Boat Dolly out of PVC Pipe 

You welcome! I'd add that the "T" handle could be reinforced with the thicker 40 PVC. I'll post a short video soon. I dropped the pole and the end of the "T" broke. It's an easy fix as I can just slide the thicker PVC over the broken piece. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to write. I apricate knowing that my "retirement activity" is doing some good. I have fun making them and getting positive feed back is a fun thing!

You’re welcome. It could have used some tweaking, but all in all it worked for me. Have fun and keep feeding your inner child 😂👍👍

Sounds AMAZING. I always appreciate hearing from someone who takes the initiative to build and make it there own 😁. Sounds like great improvements!

Great idea! Everyone appreciates innovation and improvement. Thanks for watching and contributing! 👍👍

I’m intrigued by this idea of using 3/4” conduit. Any details on your design? Are you using a design similar to this PVC dolly, and if so, what are you using for the tees?

You’re welcome. It’s a fun way to keep things going in my retirement years. Nice comments like yours are rewarding too. 👍👍

Great to hear from the other side of the pond! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 👍👍

Glad to hear it's working for you! Thanks for commenting.

Glad to hear that my video inspired you! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!👍👍

A thought regarding using conduit: I used conduit for supporting the motor to the raft and the type I used bent very easily. I think they make a ridged type, if so, get that because what I used would bend. Ps...I’m just thinking out loud 🤔 👍

@@BoilerDan1 Ok thanks!!!

Some additional thoughts from viewers: Launching isn’t a problem, but alone trying to get it positioned to get out of the water is tricky. It tends to float. Three solutions suggested: 1. Pull raft out of water, then lift and slide dolly underneath. 2. Drill holes to allow air to escape from pvc and fill with water. I’ve tried that and had minimal effect. 3. Prior to sealing the pvc, fill some areas with sand! I think that might just work! Thanks for watching 👍

It’s fun to build and I’m glad to hear that you made improvements! I ended doubling the pull handle and thought about something vertical to help guide the raft back on when coming back in. Out isn’t a problem but in by myself is more difficult.... appreciate your watching and then building one for yourself! Made my day brighter 👍👍

😂👍 Thanks!

😂 That’s okay, I stole it from someone else! Just try to make some improvements 😎, and we’ll just keep passing it along! Thanks for watching 👍👍

You’re welcome, thanks for watching 👍👍

Thanks, I might suggest lowering the posts that support the raft. Recently someone pointed out to me that I wouldn’t have to get it as far out into the water to launch it! Just a little above the wheels should work better!👍👍

Once I get the raft loaded, it is to heavy for me to pull into the water.... Plus I don't want to risk a puncture in the raft.... It's not the best quality raft. I'm able to push it out well into the water too. Although I admit, it's taken some practice... A viewer suggested venting the tubes so it doesn't float on me... That was a good idea that I will do this spring. Actually the handle removed and inside itself fits inside my Subaru Forester so it's portable to that extent.

You’re welcome. One improvement, I should have doubled the pull handle by putting the larger on top of the ones I used. I had one crack when I dropped its edge on cement. Putting the heavier one will improve everything. I mentioned that in a subsequent video, but just in case you missed it, ... we’ll, now you know 😁. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍

You’re welcome. Obviously it can’t handle a regular boat, but for a raft it was a fun project. It could use a little tweaking…. It works best in water that doesn’t have a current. Overall well worth my time and effort 👍👍

I’m happy to hear from you! It will help a lot! If your boat is a little heavier, you can load it after you reach the water! Thanks for watching and taking the time to let me know your appreciation 😁👍👍

Take the idea and make your own improvements 😁. Thanks for watching 👍

Ha, Thanks. I’m sure it could be improved upon, but it was actually fun putting it together! I appreciate your taking the time to comment 😁👍👍

Drill a couple holes in the top two rails to let air escape. Otherwise it floats a little making landing it a little tricky. I'll post an update sometime in the future too.

