In this video I repair a Bosch Powerpack battery with faulty BMS. The diode of the 5 V voltage regulator was shorted (which happens often). After this small repair, the battery is perfectly fine again.
After loosing time and money with two battery repair companies who said they can't do anything for my BOSCH battery, I sent it to Wim and he brought it back to life ! So Happy ! Great thank you Wim for your help. You are Top !
I cannot thank Wim enough! Having watched this video and then contacting him for advice, he was just so helpful from the start. I ended up sending my BMS (plus one I got from eBay) to him and the turnaround was really quick, the price was great and I now have 2 working BMS. My local bosch service centre were no help at all, but 'kindly' offered to take my powerpack off my hands for recycling.... Thanks Wim, absolutely top service
Hi there, can you tell me how you contacted him to ship your item? I can't find contact details? I want to have my BMS repaired thank you for your answer
Sent a faulty Bosch powerpack 500 BMS board to Wim, he diagnosed and fixed the issue, put the BMS back in the powerpack, now working a treat. No help from Bosch at all, complete waste of time. Wim did a fantastic job, thank you Wim 👍
Nice work! What is that solder sucktion gun calld? Is it possible to have a closer camera picture so its easy to actually se whats done? Did you just refloo?
Hi which end does the cathode go to? The outside of the board (towards + leads) or the inside of the board? The one I removed had no visible band and everything seems to be a short circuit on both sides of the trace. I can supply 5V to the outside pad and get the lights to light up though. With diode removed (all packs are showing 4V and seem to be good) I get 1.2V on the outside pad.
Thanks Wim, this was a great video. I saw you try to repair a Shimano Steps battery but it was not possible because of the thermal sensors glued in between the cells. Do you think Bosch battery packs are easier to repair and if so, should I look to buy a Bosch powered ebike instead of a Shimano system if they are easier to repair?
I think that was a video from The Battery Doctor ;) I don't do Shimano at the moment, only Bosch. Bosch has quality stuff, but they don't support repair (they only want to sell you new batteries or motors). Everything is repairable, but you'll have to find someone who has experience.
@@wim4245 Thanks Wim, yes I agree with you everything should be repaired if possible otherwise we just feed the 'capitalist monster' and turn the world into a rubbish dump of broken products that could be used again! Great to know there are people like you out there..
Hi wim Are you able to repair the latest Bosch 500 packs as I thought there was a chip on the new board that "dies" if there is a fault and stops the battery for being used at all I have two of these packs with no life if you can fix them please? I can remove the board and post it if the board will still work when power has been removed from it?
Many people think that if they desolder the cables from the BMS or unplug both jacks and bms locks immediately. Make more videos and share information.Thank you.
Thank you, great video. I have a Bosch PowerTube 500 that refuses to charge and that displays 2 flashing LEDs when I plug it to the charger or when I press the charge control button on the battery with this disposition of the LEDs: Yes No Yes No. I tried to maintain the control button pressed for 30s to reset the pack but I've still the same issue. Do you a have a clue of what is going on? The pack is two-year-old with probably >500 charges (I use it almost everyday to go to work). I hope that it is not dead. I used it yesterday and after my drive, the load was low but not at zero.
LED 2+4 is an error code that needs to be cleared with Bosch diagnostics software. I could be caused by moisture, but there are several possible causes.
Hi, I hope there will be more videos because you bring up interesting topics;) I have Bosch classic 400Wh batteries, I replaced the damaged button in the BMS under voltage and I made a short to B +. The battery is charging but the bike does not start. Do you have any idea what could be damaged?
Goedendag wim, welk model soldeer bout/station gebruik jij , of hovel watt heb ik nodig . (Ik heb namelijk wel moeite met het verwijderen van de dikkere kabels van de bms )
Dag Wim, batterij geopend, zie veel waterdruppels, lampjes werken niet, maar laad wel op! batterij gemeten en helft geeft 25v en ander helft 1.2v. bitter weinig lijkt me. plaatje lijkt me wel door corrosie aangetast, heb het wel schoongemaakt maar is duidelijk zwart aan de zijde van de lampjes. zijn deze apart te verkrijgen? of alsnog te repareren??
Ik heb een 400 pack die niet meer werkt. Ik zie wel 4 leds, maar laadt niet en geen communicatie met display. Met een andere batterij werkt alles wel. Heb de cellen gemeten, die zijn 3.8v Enig idee?
