That was a neat trick with the second nut to clear away the burr on the end. Ain't no substitute for experience Gordon! Little tricks like that can save so much time and hassle that's for sure!
this guy gives some good advice !!! Especially on how he gave the knowledge of how to use two nuts before you cut the threads so that you can clean the thread once cut !!! Good man ! thumbs up
Thanks Gordon I've been driving for 10 years and imma be buying first truck next week and you're videos will be a big money saver!!!! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!
You gotta admire the old timer's vernier caliper precision measuring 12:15 , a screwdriver and a thumb, no disrespect intended, these truckers never break down, know their stuff and thats why we owe them a great debt, they keep the economy going rain or shine. Hat off to you mate, from the UK
Its 20 to midnight here in the UK, I'm pleasantly surprised to receive your 'Thank you for watching' message. Thank you for taking the time to send me the message. It was my third vid watching you change brake shoes. All the best. Kind regards from Reading, Berkshire UK
I use damaged aluminum car rims or old steel rims as safety stands. They don't tip, they don't crush, and they work on sand and earth. Thousands of vehicles in salvage yards are stored on old rims. Some 4x4 blocks come in handy too. I gave away my jack stands long ago.
Thank you kindly, Mr. Gordon Robertson DIY, for your great efforts, and for your time. I think the "Induction Innovation" tool is a great help for unscrewing such hard rusted nuts& bolts.
I would love to see a video on were you take the slack adjusters apart and clean them then put them back together because mine doesn't seem to work properly anymore and they're kind of expensive as always thank you Gordon for another great video
I don't have an opportunity to do that now but if you mix me taking off the clevis on this video with the video I did on cleaning the slack adjuster ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-re9ls-LmBCo.html you should be able to do it yourself.
please, please put in the caging bolt to contain that spring in the chamber. if the chamber is rusted thru or you aren't sure what you are doing --- that spring could take your head off. when the park button is pulled, pop the plug on the end of the chamber. the key slot should be centered in the hole. if not, the spring is broken, the chamber needs to be replaced. when the park button is "in"and you hear air escaping around the chamber, the chamber needs to be replaced. have someone step on the brake pedal- if you hear air escaping, the pancake has a hole rubbed in it and the pancake needs to be replaced. incidentally the boss where the fittings screw in, if they are square be sure the new chamber has the same square boss'- they identify a long stroke chamber. you want the same on both ends of the same axel. if there is air leaking on the qrv- quick release valve- (the small one on the frame) it needs to be replaced.,
This guy is danger mouse. I was hoping he would throw one of the wheels under there to be safe but he put his life in the hands of a inadequate 3 ton trolley jack and a bottle jack on a rounded surface.
First name,you are right. Way back in the early 1980s I was changing the diaphragm on one of those chambers.I had the caging bolt installed properly,but the end of the chamber broke allowing the spring to take off at great speed.Spring traveled about 35 feet hit the door of the shop and put a dent in the door.After that I would not change the diaphragm any more just replace the cylinder.
Please exercise extreme care handling these brake/spring chambers. When I served in the military, I heard stories from the mechanics where that spring can travel with great speed and violence up to a quarter mile away or more. Imagine what damage one could sustain from it.
Thanks for watching. Yes if you want to donate, there's a PayPal link on the home page on the lower right corner of the home page picture. I don't know if it shows on a phone or not but it shows on a computer.
Can’t stop thinking of the carnage that can could cause in between his legs!! Highly unlikely but anytime I’m working on or around the cans all I can think of is the people unscrewing the clamps and taking them out!!!
