The brakes on this 2014 Nissan Sentra SR are worn out and looking pretty crusty. Let's throw some parts at it! We also look into the Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake lube and find out if it's safe for caliper slide pins.
This has plagued me. I've taken calipers back off because I put the plastic pin in the wrong spot whilst having zero clues as to its function. Edit: a word
It's anti vibration / rattle so they don't have to machine the bore perfectly (cost savings) for no rattling in the bore can expand and contract a little I've fixed a noise with the brakes just by replacing them on a Mitsubishi caliper had a ton of up and down movement basically same function on Nissan. They only need one because it's redundant the top is connected to the bottom
@@Michael-uo4jj do you know why they are putting them on the top side of the bracket over the bottom and is it better there instead if the opportunity is there?
We have plenty to talk about at nissan other than the placement of that rubber on the pin. Mainly making fun of other techs mistakes and yelling across the shop about it 😂
I thought the flies were in my room, sorry, I was watching Dance Moms, then I saw a nice blue car and now here I am. I never know how that happens. I saw tools and everything. Nice video though.
I used your "Here's your problem lady" line on someone I knew and he said "Do you know Watch Wes Work on RU-vid"? It was at that moment, coffee flew from my lips at mach 7.
I've learned a lot from Wes and Dr. O about doing brakes correctly. My most recent brake job was on a 3/4 ton GMC. Took me 4 hours, because of the wait for turning rotors and 1 wheel hub bearing replacement. Bought the URPLE goo for my brake job. She's lubed now. Rear brakes were just pads. Rotors were still very good. Having a floor jack only and wrestling with heavy tires for this ole man takes time. But I'm glad I have my power tools. My wife seems to think I don't need more tools. Thats when I am the midst of a job, and the new tool makes my day. For instance, the hub bearing press tool. I used it to replace the bearings on a Sienna. If I had rented it, 350 smackers to rent. I had purchased it for 80.00. Used the tool 4 times now. Paid for it's self. Anyway, brakes are wonderful, no more grabbing brakes. Plus I found out the CV axle boot was leaking. I removed the metal retainer. And fixed it. Cleaned all of the remaining grease and it's good. Now to keep and eye on it.
Customer can watch RU-vid and view the Quality brake job she got. Some shops would just replace everything, Wes showed that you can clean and lube parts and save customers money. If I lived close to you, my cars would be sent to you Wes. Thanks for breaking it down so us amateur's can learn. 😊👍🍻 Pray family is well 😊👍
I dont know if its always true in auto shops but I work on heavy equipment and our shop rate last I checked is 180 an hour. In a lot of cases its cheaper to put new parts on than it is to pay the labor to clean and reuse old parts. Not always the case but something to think about when you get a quote to replace parts
@@alexanderzerka8477 I've been in the industry for about 10 years now and I've never seen someone rebuild a caliper. I've talked to some of the old guys about it in the past and even they said they hadn't rebuilt a caliper or wheel cylinder for many years. Don't think the rebuild parts are even that available anymore in most cases, at least not in stock.
@@deankruse8751 absolutely the truth in the HD world sometimes. I've replaced a lot of components because the time to clean them up would far exceed the cost of replacement for the customer.
Wes, you must have incredibly tough skin, a brake job video on RU-vid? Every single viewer here is an expert in that field ... absolutely no one has ever done a brake job video correctly. Thanks for the video.
Did you watch the Mannheim John Deere tractor repair video when Wes was tapping on the valves? I had to watch that several times - the sound and rhythm was just awesome!
I've used the purple goo for many years! Eric is right, there are no problems. He's in NY I am in north east PA. Here is what Permatex says: Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant is a 100% synthetic lubricant containing real ceramic solids for extreme performance under the most critical braking conditions. A purple, non-melting formula, this premium lubricant is Permatex's longest lasting, most temperature resistant way to silence brake noise such as squealing and chattering. Also effective in preventing long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling; excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -65 degrees Fahrenheit to 3000 degrees Fahrenheit. This product assures that critical brake parts remain lubricated throughout brake pad life. Resistant to corrosion and contaminants, it will not wash out. Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber. From special-mission, job-specific lubricants, protectants and dressings, to the rigors of heavy-duty needs, count on Permatex to bring you reliability and problem-solving solutions that extend the life of your equipment.