Hello Wim, I tried testing the diodes on my Powerpack 500 BMS and shorted it out with my probes. I still had the thing connected to the cells because of all the stuff I read online about the BMS dying when losing power but the more I learn I think that's just a myth. I tested the cells afterwards and found that they seems to be fine. My question is, can I get a BMS from a Powerpack 400 and use my cells from my Powerpack 500 to make a new Powerpack 500?
Hello Wim, I tried to repair a dead battery (bosch powerpack 400), it was discharged and stayed in this state for more than six months, I replaced all 40 cells, however, during the replacement process, I completely disconnected the BMS board from cells, now when I assembled the battery, the indicator on the BMS shows a full charge, but when I connect the battery to the ebike it starts up and turns off immediately. Are there ways to factory reset the BMS board on the battery so that it sees the new cells capacity?
Dag Wim, vraagje. Ik heb een Powerpack 400 en kan de batterypack gewoon laden (ledjes doen prima hun werk). Gebruik ik de fiets dan gaat het display na een kort stukje ondersteund fietsen geheel uit. Zet ik het weer aan dan herhaalt zich het proces. Dit ligt aan de batterij. Gebruik ik een andere batterij op de fiets dan doet het probleem zich niet voor. Wat kan er met die batterij zijn?
Hi Wim, what is the best part to use to replace the voltage regulator. I have seen TPS57160-Q1 recommended but can only find one very expensive source for that.
@@tominterrupto If you have time, you can order them on Aliexpress. Probably counterfeit, but I’ve got good experience with these. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001970720656.html
mijn powerpack is ook defect, waar kan men de diode kopen en welk type moet ik hebben? Kan ik mij bord eventueel opsturen voor herstelling? en wat vraag je ervoor?
Hii. Can you tell me how to connect bosch battery to another bike. Because it has the positive, the negative and 2 thinner wires that must be a key to activate the bms, if you join these 2 wires the battery becomes active?
Hi Wim, great video!. I have a powerpack 300 , and indeed the Schottky diode is fried (tested with the multimeter). However, I read that the battery should be completely dead if that happens, but mine still lights up one LED when the putton is pressed. Are you familiar with the symptom? Will a diode replacement fix the problem? Also, I read online that disconnecting the bms from voltage will brick it, but that doesn't seem to be the case for you in the vid. So that's a myth I suppose and I can safely remove it from the battery? thank!
If the LEDs light, the diode is definitely working. Your measurement is probably messed up because your BMS wasn't disconnected. Disconnecting is no problem.
@@wim4245 thanks very much, that helps a lot. WHere would you suggest that I look for the problem? The cells are all ~3.69V. THe battery doesn't charge (only one LED is on all the time when plugged in), pressing the battery button for 10-20 sec does nothing, and the bike disconnects the battery after 10 seconds of operation... Any suggestions most appreciated...
Hi Wim, Can you answer a question? If the diode is blown will any lights come on. Conversely if a battery is not working but the lights come on - can you be sure that the diode has not blown? cheers Tommy B.
Hi, great video. I recently had my bike diagnose with Bosch dealer and they shorted out my Bosch Powerpack 500. They claim it was my battery failing but it was working fine before. Could you help repair. thx
Hi Wim, great video, i have Bosch 400wh battery that has just stopped charging, bike is a daily commute and has been fine up until now, i have removed the back cover and all seems ok with no signs of any water damaged, i think it must be the BMS board that’s faulty, can you send me a link on where to purchased 1 please, or do you do a fix service i can post to you, im based in London, many thanks in advance, stef
Dag Wim, Heb ook een kortgesloten diode SS14 op een BOSCH fietsbatterij - Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4 - 36V - 13,4Ah 500Wh - type: 0275007532 Mijn vraag is aan welke zijde is de anode op het board? Opdruk op de meeste componenten is niet zichtbaar. Is het vaseline dat je gebruikt aan de rubber afdichting van het deksel? Groetjes, Roland BTW, fantastisch dat er mensen zijn die zulke video’s posten, THANKS!
