late 60’s early 70’s at 11th st H.B we caught some major southwest swells. we used duckfeet and our chests, hands tucked catching outside monsters that broke 3 times putting us on the sand, what a rush. sometimes going over the falls, getting buried, just relaxing. i still have dreams.
sounds like so much fun. HB is fun, the waves break a lot slower so it's hard to keep up with them without getting swallowed by the whitewater but the longer rides sure make up for it when you pick off a good one. those shorebreaks are always a blast, whole wetsuit full of sand after a few good smashers ahh i love it
i've never tried vipers before, dafins just seemed like the ultimate for bodysurfing and I never branched out. why are the vipers better for bigger waves?
@@jazzyjoe364 stiffer Blade hense more powerful alot more I have ordered a pair of yucca fins I will see how that fin goes, the dafin is super comfortable and i have only just had them a month so far the testing on body surfing and bodyboarding is decent I will definitely keep them in my kit, just the bigger days which there are less big days then small in beach surf, I live in Sydney not north shore Hawaii, but we still get big waves in winter, and sparcly in summer, my experience is from 1996 to 2009 bodyboarding and bodysurfing, I sold off most of my boards and fins except my v5 vipers those put my in Some Giants I will never forget. Hey maybe the dafins might get me back in the pocket just training hard to prepare my breath holds for the big bad waves of winter, Iam looking at getting a V7 viper for big wave bodysurfing and a Ms viper for bodyboarding. Certain fins and boards for certain occasions.
@@jazzyjoe364 it's been 14 years since I have been in the ocean but muscle memory is all coming back to me. 🤘All new boards and fins have been created in the last 14 years.
@@Tonystarkes888 sweeet thanks for the tips! I talked to a guy at the surf shop and he was saying the stiffness of vipers make your feet blister until you develop a callus. ROUGH. some of my longer bodyboard sessions (3 hours+) with churchills made my feet blister too and then I cant use fins for a week!! Ill have to try vipers when I get a chance for both bodyboarding and bodysurfing, but I love my churchills for bodyboarding, I recently learned to do dropknee and the slanted design is essential for that. also, dafins are garbage for bodyboarding, they arent symmetrical so the downkick is really tough and the upkick is too easy. the vertical wings on top of the fins makes it hard to get the fins under water far enough to generate speed
@@jazzyjoe364 skip the v5s that’s probably for old school veterans like me, I love the power and blisters are great makes you tougher sounds like the advice you are getting is from a bitch, I should dust off my hydro tech 2 fins haven’t used them as well for years they are perfect for riding hollow tubes, I can’t wait for my yuccas to arrive they are designed for body boarding but I also see top body surfers use it as well, like kalani he used yuccas on jaws and a handplane called Taylor’s mistake, check that website I received mine a few weeks ago.
on my forehead, I use the gopro head mount with a cord tied to my wetsuit in case it falls off. I tried using the head mount with a floaty attached but it was waaay too bulky so I just rawdog it now without a floaty, that way the camera goes through the water easily. with that setup it only falls off my head 2-3 times per session and only on the biggest wipeouts
that's an early start, you musta had good parents. I started in my teens and only liked bodysurfing back then, you can feel the power of the wave more without a board. I love it
@@jazzyjoe364 Body surfing at 3 years old. Body surfed the Wedge at 10. Didn't have a board but 'took' friend's brothers 9'6' at age 12 into storm weather in San Diego...Parents unaware of my whereabouts always. Used to swim far beyond big breakers at Newport age 4. Liked to dive down and try to get shells in murky water. Crazy dangerous. My much older brother would sometimes come out to yell at me at say "Hey, I'm supposed to be watching you!". Yah right ~ he was busy watching the girls back on shore ~ Hah ~ No Fear ~ Didn't even know the word for Riptide at 4 ~ the water's moving 'funny' 🌊
