Hello Matti, I find your videos informative and a style of presentation that one can follow. Others center on the presenter and not the subject. Your explanations are well done. You contributed a lot to my improving my photography. If you are ever in Toronto, Canada please inform and be my guest for some activity. Thanks again.
Very nice tutorial, Matti! I have had my lumix G9 for only a few months and your videos have helped me a lot understanding the many options of my camera. I already adopted the back button focusing technique influenced by one of your videos. That was a big change for me after 30 years of using shutter button focusing. As to bracketing, I regularly use the exposure bracketing but have never used the other options. I do landscape and wildlife photography. After this video, I see where focus and aperture bracketing will be useful tools to enhance my photography. Many thanks, Thomas
A useful and very comprehensive discussion. I’ve never used anything other than exposure bracketing, so I never really considered the others. As they are pretty specialized, I know they are there ... but I don’t think I really need them. Other’s mileage may vary, so this may help you if you have never thought it through.
As a raw shooter, I use exposure, aperture, and sometimes focus bracketing. I set my G9's rear control dial's Fn16 button mode to show the bracketing settings (much better than menu diving), and the dial itself is set to adjust exposure compensation, since I use compensation frequently.
Thanks. 4 years with Lumix cameras and I have barely explored the Bracketing options. My next try will be focus stacking using a macro lense (if I can find a cool bug to try it on). May have to wait for spring, and just practice on jewelry.
I was using -/0/+ as it seemed logical. But then I changed to 0/-/+ so that if there's significant movement you can just use the first one, which is correctly exposed & is at the correct moment for your composition, ditching the other two. Hope that makes sense.
Lumix should actually promote u more as u happen to be the best teacher of their systems on youtube. Others just rush through their subject without bothering if the matter is being presented in an understandable way.Whereas Ur slow way of explaining omplicated subjects is a real boon.
Nice explanation, but I am not sure you understand the sequence settings. You refer to it as an order but that is not actually what it is about. For example in focus bracketing when you select sequence 0/+, it means, what you are focusing on right now is the starting point and the camera will focus only further away. On the other hand, 0/-/+ means what are you focusing on right now will be in the middle of the whole focused area. So for example if you want to take a picture of a tiny flower and it is difficult to focus on the nearest petals, just focus on the anthers and use the 0/-/+ sequence. If you select 100 steps, you make sure 50 steps before and 50 steps after the area you are focusing on right now are in focus too. The same kinda goes with exposure. It is not only the order. If your current exposure is 0Ev and you select sequence mode to 0/-/+, it will take pictures with exposure of 0, -1 and +1 Ev. But if you used -/0/+ the camera would take pictures of 0, +1 and +2 exposure. At least this is how it works on my G9, so rather than an order it defines the starting point. If it was just about the order it would honestly have no value to any photographer. Because as you said, having photos ordered in unlogical order for a purpose doesn't make any sence. You simply tell the camera if your starting point for the current bracketing mode is set to the middle (0) or to the lowest (-) / highest (+) value.
Nice tutorial! It's a pity that Focus bracketing options are a bit counter-intuitive. Instead of blindly setting steps, the best procedure, used in other brands, would be to set near point and far point with magnification and then choose how many pictures in that distance. This way one has a visual understanding of the area covered, before the camera starts shooting.
I suspect -/0/+ focus bracketting convers the cases where you aren't focussed on the leading edge of, say, a flower. I would choose that every time. My Olympus cameras are picky bout lens choice, I think that's so the camera can correct for any little imperfections. Focus breathing perhaps, I got some very strange results the first time I tried focus bracketting a macro shot. I am here to see whether Lumix cameras are picky too. I guess I should just put my Sigma 180mm F2.8 EF plus adaptor and see what happens. As I recall, Olympus also allows a delay between shots to allow flash to recharge. It's not something I have tried, but I think it's a serious deficiency in the Panasonic implementation. Canon has the MP-E 65 lens. It does not focus at all, nor is it (or Canon DSLR bodies) stabilised. Nonetheless, Australian photographers do do hand-held focus bracketting up to a dozen shots at high magnifications. The lens covers 1x to 5x, and it's the sort of thing you need to photograph peacock spiders. There's a handful of videos on RU-vid.
Excellent review: Question, for focus bracketing using a flash, can I get a shutter delay between shots to make sure my flash recycles. Thanks in advance.
Thanks. I'm afraid I don't know if that is possible. I'm not an ambassador any more and I don't have any special contacts that I could ask. I should be easy enough to test.
Dear Matti, I have seen your blog and I'm impressed. THX for the information, well worth. Just to explain my question: I have a DC-S1R with standard kit lens 24-105 mm (recently). I want to use Focus Bracketing. Settings are clear to me and results nice. But: How is the algorithm/settings working? Preferable would be to set start and stop of focus travel and # steps (incremental). For S1R it is only possible to set # steps and start position by camera setting in manual mode (of course) and method of shooting (I use incremental). The only way I have full travel shots is to set # steps to e.g. 100 from focus start position and hope that is sufficient and post analysis to see that I needed only 50. How to overcome this problem? With other words I would know before to shoot the settings and not after experimenting later on. I would appreciate your answer. Thanks in advance, Gerard
Thanks! There is no way to set the focus travel, unfortunately. The only way to do it is like you've been doing. At least I don't know any other way or workaround.