Dag Ronald, De kathode zit aan de kant van de MOSFET's. Als je de datasheet van de spanningsregelaar opzoekt (TPS57160Q) kan je hem ook terugzien in het aansluitschema. Ik gebruik diëlektrisch siliconevet op de naad. Vooral de bagagedragers hebben snel last van vochtinsijpeling. Groeten, Wim
Thanks for great video. I just bought a dud Powerpack 400 and looks like - guess what - diode is shorted out! One question - when you test the BMS at the end what voltage are you passing in and are you also sending 5v to the 5v rail?
I tested it with the max my bench supply could do - which was 31v and the LIGHTS CAME ON! Reassembled battery - it is charging! Put in the bike - working great. Job done new battery for £46! Thanks Wim!
Goedemorgen Wim ik heb een thompson voltage met bosch power pack 400 Classic de fiets heeft nooit problemen gehad en met in de storm te rijden was het in een keer gedaan display uit en mijn lichten gingen zacht dood
Hi Wim, Ik heb de schottky diode verwisseld en als ik de bms aansluit op 30V dan lichten alleen de eerste 3 lampjes op, betekent dit dat hij wel werkt of is deze dan ook dood
If the MCU is shorted, a new BMS is the easiest solution. If you have a BMS with water damage, you could swap the MCU. Keep in mind that other components on the 5 V and 3.3 V are probably also blown and in need of replacement.
Can you help please. I am replacing the Schottky Diode as my 500w power pack is dead. There is no marking on the defective diode to show me which way around the replacement goes. I do not want to cause further damage by connection it the wrong way around. Are you able to indicate to me the positive and negative orientation for the new diode. Thank you
Hi @wim I followed your steps and now the Powerpack turns on and charges. However when I connect it to the bike (2019 ecube reaction hybrid pro 400, purion display, Bosch 250W 75Nm mid-drive) the display turns on, shows the battery status and the riding mode but shuts off in 2 to 10 seconds. If I try to turn it on while paddling I can feel the motor engaging correctly but the bike shuts off regardless after 2 to 10 seconds. I tried reset the battery and tighten/adjust the battery holder with no luck. Any thoughts? Thanks for helping!
Difficult to say without diagnosing the battery. De battery turning off, is probably because the BMS senses something is wrong. Could be imbalance, faulty current reading, temperature out of range… These could be caused by a, actual fault, a faulty connection, but also caused by a faulty component. First step would be connecting to diagnostics computer.
could you theoretically replace the bms with a simpler replacement BMS with a mechanicall on/off button if willing to sacrifice on/off function feim handlebars?
Hi Win Thanks for those videos very instructive I have a power pack 400 2 first diode light when I press the button When I connect the charger I hear the click, the second diode start blinking for 10 to 20 second and then stop and the charge stop Pack is out of warranty for a while Before dismantling any idea where it could come from based on your experience? Thanks Olivier
Sounds like unbalaced cells. Do you get error 640 on your bike? Measure cell voltages first. If they are unbalaced, you can balance them but it probably won't help long. Only good solution in that case is to replace all cells.
@@wim4245 thanks for your he quick answer, I opened up the pack an there are some which are as low as 3,5 v, I’ll try à charge of each pack to see If I can recover the nominal voltage but you’re right there must be cells ending up their lives…Can I replace them with some with bigger capacity ?, do you have a site for good cells at a decent price? Thanks
Hello Wim I did a refresh of the 10 individual 4p packs, they are all at around 9500 ma capacity and I reach 4.15 to 4.2 v full charge, I therefore conclude that batterie can still serve a bit. However once all reconnected I have only 2 led lighting when I do a test pressing the button…any idea how how could troubleshoot further ?
Hi... should the battery have an output of 42volts standalone when checking with the multimeter? I am getting variable voltage output of between 9 and 10 volts at battery output and 41.0 volts across the opened battery pack. Would the controller send data over battery data wires to BMS to switch and increase battery output to 41.0 volts? Many thanks... I bought gazelle with impulse motor and German battery not working.
Hier ook een batterypack 500 met led 2 en 4 die knipperen op de accu. Laden kan niet meer. Handleiding zegt dat de accu defect is, meer niet... is hier ook de bms stuk of eerder de cellen? De leds, de printplaat vertonen wel vochtsporen
Hallo Wim, Ik ben op zoek naar een vervang BMS voor een powerpack 400, aangezien het 10 pinnig IC tje naast de diode op het 1ste zicht opgerookt is alsook de diod
Ik heb een 400 Powerpack 2018 voor in het frame en daar zitten op het BMS 2 aansluitingen op die naar de motor (+controller) gaan, kan ik het BMS van de accu in de film voor deze accu gebruiken ik zie nergens die 2 connectoren ..?