Going to Ace Hardware list in hand , your design in mind, thanks for sharing your ideas, andyour efforts. Looked at. many others and for cost, lightness, durability and simplicity your way gets us down the highway to the myriad canals & lakes that surround us here in OceanShores, Washington sometimes. called Ocean Snores, Warshington, and the Palm Beach of the North. Just bought something called a "Pond Prowler" and needed a beefier looking set of wheels, as didn't want the hassle of buying, licensing, building or ownership ofa trailer to take it mere blocks from the house. I will try report later on how it worked out to put an exclamation point or to let you know if it is deficient in anyway, as a test pilot does, but notgiving up my life as they do. Wouldn't be prudent.....lol as George Bush used to say. Thanx, my next project is a shed and am look ing at brick, sti cks or straw but with high winds, mass quantities of liquid sunshine and wild animals,that should be well documented

Ha, enjoyed reading your thoughts. I think you’ll be happy with it. Might get solid tires to reduce flotation. It works well to launch, but easier to pull out of the water and then get the dolly under it. Unless you have two people and one gets into the water to secure it on the dolly!

Can you send me the link?

@@virtualreality512 His post was a year ago. I’m guessing that it was the link to the two videos I made on the PVC Boat Dolly? Here’s that link: ru-vid.com/group/PLjMZtm2hvqrMztz5HWhQr3DmtvIs6TbkK

Nice tweaking of my humble efforts 👍. If I remember correctly, I was able to tighten the bolts enough to have them slip just inside the pvc pipe and support the rod. But I agree on your input completely 😁 Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.

Thanks 👍

I can get a little sag with the motor in place before launching. But when empty your correct. Another advantage of your point is I could be closer to the shoreline when launching and retrieving! Thanks for the suggestion and for watching 👍👍

I should have double layered the handle. One chipped when I dropped it on cement. I was able to just slip over the larger size to make it stronger. Good luck with yours. Thanks for watching👍

@@BoilerDan1 not surewhat you mean double layered....a smaller PVC inside the handle extension? That makessense to make it stronger. Thanks

Yes, the smaller one fits snugly inside the outer one. It makes it stronger to roll to the water. Then you slide it out to push the raft out into the water to launch it.

Thanks, I did do some additional improvements as time went along. Possibly the best would be to put the larger pvc over the smaller ones on the handle itself. I dropped it on a hard surface and broke a piece off. Easy fix by sliding the larger piece over it after coating it with the pfc glue. Although I did put everything in the raft before launching, leaving some of the weight out is also a better choice as well as emptying out what you can at the end of your trip before trying to bring it back to land. Launching is a breeze... But getting it back on without getting in the water is difficult. I ended up pulling the raft onto the ramp and then lifting to slide the dolly under it. But all in all, I'm very happy with it. Thanks again for watching, and taking the time to make a positive comment! 👍👍

If I'd only looked at you post when posted. After long consideration.... I'm getting older you know.... and the only close place I could use it has been too high of water the last season and this spring too. I had an offer for it all, and couldn't pass it up.... Yes, I sold it today.... I do recall that I just used the left over pieces... Sorry I never got that measurement. I may return with a new build in the future. I might get a raft with the light weight floor with it... and test out the 4 cycle motor..... The future awaits! Hope you can get a visual of mine and wing it! That's half the fun!

BoilerDan1 No problem...I just managed to get my hands on the pvc pipe today. I think I can eyeball it from the video . The part where you turn the rests parallel to the axle to demonstrate how to store it should help a lot. Looking forward to putting this together tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.

I agree. I’m sure why I chose that length? I think I just used what was left over! They are not glued so they can be cut down by a few inches 😁. Thanks for watching and taking the time to give a helpful hint 👍👍

@@BoilerDan1 All you need is for yourr boat to clear the wheels

Brian Jones 👍You make so much sense! Where were you in my drafting stage? 😂😂 Thanks again 👍👍

Brian Jones I just realized why I made it higher! So I could put the motor on the back and it wouldn’t drag. Now I can sleep at night 😂😂😂

@@BoilerDan1 That would explain it! Nice one Dan. Enjoy it mate.

Thank you 😊

In hindsight, I should have showed the process. But PVC can be very easy to work with. I will add to this or maybe show some of the steps on video. Give me a few days to work on it. I might re-edit the original video and add a little part on how to glue it all together. Tomorrow (Saturday May 5th) I plan on using everything on my first "On the river" test of the dolly, raft, and motor. Plus some other add in's. Stay tuned! Thanks

Great idea. I’m away on vacation, but I’ll add it asap. In the meantime: 1-1”x10’ pvc pipe (schedule 40) 33” for axle, remainder for handle and push extension 2-1 1/4” x 10’ pvc pipe schedule 40 5-1 1/4” pvc 90*elbows schedule 40 4 - 1 1/4” end caps schedule 40 1 - 1” T 90* Schedule 40 1 - 5/8” x 36” threaded rod (for axle) 2 - 5/8” lock nuts 2 - 10” wheels (Harbor Freight) PVC CEMENT (cleaner and cement) Thanks for watching and taking the time to suggest a helpful addition 👍

I was able to copy and paste what I sent you to the video description! Thanks again for the improvement suggestion. 👍👍

One update: Need to drill a couple of hope to let air out so it won't float. Then another one at bottom to let water out! I'll make a follow-up video soon.

