Brownells Aluma "Hyde in the Woods" Camo 

The Bob Ross of gun painting in the land of happy little trees...

eric turn your can upside down and push the nozzle fir just a second it clears it so you don't get that dried paint clog (works 99% of the time).

its your gun. theirs no mistakes. just happy little trees. put them where ever you want

I wonder why you dont use clear paint to camo it. Wouldnt a invisble AK be much better than a black/tan one?

I don't know if it's the same on these cans... But on most cans, once you are finished.. Hold it upside down and spray, and you'll see that paint comes out for like 2 seconds and then it turns into a clear air........... That means the nozzle and straw are now clean.

"Quick video." *3 1 M I N U T E S*

Instead of burlap, but for the same effect, drywall tape works really well cause you can actually tape off an area and still get the mesh look...Also, the orange net bags from the super market that oranges and clementines come in works well also.

Nobody: Brownells: we make spray paint now

Dont ever look down the barrel of a loaded spray can eric......

Not sure about the makeup of Aluma-Hyde per say, but clear coat is typically used for UV sunlight protection from breaking down the actual base coat and more or less physical protection from bumps, scrapes, gouges, etc.

These videos encourage me to step up and move ahead with the vision I have for a shotgun and one of my rifles.

Very cool

As exciting as watching paint dry! Next time, on Iraqveteran8888: Watching Paint Dry On My Rifle! You're the Bob Ross of gun painting, lol!

About a minute in I said to myself "Don't paint the Saiga!!"

Always flip the can and blow out the paint in the nozzle if you're going to store the can. Also a Bamboo disposable Chopstick with painters take wrapped around and shoved in the Barrel makes a decent handle for when your painting the Barrel

Alumahide has talc for finish purposes, so alumahide needs mixed/shaken for long length of time. When you're thinking you shook it enough, do it again. When taking breaks, turn the can upside down, then spray until just air comes out. This will keep the nozzle clean.

I lay down a base coat/color. Then i spray multiple colors of rustoleum onto a paper plate, mix with a sponge and dab the paint on. Resembles a form of the "Atacs camo" . i go light shades on areas that dip in and dark on areas that bump out.

“I want chaos in this finish, I don’t want it to look like something I want it to look like nothing”

Degrease and prep the crap out of whatever you're coating. I've used AH on probably a half dozen guns. The prep goes A LONG way. I've found that bundling the can up in a towel and tying it, then running it in the dryer for about 10 minutes will warm up the paint and it seems to apply better, plus it shakes it up for you.

The bob Ross of gun painting 🎨

One think I really like about this channel is that you don't have a meaningless and boring intro ! Keep up the good work !

America is the best country in the world! Thumbs up 👍 if you agree!

Back in my Bondo, spray paint days, with my cars, I learned the trick to turn the spray cans upside down. With the can inverted you can spray just gas to blow out the paint.

Due to the talk that gives matte paints the matte appearance, the pickup tube in the can may become clogged as well. We offer a clean-out nozzle to that will clear out the pickup tube in the can. Item number 084-179-004.

A quick video....? From you guys!? I about fell out of my chair!!

This never showed up on my feed.☹️

Years ago when I was still a whipper snapper and my body wasn't all worn out and busted down I got into camo painting my longbows and a Marlin model 60 rifle I used for squirrel hunting. Something that really worked well after a good job a prepping is to wrap the strand of fake Ivy around the weapon for it's entire length. Be sure to leave plenty of open spaces along the Ivy wrap so that paint will have enough room to get by the vine and leaves and onto the weapon. Sometimes you may find it beneficial to remove some of the leaves from the fake Ivy so that the coverage it makes on the weapon won't be so dense that paint can't reach the surface you wish to paint. I also reversed the direction of the way I wrapped the vine each time I changed paint colors. There are two ways to use the texture paints that I am going to describe shortly. Number one: go ahead and spray every color you intend to use except black. Then on areas that I wasn't going to be touching very often I sprayed texture paint. There are two types of texture paint that I know of. One has a texture that resembles very coarse sand or ittsy bittsy pebbles; the other sprays on shiny black then after it dries over-night it will be flat black and very wrinkled. It looks cool. Two things though, if I remember correctly, both only come in black, must be used on metal that is no cooler than 70° F, and it must dry for no less than 24 hours in a place that gets no lower than 70°F. Number two: use the type of texture paint or even use each in a different area but this time use texture paint on areas that you won't be touching often or ever and then use regular flat black as your base coat. Then just use the instructions I wrote in the other way to use texture paint. Two more things: A. It's a good idea to practice on a plank of metal or wood, anything but your rifle, before permanently committing upon your rifle. Remember, this is like getting a tattoo. Once you start it's permanent and there's no going back. B. It is far better to use many layers, each color done in a light mist rather that a wet, thick coat. It is also much better for paint adhesion if you allow each light misted coat to dry a full day before spraying the next coat. I know, I know, it will take a lifetime if you do it that way. So what! Get a hobby to occupy your time while the paint dries. Heck, grow a beard. That's a fun and exciting way to spend your free time. Always wear a painters mask and eye protection. My camo jobs were so like our woods here in Dixie that I could easily loose a bow or rifle if I leaned it against a tree and walked away from it some distance. Keep that in mind.

