One thing that really helps get a baby butt smooth finish is once you put the fairing compound on, shoot a mist of black paint over all the areas. it doesn't take much, it's called a "guide coat". Once you start sanding, it quickly shows you the high & low spots of the surface. High spots will have no black and low spots will still show black, so you know what spots to focus on or maybe even have to add a little more fairing compound to build up low spots.
Mr Stoeckhert is correct about the vertical strokes for the vertical. Your making horizontal stroke for vertical tape. Its just a lot of extra work and very inefficient. Your great so keep up the hard work, its a worthwhile project.
Here are a few episodes of others I remembered. Magic Carpet, "How to restore surface finish on damaged fiberglass". Between episodes 22 and 23. Parlay Revival episode 41. Maybe not exactly what you're doing but you will see the tools they are using. Aladino on Magic Carpet is a trained boat builder. You guys are killing it, can't wait to see it in the water!
Jessica, I use drywall knives of various sizes. Also after you apply the compound out from the corner perpendicular as you were, go back and run from the corner out with a longer knife in the opposite direction and it will taper all the ridges and save a lot of sanding. It will take a bit of practice but you will find you can flex the metal knives and more easily make the tapers. Keep up the good work.
We were told to use the plastic spreaders from another builder, but I don't see why the drywall tools wouldn't be better for this process. I think we'll pick some up today to give it a try.
@@MJSailing also you can take a grinder and gently radius the corners of the knives to help keep from digging in. They can be Cleaned with acetone or even sanded off with your random orbit sander.
I would recommend that you check out how Sailing Dauntless did their fairing, maybe you can pick up some tricks. They also have an amazing dustless setup for all of their sanders
Two tips we learned from using lots of the Total Boat fairing compound. Mix with a metal blade. We use a 4" drywall knife Used sparingly a heat gun lightly warming the compound while mixing really helps Again using the heat gun to warm the compound while spreading really helps with it's work-ability.
For the Fairy Queen: (like in drywall taping) Instead of using the trowel setting it in the corner and moving it outward away from the corner you should slide the trowel along the fiberglass tape seam using the corner as a guide. Smoother and better coverage.. less sanding…
I totally agree J. Malte Stoeckhert. What she is doing is exactly the process that is done on drywall in homes. Having a steel trowel that is about 8-10 inches wide works well.. If doing a vertical corner on the right side, have the right side of the trowel touch the right edge, and the left side of the trowel be pushed along the back wall causing a taper left to right... then drag the trowel top to bottom. If done correctly, there is almost no sanding needed, because you have already created a perfect taper across the tape edge using minimal product.
I would be using plastering tools, like a steel plasterers trowel and a hawk to put the compound on. You should be able to get a good finish with almost no sanding.
Yip run the trowl along the wall not out from the wall. Smooth in is easier to sand out. Looking good thou, fairing takes time to learn. Some people make it look easy.
@@iankynaston-richards883 Yep. I worked for a drywall contractor for 7 years. We hired out the hanging and we did the finishing. Also did stucco and veneer plaster work. The two owners were old school plaster Masters. Drywall finishing we used hawk and trowel. Much easier than so called "drywall" knives.
Corner tips: 1) cut the plastic spreader to fit in the corner. This will let you pull a straight line of fair compound. 2) use a sander designed for tight spaces. Dybabrade make a professional blacksplash sander with a versatile set of attachments. There are also hand blocks. Speare makes a good one with a 90 degree angle.
🤤 That Dynabrade would be a dream system! Have you used one before? There is a knock-off on Amazon for a little over a hundred that I've been eyeing, but wasn't sure how effective it is in real use. I'm always cautious when the bigger common brands don't offer anything like it.
@@MJSailing I have not used it. My hubby had a fiberglass repair business for many years. He had his eye on one and was waiting to get a job with enough corner work to pay for it. You might try talking with some professional tile business in your area to see one being used. Sorry I can't say more. Update: My husband first saw it at a trade show and was able to test it for a couple minutes. He was very excited about it but can't vouch for long time use. Maybe you can try it out in a trade show.
So much work ahead. I’ve learned to apply compounds slowly and very carefully to reduce sanding to a minimum. With all the practice your going to get, you’ll be a pro in no time. Great work you two.
When it's hardening on you before you've the opportunity to smooth it-- that says you've mixed too much for your skill level. Mix 1/4 of what you've been doing to begin your skill development. Bondo applicators are good for cars with curved surfaces. Think of your shelf areas like drywall. Use a stainless drywall knife. 10" or 8" to start. You'll need a mud pan with thinner to rest it and clean it. A single-edged razor blade can help.
