Broncolor 'How To' shoot High Speed Sync flash with a DSLR 

Jason Beaver not quite. Neither Godox, nor Broncolor is the manufacturer for that trigger. 👍

Was thinking same.. Hehehe & I'm not even photographer..

so... not the same effect lmao

can you explain how profoto B1 and air remote trigger can shoot High Speed Sync with DOF please!!!

high speed sync basically allows you to shoot at shutter speeds up to 8000th of a second while still syncing with your flash head, this allows you more control of the ambient light, having control of ambient light and your flash allows you to shoot in the aperture you desire if you know what you're doing... thought high speed sync is not the only solution, you could use ND filters too

You would have needed about a 5 or 6 stop ND filter which would have made it difficult to see through the lens and/or focus. I have done it with an ND before in fact we taught the technique in our courses on our website but that was with just a 3 stop filter.

If you are looking through an SLr or DSLR camera then you are seeing the light through the lens bounced of a mirror though a prism going to your eye, so if you darken that light then you will also darken what your eye is seeing through the viewfinder. It won't matter to the photo but it will make it difficult to view because when you are viewing through the viewfinder you are already looking at it almost at full aperture.

So if you are shooting sports or wildlife with a Canon EF 800mm f/5.6L IS USM it would be difficult to see through this lens and/or focus?

Yes if you put a 4 stop or more ND filter over the lens or in the lens etc as you would be blocking a lot of the light from reaching your eye while you are trying to compose or focus. For example whenever I need to shoot landscape work with an ND filter I will do all the composition, focusing and exposure calculation first and then put the filter on and adjust the exposure by the 4 stops and then take the shot.

If you are shooting with a Mirrorless Camera which is what I shoot with your statement does not apply at all. The EVF on a Mirrorless Camera is displaying what the final image will look like both depth of field and exposure. If you set your flash exposure to F/5.6 you would then set your aperture to F/1.4 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter therefore the exposure did not change, Therefore the light level in the viewfinder will be exactly the same it will not be dimmer, but you will have significantly less depth of field.

Well of course yes in that scenario but you didn't mention EVF or mirrorless cameras at the beginning of your conversation, I'd guess that 95% of professionals are not using EVF cameras.

Hi Eugene, no I didn't adjust the white balance.

LIllyman JPL you are wrong... if you use a trigger system that does not allow HSS your light will not illuminate the entire frame even if the light has HSS capabilities. The camera, the off camera flash and the trigger system need to have HSS capability

Thanks, you are correct, both the trigger and the light need to have HSS in order to get proper exposure, except for the leaf shutter cameras, they can without HSS below 250 fps.

Their transmitters are dirt cheap compared to Profoto, I thought they said €150 at Photokina.

Please see earlier comments as I've answered before.

Hi i've never used pocket wizard. I mostly shoot Medium Format Hasselblad cameras that can sync at any shutter speed. But I didn't get any sync problems or black bands using this trigger and the Siros L with my Canon.

Do you realise these videos are paid for and produced by broncolor lighting company, it is their series? In fairness out of the 15 or more videos that have been produced for this series so far many of them demonstrate techniques that could be applied to a number of lighting brands, which I think is credit to them in providing so many videos that not only create awareness but educate people for free.

Bravo Karl 😉

Some people want to know the brands and exact product so they can know the differences between brands and get right products. There are product placements everywhere. I’d rather know what the exact products high end photographers use then some generic photographer who is always pandering to the lowest price products possible. Products are tools. Sometimes you can’t escape the cost of products.

@@VisualEducationStudio great job sir, yes they are being paid by... but I have a Godoy and probably not as good as your technical knowledge I can do similar things... thank you for teaching...

nd reduces sharpness and can introduce some flares, both use too much power though

There is no evidence that Neutral Density Filters reduce sharpness or create any additional flares. Also the exposure is exactly the same as shooting without the ND filter because if you normally set your flash exposure to F/11 you would then set your aperture to F/2.8 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter therefore the exposure did not change, And no additional flash power was required.

ND filter will make the viewfinder darker and make it more difficult for the autofocus system (less light entering in).

ND filter can lower sharpness and increase flaring. But we talk then mainly from cheap $5 filters. Well made filters from respectful manufacturers filters that cost like $50 the sharpness ain't effected more than 1% (requires to take series of tests charts shots) but flaring is still there if you shoot directly to light source or sun is in frame, and that can be proven, but it can be very slight or medium flaring as addition lens own. And as many mirrorless bodies like Olympus has digital profile of lens, they can remove flare automatically from image, but with filter they can't as optical path had new glass element that wasn't included in profiling and design. And mirrorless cameras doesn't get affected of ND filter as EVF can show viewfinder well even with 10 stop ND filter, that makes DSLR OVF pitch black and requiring to use rear display for live view. Now combine there fast motion and ND filter has its limitations...

