First time I've ever commented on one of these videos, because it was a lifesaver. Exactly what I needed. For reference, I have the HDI7282U, with the ceramic top beneath the gas burners, and everything was pretty much the same. One visible difference is the male igniters in my unit were factory bent into an L shape, but the replacement part (from Amazon and reportedly compatible with my model) was straight up and down, as shown on this video. I simply bent it into an L and it worked fine. After reading warnings from others, I used penetrating oil on the burner screws AND went out and bought a new Torx head (only T-20 needed on this model) to be sure it had sharp edges - a couple bucks well spent to avoid stripping anything. Screws came out the next day with no problem, and I also had no issue with the tiny igniter screw (didn't need penetrant on those). Really only two issues: 1) the burner seals are cardboard and crumble easily if you try to clean them, as I found out the hard way - a $35 replacement piece of cardboard, oops; 2) for some reason, the new ignitor didn't work for me upon first install, so to troubleshoot, I swapped the new one with one of the original three that I knew still worked. And for whatever reason, the new one worked this time, as did the swapped one. So I'm not sure what I did wrong the first time around, but the reinstall went fine. One thing that helped me with testing - there was no reason to unplug the control board. Just let it rest straight up and down, with the bottom sitting on the oven floor and the door mostly closed, and the wires will have no tension. That enabled me to test the ignitors without reassembling anything, and just laying the burner caps in place to test.
As others have said, we also had an issue with the screw that holds the electrode in place--it was welded in place--no amount of liquid wrench or tapping the screw would loosen it. We got it out by up breaking off the old electrode, as someone else did, and twisting the metal bracket around until we got that off completely, leaving a slight gap between the screw head and the metal plate. Then, using vice grips, we were able to grip the screw head enough to twist it out. I did have to go into our misc. screw bin to find a replacement screw, but found one that worked no problem. Also, in order to prevent the torx screws up top from sheering off, we did spray them with the liquid wrench type stuff and carefully twisted. So all went well and this video was helpful to show the steps involved. Thanks for making it!
Excellent step by step video! My replacement went fine except for the screw holding the electrode in place, which was very difficult to remove. Ultimately decided to break the bad electrode into pieces and penetrating oil got it out.
Some of the torx screws on my stove (HGS 7052) sheered or rounded right off. The philip screw that held the broken electrode rounded. If your screws look really rusted, then I would caution taking them off. You can try penetrating oil first but I don't think it will help. Note that you may need T25 and T20 torx. On my model, it used both. I gave up trying to replace the electrode due to those issues. I guess I'll continue to use a candle lighter to start my stove.
I was puzzled by your futzing with the plug on the ignitor wire at ~4:40 on the video til I had to remove mine and realized there is a spring catch on the female end of the plug that when moved with your fingernail as you demonstrate that makes removal of the male part easier. They do not easily come apart otherwise. Second comment: on mine the phillips head screw for the bad ignitor would NOT come loose, eventually after multiple attempts the head buggered up and I elected to try drilling it out. I suspect the screw is stainless as it definitely work hardened under drilling pressure and I dulled 4 new drill bits in the attempt. Finally dremelled the head off (tried slotting but that failed as well). Since there is an adjacent hole, I tapped this 6-32 and tried that but this moves the ignitor to
Third comment: during my efforts to remove the phillips head a lot of downward pressure on the screw will eventually slightly bend the whole under stove top casting assembly down as it is ultimately held by sheet metal.
Excellent, very helpful and clear video. We have exactly the same cooker and one of the burners does not come on. When you turn on it start clicking, but never ignites. Could you please let me where to get the part? I should with the help of your video be able to change the part. Thanks.
Hello people. Video did not explain how to undo the screw holding the Firing electrodes. Because of Heat most of them were welded shut. Please use WD 40 or Deep creep and let it sit for quite some time then try to loosen up by twisting back and forth. Philip screw driver has to be exact other wise the screw head will strip.There's little ledge on the side of the screw holder plate which will prevent screw opening if using a bigger drill bit. Please use exact drill bit. We had to use the grinder to make the screw head flat and on e opened after lubing it. 2nd head broke and I had to drill and put new threads on it. This step took the longest. 3/32nd titanium drill bit needed. Had to buy new screw as will. Good Luck.
谢 谢 (Xie, Xie. Thanks, Thanks.) For the video & informative replies. 无声胜有声(Wu sing sing you sing; No voice better then with noise). Thank you. I fixed it.
Can anyone explain why Bosch used screw that rust? The stove is stainless steel, yet they manufactured a critical component with screw ( which rust shut) that would eventually need to be removed? I notice on the video the screws were in perfect shape? How EXPENSIVE would stainless steel screws cost?
Great. I do have same model. Two front burners are not lighting. I need to change switch like you did. I have problem with the front panel knobs. Two of them are loose not holding. Bosch charged me $32 a piece. My Range is only three years old. Can you help me. Thanks
I have the same unit. The ignition on the central burner doesn’t ignite but rather keeps clicking half of the time. What is the part number? Do I need to take to rope plate off completely?
The easy to access screws were all torx heads but the screw that's difficult to reach is a phillips head. To make matters worse, no real pressure can be applied to ensure the phillips head doesn't strip. How stupid!!!
Thanks for the video. I have the same Bosch stove. One of my burners continues to spark even after the flame has been ignited. Do you think I would I have to replace the ignition electrode or do you think it may be the spark module?
You are welcome. You would need torx and philips screwdriver bits. No special tricks, but pull the range carefully since there is power cable and gas flex pipe behind it. May pull a bit and check what is the length of those.
I’m trying to do this, but the screw heads on the burners keep snapping off. If I take them all out (and presumably they all snap off), is there a way to remove the igniter assembly and drill out the screws?
I have not experienced with all screws snapped off, I have only one and left it that way. You probably can drill them out, but I guess you would need to remove the jet assembly as the support of that thing is week for punching and drilling (you may see a jet assembly with tube in the video 6:00 time). If you remove it then maybe easier is just to replace that part all together.
@@sethgirardin4962 where did you purchase the stainless steel replacement screws? I'd like replace the screws with the stainless steel ones. Two of the screws are badly rusted and I can't remove those. Thanks!
I found parts on Bosch website, where I entered my gas range model. www.bosch-home.com/us/store/service/cleaners-accessories/spare-parts Then google the part. I got my part from www.virginiaservicesupply.com/
B/S/H home appliances Corp I have been having issues with them. I purchased 3 new Tube RF LF Center (jet assembly (tubing, 1.69 orifice, compression nut, electrode, shutter screws) The screws that are used to hold down the burners are not included and cost around $18. each for zinc screws REALLY. Furthermore the receptor of the screw (what you screw the zinc screw into is not threaded, no wonder why they cannot be removed. It get better the screws that hold the ignitor electrode in places were striped so they cannot be removed. DO NOT BUY BOSCH German engineering made with cheap People's Republic of China parts.
