I really like watching you tie Levi! Great video and a great impressionistic fly. That would be a great impression for clinger mayfly nymphs, caddis pupa and larva, and in the appropriate sizes for stoneflies too. That's a great fly to tie anywhere from about a size 14 up through size 8 for the "light colored more robust nymphs in your fly box. Perhaps use P.T. nymphs for the dark colored thinner ones (and yes, a #10 PT nymph is an excellent imitation for a swimming isonychia nymph in both Western and Eastern streams in the fall). With a starting set of those Light and Dark flies, you may never have the perfect imitation but you'll always have something that will work in your fly box as long as you get the right drift or articulation. Way back before bead-heads were introduced in the US, we would be tying Gold-Ribbed Hare's Ear flies which have a similar appearance. They were more complex to tie. We would use some of the short fibers from the base of the ears of a Hare's mask for the tail and the thorax and the lighter and softer hair along the cheeks for the abdomen. Was nice because all the dubbing material was on the one mask. Does anyone still use a hare's mask? Speaking of fibers for the tail, brown partridge feathers will work great for the that fly too if folks can't find (or afford) Coq de' Leon feathers. Nothing quite shimmers like Cog De Leon fibers though. I personally save those to use primarily for the long tails of spinners or no-hackle dry flies because they have no web for such a long area and they are stiff. So only a few feathers tied in a V keeps your spinner floating right side up nicely for a long time. Outside of using the Coq De Leon feathers for the tail, that Bread and Butter fly would easily qualify as a "guide's fly". The definition of a Guide's Fly is something quick and easy to tie with inexpensive materials, that is very effective. When I was teaching the Orvis West Coast Fly-Fishing Schools back in the 80's and 90's, I would tie up crazy numbers of #18 P.T. nymphs because my friend and schools director, Dean Schubert. showed me how to tie a 2-minute version night while tying flies for the next day. I had finished three flies one night at the school and he had finished a dozen. So he showed me how to tie it. I also tie a 2-minute version of a Brassie using muskrat fur for the head instead of peacock herl. We taught our schools on Spring Creeks in CA and OR and those were great imitations of the Baetis nymphs and midge pupae that were found in those spring creeks in massive quantities. You know Levi, all because you did this video, I'm going to have to start tying up that Bread and Butter fly. I can see why someone would call it there "Bread and Butter" for trout fishing.
One other thing. I saw you used Seal-ex for the thorax. Is that the same Seal-ex that originally came from Poul Jorgenson back in the 70's? I bought just about every color of Seal-ex when I bought his book "Salmon Flies" in 1978 when it first came out. I'd only been tying for two years then and trying to find materials for salmon flies was tough, especially the seal fur because fur seals were protected (white baby seals). He came out with that a long-fiber synthetic substitute he called Seal-Ex in just about all the colors you'd need to tie Atlantic Salmon flies. It's texture is very similar to Angora Goat and it is just about as hard to dub. It's one of the few materials I would usually use dubbing wax with. Looked like the stuff you're using has those long fibers but is easier to dub. If I had some rabbit in a suitable color, I'd sometimes mix it with that so I could dub it without using wax on my thread.
Wire sizes are: medium , BR , small , and extra small. for beginner tiers, we can also buy UV hares ear to add a little flash.Counter wrap the wire (opposite of the dubbing).Sealx or semi seal for the collar.
