Break-in your BRUSHED motor for MORE POWER! Veteran racers share their, tips, tricks, and experience 

Just what I've been looking for, thanks for posting.

Thanks for the video. Very interesting and informative

Thank you for posting this.

Super! This has been great to watch, very informative!

Excellent episode as always!

Excellent video gentlemen thank you for all the RC. Educational information

"Come to the dark(brushless) side.’ I almost lose myself, kneel down and take the POWER. A group of jedi revived the belief of the FORCE.

Just subscribed thanks for the wealth of information

I've learned a lot here, teacher. Taking notes.

I did this with all my motors in the mid 90s. Had that same Plano tool box too lol. I remember using those comm cleaning sticks that fit the brush guide.

But really quality information. Very knowledgeable

great tutorial! very informative! especially for those of us who are visual learners. knowing my luck id somehow, someway ride the lightning breaking in my motor.

Great tutorial/discussion. I see people asking about this a lot and this video will save others from having to repeat same discussion over and over hahah.

good video, im gonna add something.... the "motor tuners" also check the internal resistance and or output voltage of each motor i think theres a 10 percent difference within each motor ( thats just manafacturing) so these guys test them all and keep the top 3-5 percent for team drivers or self and u get the rest. good video !!

This is a great video I've needed to know for quite a while I'm an old time RC brushed motor guy we had polishers to polish the armature and the brushes three different compounds and the polisher basically was a pencil eraser but these were modified motors like Joel magic Johnson signature series from 1987 and Trinity monster horsepower 12 t double was the 1987 world champion motor.that moter was fast an 80.00 then_ back into it and back then it was 6 an 7 cell batteries Sony nickel cadmium 1700 milliamp something like that in RC 10 before the stealth trans with a plastic Sprint car body on it with a wing and foam tires which I still got all that stuff but we polished the crap out of the armatures to get the least amount of drag as possible because we wanted to get that battery life as long as we could and pull his most amp as we could. I was getting brand new batteries charging them up taking two car headlights and drain them as fast as you could charge them back up and did this 8 or 10 times to train the battery to get it to dump fast hand filing all the gears and the transmission so those absolutely no drag nowhere this little tricks but we were running on asphalt and it was about 11 or 12 of us together and here I was 19 and most of them were about 25 to 35 Back then we didn't have a speed controllers it was a servo with a wiper switch on a rheostat remember no reverse well now it's nickel metal hydrides and lipo 2s 3s . Well I have several new cars now but I have a Traxxas waterproof XL 5 esc, an XL 5 hv 3s speed controller brushed can I hook it to that old school monster horsepower Trinity motor which has 3 race nights on it or the magic Joel Johnson motor with these new style batteries an speed controller's what's going to happen to these Prestine moters need some advice...I love the hobby just get carried away from time to time I got four electric now brushless and two nitros I love all of them ..

Used to do this myself when racing silver can Tamiya class. Small bit of salt in the water, running it submerged for a bit. Blown out with a compressor after and then lubed with some light machine oil on the bushings. Certainly made a difference

I've used an electric pencil eraser to polish carbon off the com. Another option, you can buy the white drafting erasers and cut them into "sticks" that can reach into the can too. then turn the shaft. Blow it out, spray it out and you're good.

love this! yes we can buy brushless these days but there is something about doing it the old way. I am going to do this on a new Tamiya kit I have and see how much difference it makes. Thank you so much for the info, I really appreciate it

I haven't been around the stock Slash cars/engines much but I assume they are using bushings and not ball bearings and I do know that there was one other trick that a few of us faster guys did that really made a difference. I goofed up and showed that difference at one race and it almost cost me a motor due to a protest and teardown. But we ran four lap trophy dashes for the top four qualifiers out of the heats and were done just before the break to set up the main event orders and our track records were set by the fastest time in the dash. I was TQ in both modified and stock sprint cars and had to start back row in the dash because it was the only race we inverted the qualifying position. I went out and ran the stock dash won it with a new track record and with the same car, motor, and battery rolled back around for the mod dash as it was gonna be a car short as the next fastest car decided to skip the dash and give up a possible point if he won (wouldn't have helped a bit since this was the next to last race in a fourteen race season and I would end up winning all fourteen mains and thirteen of the trophy dashes, and all fourteen heats, in the one dash I clipped the front stretch wall and broke a transmission, I was the last guy still running a Cox car and had to scrounge a gear from my brother who wasn't racing his any more) but I put the same equipment I already had five laps on the battery on the grid and a few giggles were heard because I was still using the same stock class motor and a six cell battery and everyone else had modified motors and seven cell packs. I surprised everyone including me by leading every lap and set a new track record taking a full second off the previous one and it was faster than the one I had just set in the stock class with the same setup. I managed to talk myself out of the protest by saying I already had tires with heat in them and the car was lighter without the extra cell and the track had a little more bite because it was starting to get the slime cleaned off after it was watered before the dashes and since I was down on power that I could run the entire race without lifting and didn't have to swing out against the wall to get a better entry to the turns. It worked and the secret was still intact. The speed tip was making a pretty thin slurry using simi-chrome silver and brass polish mixed with the motor cleaner we used (CRC Brake clean) and put a drop or two on each of the bushings and running the motor on two D cell batteries to get three volts to keep the speed and any chance of arcing from the brushes and would run it until the oil coming out on the shaft was a pretty dark grey or black then immerse the entire thing into a small glass of rubbing alcohol until it ran clear, this usually took around two or three dippings. If then blow it out real good and due the usual water dip for seating the brushes. This little trick polished the bronze oilites and also hardened them to help with drag and on a motor dyno or motors would match one with bearings or on occasion have better rpm. And no one in our crowd that wasn't running my stock motors would ever figure it out but I sure got accused of cheating a lot, I always said that they were sure I was cheating because they knew they were and I was beating them. But waaay back then you could get GE XP-60 batteries and they put out a full two and volts per cell when topped off with ten amps on the charger and would run about a minute and a half using a thirteen turn triple wind on a motor and I could use one for running a full eighty lap race with a stock motor. The trick was put them into a sleeve shrink wrap like the cheap packs came in.