The trigger is a re-branded Godox X system trigger. Buy their X1T trigger(I believe there's a newer version as well) along with their TT685(N/C/S) versions for Nikon, Canon or Sony. They support HSS, rear curtain, TTL. Awesome stuff.

The trigger isn't actually a rebranded trigger it uses the same outer case but all the internal electronics have been designed by bron to operate with the bron lighting system.

My bad... by re-branded I meant Broncolor worked with Godox to redesign the X1T to cater to their specs. but for Andrew's requirement the Godox TT685 speedlight system would be optimal.

You don't need it with a medium format such as a Hasselblad as they can sync at any shutter speed anyway because they have a leaf shutter system.

As far as I know the leaf shutter's limit is at 1/1600 s. Am I correct?

Karl Taylor not really any shutter speed, but max 1/1600s on the Phase One and 1/800 on the Hassy

The Hasselblad H6 can sync to 1/2000th of a second. You can watch my test video here www.hasselblad.com/h6d

hasselbladbron.com/documents/broncolor/HScompatibility_122816.pdf

Hi you can use a Para with most lighting systems from other brands as broncolor also sell adaptors

Karl Taylor hi Karl thanks I have the Siros Ls but noticed the rod and bracket are sold separately

Using a trigger without HSS will limit your shutter sync speed to 1/250(Some cameras even 1/200) At this shutter speed, in bright daylight, opening up your aperture will overexpose your image. To expose properly in this case, you’d have to keep your aperture stopped down.

Yeah I think what they are using is the slow flash duration of the unit for the hypersync, I am using the Elinchrom Ranger RX speed AS unit and with the S heads I can get the same effect as Karl but using pocket wizard triggers. Its a bit confusing I'll give you that telling the difference between hypersync and highspeed sync

TTL would be a strange decision in this circumstance, it always varies a little bit and so you get inconsistent lighting. When everything remains constant shot-to-shot manual provides far greater control and reliability, and this is almost certainly what he has done here.

I was already at the lowest ISO. The point of the video is to demonstrate that at a large aperture setting at a (even at a low ISO) you would need a very fast shutter speed in this type of light. As such you generally can't synchronise flash at such high shutter speeds because DSLR's don't sync at high speed, however with this new trigger you can, as well as use these lithium powered lights on location.

It says in the video several times that this is the broncolor lighting system and trigger. Please visit broncolor's website for more details.

I can't heard properly trigger name. pls tell me sir

I haven't used a hand held light meter since the days of film as they are not necessary, I just look at the result and then make a decision on whether the flash needs to go up or down or the ambient needs to go up or down. It really is that simple. I also don't really bother with the cameras light meter because I shoot in manual mode and I already know roughly the exposure that I need to get me in the ballpark and from there I check my test shot and make a decision on what I'm going to set the camera to do to get the result I want. I'm not leaving it to a computer to tell me the result that I want, I can make those decisions for myself.

Thank you sir...big fan of yours...😊

yeah I was wondering how it doesn't fall down. What Stand ?

ManyDoors777 No. The filter would allow you to have the shallow depth of field at a large aperture, but the model would still be silhouetted against the sun. Maybe the best you could hope for would be an experiment with bracketing. But you'd never get the same look, without a separate flash. So it's bracketing, ND filter to allow large aperture, for a shallow depth of field, or this set up. But you'll never replace the light from the flash. I'm a beginner, but that's my input on your question.

i think canon 85mm 1.2

Somewhere about a 40min drive from Basel, I don't know exactly where as I was following Urs in our rental car.

The place is called Metzerlen...

You would have needed about a 5 or 6 stop ND filter which would have made it difficult to see through the lens and/or focus. I have done it with an ND before in fact we taught the technique in our courses on our website but that was with just a 3 stop filter.

If you watch the video you see we bring up the photos full screen with the details as an when is necessary. We do this in all our videos and always have done. It doesn't 'plague' any of our videos, every single example we shoot we show you the shots at the right point when it is necessary to see the results! I think you have not watched the videos with your full attention!

