I use the 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits to get the gunk off. It might take 3 or more sessions of this until the rag you are cleaning up with come out without gunk. I used to think that it takes some number of blo coatings. After quite a few stocks, I found that the wood will tell you when it is enough. What you will notice is that there will be parts of the stock that is not absorbing after a day or so. Then I do a couple of light coatings and it is done for now. Use you fingers and hands to apply the blo, the heat and pressure will get it down into the grain. Also, It’s good to remember the old saying: Once a day for a week Once a week for a month Once a month for a year Every year.
cool video and good information. thanks for the content. with one dispute: when maintained properly a linseed oil finish protects wood infinitely better than your typical poly finish. i’ve done a ton of testing or “experimenting” with it. i also started using raw linseed oil. i think the one i bought was made by linsheen, to be specific. i originally gave it a try upon learning that it is without the majority of additional crud. lead being one.. and it doesn’t smell nearly as strong. the only downside i have found is that it takes nearly twice as long to “dry.” just my $0.02! have a good day, brother!
@@FlyingKSports the old finish had gone to shit on mine. Same with the metal. My grandfather only got it for 20$ and they’re worth 75$ nowadays so wouldn’t really hurt to alter it.
Thanks for sharing! On a side note, I noticed the silhouette of a bodybuilder doing a twisting rear double bicep pose on John Henry’s tee and immediately knew it was Arnold. The front of John Henry’s tee confirmed it! 💪🏼
@@FlyingKSports it actually is in fact boiled but it is done so in a vacuum chamber and heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit this way they avoid the flashpoint. After so they add siccatives to help with drying then they refine it a huge number of times. I have a video explaining the process 👍🏼
I've finished several Mosin-Nagants with BLO, even though the original Russian/Soviet finish appeared to be some mixture of motor oil, steppe mud, vodka, and Nazi blood! 😂 Seriously - some war surplus stocks were so filthy and gunky i think whatever soldier was issued them was posted to the bottom of an oil well and then given latrine duty every day. I recently refinished a Savage 99c made in 1969 where the original shiny varnish finish was chipping and flaking off. Stripped and refinished with BLO. It looks beautiful now, even if i do say so myself!
I love taking the polyurethane varnish off reproduction Civil war muskets, staining them the proper color and coating them down with multiple coatings of Boiled linseed oil. They come out looking like a real period rifled musket.
How long did it take for it to “cure”? I read that if you apply without waiting for the first application to “cure” you’ll go no where fast and that patience is key..
After you apply the blo I wait about 30 minutes then wipe off any excess. Let it sit overnight. The next day it should be ready to handle or you give it another coat.
@@FlyingKSports finish two stocks next to each other at the same time. Tell me that same sentence when your finished. You can easily tell when a WW1/WW2 Veteran had a rifle and took care of it compared to a civilian owner or someone that collects rifles improperly for historical purposes. BLO will leave a semi-Gloss like shine. RLO does not have this semi gloss like effect.
Nice video, and it's great to see a Lee-Enfield get the treatment (I regret not getting one cheaply when I had the chance...). Can I ask, does the boiled linseed oil you use have the additives that speed up the hardening process? I think some do not, but most do? Regards from Oz, DP
@@FlyingKSports Thanks for the prompt reply. I thought some boiled linseed oil products really did omit the chemical hardeners, but had been treated with hot air to make it dry faster (although probably not as fast as with the hardeners added). I'll look to see what's available to me locally as an alternatives to Tru-Oil. Regards, DP
Does applying the boiled linseed oil on top of the original finish do anything? I was told I have to strip the original finish off first. This is regarding my 112 year old Swedish Mauser
My dad was a.proponent of thinning the first coat or two... I think the idea was it would penetrate deeper and have more product inside the wood. Thoughts?
I’ve never tried thinning the BLO. I have warmed it to get it a little thinner and even warmed the wood. Never had any trouble with oil getting into wood only the other way around.
On bare wood I would suggest at least 6 coats. It’s one of those things, the more the better. Give it time. Allow it to fully dry between coats. 24 hours between coats at the minimum.
Is there any kind of a wood wax....I have an m1a and my wood stock looks excessively dry in a few places...I want to moisturize it....but I don't want my wood stock To be Shiney or glossy
I recently received my first M1 Garand from CMP. I ordered it with a grade ‘Expert’ which means it included a brand new walnut stock. It’s incredible. To your knowledge, does anyone ever checker their stocks for an M1? I’m doing some mild customization, like jeweling the bolt, and have thought that checkering in a couple of spots would enhance my grip on the rifle.
