This reminds me of when I bought a crappy fishing boat in South Dakota. Someone said that a boat is a hole in the water that your pour your money into.
(sorry for my English, I am not a native) I would be worried that the newly inserted piece of wood interrupts the flow of force in the deck. There is a risk that - despite a lot for fibreglass - it will always move a little at the edges and break at some point. You should reinforce it from below with a large plate or cross braces to better distribute the forces of the windlass.
If you need to put holes into your hull or deck or anywhere that really needs you to seal the interior of the hull with epoxy then the way I've learnt to do this is to make the hole larger than required, fill it about 80% full with thickened epoxy and then push a liberally greased metal rod the right diameter through the epoxy. I clamp or get someone to hold a wooden pad over one side of the hole to prevent the epoxy being pushed out which make the epoxy squidge out on the side I'm pushing the rod through. This also forces the epoxy into all the nooks and crannies in the hole. Once the rod has reached the pad on the other side it can be removed and the rod pushed through more so that it protrudes both sides. I then centre the rod in the hole both sides, clamp that in position and wait for the epoxy to cure. Then withdraw the rod. It sounds more complicated than it is, but I have some photos of the procedure when I put a hole through the stem of my boat for a new bobstay fitting if you're interested. By the way, my boat's hull is wooden so screwing pads and wot not in place is simple to do and to fill afterwards
Because you are dealing with equipment like the windlass which is going to have frequent tension and strain I'd reinforce in the locker space under the windlass with either a metal plate or something that will distribute the stresses, not leave the patched area to cope with the load. Sorry for being a bit of a worry guts, I'm sure you probably thought of this and know what you are doing! Stay safe both! 🙏
I'd be tempted to replace that wooden 'platform' the windlass was sitting on with a much larger stainless steel plate, bolted through the hull as a reinforcement. It's whether they can find something of about the right size in Aruba.
@@nickbates7645 Yeah needs to be secure under the floor as well as on top, that patch unfortunately does create a weakness. Think they should be able to find something that'll work.
Always ask if they have trash scraps of what you’re looking for. Sometimes they have broke ones. You might have to ask a manager but I’ve usually found broke sheets of drywall and even plywood.
I worked at a fiberglass boat factory. You guys just brought back itchiness to a whole new level. LOL. Great work. I would though, reinforce the bottom bolts of the windless with a piece that spans the whole bottom side of the base inside the locker. Of course by the time I see this you are done your project. Cheers
Good work each job individually well done by both of you. Great attitude. When tackling boat work, there is nothing to fear but fear, anything is possible.
Zach and Becka, Nice job, Zach. Becka, I guess that you are glad that you found a "time out" place for Zach...ha... Y'all are awesome. Thank you for sharing. Blue Skies and Fair Weather. Faithfully, James
Good that you got rid of the rotten balsa wood, but why replace it with another piece of wood. There are a number of synthetic boards you could use that will not rot Maurice
you need to get that man a jig saw and a skill saw! its painfull watching him cut plywood with a multi tool... you guys are killing it btw living my dream!
Brilliant your a dream couple and team well done, your parents will be very very proud of you both. 😂😂 You will need to have a regular inspection of the outlets just to make sure that they don't become blocked with the likes of sea weed coming up with the chain. I'm always worried about your fantastic ring young lady so easy to get damaged and Come off on the inside of rubber gloves. I live in a motorhome so still have many jobs to do. But far easier to do external work, (no water) but I'm self sufficient with solar engery and all mod cons and enjoying my travels with my 2 dogs.😅😅. Now looking into using Sterling for Internet cheers
Cut out a nice square or oblong ( cut inside skin of GRP and insert a piece of marine ply with thicken dry epoxy. Then bond larger piece of ply larger on the inside also. Re epoxy up holes from outside then re drill for windlass and it will be stronger than before. As it is in the pictures so far the thin layer of GRP on deck is taking all the stress if you put now a second larger ply board that covered the lot and goes onto the good inner GRP and one it together it will hide the none symmetrical ply panel and both look better and be much stronger for the windlass which was never fitted correctly and the reason this all failed. Hope this helps.
agree to above, saves me saying it. tab into walls with lots of glass too. try using mini rollers for painting, so much quicker and does a better job. kitchen scales for measuring epoxy, quick and super accurate.