Jess, what J. Malte and Alan Kristensen said , you may want to check out drywall methods the whole goal is to fair the area with the least amount ,I see areas where you have ridges , along ceiling. Hope these suggestions help.
Hey guys😉 love your work. Is there a chance you could do a video of all the materials and list of products you used along the way??? You both have done a tone of work so far. Can’t wait to see your progress every chance I get👍 Thanks 😊
boy i dont envy you about all that fairing to come. im just finishing painting my hull, after peeling all the gelcoat (3 layers total) to bare fibreglass (with a gelcoat peeler, a formidable tool!). i didnt pick and chose the spots, i basically applied fairing all over the hull, then knock it down with the orbital sander and i think that saved me a lot of time. all i had to do what touch ups here and there (mainly because of air bubbles than unevenness). cant imagine doing that for a 42 feet long boat interior! i bought that same sanding block kit, and had the same reaction! it is bizarre ahahhaah
Watch a video of how dry wallers put mud on new drywall. Suggest you use a metal trowel if it's compatible. If your not pre heating your daily work area consider getting a 1500 watt timer for your oil filled heater timed to go on several hours before you get to shop at a mid range temp so your work area is ready to go. It takes them quite long to put out enough heat to make a difference.
What would be the end result you hope for ? The surface would look nice for now, but after spray paint it will probably will not look straight anymore. For the areas that really need to be straight try using a guide coat and bigger sanding board to reveal these dips (need additional fairing), bumps can just be sanded. Good luck with your project, I know what your are going through😅, very satisfying at the end👍👍
Hello from Alberta Canada. Jessica you don't give yourself enough credit for your contribution to the build and skill set. The fairing work to date is excellent and will improve rapidly as you do more you know that. You are building a boat a very complected boat so kudos for your part (Matt too of course). Thanks for including us in the build its great to watch.
Love the "This is what we don't want"! Id rather watch this humble showing of learning experiences than a professional who never makes beginner mistakes (or have too much ego to show them). Thanks for the videos!
For mixing and spreading the faring compound I find it much easier to get a good mix and smooth surface to use drywall tools. I find 6" and 12" knives to be perfect. 6" is great for mixing and applying the compound and the 12" works great for spreading. the 12" blade has a decent amount of flex to get it on curved surfaces. I use both hands on the blade to bow it to match the curve rather than using the handle. You might watch this video from Boatworks Today on mixing and applying fairing compound. Andy does a great job at it. (19) STARTING THE FAIRING PROCESS ON THIS OLD SAILBOAT! - RU-vid
You both have such a great attitude about all the tasks to be able to get that thing in the water. I'm sure there are some less glamorous and frustrating days. Strong work and keep going!
For polyester fairing products, I'd recommend one that is catalyzed with BPO. LBI Fiberglass has its own version of Total Boat's fairing compound for 1/2 the price that uses BPO. I know you get yours free but viewers might appreciate a more reasonable offer. PBO comes in blue or white, with the blue, you get a feel for exactly how much catalyst you've added and you know when it's properly mixed as the color will be homogeneous.
Like others have said, check out Sailing Dauntless. Also like others have said check out auto body repair videos and maybe an inline sander driven by an air compressor. Have always loved your videos. You do both the refit and adventure stuff so well.
Hi guys you are both doing a hell of a job, its a long process so don't worry if you feel its never getting done, you are getting there orbitals can be difficult to constantly keep totally flat Jessica the mouse 🐁 is probably simply more controllable for you, think time of is necessary for a large project be safe see you soon Dave.
So much work !! One trick I learned over the years is to trim off the high spots of the fairing compound before it fully cures with a flat razor blade scrapper and also a rasp file, sometimes called a cheese grater. Automotive body shops tools. Other than that spray some gel coat on it and be done with it.
When I fair any surface I work the material while it is wet. In other words do not leave the area until it is absolutely smooth. Do not rely on sanding later.
Hi guys, great work. I agree get a Hawk much easier on the hands and a lot quicker. For the corners go to a plaster supplier and get a corner trowel , you will get a great radius and smooth edges. Use steel trowels. Also for the corners try put the gunk in your plastic bags with the hole in the bag so you can get it in the corners quicker so more time to get smooth. One other idea is to use a larger steel trowel with a handle on the back, once you become good at using the Hawk and trowel you will be able to do a larger area and smoother. Can you thin the gunk down with acid tone 10% is the norm as it’s only cosmetic. Good luck you should have great guns in a years time
Seeing you sanding in a rather small room like that - I will suggest a vacuum cleaner on the tools for dust extraction. I know that there are dust extraction on the tools, but it works much better with an vacuum cleaner! (But good to see you guys are using masks, gloves and other protection!)