Hi Mark, on my raft, the motor was a 2 stroke gas, so no battery. If you were referring to something different, let me know?

@@BoilerDan1 Ok thanks.

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!

After long consideration.... I'm getting older you know.... and the only close place I could use it, the water has been too high both last season and this spring as well. I had an offer for it all, and couldn't pass it up.... Yes, I sold it... I do recall that I just used the left over pieces... Sorry I never got that measurement. I will add that a little shorter posts that held the raft would be an improvement on my build. All in all it did work very well for launching. But a little difficult for one person to bring it in. I ended up pulling it a little out of the water and then putting the raft on it. With two people though, you can both launch and retrieve the raft. Note: I may return with a new build in the future. I might get a raft with the light weight floor with it... and test out the 4 cycle motor..... The future awaits! Hope you can get a visual of mine and wing it! That's half the fun!

At Menards. In the area where the have nuts and bolts. The threaded rods where in the same area. You can go to Menards website and search “Threaded Rods” to view them. Thanks for watching 👍👍

@@BoilerDan1 Thank you!

Sorry, I don't have the exact measurement on those. You can get an idea by watching the video. I did make one end shorter then the other so I could swing them inward for storage. I no longer have the unit. At 72, I decided to be land locked and sold the entire system. Thanks for watching, sorry I couldn't give you the specifics you requested.

Thanks. I do use it every time I take the raft out and it works great!

Thanks! Hey, drill a couple of holes in the top supports to let air out. It will reduce it tending to float when you try to use the dolly to get under the raft when landing. Regarding the motor mount... It does tend to push under. If you watch some of my other videos on the project you can see it. I put some extension poles replacing the small ones that came with the mount but even with those it still has been pulling under a bit. (Stiffer poles might help). I also put a strap from my seat post pulling up on the motor..... It's been suggested that if I could mount the poles down to the floor I could keep it from pulling down? This is my second summer having it. Have not gotten out yet as river level too high. There is another Itex model Mariner 4 that might work better. It's $249 at Amazon and I might upgrade to it. But for now I'll keep working on the one I have.

Here is a link to a recent posting. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5xagMiNwPn0.html At just past the halfway part of the video you can see the changes I made regarding the motor mounting and it running on the water. I'm going to do another update soon as I am moving my seat a little further forward, and drilling the air exit holes in the dolly....

3/4 plywood will give stability, You can also put another square where the chair base sits for even more stability. The chairs I purchased were about as cheap as you can get. Didn't have problems with the base, but the backs were kind of bendy and that feels a little strange until you get use to it. I'd recommend a better seat than mine. But as far as comfort, it is a must in my book! Thanks for watching.

Sam Chan : Thanks for the positive feedback! 👍

Sorry to see no answers yet, but I think it would work great for a beach cart. Maybe make it smaller with the inflatable tires that you mentioned. Hope someone can respond with the size! Thanks for watching 👍👍

The raft itself is about 50 lbs. Add in 25 for the wood floor, another 20 for the motor and 5 or 10 for the seats... So I'm probably around 100 lbs. You could add a third support T about 2 feet forward of the wheels? Have in screw in like the launching pole.... Another thought would be to replace the inside PVC smaller section that the threaded rod runs through with a rigid metal pipe for added strength? Just thoughts! I can't say for sure it will hold your boat, but if you add the third support, and can balance the weight on the three points instead of two... It might just work. At least trying it wouldn't cost that much! Let me know if you try it! :0) OH, ONE OTHER THING... Drill a couple of holes in the top end caps to let air out. It will make it less buoyant when you try to get it under the boat when landing. Maybe solid tires instead of air filled would help that too?

Hey snappa2, after my initial reply, I looked up your Zodiac 310. I'm guessing it would work just fine. Maybe leave out your gear and leave the motor off until your either in the water, or just at the waters edge! I would prefer your Zodiac over my cheapie raft.... If I get real serious, I'll convert to the Zodiac 310!