Yeah, but... there are a lot of claims of slide pin rubber swelling and preventing reinstallation of the pins, and Permatex obviously knows about this from their customer service return message they left for Wes, since they sent him over to a different product for slide pins, and they didn't exactly come out and deny it and say 'that's impossible'
As a former employee of a brake remanufacturer we had to recall thousands of calipers and change out the purple permatex that said on the bottle "safe for rubber" - it was petroleum based and swelled the rubber to the point that the caliper was effectively seized. That was over 7 yrs ago, maybe the formulation has changed from a petroluem base.
Rewatch that segment. "I'm no longer going to use it on the slide pins, instead use the Syl-glyde, but I'll use it up under the hardware or on calipers."
that's what we called then in Ontario Canada in the 50's and 60's they were always fussing or buzzing , and in Winnipeg the street cops wore buffalo coats and looked fuzzy . lol
The last time I lived in Iowa a friend from Oregon came for a visit couldn't believe the color of the dirt. He'd never been away from the west coast and had no idea dirt could be so black.
This was fun to watch Wes. Really enjoying your channel, what with the tractors, four-wheelers, and now crusty brakes, it just keeps getting better and better! You keep up the fine work!
Do not apologize for fan noise. Wednesday I worked under the Sun, on the floor, at 95*F and 80% humidity doing front brakes + 1 caliper and hose on a 2008 Corolla. Good thing cold clean water was always a few steps away but still no fun. I sweated so much that day I didn't have to pee until I got home at the end of the day. Good job, Wes ! 👌🏻😎👍🏻
We were at the lake all this last week. Even out on the boat in the middle of the lake, those black flies ate is alive. Another great video. Brake job is a common and easy job done with standard tools. Thanks for the how to.
I like your work! Great info, and it's just how I would do it too. You do what is needed and keep it safe and going down the road, likely better than the factory did it. Spraying the anti-seize on the hub before the rotors and also before the wheels install is what really sets you above. That is for the next guy's advantage, and you do it anyway. Keep it up. Its an inconvenience if a car doesn't start, but its a disaster if a car doesn't stop.
Another great vid Mr J! Nice to see someone else struggling with rusty crusty crap, I'm always jealous of the guys from warmer climates who have pristine 20yo cars without a spec of rust on the underside.
Im just glad it aint me replacing those brakes, ive had enough of that, bleed screws breaking off, and i had a disk so rusted shut i had to remove the whole hub and cut up the disk, witch made a "easy" job a day work, but it was an 83 car!
Regarding EPDM: Any rubber that comes in contact with brake fluid can be assumed to be EPDM. The main hallmark of that stuff is that it is brake fluid compatible. I think this would apply to most slide pins as well, but no way to be really sure. I'd not be worried as swelling isn't really an issue with the boots - it's a stationary seal.
You're one of only a handful of people that I've ever seen push the piston back into the caliper using a screwdriver. My dad taught me that 20 years ago
Can't stand brands that don't spec rotors with the bolt holes for pressing the rotors off the hubs. Those things are genius, when I worked at a Subaru dealer I kept the two bolts on top of my box, and never found a rotor I couldn't pop off in seconds with my 12v impact.
These little rubber caliper bolt “sleeves” (that's the most common name for these) are anti-rattle devices for the calipers. The sleeve provides additional friction, which prevents the brake caliper from rattling/chattering within the confines of the caliper bracket.
Sil-Glyde is absolutely the bomb for caliper sliders. There are similar products out there, but some of these seem to 'dry out' where Syl Glyde doesn't. Good on you for reaching out to confirm and props to the manufacturer for being forthright.
Sil-glyde is only good to 500F. Breaks get freaks hot! Specialy in hit enviroments. I have had sil-glyde break down & harder in short order. The permatex grease is good to 3,500F
They are actually a very good company. If you ever have trouble, or questions they tend to respond. Unfortunately in today's it often takes a day or so to get a call back though. No matter which company it is.
Yeah, those CVTs are not popular on the used market here in europe. Lots of maintenace, especially those that had the "lifetime fill" of fluid that was never changed.....
Yup, they made the CVT have a lifetime fill on the fluid - you just replace it as part of the transmission swap at 100k miles or when it spews cogs, whichever comes first.