I think you need to use a bigger float to apply and smooth that filler. You can use a concrete float or big flexible 250mm screed that they use for plaster walls inside houses. These fillers set very hard so you want to get them as smooth as possible! Just sand off any high spots and apply second skim to help fill imperfections, it is difficult to get them perfect on the first pass. Also when sanding overhead set up a plank to kneel, squat, or sit on so it is exactly a comfortable height, it will make your arms less sore! I used to sand with a long board overhead all day under boat hulls. Murray, Boatbuilder.
With so much to do a couple of things you could experiment with. Spray filler (e.g. Evercoat 713 Gray Feather Fill) or even gel coat with wax would reduce your application time. I'd use a 3M PPS gun with HO pressure cup and 2.0 tip, that way if the filler sets up before you can clean the gun you just replace the $4 tip. Mirka's Abranet with ideally their Deros sander or Festool rotax or rotary Bosch will halve your sanding time, add a proper vacuum and you can go almost dustless too.
hey, you shuld use light along surface that you are working on. Turn off every other lights in space you working on and use only light along the sanded/faired surface it will determin low and high spots without feeling the surface with your hand. Static light and hand held light for cheking hard to reach spots. You will use less fairing compound and sand less.
Cut a radius on your fairing compound applicator. That way you will eliminate lines on each pass of the applicator. This will make sanding and faring a lot easier.
For fairing corners, get a corner trowel that way you can get the coves easier. Check with a local drywall professional they may have some tips for you.
So when I was bogging and fairing the inside of my catamaran, we used a plasterer hawk (with a handle underneath) to put all the bog on--it was much easier to hold than a piece of board and you could hold a whole lot more. We also use wide plastic scrapers to put it on and we could get a very fair surface first off. Of course after you've sanded it all off 3-4 times you suddenly realise what 'fair' really means...Phil
I do have a suggestion get rid of those tools for sanding! Get Festool sanders with dust extraction, they are amazing. You can almost sand with out a mask the dust capture is so good. I can tell you, I will never go back to anything else.
Sunday morning here with my first cup of coffee. I'm tired just watching but as always, admire your dedication and hard work towards what I know will be a boat you'll have immense pride in. I've done my hard work in life but still feel tired watching you both as you labor. As always, a great video with great music.
I have got two tips fore you. Hook up some dust collection to your sanders, it will make everything better. And use a straight edge to check the flatness of the bulkheads, it looks like they are going to be be a bit concave the way you are going now. Take a look at BoatworksToday at RU-vid, there are a lot of tips for what you are doing.
Please do keep in mind that the curing principle of MEKP - polyester wants a minimum of 15 degrees C. This was explained to me by Andos, producer of Andos/Norox mekp. As for fairing: less is more. Having to apply 2 or 3 coats of fairing compound but minimizing sanding is faster in the end. Prevent ridges, do nog worry about bubbles or streaks. Use a wide putty knife 15-20cm. Only after the first or even second time you start filling the small defects. Sand with course sandpaper, van even be done by hand. Sandpaper on a wooden board with handles. Grit 40 or 60. Your goal is to fair out, not achieve a smooth surface. Only after 2 passes you sand with grit 120, and apply primer. Then correct small blemishes. The uniform colour helps finding those small defects.
You're doing a good job Jessica and will be a pro in no time! Some things I learned in Auto Body Repair class that might help you: 1) When you mix hardener into filler use a plastic spreader, folding the material over on itself from every direction. NEVER stir it with a stick, that mixes air into the material that ends up being bubbles in the finished product. 2) If you can add color to the hardener that makes it much easier to see when your material is evenly mixed. Hardeners for auto body filler are always colored for this reason. 3) The smoother you can put the filler on the less sanding will be required. Spread the filler away from the corners like you've been but finish the application with the spreader going the long way so there are no ridges. 4) The wider and stiffer the spreader you use, and the closer it is to flat on the surface, the smoother the finish will be. 5) Where more filler is required multiple thin layers are much easier to lay on smooth and will result in less sanding. 6) If you need to free hand shape a curved area lay the filler on and as it tacks up use a cheese grater (Surform) to shape it. Cheese graters often work best without the handle as you can flex and twist the blade to fit the shape. There's a magic spot in curing where the filler is only a bit stiffer than cheese and it's really easy to work for that few minutes. 7) Small sanders result in a wavy surface, keep the sander moving in long strokes to minimize this. For large areas a reciprocating 'longboard' sander is the king of making very flat surfaces without waves.
