That is some impressive work. I have a couple of V12 engines laying around, I always thought it would be a cool project to place one of those V12's in an Apache truck. I have some Cadillac 500 engines and put one of them in a Jag. Most would say that I should put one of those in the Apache instead, but the V12 would be a more unique project. Lotta work though and the wife wants me to stop with these projects.
Extremely impressive sir. You are a true craftsman. The small details, the fit and finish is amazing. I learn a lot from this video so thank you for sharing. You gained another subscriber for sure
If you can’t find pickled and oiled steel you can always use muriatic acid you’ll just need to find a plastic tub or container to immerse the steel, it takes about 10 minutes. Be sure you do it outside with plenty of ventilation the gases are not good to breathe. Take the steel out and rinse it in water and baking soda to neutralize the acid, after that you’ve got nice clean steel. If you want to shine it up I use 80 grit sand paper on my random orbital sander, real nice finish. As far as the frame question I use a adjustable square on the top of the frame to mark the lower part that I need to cut off. I use 3 inch cut off wheel on my die grinder, makes quick work of the trimming.
My frame has areas where the bottom flange is wider than the top flange, did you cut down those areas so both top and bottom flanges were the same? I also heard in one video that you use hot rolled pickled and oiled steel, I can't get this material in my area. What is my next best option? All of your steel is clean and bright, no rust or paint, how do you get steel that almost looks like cold rolled? I have used a product from Eastwood Products called Fast Etch after blast cleaning and it works pretty good at preserving the clean rust free surface. Thanks for the videos, you have inspired me to raise my quality of fabrication. I have been in the steel fabrication business all of my life but have not done much actual fabrication.
Nice work Steve. Everything is so nice and clean.. You do nice welding. I wish I was even 1/2 as good. I get by, but my welds are always high. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Rick, I'm getting my first project truck on Monday! It's a '51 GMC half ton. I'm located here in Rathdrum, and was hoping to touch base with you when I have complex fab / automotive questions.I've benefits watched your videos on your '53 and you seem like a knowledgeable guy.
Looking awesome! I couldn't tell I'd that was a 4l60 or 4l80 trans but I'm working on a 51 and it came to me with the kit for under the cab. My concern is the space between the booster and the 4l80 I'm using.. I haven't got it back yet bur seeing your video I was wondering If you'd run into an't issues. Thank you!
Tim the transmission that I have is the 4L70e I believe it’s almost identical to the one that you’re looking at. I tried to put the booster under the cab but there wasn’t enough room for the exhaust. The exhaust would have to run below the booster and I didn’t want it that low. I decided to put the booster and master cylinder on the firewall. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Tim I forgot to mention I just posted a video mounting my master cylinder and booster on the firewall, check it out I think it might answer a lot of your questions
Thanks for the comment Brad I put a 9 inch Ford axle in the truck 350 gears with posit traction I didn’t C notch it because I didn’t plan on slamming it to the ground I think that looks cool but I’m doing more of a daily driver resto mod look I believe I have about 3 1/2 inches till I hit the bump stop.
Rafael Sanchez It’s a TCI 4 link setup, it’s pretty stout, DOM tubing and high end helm joints. the diagonal bar doesn’t have to be as large, its job is to keep the differential centered in the frame. The four links are plenty stout. I hope that helps.
It’s a TCI 4 link set up. DOM tubing, and high end heim joints. the diagonal bar is smaller but its job is just to keep the differential centered in the frame, I hope that helps Rafael
@@idahofabricator8710 I dont know looks like it's made of pretty thin material. Compare to other 4 links on the market should be a intrested to see if holds with that LS engine
I like your explanation thank you, I have an a model chassis, I was thinking of doing the frame . The chassis needs to be welded by a tradesman it’s the rule here in Australia, that’s ok , I’ll tack weld in brackets etc but it’s the rear end as people say I need to z the rear for a lower look , as a hobbiest this is the area I’m unsure about so if you have done this before and have any ideas I would appreciate any input thanks Harry
Hi Adam I couldn’t bend that tight either so I bought it from a company called Art Morrison in Tacoma Washington it was not very expensive, you can buy it in a half loop or a full loop nice company to deal with
I'm in the process of boxing the frame for my 37 Chev PU. I'm only doing 3 feet from the front radiator mount to 5" behind the front cab bolt. I figure I'll put a hole in the boxing to reach the cab bolt. Why did you box the whole frame? Where did you get your Trans mount?
Hi Adam I couldn’t bend it that tight myself so I bought a tubular half loop from art Morrison.com the part number is 33330125 , it was 35 bucks not a bad deal, nice tight radius and the tubing is sized so it fits perfectly with 2 x 4 rectangular tubing.
Hey Steve. Love your videos. Im doing a 51 chevy shortbox. Ive got my frame stripped and nearly ready to box. Youve come to a lot of the junctions that I will face and I have a few questions I hope you have time for. Curious how you boxed the frame and mounted the 4 link with bolts. How do you get at the nuts? Ive been struggling with what to keep rivited on and box over and what I should be welding onto the frame. Also, what did you use to fill all the rivit holes in the frame? Good stuff. Keep up the awesome videos!
Michael here’s what I did the first thing was I took all of the unnecessary brackets off the frame then I put the frame on for jackstands the six-ton variety so I could get the frame higher off the ground used door shims to level the frame front to back and to side to side. I used the front core support crossmember and the rear crossmember and found the centerpoint I used a center punch to mark the crossmembers I didn’t want to use felt marker that could possibly rub off. I used some fluorescent colored construction twine and stretched it from front to back lining it up with a center punch marks pulled it really tight that way I had a good visual look at where the center line was all the way down the frame. I marked the new front end crossmember Centerpoint and then I used a plumbob to fit it into the frame and get it centered using the string as a reference point. I hope this helps let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks so much for responding to me I will try this with the guy that's helping with the mustang 2 front end. Do you think that using the bump stop location or the point of removing the shocks on a 1951 ford truck will help out in the location.
@@michaellane8294 I put the cab on the frame and mounted the fender to the cab and I put my front end suspension where it look the best in the fender opening this is the point where you can really dial in how your truck looks for example in the rear on my Chevy the factory puts the tire forward in the wheel well opening I really didn’t look right so I moved the centerpoint of the rear tire about an inch and a half toward the back centering it in the wheel well opening I know it’s a little extra work but take the time to mock up your tires in the wheel wells and make sure it looks the way you want it to look you can always adjust your driveshaft length later
Are you going to weld up the holes in the very front frame rails that the factory suspension mounted to? I see you haven't done it yet. I didn't do mine either but figure I would ask in case I am missing something. Great work Thank you!
Adam T If you’re talking about those three holes in the front frame rails those are for the bumper brackets, I welded some threaded inserts on the inside so I can just bolt on bumper brackets without having to get a wrench and fiddle for a nut on the inside.
Hello, I have a 49 and a 50 3100. The bottom lip of the frame extends farther inward than the top lip of the frame rail. Did you need to cut the bottom lip to make it 90 degrees with the top? Thank you very much
Adam I did have to cut the bottom frame I used an adjustable square and scribed a mark on the lower frame rail and then I just used a cut off wheel and took my time. I used a flat file diagonally to clean up the cut
Scott 20 gauge is really light (.0359). what’s the thickness of the frame on the 34 Hudson i’m guessing it’s at least 1/8 inch (.125) more likely 3/16 (.188) my recommendation is the boxing plate should be around the same thickness as the frame rails that will give you your most rigidity and strength. Plus you’ll be able to mount brackets and tabs whatever you need to the inside of the frame for exhaust hangers and all kinds of stuff.