Legend says that little plastic sleeve on the brake slide pin is a secret communication device inserted by the government to find out who hit the brakes first in an accident so they know who’s fault it is... That’s what I’ve always heard Wes 🤷🏻♂️. Or either it senses slight vibrations in the vehicle operators knee. They both sound like such accurate explanations that I can’t really decide which one it is. Awesome video BTW and excellent information about the permatex brake goo too! I haven’t heard any theories on that, but if I do I’ll be sure to pass on the information. 👍🏻
The first is the Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease with Moly, Graphite, and PTFE. The second is Silaramic Brake Grease which is silicone. Both of these products make claims about safe for rubber. But the makeup of the grease is directly related to the rubber it should be used on. There are different rubbers used on automotive braking systems. You will notice other brands that manufacture brake grease will also have a few different flavors. If you look in your owner’s manual for a Toyota/Lexus or Honda/Acura product for example. It will say when lubricating the pins to use a silicone based grease. This is because any other grease will have a negative reaction with the rubber that manufacture is using. If you used our Synthetic Brake and Caliper Grease you could have swelling of that rubber. Because of the compatibility between the product and the rubber. If you look in a GM products owner’s manual (Chevy, GMC, Cadillac, Buick). It will not give you a recommendation unless it has Brembo Brakes. This means you could use either product. Using Silaramic maybe overkill for the application but it will not harm anything. I personally like to use the higher rated product on vehicles that are driven hard or towing. Some of the newer Ford’s use a EPDM rubber in the middle of the pin, if you do not use a silicone based material on it. The rubber will swell and stick the pin and you know what happens from there. So, it is more so the rubber that the manufacturer is using just needs to be paired with the proper grease.
Been watching your vids from quite some time. Love your clever and tidy methods. Your shop is awesome too. What sticks out to me the most though is the sheer amount of rust and corrosion all the vehicles there. I´m not sure where it is, but it looks like a snowy place. You got a challenge there with almost every single nut and bolt you have to break loose. Things are way easier in dryer climates, it is not even fair!!
Great video as usual. Thanks for solving the permatex purple issues. In terms of the caliper pins and the rubber/plastic part on only one of the pins, Eric O briefly spoke of this on one of his brake videos first released about 3 weeks ago and I believe he said that the pin with the rubber/plastic goes on the hole closest to the pavement. I'm not sure of the rationale, (maybe more subjected to water) but took it as gospel. When I clean out the caliper pin holes with a wire brush, I have a set of brushes with the loop cut off and chuck it in a drill. It saves about 45 seconds. Just saying. Kind regards Craig
Man, watching your videos makes me glad I do not live in the rust belt. It's pretty nice to not have to deal with needing to put a perfectly well running vehicle in the crusher or have to fight just to do a brake job.
Thanks for the public service announcement on the purple goo - was going to pick some up after seeing you rockstars using it...glad I procrastinated haha.
Have been using that purple Permatex for years on slide pins and have not had issues. I have two new bottles of it I got the other month and I am using them.
Those glidepins, i allways replace them when changing breakpads on my volvo, i know its not needed but they are very cheap and it comes in a kit with the pads, might as well replace them :) Those flies made me wave my hands at them, wife thought i was crazy haha :) Great video wes, its great to see you work :) Watching from Sweden.
I've been using the same Permatex as you have and had 0 issues with the rubbing and swelling over the past 6 years or so. Eric O. @ South Main uses the Permatex also and hasn't mentioned any issues. Thanks for the Saturday morning video!
Sil-Glyde is made from castor oil, i.e. it's vegetable oil derived hence is safe for rubber. Permatex purple is petroleum base AFAIK. I'd use Permatex Orange if I used permatex brake grease (I don't). I can't get Sil-Glyde at a reasonable price where Iive. I work on my own two Hondas. The service manuals call for 3M silicon paste for slide pins and Honda M77 (same as Dow M77 AFAIK) for everything else on the brake that needs lube. I'v come to use Honda M77, and SuperLube Brake grease for caliper pins in lieu of 3M paste. The SuperLube is a silicone grease with a PTFE additive. It's never failed me, but I only work on my own cars so my experience is very limited.
Excellent info on Permatex products, it is my understanding that EPDM is resistant to mineral based oils, but most rubber is not, so a rather diplomatic answer from Permatex. Rubber is a natural product, so not intolerant to many chemicals, so it's Silicone based lubricants for rubber items. Great vlog, gotta hate that rust 😨. Thanks for sharing, John.
Just did a complete brake job on my '04 Ford E350 van. It only has 45,000 but driving those few miles in a rust-belt state took its toll on the calipers and rotors! If I lived in Texas or further west I probably wouldn't have had to change anything.
