chris.. I bought a 95 k1100lt a year and 5 months ago with 49,050 miles and now has almost 62,000.. Runs great no complaints.. But was wondering about the spline lube... Does this bike need that done as well or is it just the older ones? Thanks for your videos, they have been interesting to watch..
Hi Chris, I have the 1992 K100RS, my hight temp light keeps turning on and off even if the temp gauge is just below the 3/4 mark. Is this something to worry about? Where and what should I look for to solve this problem? Thank you! I love all your videos by the way! Keep up the good work sir.
Drake, It is quite probable that your Motronic computer is the problem. Replace it with a used one and see if the temp light returns to normal function. Good luck, Chris
Not at all I really do get it.. Have a XV750 back in the day that had 2 gals fuel (40 mile range as I recall) I always had to stop every 75 miles or run out. Did that a few time and its always when your late for work.. The 750 was a aircooled system so no cooling system on this bike. I had to put a little fuel stick in now and then to recheck my fuel until I knew it was good..
Great video mate! I've seen temp and fuel gauges on K100RS-4V, so I guess they were optional. Also, I have never seen one of those without a hazard light knob, but that might be due to the average BMW rider always opting for them.
Seems counter-productive to have so many differences between Euro and US specs. I can understand some changes due to laws and such, but it must be more expensive to make the two different bikes rather than one?
Hi, my mate has a 85 K100rs 8v for sale with only 36k Kms deceased estate. Do you say no and look for 16v ? I love these bikes but don’t want to buy a duff model..
Hello Gary, there are many differences between the 8 valve & 16 valve bikes and the 85 can be a bit flaky, at least here in the US where that was the first model year.
Over here in the EU the first K100RS-16v eurospec still had the old fairing but did already have the paralever rear end and the 4 piston front brakes. The later K1100RS-16V got the newer style fairing.
Hey Chris, I was hoping you could give me a little advice, I'm looking at buying an early K bike an want to know which one/s are the best (mechanical reliability, power/acceleration, handling ect). You have great experience and knowledge and I would appreciate your input. Feel free to direct me to relevant info. I'm thinking an 85 k100rs? I plan on doing it up like the Euro "flying bricks"/cafe racers (To hot here in Australia for a fully faired bike) . Cheers.
I have a chance to get a "barn find" K100RS. It's been sitting under a tarp and hasn't been started in 10 years. It has 19, 000 miles on it. Other than a little dirt/dust it appears to be in good condition and has no rust or other signs of deterioration on it and I did't see any signs of fluid on the ground. Here is my question: what are the tell-tale signs that I should be looking for to see if this bike is going to take a lot of work and money to get it running? Or should I just pass on it?
@@ChrisR.Harris This bike is a 1991 K100rs. What do you think would be a fair price to offer for this bike. Remember it hasn't been started in 10 years. I can send you pictures if you want. Thanks for your reply.
@@ChrisR.Harris I was under the impression that it would be around $3500.00 minimum to get it back in shape - which is way more than what I can afford. Is your price of $1500 based on parts only? Or is this a price that you would charge to get it running again? If this is your price then maybe I could get it to you and have you do the work...?
@@bebobman Parts, just parts. The labor is a mystery until an evaluation has been completed. Even then it can be a gamble. Machines stop running for a reason, often forgotten by the one who parked it. Sometimes some basic work brings life back; sometimes a lot of effort is needed. The example you speak of has very low mileage, assuming the odometer is correct / original ('91/ '92 16v K valve clusters were more reliable than the earlier examples from MotoMeter) so with some luck you'll replace fuel filter and clean the fuel tank, replace fuel hoses and brake hoses (the brake master cylinders must surely weeping by now), tires, all fluids including a cooling system flush and replacement of the thermostat and cap, air and oil filters, starter relay and battery to be riding. The possibility exists that you'll likely also replace the fuel pump, both brake master cylinders, fork seals and steering head bearings. If there is blistering / bubbled paint at the lower left side of the fuel tank you'll need one of those too. I'll have extensive how - to video material on this model so you'll have some reference, at the least. This model is worthy of a reasonable investment. Offer less money. Who's buying broken BMW's these days except for salvage? ;)
Chris Harris And I really don’t like the stock wheel I would like to get a custom wheel which will still match the fittings of the stock final drive Can you suggest something for me