You know what would be really fun to see ? I was thinking about painting a rifle by shooting the sprays next to it. You can line them up for a crazy cool effect or shoot them one by one from different angles all around the gun !! Trust me it's gonna be a lot of fun ! You might want to be careful with your angles and caliber choice if you don't want shrapnel or bullet fragments hitting the firearm but that's basically the only thing you have to worry about

The nozzles were clogging because you weren't tipping the can upside down and spraying the can 'til it stopped spraying paint. You have to clear the tip of paint when you're done using the can.

That's the 1st time I've ever enjoyed watching paint dry .

Just coated some of the accessories on my ar in parkerized aluma-hyde and I love it! Turned out very handsome and he is 100% right, all the time is in the prep work

I couldn't really pay attention to what Eric was saying, I kept looking for movement back there in the woods....

Tiny shapes or splattered bits of rust red primer. Sounds strange but works great. I cut a cardboard gun sometimes to "test" my color ideas.

Love your channel guys , wish we had your view on guns here in the UK

All Alumahide coats need applied within one half of an hour, or after its completely cured, which is one to two weeks, or 300-350 degrees for 3.5 hours.

Great video. If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong.

I'm thinking we need a GoFundMe to get Eric some more t-shirts. He can wear Jurassic Park only so many days in a row...

My brother spray painted one of his AR-15s and it took him 2 days because of Cold weather so my dad suggested that he should use the hair dryer to help him dry it up. That really works.

" I don't want it to look like something. I want it to look like nothing" .......Master!

"Today we are going to be doing a quick video" 30 mins later "well guess that wasnt so quick"

I have a Polish Tantal and I think that handguard is badass........I would love to get me one of those! great paint job Eric! .....KEEP ON ROCKIN IT!............Iraqveteran8888..........................

Tip Use Navy Jelly for rust then Steel wool 00 then more navy jelly try that before you rebuke it then do your paint over that.

Forget real tree! That thing turned out great and it looks fun. I never thought about painting my fire arms....this is going on the hi-points .🤩

Awesome episode Eric an thanks for the knowledge about this product Sir. Very interesting process !!!!!!!!!

Used this as well as Cerakote and like this much more than any other coating!!

That clear coat made a world of distance!

I just used Aluma Hyde 2 in matte black to redo a ithaca model 37 featherlight. It turned out great, way better than expected! Extensive prep, and a $14 harbor freight heat gun are your greatest allies.

Speeding up the video 1.75x helps to see the process faster. Great vid Eric. The finished product looked like a boss. Thank you sir.

Looks like a good camo for your boogaloo yeetstick.

I've used that product many times .love it!!!

Well done video. Very helpful. Will be using your techniques. Thank you very much. 👍

Arrr.....Teeeest! You did a great Job!

Brownells sells a bag of 25 nozzles (black) for like 5.00. They also sell clean out nozzles (green) so it will keep the tube in the can free of any build up. (which cause that splotchy spatter) That AK looks good!

That is better than most "modern art".

Omit the black! Black stands out and is one of the easiest colors to spot.

I like the low quality hobby lobby craft copper wire to suspend my projects. Works awesome and I can bend it to allow paint to get more places where string would cover.

I have a Khyber parts kit that I had built but not finished u just influenced me to go out to garden and paint this thing, I might add more greens though, I'm in Kentucky so the greens are green here lol

Love this style of content!

Omg! This video is Awesome! Never thought about painting a gun, but good to know there is an alternative to my wife's nail polish. I cant convince her to get camo colors...😒

Let's just have fun with it.. say it one. More. Time!!!

Flipping the can upside and spraying til its clear helps.

Ah the classic jurassic park t-shirt!

That slotted rail is sweeeeeet.

Also anyone else reminded of Bob Ross lol?

Whenever I order Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II paint I always order an extra pack of nozzles too. Another thing when using Aluma-Hyde II is to use a pin that is used to inflate football/basketball/soccer balls to clean the nozzles out when they get plugged or when done using the can for a while.

Dont forget the part about where you need to either bake it or let it sit for a long time to fully cure. I just got a big cardboard box and shot in hot air from a blow dryer for several hours. You can use the oven but risk pissing off the wife. Temps were pretty high and the coating has held up.

To keep the nozzles from clogging hold can upside down from time to time and spray until spray is clear.