BoilerDan1 thank you.

Sorry, In hindsight I could have done two versions, one of each. Thanks for watching and hope it gave you a little inspiration to try it!

@@BoilerDan1 Yes it most certainly has thank you.

@@BoilerDan1 Could I ask what size wheels please and what to type in my Internet browser search bar for them or similar? Are they on ebay? Thanks.

You can get similar wheels from Harbor Freight: www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-x-3-1-2-half-inch-pneumatic-tire-67465.html You can get the threaded rod from any major hardware store . Menards: Hillman 5/8" -11 x 36" Zinc Threaded Rod Model Number: 11033 Menards ® SKU: 2278908 www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/anchors/threaded-rods-nipples/hillman-zinc-threaded-rod/11033/p-1444432420568.htm

@@BoilerDan1 Ok thanks, could I also ask what you did with the dolly when you went out onto the water on your own? Did you fold it up and take it out on the boat with you or did leave it on the shore/beach/river bank etc? My concern leaving it is getting it stolen or taking away by some idiot.

I think it was so that I could put the motor on the boat/raft before launching. It gave just enough space so that the propeller wouldn’t hit the ground. It worked pretty well, however if it were for a canoe or Kayak you could make it a lot lower! Thanks for watching 👍

@@BoilerDan1 That makes sense, but can't you trim the motor up so the prop is behind the boat instead of under it? I'm not sure if that kind of motor has the trim adjustment like the electric trolling motors do, so I'm asking.

Yes it does but it’s not locked in very solid. Plus at the time, it was my first attempt, not even sure what I was thinking!😂

Not if it’s secured to the dolly.... but you have two choices. 1. I take a strap and secure it to the pull ring of my Subaru Forester then wrapped it around the handle and gently pull the raft and dolly to the top of the ramp. 2. I’ve taken everything out of the ramp making it lighter, and then pulled it out by hand. If you have a second person it is easy. If you’re alone. It can be tricky getting it on the dolly out in the water, unless you wade out and secure it on. I’ve pulled the raft out and then slid the dolly under it off to the side of the ramp. A lot depends on what shape you are in! I had to resort to pulling it the top with the car😂😂

If it has the motor mount on the back it should. The motor isn’t real heavy however I had trouble with it pushing under the raft. That reduces the thrust and speed….. maybe a better system supporting the motor to the raft? Thanks for watching 👍👍

I should have mentioned that I made several videos on my journey with the motor and raft. You should take some time and check them out as I cover a lot of issues along the way 😮👍👍

Yes you are right. At my age, carting around the plywood floor has become an issue if I take it out alone. I’ve been considering buying something that has a stable floor built in... That being said, the entire project was fun and I have enjoyed the journey even with setbacks. Thanks for your advice, wish I had consulted with you at the start 😉👍. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍👍😎

THANKS

Thanks. I had fun putting it all together…. It works better if you have two people, or for a pond or lake. When there’s a current, it is hard to get it lined up for coming out of the water. Launching is fine. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍👍

Happy to provide you with the details: All I ask is that you watch at least 1/2 of each of the following two new posts I have and consider sharing them with a friend or two! Just click the "share" button on the lower right of the RU-vid channel if you know of someone interested! The first is a great safety item I just installed on my Subaru Forester. They have the product to fit other vehicles. eru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ig4MQ3Specs.html Second is for anyone that has very limited space and would like to able to grow tomatoes! I discovered a way to grow them horizontally and they are doing even better than anticipated. If you know anyone living in an apartment, condo, or just want to try container garden next spring, check this idea out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DnczP0BsRzA.html Okay, here is your list of items needed: 1 PVC pipe - 1 inch X 10 Ft Schedule 40 (approx. 33" for axle, remainder for handle and inside sleeve of the Push/Pull Rod) 2-PVC Pipe - 1-1/4 inch X 10 Ft Schedule 40 5-PVC 1-1/4 inch 90 degree "T" schedule 40 4-PVC 1-1/4 inch end caps schedule 40 1-PVC 1 inch 90 degree "T" schedule 40 (This is to form the T handle) 1-0.625(or 5/8 inch X 36 inch standard (SAE) Threaded Rod. 2- 5/8 inch zinc plated standard SAE nylon insert lock nuts. 1 PVC cement kit 2- 10 inch wheels (I used air filled from Harbor Freight on sale for as I recall under $4 each.) You might consider solid tires to reduce floating. Also drill a couple of holes in the top supports to let air out to reduce it wanting to float for landing. Launching is not a problem. I don't think I left anything out... But you can always contact me and I will add anything I missed. Here is the link covering the detail of the dolly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FJ23KSR2zxk.html Thanks for watching.

