Love ur videos great `attention to detail and super quality workmanship how do u stop body metal from rusting as u continue to build such great quality build
Just found your video's! Wish I had seen them two years ago. I am building a 1953 5 window for a friend who is a navy veteran. He is a graduate of Annapolis and a nuclear engineer who served on submarines in the Navy, he is now suffering with Parkinson. Our project started with parts from two truck, one was a 47-51 truck and the other was a 52-early 55 and we only had some of the parts from both. We had a lot of those parts that were not usable. The first order of business was to disassemble and determine what was usable and what was not. A lot of the parts were already disassembled so I did not have the benefit of seeing a completely assembled truck. I hope I can complete this project before my friend is not physically able to enjoy his truck. His Parkinson is advancing quickly. I am trying to do a quality build like i see in your video's. Thank You So Much for your example!
You have inspired me to raise the standard of quality. I am trying to build a top rated 53. Love your shop and tools and the way you have organized everything. I have viewed most of your videos already. I would give you an academy award for your presentation. I only have one request, I am an old guy, 1950 model, and I find the intro music much louder than the video sound. My wife yell's at me to turn the sound down. Please keep them coming!!!!!!!!!!! @@idahofabricator8710
This is great content! I just starting working on a 1950 chevy 3100 5 window. I am 20 years old and just starting to get into working on vehicles, these videos help with tips and ideas for my truck, thank you.
A long time ago I put a 283 in a ‘53 3600. I used a 7qt. circle track oil pan. This gave me stock transmission and radiator location, good ground clearance, and good real world oil control in combination with a windage tray. If you use a 292 six, you have to move the radiator forward. Next time I think I will use a Jaguar six. Using a V8 in one of these is too much like reinventing the wheel. Have fun.
No I’m OK man I’ve been real busy working on the property a lot of downed trees and also I went to see my son in Tennessee he lives in Clarksville right next to Fort Campbell home of the screaming eagles. Went to the LS fest in Bowling Green Kentucky that was super cool. I am going to get busy here pretty soon and put some more content out. I appreciate your concern and I’ll get busy on some videos real soon I also started an Instagram account for Idaho fabricator.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge in your experience I'm building a 52 and plan on putting an LS in it as well but I have 1988 S10 frame any and all information and measurements would be appreciated I have subscribed to you and will be watching all of your build thanks again keep up the good work
Hi love your channel you do awesome work , and you have inspired me to start one of my own lol . so I’ve picked up a 1951 Chevy Truck . I do have a question for you , where did you get your transmission tunnel cover from ?
this is awsam..im going to do the same this for my self.soon. i have done Ls1 on this b4 and no much clerence between water pump and fan. ls2 has shorter water pump. wish u good luck .. are you based in Australia..?
@@idahofabricator8710 did you need to do a firewall work or is it still in factory position . I realize you had to cut for the transmission but didn’t notice if you had recess the fire wall to fit the LS ?
@@bryangee9609 I used the original firewall it has a little indent for the factory 6, the Ls motor fits OK in hindsight I probably should have put a little little larger notch in the firewall so I would have more clearance for the radiator, I made it work by moving the radiator forward inside the core support and gained 2 inches.
Hey I got the radiator from a company called PRC stands for Performance rod and custom, it’s the same size dimensionally as the original radiator but it is twice as thick, they sized the filler necks to match the LS motor and bungs for the temp sensor and steam vent. I paid about $800 for it with the Spal cooling fan and shroud.
I don’t have an exact date right now I’m trying to wrap up any welding and bracketing on the frame itself then I’m going to tear it down pint the frame and install all the suspension after I paint and detail it and I’ll have a complete rolling chassis it’ll be on to the interior, finish up the bodywork, and wiring. And I need to spread out cost of parts by doing side jobs.
Thanks for the comment Jim, I got them from a website called tin man fabrication I like them a lot better than the ones made by Holley and all the other outfits they’re very substantial polyurethane motor mounts. I had to make the frame tabs to fit my frame. I used 1/4 inch steel to make the tabs.