Damn I just broke my motor in dry yesterday, but I didn’t really have a clue what I was doing or why. I’ll have to try clean it and try breaking it in again in water. I’ll remember this for future motors, great video, thank you.

I race the mudboss.. just park your car next to the water, hook the new motor up and drop it into the water. Run 1/4 throttle for 2-3 min. then put in clean water w a drop of dawn in it for 2-3 min... Then clean again. blow out the motor with very light air and use the bushing oil ONLY!.. never anything else, and go race. The idea from day one was/is to true the brushes to the com without causing arcing.

I bought a power supply a couple months ago and have broken in a few motors and it does make a big difference when you get a good one. The amp draw numbers is what I'm still trying to figure out. They were saying that what they had with 4.2 amps at 3 volts was very good. Wish they would have elaborated more on whats good and whats not and at what amp its time to retire it. I also use and have heard most guys that break them in and test them use a break in fan which adds more amp draw due to more resistance.

Would you ever briefly run the motor in reverse, then switch back to forward while breaking in the motor in water? (to help form both edges of each of the commutator segments)

Why is the final test only at 3 volts when the volt of the battery are aroynd 8.4 volts.

How long does the break in process typically take?

What kinda power supply would you guys recommend ,

I want to know is can you do that with any motor and if I don't have a power supply that has that amp draw whatever can I use just the speed control and start it off from there

Your letting out all my secrets I've been doing for about ten or more years. Been racing since late 80's. Not much anyone can show me including what do w/gearbox. Son's street stock slash is constantly being chased. Rarely ever caught. Even when starting last. Motors I do are just has fast as the motor builders. Unless bad from start.

After the motor was broken in under the water, did they just spray the motor out with motor spray?

I bought a car used, can I pull the motor and do the water break in still?

How long does it normally take to break a motor in when in the water

While this is an excellent break in video, I have to make a small correction, he said when asked about distilled water, water is water. That is not true, Distilled water cannot conduct electricity because it does not contain ions while rain water conducts electricity as it contains ions due presence of dissolved salts in it.

How can I make contact with these guys, I would like to speak with one of them about a few things?

I have a UCTRONICS U6229 80W DC buck-boost converter and stabilized power supply will that do the trick?

Where can I purchase that power supply you used? Thanks!

Is this the same for Tamya motors?

' my R/C traxxases models uses 550 motors... R/C tonka truck use 2 kyosho 540 motors... R/C kyosho bliizzard use 2 kyosho 380 motors' R/C models tamiyas uses 540 motors

Hello They mentioned a website to add more info. Just curious which one.

Will Silicone oil or Synthetic 5w-10w motor oil work for bushings and bearings? So you’re breaking in the brushes,not the com,right?

What’s the power supply you used to break in the motor?

Need the name of that power supply . Need one asap

What power supply do you buy for this?

I tried this and after a couple of minutes my current draw dropped (less power) what happened?

33:04 I don't understand why Amp value go down and Voltage value goes up. Voltage goes up because the Amp is limited by the power supply at 5A or 10A, the motor's Power goes up during break-in, amps can't go up further more so voltage goes up. But if Voltage goes up, why does Amps goes down? it should stay to be the max Amp of the power supply. I guess this is a flaw of the power supply, when Amp is saturated, the supply is not stable, the Voltage value can't be trusted. I bought a 15V25A power supply after watch this video. I set the Voltage to control the motor RPM and only let the Amp change to tell me the status. I never set the Voltage too high to saturate the Amp, which I think is more reliable and more accurate. More Amp let you set a higher Voltage which means a higher RPM and faster break-in process. My motor is not Titan 12T. I go 1.5V for 6min, 3.0V for 6min, 4.5V for 6min, 5.0V(my Amp is far from saturated) for 6min. Change water and wash the motor at 3.0V for 1min. If the Amp is growing slow, you need a higher RPM cause the touching area between the commutator and the brush is largerer. You should dig faster with a higher RPM which means a higher voltage should be set on the power supply.

What voltage and amp power supply is required to do this?

I have heard of people using kerosene to break in motors. Has anyone heard the same?

When Running a Stock Race with a HANDOUT Motor and you have NO BREAKIN Time, other than Oiling it, what is your Best Advise to get the most out of that Motor??

Thanks. I wasted so many motors

This video makes me realize how obsolete brushed tech really is.

Or...buy a brushless motor for even more power like everyone else.

I liked the vid. And subscribed before even listening to anything, i knew this is worth it 💪🏼🫶🏼🫶🏼👍🏻