This is what I class as the difference between a fitter and a mechanic. A fitter will find the broken part and fit a new one. A mechanic will strip the part down and replace what the part needs at a fraction of the cost. 👍
Finally a guy who isn't afraid to show how to do this the "old school" way. Even though it can be dangerous for those who don't know what they're doing, Ezrider shows us how! Many Thanks.
Keep a pancake gasket in the truck. Changed them out on the road many times. But we have turned into a throw away country. Everyone wants to replace now days. And so many things we used to rebuild. Now can't even get a rebuilt kit for.
@Ripsaw17 Dennis We used to be lucky on that part. I had a 1999 Truck, that was as clean on the bottom. As most new ones. But the southern states. Found that sinking potato juice. Or what ever it is, they call Brine, and it started destroying everything like up north.
@@grren1782 no but if the parking brake side fails in 3 months and a mechanic that isn't mechanically inclined enough to do anything more than bolt up assemblies comes to look at it he'll definitely say the last mechanic was a hack and did a "patch job" instead of properly fixing it and that's why we're in this position now. He'll end up looking like the hero.
Theses shops don’t even do that these days, they want to put a new can-on there. Great help letting people see the simple way to fix it once they understand how to do it.
Hey man, your channel is a huge help. I had only been driving for a year or so before I got volentold to take over Dad's truck. He had really neglected the care of it, so I'm doing what I can to improve the truck and support him. Thanks for helping me make a dollar go a little further.
It always looks so much easier watching other people do it than when it’s cold and you’re in a gravel lot and drop shit everywhere because your hands don’t want to work.
I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for suppying these repair videos. I am not a mechanic, but I have been trying to do some small repairs on my 96 kw t 800 dump truck. Your channel has helped me to gain confidence in trying to do some repairs and I have been been able to fix problems with the help of your channel.
I'm 44 an became disabled about 9 years ago and had to stop working. I was a tow truck driver in Nashville Tn (towed all from cars to over the road trucks) but on the down time I wrench in our trucks and miss it so much. Just thought I'd say I really enjoy watching your video's cause it brings back old memories . keep up the good work.
Keeping em on the road killer! I worked on Army trucks for 20 years and the chassis are exactly the same as any commercial truck. You do what needs doing to get the job done. Luv the channel!
What’s funny is I introduced your videos to my boss (who can fix anything), and now when he needs me to fix something, he just forwards your videos to me and says, “Do this!”
Thanks a lot brother great video learning a lot bless up keep videos coming gaining a lot of knowledge from your videos and I am planning to become a certified diesel technician and get my cdl and become a owner operator God bless
We used to have one of the ones you could disassemble where we cut the spring with the torch to freak people out. A guy I worked with took it to the parts house and asked the guy how to replace the diaphragm. He had the clamp off, but couldn’t figure out how to get it apart. All the guys dove behind the counter when they saw what he had sat on the counter. 🤣🤣
Step one should have been apply park brake or foot pedal and vise grip the push rod so the service side spring is applied allowing easier service diaphragm installation and tension off service spring, then cage bolt, then clamp remove.. works like a charm ASE Certified heavy truck and bus.
Release brakes and back off the slack adjuster until it just starts to pull the push rod. The piston plate will help hold the diaphragm in place as you reassemble the can. If been doing this since 1970
Yup been doing this for a while lol 😂 props to u for showing it I gotta do some of theses on my channel just don’t have that much time running day and night every week God bless
i replaced the pancake diaphragm on both sides in under the hour for a beginner and with your help that was amazing. I feel like charging people for this service now 😅
Well in my day we where machinics fixed just about anything you could fix ...but now everyone is a fitter technician because all they do is fit parts ...can save a lot of money by fixing stuff to easey to throw new parts on but sometimes you have no choice ...you see today to many things where you have to buy the whole unit where a few dollar part would have fixed it ...awesome video keep ip the good work be nice to see that Pete on the rd
Really appreciate your shared knowledge. I use to be mech inclined back in the day with auto. But semi trucks i been timid, you shown me its really just as simple. So im ordering tools from Snap on now . Air assist Jack Milwaukee fuel 1st on list
Yeah my back ground is mostly automotive as well didn't really start messing with big trucks till I bought my first one. Took me a little while to get comfortable. But it's all just nuts and bolts there just bigger...lol
Thanks so much man! Just the video I needed! Love watching! I know your busy in the spring but I’m anxious for the next big red video! Have a good day brother!
Thanks for the video. I hvae the same impact as well, it even doesn't mind being left outside in the freezing cold after being rained on. It just needs some fignaglinto get back to work LOL.
yeah there pretty good, i normally get about 3 years out of them before they start loosing some umph though, i use it a lot though and my shop air is set at 150psi.