Cheers for the advice, in hindsight this would have been a good idea. We would have used marine ply but can't get it on Aruba. The new windlass we have will transfer the forces slightly differently to the last, so hopefully it won't be a repeat of the last one😅
Good morning Teulu Tribe. What a productive week. Thank you for always taking the extra time needed to film for us. Talk about fiberglass in your bits, I wondered why you didn't have on a suit to start with Zach? Great stuff. Great team. Very nice people. I'm gonna keep watching. Stay safe. ❤🙏
Zach and Becka, I hadn't finished watching, when I sent my earlier comment, but; amazing paint job, Becka. You both deserve a pint; or two. Thank y'all for sharing. Cheers! Faithfully, James
Zac, becka, Great effort I know what its like working in a chain locker and that was in the UK the heat in there must have been unbearable. I am however concerned that the plywood that you used is not a marine ply and that may cause you a problem in the future. Make sure you you seal any holes you put through. It also looks like you only really put one layer of glass on and it did not overlap with the old glass around it very much. I would have put at least two if not three layers on there and gone at least 100mm over the old glass with a tapered joint. After all your windless is fixed to that repair and if there is any weakness it will show in the future when you least need it to.
I have a 30 ft. Pearson. Whereas you are removing an electric windlass that probably was original equipment on your 80s boat, I recently installed a manual Lofrans windlass I bought from Ebay. That's the difference between a 30 ft. and a 37-foot boat.😅
There is a kind of plastic called Starboard, which is much more durable than plywood, which I used to reinforce the deck. One plate on top on the deck, one plate below the deck. I'm not sure if you can get it where you are. The load on a windlass is enormous while anchoring during a storm.
@@bitsurfr46agree the forces on the windlass are enormous and having a sandwich of plates above and below decks makes sense, but during a storm, most of the load should be taken up by the snubber rather than the windlass shouldn’t it? 🤔
Assuming. You are using all chain rode and use a snubber. You are probably right. As a coastal sailor, I often use a mix of chain and rope rode. I got the deck plate idea from a RU-vid video search entitled "LoFrams manual windlass." I feel more secure with deck plates. They will never rot.
Zac, nice 'climber's hands', mine look the same just a fair bit older 😀 - rock and teeth always the best manicure! To you both that was a beautiful anchor locker transformation, so satisfying.
Great job but I think you need more support under the anchor winch & holes in the bow of you boat are a definite no-no. Water will surely get forced in every time the bow hits a wave.
It’s a really common feature on boats and works well. It will be no problem at all but I would want to make sure the internal bulkhead hatch is water tight
Nice Job!! I know Becca isn't going to like my suggestion, but a yoga mat cut to the shape of your chain locker floor might protect the floor and fiber glass work. I'm pretty sure the mat won't absorb the moisture too. Just a thought. 😊
Now to repair the deck teak, align/drill/prep deck penetrations, mount the windless and seal with copious sika. You guys are rockstars at working together.
Top tip for the throughhull drains in anchor locker and other similar through….deck etc…..once drilled out (oversized) cast a full plug in the hole with thickened epoxy and then drille with a smaller diameter the hole you actually need….then you remain 100 pct sure that the walls of the hole have a coating of properly adhered epoxy…drying time will be the same, but much faster to cast and drill rather than mess about with your makeup brush.
Those holes near the waterline are going to let water in some situations, for example ar anchor when there's fetch, or at low speed in rough weather. Our victor has dry bilges, there is a hose that comes all the way back to the main bilge pump under the stuffing box. Its not perfect cause it might clog. Im thinking of creating a pocket woth a grate where the chain sits and install a small bilge pump to drain to the front bathroom sink thru hole. Its always nice to see you work, keep it up. Cheers.
@@TeuluTribe Guys I've been thinking about this and I locked at our victor while sailing, it does not need much healing to submerge drain hole. It can be submerged for a long time on passage. There is another maybe higher issue. Imagine you are sailing and some tru hole or hose starts letting water in "it happens there are tons of videos out there" you are outside enjoying the sail when you realize the kitchen is already knee deep in water, now the leak is under water you cant find it quickly. Meanwhile the boat has sunk a bit raising the waterline covering the drain holes water will start to come in and you have a very heavy chain on top of them. Not a good design at all. Maybe prepare at least some bangs to be able to stuff the drains in case you need to. We just want you to be safe. Cheers.