Inflatable boat dolly construction and parts needed. 1-1”x10’ pvc pipe (schedule 40) 33” for axle, remainder for handle and push extension 2-1 1/4” x 10’ pvc pipe schedule 40 5-1 1/4” pvc 90*elbows schedule 40 4 - 1 1/4” end caps schedule 40 1 - 1” T 90* Schedule 40 1 - 5/8” x 36” threaded rod (for axle) 2 - 5/8” lock nuts 2 - 10” wheels (Harbor Freight) PVC CEMENT (cleaner and cement)

Thanks! I’m fine with giving others a low cost alternative 😉. Appreciate your feedback and taking the time to comment and watch the video.👍

thanks for this Now I can do the same thing on my mariner 4

You are welcome. Nice to hear that my work is appreciated. 👍

Thanks! One update: I need to drill two small holes in the top to let air out. Then it won't float so much.

Coupler pin? I thought hitch pin.... Here’s a link from Amazon as an example. www.amazon.com/dp/B07WPRKFNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_z5mBFbDY5SZVJ

Ha! Thanks for the review... One new change.... I need to drill a couple of holes at the top segments to let air out so it doesn't keep floating. That suggestion was made by a viewer! Probably your MIT engineer!

Thanks. It works well for launching but I struggle getting it back in by myself. I usually pull it on shore then take off the motor and lift it back on the dolly. But going from the car down to the water it has been great! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!😃

You will need to enlighten me as to what launch wheels are? But I've used this PVC dolly several times now, and after the initial few times, I have it down to a smooth launch and recovery. So I'm happy with what I've got :0)

It doesnt have a transom. Launch wheels won't work.

Sorry, you'll have to build one yourself. :0)

The motor is around 24 Lbs. I estimate that the raft is around 40 Lbs. Obviously the PVC dolly wouldn’t work for anything heavy. Thanks for watching 👍

I estimated wrongly on the weight of the raft. It’s approximately 56 Lbs with the motor being around 24 Lbs.

​@@BoilerDan1 Thank you, Sir, for your feedback... I really liked your idea and want to recreate it to my Dinghy inflatable boat since I don't prefer to dig holes in my boat for lunching wheels... my boat is about 30 Kilos + 30 kilos for a 5 HP motor total almost 60 kilos or ( over 130 pounds) any insightful ideas or advice on this?

Ibrahim Da'as ; Unfortunately I would be concerned about the weight. I don’t think that the pvc pipe would hold up

Sorry I accidentally hit send.... not sure if you could modify and make a dual platform with dual wheels? I don’t think the post type system like mine would work at all. I think it would break off..🙁

I didn't really. It has a little space but the bolts kind of center it. There is not that much weight and I push it into the water by hand. Although I do attach it to the back of my Subaru and slowly pull it back up the boat ramps. There is a nut on both the outside and inside of the wheel and large washers between. So the inside one kind of fits into the smaller PVC pipe and holds it in place. Hope that makes sense? :0) It's worked very well, but I do extend it all the way out to launch, as well as pulling it back in. It takes a little practice, but I've got it down pretty well now.

BoilerDan1 thankyou

I purchased it just after Christmas this last year. I think the price drops in winter because it is out of season. I paid just under $200 which was a very good price. It was through eBay and was new. Proper break-in is very important. I have several video's dealing with the motor. Hope it helps.

The 5/8" threaded rod can be obtained at Menards or Lowes. They come in a standard length of 36 inches, then cut your PVC pipe to fit that configuration. The extension handle is best to use 10 Ft sections of both the 1 ¼ inch and 1 inch PVC pipes with the 1 inch going inside the 1 ¼ inch pipe. I shortened mine just a little so it would fit inside a Subaru Forester. So it is actually a little less than 10 feet long. To launch, I do extend it out to 17 feet and that does work very well! Over time, the threaded pipe will rust, but I figure I can just replace it pretty cheap. Thanks for watching. I have some updates coming in the future, so stay tuned! My adventure continues....