Great Job! I'm getting ready to pull the floor in my 1996 bayliner that has sat stagnant for 11 years. I'm a little shaky, but videos like these are slowly building my confidence.
MAN you gave me hope, I pick up a 1976.stinger bass boat and trust me, the guy I got it from said to me "this bass boat is junk, it will take a lot of money to repair the hull. All the wood rotted, a soft spot on the fiberglass, No transom ect, This boat is completely gutted, meaning no wiring no steering wheel or assembly that go's with the steering no seats no gages. Man I mean nothing but the Hull and a fiberglass deck, Anyways watching your video gave me a little hope by at least fixing the stringer(reinforced the Hull) giving life back to this boat by doing it my self, To me that is a first step on saving a hole bunch of money if you what I mean, Man I wish you were my neighbor, Anyway Thank you for this video,
Yes I did use fabric. The west system is incredibly easy to use. I highly recommend it. And it does not smell so you can do the repair in a garage without having everything (doors) open. It's more expensive the polyester resin but in my opinion well worth the extra money.
Nice job well done, I would have done it a bit different o what you did but the result would have been the same, ( I'm a fiberglass laminator and boat repairer by trade ) as long as you have structural strength and all your timber is sealed with glass it should last a nuther 10 years, good job guys.
This is the next project on my 91' Barefoot Sanger. Did you just tab the floor to the side, or attach to the stringers using screws/filler? Thanks for the video!
Hey my boat has no bulkheads in at the moment, i bought some marine ply (18mm thick) I'm gonna put them in soon do i need to waterproof the whole thing with Fiberglass or should it be alright if i just fiberglassed the sides that sit on the boat hull? Will it rot out quick? Thanks.
If you don't glass it completely yes it will rot, a lot of people use marine ply only because they think the word MARINE means its for boats and its special ply, most boat repairers use form ply it is a lot harder and can handle moisture better but it still needs to be sealed ( form ply is what we use here in Australia it has hard dark coating on each side you guy's may call it something different over were you are ) make sure you make a drain hole in the bulkhead at the bottom of its well, you will need to do that for each bulkhead you put in and make sure you seal the timber around the inside of the hole.
Nice video. But it sux for slow readers like myself. I was like pause play pause play pause play! Just so I could read and look at the picture after! Lol! Not your fault! I'm just a snail reader!
horrible job.if you have the stringer in front of your eyes you encapsulate the f out of them with fiberglass to the bottom of boat!!! wtf lol that ski pylon gonna rip that shxt riht out after little water kills that tiny stringer with no coverage of fg on it
@@SuperJlonergan can't understand why they weren't laminated to the hull with fibreglass and sealed properly! Doesn't look very strong, but then again, must be just a lake boat.
What's the hurry ? You put up text, figure out how long it takes to read it, then immediately move on before the text and the picture can be understood together.
flotation foam in the floor? what is going to keep the boat up if you swamp....thought that was a USCG requirement to be neutrally buoyant. Maybe it is in the rails on your boat?