@@Ezrider359Last year I used mine to bust loose the pinion flange nut off a D80 when I couldn't beat it off even using a torch. I'd say this will be the last year for mine after water getting into it and seizing it up, I was shocked I beat on it and got it spinning again, it hadnn't seen oil in a while or that day either LOL. AGain thanks for the vid, I'm new to serving air brakes,even though I'm not dealing with this, it will be healpful on down the road.
Simple rule of thumb I've learned is once those cans begin to rust. I just replace all of them. Saves me the headache of going down the road and one of them going out.
I noticed the side note you mentioned about how cutting the rods on new cans can be a pain in the ass. Over the years, we've noticed most guys screw up cutting them, so now we just replace air cans in pairs. 30/30 LS with welded clevis. Been smooth sailing ever since.
I was more referring to when you have a break can leak when your on the road away from the shop working with just basic hand tools pancake can be done with a cresent wrench and a pair of vice grips in 10mins take you that long just to cut the push rod to length with a hack saw. In the shop it's no big deal
Bro you are really good. Love watching your videos man. I learnt allotta things from ya. I will definitely enjoy working with ya. you are totally different from those shirt & ties mechanic.... Keep the videos coming
Dude!! Im glad i found your page!! I've got a 1984 wanderlodge RV I'm having trouble recovering after a few brake presses I think one of my cans is leaking after looking at your video I'm also chasing down possible air leaks and the prospects of having prospects of having a bad compressor but the dryer looks good seems to be dumping like it's supposed to pressure builds up to about 145 PSI it just takes a while. I'm thinking though that if the diaphragm were leaking I should hear it hissing.
We went with diagramframs even on the spring side years ago but I'm out of the loop but I'd say the grader/logger/sawyer does diagramframs too. Not that much salt here or snow. Thanks pal! A-PLUS!
I used to change the spring brake diaphragms until the parts store told us that they could no longer get insurance to take them apart with a press inside of a cage. I had just changed one at the scale that morning. About 1981.
On the farm this spring I have 3 brake cans to replace. I think 1 of them I will do this way. 2 of the others are 30-30 long strokes, with Meritor ASA adjusters, the 1/4” pin was frozen to the clevis and to the adjuster. Heat got the 1/2” pin out of the clevis, but not the adjuster, it was frozen to the bushing. I hate people who don’t know what anti-seize is!!!
I took my steer axle one apart to replace the diaphragm but it already had a brand new one in it. Don't know if it wasn't seated right but it didn't work for me either when I reassembled it. My can was an OEM from 1988 so I did both sides, full can, despite only the passenger side leaking. Not too sorry to see it go when it's that old. The spring wasn't particularly beautiful anyway.
@ mostly work on my own stuff ill occasionally do some repairs for other people as well but honestly generally don't have the time to take on more work. im located in north dakota
This is what I've been confused about. , im British and the brake cans we have already have the bolt fitted inside. We dont have to insert a bolt to ' cage the spring' we just put a socket on the bolt and start backing it out. We refer to it as 'winding the brakes off' Thanks for this video.
After all is installed the brake should adjust itself when the tractor valve is pushed in? Trying to fix this on the road. Hear the leak and believe its the diaphragm. Dont want to spend all the money on a new brake chamber if i dont have to.
I always put a paint line across all part of the can, that way when putting back together you can line everything back up. You have to watch where the air lines end up, make sure they are not rubbing
nothing wrong with that, a couple degree's off wont really change anything as long as your air lines are happy with there placement. normally i would throw a piggy back on at the same time anyway so drawing a line wouldn't help. but this was just a quick fix with limited time.
The rubber diaphragm Our companey purchases are often to thick at the Ring area. We often have to use large c clamps to press to to pieces together . This was not the case 30 years ago
In reality just replace the can. The park brake springs are almost always broken and is a time bomb before the loose pieces puncture the diaphram. Then is done. Usually 20 miles after replacing the service brake diaphram. Rusty clevis pins always come out with an pneumatic hamer with a 14mm pin.
I watched an episode where you extended a frame on a Peterbuilt. What was the. brand of the drill you used? Did the. drill perform well? Did you use their bits? Thanks
The best advice for someone that has never done this before is to have someone who knows what they are doing help you!!! Because if you run across a older brake chamber that has bolted clamps on both sides and you remove the wrong clamp by accident it has a really good chance of KILLING you or at minimum put you in the hospital for a long time!!!! And if it has bad rust it can also break apart and explode on you when you start messing with it!!
I have a UD2300 tow truck, my left rear chamber is sticky, not release fast enough before I take off at a light or an intersection. Where do you buy the diaphragm?
It takes me about 30 minutes with a torch by myself to replace the whole can I usually find when they get to that point the rest isn't far behind good fix if you are pressed for time tho
seems im always fixing brake cans in some parking lot some where lol seems they never wait till its convenient to start leaking. changing a whole brake can in the shop with a torch and a metal chop saw or grinder isn't a bad job. but in a parking lot with basic hand tools is a whole different story this method hands down in that case witch is why i wanted to make a video showing this way to do it.