EXACTLEY CORRECT , THERE HAVE BEEN PEOPLE BADLY INJURED WHILE WORKING AROUND , THE BRAKE PODS , NOT KNOWING WHAT THEY WERE DOING , ESPECICIALLY TRYING TO TAKE ONE APART WITH OUT THE PROPER EQUIPTMENT THAT SPRING NEEDS TO BE COMPRESSED AND UNCOMPRESSED WITH THE PROPER APARATUSE , ALWAYS , ALWAYS SAFTEY FIRST , I'M SURE I'M NOT TELLING YOU ANY THING YOU DIDN'T ALREADY KNOW ,. THAT WAS ONE OF THE THINGS THEY TAUGHT US IN TRUCK DRIVEING SCHOOL SOME 45 YEARS AGO NOW , ONE OTHER THING I WANTED TO MENTION BEFORE I GO , JUST CONSTRUCTIVE CRITISIZM , DON'T HAVE A FIT OVER IT , BUT MAN OH MAN I WISH YOU COULD INVEST IN A STEAM CLEANER , OR , A PREASURE WASHER , TIS SO MUCH NICER TO WORK ON A CLEAN VEHICLE ,AND HELPS YOU STAY SOME WHAT CLEANER , A CREEPER KEEPS YOU UP OFF THE GROUND ALSO , AND YES I'M AWARE OF THE FACT THAT IT DOESN'T MAKE IT GO ANY FASTER , LIKE I SAID , I'M PROBABLEY NOT TELLING YOU ANY THING YOU DON'T ALREADY KNOW OR HAVEN'T CONSIDERED ,, WHERE I LIVED THEY HAD A SWIVEL PIPE WITH A HOSE ATTACHED TO THE END OF IT AT THE CAR WASH , THE SAME AS THE ONES IN THE CAR WASH BAYS BUT WAS HIGH ENOUGH THAT YOU COULD DRIVE A TRACTOR UNDERNEATH , AN OPEN OUTSIDE AREA AT THE END OF THE CAR WASH BUILDING , WHEN I WAS IN TOWN COMEING HOME FROM A LONG HAUL , I WOULD GO THERE AND FOR $10.00 DOLLARS IN CHANGE I COULD SOAP THE TRACTOR DOWN AND RINSE IT OFF , IT HAD HOT AND COLD WATER SUPPLY YOU JUST HAD TO SET THE DIAL TO YOUR CHOICE WHILE CLEANING , PLUS USE THEIR VACUM IF I DIDN'T USE MY OWN . THANKS FOR TAKEING THE TIME TO TEACH OTHER'S,,,,,,,,,,,,, KEEP THE SHINEY SIDE UP AND THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN , KEEP TRUCKIN OLD BUDDY GORD , MAY THE GOOD LORD RIDE WITH YOU ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Nice video, question why did you check how far out cleave was out from face of 30/30 I check from inside just in case that spring was bad . then made a tool that goes into one side of chamber to supply air to compress the other end so can put the Jesus bolt in , and turn were the air lines hook up . Thank you for the part about the fegure 8 part were it mounts
I don't do enough of them to know all of the tricks, you can always measure the rods on the other chambers if you want before cutting, they don't need to be exact anyway, within 1/2 an inch is good, as long as you have about 90* when the brake is applied. Thanks for watching.
I am a first time owner of a semi. It is an 07 Mack. I had the frame extended and a dump body added to haul grains and feed for local farms here where I live in NY. Your videos will be a big help to me. The Mack has parking brakes on only one axle. Is that typical? How complicated would it be to change the other drive axle to have parking brake too?
I haven't done that before but I wouldn't be afraid to do it, you would need to change the valve that sends air to the parking brake to release it, unless the original valve has 2 more ports that are capped off, or maybe you can put a couple of "Ts" in the valve to add 2 more air lines and just replace the "30s" with "30-30s" or whatever type of parking brakes you have on the back.
Yes it is typical when pulling trailers, trailers have 4 parking brakes, the bobtail doesn't need 4 but if you're putting a dump bed on then you definitely need 4 parking brakes on your truck.
They are called "Maxi Brakes"(dual axle parking brakes). Service brake relay is usually a 4-port R6 relay valve and the air lines go in the front ports of the brake chambers. Parking brakes are usually a 4-port R12 relay valve and the lines go in the the back port of a 30/30 brake chamber. Follow the lines coming out of the back port of your brake chambers to the park brake relay valve. If the lines are color coded --- Green = Service brakes Red = Park brakes. It should have pipe plugs in the other two ports of the park brake relay. You'll need two lines and two 30/30 chambers($100-$125 if you find the chambers on sale). Look for the "caging bolts" (t-bolts) needed for installation on the bottom of the new chambers. New chambers don't usually come "caged" for safety reasons during shipping.