Hello Wes it's funny you bring up Eric oh from South Main he is definitely one guy to be respected as far as auto mechanics goes definitely I believe he is a really good mechanic and honest to as you are it was funny you mention him in the video I've heard him talk about the silicone issues before great now I can't are mine apart and clean it out and put something else on it. Love the video as usual you and your family please stay safe stay well and as always God bless
Wes, When I do caliper rebuilds or I have even taken apart a year old Reman that was one that was brought for my Avalon before I had got it. Well on that one it stopped retracting and the brake dragged. I had got some Castrol Red Rubber grease. and used it after I cleaned up the very lightly rusted internals, I mean just a very light surface of very light rust. I was able to coat the original seals and pistons with it and have had no more hang ups. I do rebuild calipers with new seal kits and use rubber grease on the internals of calipers from now on. Re man calipers are just cleaned and assembled dry, so the can rust easily, perhaps even just from sitting on the shelf in the box. The Sil glide is safe for internals also and I have that now as well as the red rubber grease. Some MC repair manuals also show using grease on master cylinders for brake as well as hydraulic master cylinders for clutches and master cylinders. .
I've got the lawns to mow, but I think I will put it off until I finish this Nissan/Datsun brake clip. Those are my priorities this Sunday afternoon. Love Nissans.
Nice video. Glad to see you got a reasonably easy job. The dump truck videos look like they are a pain in the a** to work on. This brake job is the kind I can handle. LOL
I’m told the plastic section on the slide pin is to prevent the calliper locking up when very hot, it allows the bracket to expand enough to stay free. There is only one, because that is all you need to allow for expansion, two would increase the slop in the assembly and lead to squeal or soft pedal.
I used this product last year on my toyota camry and this year i took the pins out to lube them and noticed that o-ring and boot has swelled to the point that i have to replaced them .Now i know why!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for your video
I was glad to see you use a real torque wrench on the lug nuts. Most places use those extensions on their air tools that supposedly tighten to the correct torque. I've never gotten my wheels back with the correct torque using that method. Never.......
Thnx for the info on the permatex. Eric, frm SWG, is using a pink lube. I lookd high n low & cant find. Im a senior who used anti seize for YEARS. Never had probs but I learned it too, is bad for rubber. We used to used liquid ruglyde for mounting tires when I was a teen. I bought silicone gel & use anti on no rubber parts. I own a '19 prius & I jst DID my brakes, no pads were fine, jst cleaned/lubed all parts for the reason that Sentra was. I've heard Prius go 100,000 miles before brakes. I dont want to be fighting them later.😉 GREAT VIDEO! 👋
For years I used generic silicone paste, then under influence from Eric O I switched to Permatex purple, which seems more viscous at room temp. Mostly I was uncertain about high temp performance of silicone paste. However now I see that Permatex purple is hard to find, and Permatex have gone back to silicone for slides after all! Getting hold of information from the company will be challenging, I can understand why they would be reluctant to disclose data that might one day be used against them in a legal sense. I know that Eric's experience over years has been reassuring so I haven't thrown out the purple yet, though it may take some time to go through the whole remaining bottle. I think I'll stop using it for slides but there are plenty of other places where that viscous paste may work fine. Eric uses grease as an antiseize lubricant behind the stainless steel clips holding the pads in place, so maybe there it would work fine. I never quit using antiseize at that site.
I have done so many brake jobs on these at work. Most of them are in similar condition. Most of them get some wire wheel and roloc treatment. I also like to use a surface prep disc on the bolt heads so it actually fits in my socket easier. Crusty Nissans. Also I have used the permetex and have for years on all brake parts. Not had an issue but I switched to sil glyde a couple years ago. Also my shop uses the same rotors. They must be decent. Since I can get them at same cost my shop does I will be putting them on my own car soon. Just a thought to share. I use the brushes like that as well to clean the holes out. I have a spare that I clipped the end off and put it in a drill. Seems to clean well.
I've also had the purple ceramic permatex swell the rubber boots on a Toyota. It still works well for the backs of pads, but I use different stuff for the slide pins
Another great episode but I sure do miss your longer, tougher to diagnose episodes like back in the good ole days. I know the shorter ones must be easier to produce but still.
I didnt read all 737 comments but the wings on the hardware fit into the loops of the squeal tabs , this aids in reducing drag on pad and rotor contact
Great information. I bought the new orange bottle as soon as it was available. Hard to find in my local parts store. I believe O'Reilly's has it for sure. I've started to buy most of my lubricants and other chems from Amazon.
I'm from CT I've been in NC for 13 years what a treat working on cars/trucks here with no rot I don't miss the torch to everything that needs to move haha