Blows my mind every time! Why wasn't every hole through the cored deck properly epoxied? It's so easy to do it right the first time vs. having to deal with balsa or ply rot. You guys did well!
A hole saw is better for drilling through fibreglass. There will be less damage around the hole the with a speedbore which is really a timber drill. Great work though guys!
The little screws in the deflector for each whole you drilled on the hull. Another option is to drill an oversized whole, fill it with epoxy then screw the little screws into the epoxy instead of the original material of the hull that might have timber inside. That will avoid water to travel/ been absorbed through your hull!
Ok, you 2, just another helpful hint from an old busybody. Surely(don’t call me Shirley)someone in Portsmouth or Piccadilly said always use powder when working with glass. But not talcum. Use it plentifully so as to fill your pores to keep the glass out. At least give it a try. You’ll be glad you did. It rinses off quite nicely. Ta Ta until my next nosey tidbit.
Well done. The part I would find the hardest is the overhead jobs, my arms don't like being above my head lol. I agree with Zach, if you're doing a job, do it right once not haphazard several times. Keep up the excellent work on your fabulous home.
Great job guys, looks totally professional! Are you planning to sand and varnish your teak deck? Would make a great vid as well. Love watching all your boat maintenance jobs ❤
Fantastic teamwork you two👏 And all the jobs your taking on and doing it as good as anyone in a boatyard or even better, I’m halfway through a 2 year project myself and doing it with no short cuts, nice to know what you have in a gale⛵️❤️
Suggest you make up a bit of metal rod that will fit through those new drain holes and long enough to easily reach from outside the locker. I expect you will need it regularly to keep the drain holes open. I trust the hatch is water proof as in a seaway water will be coming in those holes every time the bow goes down.
Looks great! I know it’s important to have a sound base for the windless and you should feel much more at ease now that it’s been repaired and anchor locker properly upgraded!🙂
That was another nice sample of oohh glorious (partly unexpected) boat DIY Zack and Rebecca.😅🎉 And how good that you encourage and compliment each other. I've often missed that in my life..focus was more on mistakes and thus criticism..so sometimes my eyes filled up and my heart flooded when I see you guys in there like that.❤❤ Bravely forward and sail on today's wind (or at least try..😅)😢
Hey guys looking great Just a thought did this in my chain locker I put a big plastic drum to catch the chain completely protecting the inside and easy to remove put two holes and a bit of hose to drain it to the through holes you have put in Keep up the good work J.
Love the videos guys! I do agree though that those drain holes are way to close to the waterline. On your next shakedown, keep some way to plug them close by and maybe a drill in order to drill a hole in the floor of the anchor locker to let the water go back into the bilge. Just in case ;) A deep anchor locker has major advantages to performance, but the drawback is getting rid of the water. I'd focus on making the locker water tight from above on passage. Fair winds!
Hey guys, WARNING! when mixing westsystem epoxy do not underestimate how dangerous it is! I myself developed a total epoxy allergy from not using protection. Today I cannot be in the same room as epoxy. It is much more dangerous than you think!
Do you have any concerns about water coming in those drain holes while you are sailing? Waves and while you are healing over under way? It's highly likely those will be below the water line.
What perseverance! Your forepeak design and teak-work looks identical to our Colvic Watson that was built in Maldon, Essex, but the anchor locked drained externally!
Awesome job guys, given the confined space and limited tools. Looks great and no more dirty seawater in the bilge. Imagine if you had not been using anchor snubbers that winch could have pulled out the deck. Winch looks fine though, just needs dismantling and clean up before paint. Make sure you put a good plate on the deck, maybe even laminate a grp one. Andy UK
Hi Tribe Teulu, good work. I’ve been following you for a year or so. I’m wondering how well a centre cockpit serves you in the heat out there? I’m looking to buy a boat, and wanted one like that, but the consultants I talk to say you want a bigger cockpit for the hot weather locations, as you spend all your time out there, and not in the boat proper.