In fact the full screen images come up no less than 6 times at: 3:39, 3:49, 5:26, 5:36, 5:41, 6:52

Yes you have gotten better at it. And in the beginning you actually made a good job on this one by showing the image at f11 in the right place. However, later on in the video you do the same routine you did several years ago and did in your older dvd's by taking images of different settings and not showing the result immediately. In this case, at the end of the shout when you switch between different high speeds and don't show the image's, we are treated to an awkward moment of you enthusiastically saying "look at that" and the viewer frustratingly try to see what you see on the back of your camera. This is not a huge problem, but it is big enough to damage the good flow of the video. Because when you do that you accidentally anger the viewer in to not listening to you since they try to figure out what you had shown. It's good when you show the final image, but as an instructional video it looses quality because you should show as many images as possible, especially the bad ones, since they show the work you go through in order to reach your final image. So a good rule of thumb here is: 1. When you hear the shutter click on an image you will try to show in the back of your camera or at least have something to break up a long shoot, show that image, even if its not the best, 2. Unless you are filming Birdman, don't use shots that are longer than 20 sec. If you are going to do that you have to make sure they are very dynamic and have something happening in them all the time. Yet again, I wont criticise you as a photographer, but with a few simple tricks you can make yore videos a lot more dynamic and interesting.

Hi Mattyy the final result shots are at 1/8000th

Hi Harald, from our perspective if 6 example images during a 7minute video isn't enough then we don't know what is. We also believe that if we have to keep throwing up every image we shoot in a batch that it would break up the flow of the video and what is actually being taught. Our programmes are made in a documentary style and it's not always possible for the cameraman to go from filming wide to then in close without missing something else. We have several new video courses in the making (paid ones for our customers) so I will keep some of your comments in mind but this video demonstrated the function of the Siros L and the HS trigger and it did that exceptionally well and it showed side by side results that clearly demonstrated the with and without factor which was the whole aim of the video, it even included words with the pictures to ensure clarity. I think this video did exactly what it needed to. We also weren't filming Birdman or any other type of dramatic high budget production, what we were doing was making a FREE video with just 2 cameras, a short window of opportunity with the setting sun and trying to put all that together for everyone to understand what this kit does and why it is useful. I think we achieved that very well.

A model may not be a trained photographer, but she's also not a child. Pretty sure a grown woman can carry a camera to the car…

A HSS speedlight w/ transmitter with a light stand and an umbrella softbox can be had for Canon, Nikon, or Sony for < $400 total and will get you the same results.

I recently bought a used Yongnuo flash and transmitter set that allow high speed synch for £70 - you do not have to spend a lot of money

High speed sync isn't the same as Hisync or hyper sync. buy elinchrom makes a much more affordable version of this and it works just as good. your paying for a brand here and some degree of better build quiality

kvdgadj what’s your point? So that hears cheaper lights to cater to you? So many crybabies here. He’s a pro photographer not a RU-vid photographer. He uses pro equipment that is expensive. Start your own RU-vid channel with the equipment you use. I don’t get this logic. Different photographers use whatever tools they believe in. Some pay more for equipment because they do the job or are more durable or they just like how it creates the aesthetic that it produces. There’s a difference between consumers and pros. Consumers keep buying the cheapest and keep upgrading more then pros who just buy the best they can get and so they can’t blame the equipment for their shortcomings. Would you as a pro go around real clients and say I got the cheapest lights I could get so I am ready to shoot your job?

Hi Hemo, I don't know how old you are but if it's any consolation things were pretty tough when I was a kid and then I had to work very hard (3 jobs at one time) to save to buy just the basic equipment. From there it was years and years of hard work and a couple of times I almost lost my business. After 25 years of hard work in this industry I have a successful business and I continue to enjoy what I do. I can live quite comfortably and enjoy my life with my family and other passions like the ocean and diving. None of this came easy, it was once a dream for me too, I just decided to make it a reality by working hard and not giving up.

You're super hero man 😄 i will never give up .and I'm studying and working so hard at the same time but the place where i live is so bad and that can't help u doing well .. so the country is the key and i hate this fact 😖 .. wish u good luck my ph teacher 😄 i really love your works .and one day I'll be like u

shamal subhee I think he said: "do you think so?" Inferring that he had some doubt about the product that he was selling. I think that's what happened.

He did say 'do you think so' but it had nothing to do with the product. He was making fun of my work because he likes a bit of rivalry.

- This is fantastic - I think so

No Urs was making fun of me, I said we got some really good shots there and he said 'you think so?' because he didn't know we were rolling and we often like to wind each other up for fun. :)

***** Oh okay haha I was trying so hard to understand. I completely understand, I do that with my friends as well

it's hard to recognize for non native speakers like me I guess, especially with specific accents -)

I'm not really sure what you mean. There wasn't any fake demeanour, if anything I had to tone it down a bit as I kept having laughing fits with Urs trying to wind me up during filming. If I get excited it's because I'm genuinely happy!

Yes it wasn't up to my usual standards which you can see here karltaylor.com/overview - on this particular one it was a short free video to simply demo the high speed sync and unfortunately we were up against the clock.

They do it says that in the video, a notice comes up saying also available for Sony.