@@mattisulanto Dear Matti, Thanks for your answer. I was afraid to receive what I already thought to be the case. A nice camera and something for Panasonic to improve !
@@mattisulanto thanks for reply, under the Exposure bracketing if I want 3 shot bracket the camera have it on -1/0/+1. If I want to stay on 3 shot bracket can the exposure change to -2/0/+2. Where I have 3 pictures with -2/0/+2. My GH5 does allow me to change the stops myself under 3 shots bracket.
@@sportsfantv1633 I'm sorry but I don't understand. Is that a question? If yes, please use a question mark (?) so I know. It's possible that all cameras don't have the same options in the manu.
Is there any way to shoot 3 frames 2 stops apart? Like -2, 0, +2? It really bugs me to take 5 frames at 1 stop apart when I only need the 3 frames. Shooting all day every day really makes those extra two frames add up, and makes our editors life harder.
I agree, I do a lot of real estate and exposing for windows requires more than -1 stop. I used to use a canon that would give options to set any stops with 3 step bracketing but the s1 is limited unless you choose 5 to 7 steps. I am taking way more pictures than necessary lol.
Great all but I have a big problem, my english is very poor and i do not understand all that you say in english ,because my native language is Spanish.How could i get a translation of this lesson?
Was following you setting up my bracketing on my g9 but when I got to Wb they are both blackened out not allowing me to adjust them. Any ideas of what is causing that to happen?
You have another setting selected that prevents the other one. Unfortunately I can't help you, because I don't know what exact settings you have selected. Also, I don't use the G9 any more and can't double check what the problem might be.
Matt, I have a very important question. Please help. I have somehow landed a gig doing a real estate photo shoot. I won't get into the details, I'll just cut to the chase and ask. How do I have the lumix GH5 do the merging of the 5 bracketed photos I've taken automatically? With out using light room. It's only for the emergency shoot tomorrow. This is my first attempt at using bracketing and I just want to keep it simple for this shoot. Thank You.
First download the manual in Spanish (google it) and if that is not good enough, I suggest you contact someone in your own country and ask them. Maybe a camera dealer, if nothing else. There are about 560 million Spanish speaking people, so I'd imagine there is some info also in Spanish.
LUMIX FZ300 with exposure bracketing in multiple shot with one shutter release mode - can this be made to work with the Image App remote to take exposures when multiple shot has been setup and works directly from the camera? With App remote, I need to take an exposure for each bracket. It is acting as if single shot mode was configured in camera. Also, can this bracketing with multiple shots be done using camera’s Timer?
I discovered that when operating bracketing with burst mode using the camera’s shutter, that shutter button must be held pressed for the entire bracket duration. If not, the multiple exposure icon with B indicator will flash until the shutter has then been held long enough to take all exposures. So the same is true using the remote App. The shutter button in the app must also be pressed on until all exposures are taken. I learned of this from a similar RU-vid tutorial: “Using the Auto Exposure Bracket Mode on the Panasonic FZ200/FZ300/FZ330/FZ1000“
Lastma que este video sea en gringo ya que yo no lo machuco.Talvez alguien me diga como lo podría traducir a español para que me pueda servir. Gracias.
You keep showing off the My Menu, I am jealous, I don't have it on my GX80 :-(. Is that feature present on the GX9? Perhaps at least the GX10 will get it ;-)
@@mattisulanto It's the placement, not the words. By the end, most people will have forgotten the suggestion. TV programs credit the crew at the end. On RU-vid, this should be done, along with sponsors, and is a good time for (preferably) unvoiced asks for like, subscribe, newsletters. I always read the creator's information, I would find out about your newsletter there.
@@oneeyedphotographer On RU-vid, unfortunately, most people don't watch the full video and sometimes if you want their attention, you'll have to do it before the end. That is the same on every channel. You are one of the few who watch until the end. Many thanks for that😀
@@oneeyedphotographer There are many reasons to quit. The video was not what they expected or they got the info they were looking for or something else. Some subscribe at the start because they like the topic of the video. Many quit just before the very end (where the credits etc. would be), because they already got what they were looking for. Sponsors are good for us creators, because they make it possible for us to make content. We put a lot of time and effort into these videos and I don't think it's wrong if we get paid occasionally😀Of course the sponsored content can't compromise the actual message in the video. For example, some of my favorite RU-vidrs are sponsored by Squarespace and they mention the sponsor a couple of times in the video, which to me is totally fine and I'm happy they have a sponsor. Besides, you can always skip the parts you want. Most videos today have time stamps, so it's easy to find the section you are interested in.
@@toivokuparinen4678 That's how it looks. It's a pain, if you do a lot of stacked macro, but then again, if you do it a lot, why not buy a high megapixel camera. If you need more than 20 Mp, that is.
Thanks for the always great content. Do you know why Panasonic doesn't offer -2/0/+2 or -4/-2/0-/+2/+4 which i find good as a starting point for nighttime HDR on my Sony. Thanks Holger
sulantoblog Some people like even numbers, others like odd numbers... it all ends up the same. You need an odd number of choices, no matter what you label them.