For some situations a second trowel with chamfered down corners (or bent down for metal) avoids creating those sharp lines and reduces the sanding work. Drywall pros will laugh about that, but it gets the job done if you are not a pro. Better tools for drywall work were already mentioned, I second that.
Have you tried using a Drywall Taping Knife ?, 2", 4", 8" and run the side of the blade along the internal. Let it dry, then scrape off bead and do the same on the adjacent side. Let it dry, then put a 'Cove' in all internals to round them nicely. The Taping Knives will be easier on the hands, forearms and better control.
It crazy to think of how many amazing hours you both have worked to come this far❤️ What an amazing passion! Thanks for bringing your best through all of it. One day I hope I can build a cat or even a trimaran as wonderful as yours! Thanks you guys are the best.
Make sure you get a very good respirator and change the filters frequently otherwise your lungs will be stuffed keep on top of the dust and use vacuum cleaner with good filters system as both your health's will suffer later on Regards David
Great work - one tip is that you really should try to apply the fairing perpendicular to whatever you are trying to fair if your tool does not span the whole thing your are trying to fair. So go along the corners along the length of the tabbing so that your tool spans the indent you want to remove. The way you do it now you are just creating a lot of new ridges that is not fair either and will need a lot of sanding and you are allowing your fairing tool to go down into the indent and not fairing that either. If you go perpendicular you will be able to use your compound a lot more efficient. Good luck!
You've practically become a chemist keeping track of all the mixing ratios, temperatures, curing times for all the different compounds you use. It would be overwhelming to us common mortals! Yes, vacation! Well you've certainly earned it. Enjoy.
Your doing great so and it's only my 2cents but i like to use a wide bog aplicator (250mm wide or so) and pull it along the edge of tape joints. I always get the flats done first then a nice simple finger cove along corners. Also for the amount of fairing you have ahead its probably worth investing in a air powered long block, i can't think of their proper name, we called them the torcher boards 🤣🤣🤣
Watch a youtube video on plastering; they use a 2 or 3ft paddle to get the material on the wall - and then there is spraying as well. If you continue the way you are going you are not going to get through it and you are going to hate the look of the finished product. You need to be thinking of a way to turn this into a one or two-week job - and I think professional installers probably get it done in less time as well.
I also have little experience fairing, but there is another youtuber @Frankie Bushong on exterior boat paint repair that says put it on "tight" I assume that means less is better. Similar to drywall, mix it in small amounts and build the layers with little to no sanding between.
I did just hear too that it's much easier to do multiple thin layers rather than one thick layer and try and sand it to a smooth and level surface. Lots of places for me to put that into practice! 😀
I agree with the others amazing amount of work and the dedication it takes to build your owe boat, but you will know this boat inside and out and I bet it will be stronger, easier to work on and more functional than a factory built. Keep it up I look forward to you video every Sunday Papajack
Watch some drywall tutorials on how they fair out their joins, big areas need a bigger trowel so you don’t get all the little raised marks, or one you put it on pulling away from the wall like you do, you then do a light stroke along the wall over the top to smooth it out, put an angle on the trowel so you get the edge down without taking it out of the corner.🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🇦🇺
I used a round corner trowel to fair My boat , square corner trowels have a tendency to leave behind trowel marks . Plus I use gelcoat instead of paint , talk about labor intensive . Good luck guys looks good .
In the video I state that it is my first time doing this. I was showing the process of how I went about it, so that experts in the field could give me tips on how to improve. We all have to start somewhere. 😉
Watching you sand with the orbital, I’m not surprised you had better results with the mouse. Whatever sanding tool you use, you have to make sure it’s flat against the surface. With the orbital, you were using the edge, which will dig a low spot quickly. Also when you’re spreading the compound, the smoother you put it on, the less sanding you need. Lessons learned from years of painting cars. You’re doing good, but will be a pro by the time you’re done. Also, not sure of the reason for the clowns, but durablock makes great sanding blocks… used them for years. Aloha, and good luck.