@@wim4245 Ik heb mij een gebruikte 400 Accu zoals in filmpje gekocht op Marktplaats en daarvan het BMS gebruikt in mijn eigen accu en het werkt! Is wel een enigzins geklooi om de accu case weer goed dicht te krijgen zonder iets te beschadigen. Dank voor de antwoorden en raad!
Als ik een stevige berg of heuvel omhoog fiets dan valt vaker de ondersteuning weg, is dit te wijten aan een mindere defecte cel en dat dan door spanningsval het BMS de accu blokkeert (Powepack 400)? Kan het ook aan het BMS zelf liggen ik heb er net een ander ingezet van een andere accu? dank
IK heb een bosch batterijpack en zou zo'n diode willen , zou u deze kunnen opzenden , of een herstelling kan u deze doen als ik ze opzend, cellen lijken me ok hebben +-4 volt en iets hoger , wat kost zo'n herstelling bij u ?
Hi, as an electronics enthusiast I'm trying to repair my bosch battery myself. The diode and button are ok, what are other common things that i can check that maybe are broken?
@@wim4245 corrosion is not the issue (clean pcb). 5V is ok. CAN-IC I don't know yet. If there is something wrong with the balancing ic, then the bms can't be repaired I guess?
Hello Wim, I have a Bosch powerpack 500 which don't deliver anymore electricity to my e bike. I sent it to a battery repair company that said it was the BMS and they can't do anything. However the green leds of the BMS light up . strange isn't it ? Do you think you can do something ? regards. Eric.
Hi. Excuse me, can you help me.I have Error 640 on my Intuvia. Speedometer showing 0 for 2 seconds and shut down with error 640. I had seen no water damage. 4 pcs 18650 have 3.2V and other 4.1V. Are they broken? Charging showing all 5 leds green.
Hallo, ich habe gebraucht einen Bosch Powertube 625 gekauft. Er zeigt voll an allerdings WIRD er weder geladen noch von meinem Rad erkannt. Mein Fahrradhändler hat ihn ausgelesen und meint er sei deaktiviert. Wie kann das passieren und kann das rückgängig gemacht werden? Gruß Dirk
Hoi Wim, bedankt voor deze video hoor. Wim ik ben een leek op dit gebied, maar zou je mijn BMS wel willen nakijken? Volgens mij heeft ie geen waterschade.
Hello mine has all the cells at 4.2V, BMS board seems to work for charging and i get 42V from the 10S 18650 black and red wires. But nothing from the output of the BMS to the connector of the battery. Is there any DC DC converter to get 36V from the 10S voltage ? it got be the problem...? Seem like 2 big MOSFET at the output ?
The battery is 30-42 V, no DCDC conversion for the output. The mosfet's are for switching load or charger on/off. The battery needs the correct commands over the CAN-bus to switch the output on.
@@flloriangerard Why do you think the mosfet is dead? It's completely normal that you don't measure any output. If you don't measure any output in the bike, there is probably something else wrong (the MCU won't switch the mosfets if there is anything else wrong). The battery is 10S, so of course the motor is 42 V.
Wim - I have a Powerpack 400 that just stopped working or taking a charge. Shows one light when I press the button, but no flashing occurs when plugged in. Other Powerpacks work just fine on the bike. Can't seem to find anyone in Canada to work on these Powerpacks. Wondering if I can send you the battery and of course pay you to repair it? Can't seem to find you email to send a direct message. Thanks for the consideration and for sharing your expertise.
I have a really strange one with mine, battery pack lights up one light when charger plugged in, but doesn't charge, 5v seems to be working ok, and when I connect the intuvia it doesn't recognise the battery or the charger..... however if I continuity check the + of changer with + of battery it starts to charge and the intuvia starts flashing and shuts off, then if I disconnect the battery and plug it back in intuvia says charging, then shuts off. Also the battery single led doesn't change to two or 3 when the voltage goes up towards 40.5v. It did have water damage and the capacitor between the two MOSFETs next to the + terminals literally just fell off when I was checking for shorts. I'm thinking there's a problem with the actual processor on the board but I'm no expert. I really would like to fix the board purely as a challenge but I'm now lost
That's not a capacitor between the FET's, but a temperature sensor. The BMS won't work without it. There’s a high chance the water caused more damage (corroded via’s, traces, components…).