I might go this route instead of cerakote. I would love to get some m81 camo stencils and coat my cadex chassis. And the rifle came out so badass Chuck Norris would love it! Awesome job!

the best coating i ever did on a firearm was using high temp engine paint, the trick is to buy the hardener spray they make for them hydrographic kits that hydrographic hardener stuff...works even better then cerakote just try to do the least amount of spraying as possible and i can literally not scratch the finish and it's 4 years of monthly use at the range.... engine paint with hydrographics hardener spray has been the best finish for me and ive tried it all cerakote/duracoat/spray paint/epoxy sprays like aluma-hide.....none of them hold as long as the engine paint with hydrographic spray on hardener...dont over do it on the hardener just go back can's instructions and that hardens over time too even more which is the same hardeners they use when they hydro dip guns at a lot of the factories

Bob Ross: "There is a happy little bunny right under this tree.." 😊 South Park Uncle Jimbo: "And he is coming right for us!" 😮 (massive shooting) South Park Ned: "mmm get er done!" 😂

I painted my LR-308 with Rust-oleum camo paint. I used (I don't remember what) solvent to clean the gun first. Anyways, I like how the paint turned out, and I also like how it's wearing after about 14 months, which is quite a bit on the major touch points. I like the worn look though, and that's kind of what I was looking for.

Eric, now do one with Duracoat.

Go to your grocery store and buy by the gallon, canning vinegar, 9% instead of 6% acidity, take all the metal parts and place fully submerged in a tub, check every 12 hours, remove old vinegar and rusty water until clear. Also at each flush use a brass cleaning brush on the parts. Sometimes it takes 24-72 hours. Just check on to make sure after all of the rust is gone that it is not attacking the metal.... if you are not going to finish immediately then coat with mineral oil. Find plugs or other for barrel prior to starting. Sometimes earplugs will work.

Eric I enjoy your videos , so if you're going to use the aerosol can to spray things ? remember a can of starting fluid with the straw will blow out the airsoft tip so it does not clog up ,? 😎

Much like a camouflage condom, you will never see it coming...

Its still a black and grey gun.. sticks out at @29:20 ...

Real nice job you did Eric. The rifle looks really good.

I coulda used Chad’s extra pair of hands last night actually sprayed my ks47. I just did an urban gray camo pattern over the black. But my Grendel that I hunt with I did the full on camo and used a crab net to brake it up came out really nice I used it for about a year and wore the paint off in all the high spots then I sprayed it with the flat clear coat to keep that battle worn look. I couldn’t be happier. It’s funny though cuz the first time I painted it I hated it and thought I ruined my rifle lol. I stripped the paint off did it again still didn’t like it but didn’t Wana strip it again so I just painted it back black and did the final camo paint job over that. So for anyone hesitant on painting their rifle just go for it, it can always be undone.

If it's possible I would love to see a full review of the B&T Suppressed VP9 WELROD 9mm. They call it the “veterinary pistol” This is NOT a H&K VP9 it's a handgun made just for dispatching large animals.

Might want to tape up those sights beforehand. Want to be able to see those sights clearly. I had a problem with that when I did my AR

That’s art man, good job

I've always had really good results with just some krylon camo color paints. I paint all of my guns! I even have a bright caution orange AR which looks fucking ridiculous but people seem to love it every time I take it to the range!

It's like watching paint dry😁

Something was clogging the nozzle......now it’s sprays great! 😂

I've had great luck with alumihide on ar15s mags and other gun furniture

BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE II and the original BROWNELLS - ALUMA-HYDE. Have different application and cure methods.

Cool paint job!

Diggin' that shirt.

You guys are so great with me 22s I need to see the bergara bxr 22 in action. This looks like it’s going to really hurt the volquartsens of the world .

I've had very good luck using hi-temp Rustoleum spray paint.

@ 2:38 Once over dust, twice over rust. Navy painting on an Army channel 😂

You have my hat on! Good vid!

i'm freaking out about the tree.

You can get 3 guns out of one can. Its best to use the can all at once. If you try to store it chances are it will not spray again. Aftermarket spray tips some times work some times do not. After use store your left over cans upside down and you will need to replace the nozzle. For thick coats use a heat gun behind light coats over and over again seems to work best. Its says to use above a temp of 70 Deg. I will not spray till mid 80s. Oven cure at 190 to 220 for 3 hours and done. Avoid spraying small moving parts, " Bolt, Trigger, Front Trunnion, Springs. " Very thick and heavy duty coat. If you mess up the only thing that will take this stuff off is airplane paint stripper. Again I say do not spray critical moving parts.

That is so cool

Looks great

I know everybody does this, however, it just seems like it’s making a mess on a perfectly good gun for no reason. It looks great, but... I grew up with a dad that got upset if you touched a barrel because fingerprints contain oil that eats the blueing etc.

I love it! I have my sub2000 torn down now and I’m getting ready to rattle can it. This is a solid option that I might go with.

I was really disappointed in my alumahyde. It was so glossy I had to hit it with a scotch bright pad after it cured and spray it with a matte/flat clear coat...

"If you can dodge a wrench, you can paint a gun"