This was a killer swell with almost perfect swell direction. 180 degree swell at 19 seconds 10-15ft Wedge! There was a full lineup with surfers, bodyboarders, and bodysurfers. Everyone scored something this day, I would have been on the inside picking off nuggets that got away from 90% of people charging. Those were some of the best shape waves of the day. You definitely had to be patient for the massive sets to come in, but there was waves all day! Surfline was exaggerating like they always do, and was calling for the following day to be just as big, and it wasn't even close, basically a lake compared to Sept 4.
1 окт 2024