@@wim4245 I think I will buy a replacement BMS and throw this one away then. Nothing looks corroded but I will imagine that the water short circuit could have damaged some things that I can not see and I don't want to test every component on the board. Do you sell the BMS units?
Hi. could you help. I have Powerpack 500 that drained batteries. I did fix BMS(few minutes) had to replace: Schottky Diode, CAN Transceiver TLE6251-2G, TPS57160 (mine was burned), and LORA. After replacing parts this battery pack started working agin. Then I made mistake to disconnect negative B- wire first. Since then the BMS does not work. When I do 3.7 volt injection only LED #2 and #4 lights up. Any ideas, how can I fix this. THanks
I'm afraid you can't fix this without replacing the CPU. 2 + 4 is an error stored in de the CPU. You cannot erase this (even not with the Bosch dealer software). I don't think it was caused by disconnecting B- first. These boards doesn't seem to be sensitive for wrong disconnect procedure. I would think there was an another problem, but it's strange that it worked for a moment after repair. Edit: LED 2 + 4 can be repairable (depending on what the cause is). After repair, the error has to be cleared with Bosch diagnostic tool
salve wim ho una powerpack 500 bosch che non so come ma per tentare di fare la modifica per extender si e' danneggiato il bms e ora non si accende niente neanche i led
@@wim4245 Super ! Many thanks for the quick reply. I ordered the replacement part. let's see if I can bring the BMS back to life. Greetings from Chemnitz too.
bonjour , je suis dans le même cas, ma batterie Powerback400 n'affiche plus rien . je me suis permis d'ouvrir le Pack et après vérification des tensions par élément, la batterie possède une tension globale de 39v et de ce fait est donc bien chargée. Je mets donc en doute le Bms . Pourriez vous m'indiquer le point de contrôle pour la tension de 5v . Serait-elle mesurée aux bornes de la diode que vous remplacez Merci par avance pour la suite que vous voudrez bien me consacrer. Si cettte intervention me permettait d'éviter le remplacement du pack , je serais bien heureux! Merci par avance! et bonnes fêtes de fin d'année !
5 V could be measured at the blue coil (side that is attached to the two capacitors. 5 V is active (for at least a few seconds) after connecting power or pressing the button.
Can you also unlock BMS? It happens to some Bosch battery after replacing cells? I refurbish a lot of batteries, so it would be good to find someone that can do that :-)
Hallo Wim, ik heb je een mailtje gestuurd over een bms van een Bosch classic accu. Kunnen we hier eens contact over hebben? Bedankt alvast voor de moeite.
Hi Wim, I have a Bosh Powerpack battery that fall down and it's no more working. I think it is the bms that orobably got damaged. Can I send to you the battery or just the bms if you want. Please send me a contact. Thanks ! Stefano
@@wim4245 Thank you so much. I have a 300 powerpack. That has one light on, it will start charging and then stop after a few seconds. The cells seems to be around 40V in total on the output. And they all seems balanced. It wont power on a ebike either, so no discharge or charge. Could replacing that chip maybe fix it? Have seen some other videos that if it wont charge it could be a short in that chip you also replaced. And if it wont discharge it can also be the temp sensor?
@@bryde4985 The diode isn't your problem. The cells are probably unbalanced, or there is a defective celgroup. Measure each cell group. The voltages should be the same.
@@wim4245 I have measured the group several times. They all seems to be just around 10V each. And adding up nicely to the total voltage pack around 40,4V. Can also be that I don't measure the groups correctly. It's hard to get the probes into all the seperate groups without taking the whole thing apart. You have any good suggestions to what I can try?
@@bryde4985 There are 10 groups (of 4 cells) that each should be between 3 and 4,2 V. The voltage needs to be the same for the 10 groups (if the difference is more than 0,1 V, they are pretty unbalanced). I don't know how you managed to measure 4 groups of 10 V.
Depends on what the problem is. I don’t have many parts for them in stock, since they are becoming pretty rare. The older they get, the less interesting to repair (the cells also degrade).
Beste Wim, heb een Bosch accu die geen snelheid meer aangeeft en geen ondersteuning met fietsen. Wat gaat het kosten op dit te repareren? Hoor het graag. Met vriendelijke groet, Hans Leende