I have really been noticing that it's worth the extra time to work with small batches and get it as smooth as possible before application. When it goes on well there's so much less sanding involved once it has cured. 😀
@@MJSailing you will keep noticing little things that will help along the way. Another thing I’ve learned… if you mix the fairing compound with a stir stick in a circular motion, you tend to mix air bubbles in with it, which results in pin holes in the finished surface. Mix with the spreader, scraping the mix board, then spread it out back on the board in a folding motion, repeat until uniform. You will get a more thorough mix with less air bubbles.
I would suggest pulling the cmpnd longitudinally, not transversely- less waste, more even distribution- less sanding. Also, a fairing knife with a handle ( just like a plasters knife) will save your finger joints- that boat is big and it's going to hurt.
One other suggestion when doing vertical walls start at the bottom and work the trowel up the wall much easier to keep the gunk on the trowel. Plastering troll 10 inch with the handle on the back
Sorry for being delayed watching your video. I must claim the stupid time change thing. This was another great video. I love how you both explain what and why do what you do. Thank you both again for all that you are doing and explains. Too many RU-vidrs seem to miss excellent explanations, which you guys do. You both do it very well and keep it entertaining as well.
Have you thought about hiring a plaster finisher? Obviously the viscosity of the plaster and fairing compound are different, but with a little practice I'm sure the finisher could really speed up and simplify the fairing.
We're trying not to bring in any outside help unless absolutely necessary because we do enjoy the process, and part of the reason we're doing the build is so we can learn a slew of new skills. 🙂
Use a larger (6"+) stainless drywall tapers knife, instead of the plastic scraper, would do wonders in minimizing the sanding. Lots of other great tips in the comments.
G'Day Mate When I made my plane (A Jabiru) I used light weight auto bog for fairing over resin and flock it is much better to use and had a way better finish and a lot better to sand. Cheers Rory PS AWESOME job and I look forward to your vids.Thank you for posting them.
Oh my gosh, so much more of it!! Lol. But the good thing is, there will be a bunch of new built out places to fair. Lots of cabinets getting shelves now!
Some have said to use a metal trowel, definitely....I prefer stainless in several sizes, like in drywall and check out Andy at BoatWorks Today and he uses the metal trowel to mix it as welll, if there are either blue or yellow streaks anywhere it’s not mixed well enough. Use a smaller knife,trowel for first corner coats and get progressively bigger, the finish will be better and use les duct and less sanding
Also, using those small head sanders is not going to get u the desired flat non undulating surfaces.....u will need to do block sanding to remove highs and lows and that killer flat surface like the cat at the boat show, you must block sand and use guide coat to expose the ares that are high and low.......I’ve done boats and drywall too and it really hard to get that high end production boat finish without that method........
Ok I have to respond to the ICP reference. That band was around in the late 90s and may still be going. They are the insane clown posse. They drink fago and spray down the crowd and there followers are known as juggalos from what I recall. They where popular in the northern California area where I was once from. Love the great work on the boat keep up the great work.
Jessica, you stated that you were all ears with fairing suggestions. May I suggest you looking at some Onboard Lifestyles videos, also on youtube. Teal is the best I've seen at fairing catamarans. I'll post a link or two if you need me to.
Yeah I'd struggle with 3-4hrs of sanding a day too, don't beat yourself up over that Jess, just plan something else thats less physically intensive, and give yourself a break. you both need to look after your bodies, you want to be able to enjoy the boat when it's finished.
I've started working it out now that I'll do about 3-4 hours a day of sanding, and then 3 hours of applying fairing compound to a new area. On the days when I can only do sanding, I'll spend my mornings in the Viking editing, and go work in the tent after lunch. 🙂
@@MJSailing I knew you'd find a rhythm 👍🏼Make sure Matt doesn't wear himself out too, Men have a habit of not taking a break when they should (I'm guilty of this too)
You know on all of our boats with the fairing compound on and then have to glass something onto it we just glass right over the fairing compound we don't sand it off it is epoxy based and will stick just good as the resin for your glass will.
Hey guys I left one message maybe this will help you out a little when you get done doing your short passes go from one end to the other and make one long pass it will help smooth everything out it may take a few times to get used to it but I'm pretty sure it will help you out and long run it will also make everything flatter
If I were building this boat, I would just leave a great majority of the rough spots and use a textured spray on gel coat to blend in with the rough spots. I hate sanding because it is very difficult to get it just right. I always see imperfections no matter how carefully I prepare the surface. Another way to hide imperfections is to use a satin or eggshell finish as glossy reveals EVERYTHING.
Definitely won't be going glossy within our cabinets, and they most likely will get a lightly textured paint. 🙂 Not sure yet about the bulkheads though.
