I started getting misty eyed remembering my dad teaching me how to part and comb my hair as Caleb does. Anybody out there remember Vitalis or Brylcream and carrying a pocket comb? Caleb is a great giving how to demonstrations. Painting is 75% prep work 25% painting. Dad taught me that too.
Based on looks alone, I would say that Cosmoline is Caleb's hair product of choice. _But_ he seems like a fine upstanding patriot.. My guess would be Aero-Shell;-]
No one had a jar of the pink Butch creme? The round comb with 1.25" spikes that made your hair lay over when it was time for a new haircut. The 60s were something else, scissors in green barbcide... no nits here sir!
Of COURSE, I finally got tired of waiting for this series and painted my rifle without watching this first. Also, this video is fantastic. I wish I would have waited, but my next go at this will be better. Thanks for finally making it.
You can always just paint right over top of it. This past weekend, I re-did paint jobs on 2 ar’s, I wasn’t all that satisfied with my first try on either of them
@@joegonzalez5602 I did not use a respirator, but Caleb is right; you should. I didn't use clean-out nozzles, but there were/are not any available. That said, he gives you a work-around in a previous video.
It's nice that it's an informative Brownell's product instruction video, but the guy has some personality and a few pop-culture jokes along the way. Great stuff!
Every time I want to order some and I'm ready for this project there are never any extra nozzles in stock. I've been on the waitlist for at least half a year too. If they're basically required, either have them available or include a couple extra with each can please
After using this a few times, it is my go to for a base coat on a rifle. If I am doing a camo job, I do a base coat of Aluma Hyde, let it dry for a few weeks, then use Krylon or Rustoleum for the other colors.
@@johnboluski-zl1qn well I've not seeing any vids on your YT so I'll stick with the trusted company that's been around since 1939 . Thanks for boring me with your uninteresting and unrequited comment. Have a great day trolling 👍
I wish I disassembled and baked like the video recommends but I just taped off, cleaned with brake cleaner, and let the sun dry it in 75 degree weather. Still holds on well. Great product and video.
Been using Aluma-Hyde II for 25 years or more. Works great on steel, aluminum, plastic & wood. Everyone hates on my black, Aluma-Hyde II painted, Danish beech wood M1 Garand stock. 🤠
Very interested to watch this series. I've literally signed up for in-stock notifications for this stuff and never bought it because I was unsure what I would be getting into.
I used aluma Hyde II on a H&R pardner pump protector OD green to protect it from rust as the light parkarized finish wasn't doing the job down here in Georgia with the humidity, great stuff well worth the prep work and it looks great
I used Semigloss Black on my CETME C, and it has never looked better. I finished her off by staining the wood furniture in Bombay Mahogany and she just looks absolutely classy.
I did several AR15 with Grey Parkerizing Aluma-Hyde.....came out great. I prepared the metal with a Brownells metal prep degreaser, one night in my Attic work shop,....sprayed the next night and then let cure for two weeks in the Summer Heat of the Attic. Temps were well over 100° for a slow cure.
If you can’t get the cleanout nozzles, take an old nozzle off an old spray can get your smallest drillbit and drill it out while still leaving enough meat on the part that inserts into the can ( not sure what it called) then drill out where it sprays from, you need to make sure both drill holes meet, the goal is to make a big enough passageway for those little clumps to get through! Once you done this, put it on your can, shake it up good and spray until the clumps aren’t coming out anymore, if no clumps come out then try drill the holes a little bigger. Once you’ve got those clumps out then you’re good to put your original nozzle back on and start painting!! If you don’t have a drill bit small enough you can use a piece of small metal wire, get it red hot and use it to expand the passage way.
Wish I had this video two weeks ago. I painted my upper and lower. Not perfect but definitely not bad. Probably should have stuffed the takedown and safety switch holes. Nice and tight. Need to go back and file some of it out.
I've used Aluma-Hyde II quite a bit on various guns as well other metal and some plastic components. The best stuff I've ever used that wasn't baked on for ease of application and durability.
If Brownells could actually keep things in stock, it would make it so much better. For example, clean out nozzles have been out of stock for a while. Please don't push products that you can't even sell.
Pro tip for shaking, duct tape the can to the side of your sawsall blade, make sure you tape it on when the blade stroke is all the way in or at its shortest!! Then pull the trigger and the quick back and forth will shake up that can really really good !! if you don’t have a sawsall then tape the can to the rim of any wheeled vehicle and drive for a minute or two!!
This stuff is legit. I did a glock frame and barrel 2 years ago. I carry it everyday and it has not worn at all. I did bake it in an old electric smoker and flashed each coat with a heat gun. Not sure how necessary it was but it worked wonders.
The runs. Good one. Keep up the jokes. I would wait for gramps to come home from work in the shipyards. Every day he would take off his work boots and say in German, my feet stink. I still laugh about that.
Xylene leaves less film than acetone. Would Xylene work too or does the Alumahyde require acetone specifically? Acetone is good stuff but it melts nitrile gloves, which leads to PPE permeation that can damage your kidneys.
Thanks so much for the awesome videos!! PLEASE get the Matte Black Aluma Hyde II in stock, the clean out nozzles and the smaller sizes of Manganese Parkerizing solution!!! You guys only have 5 gallons of Manganese Parkerizing solution in stock!!! I’m ready to do allot of Aluma Hyde II but no matte black😭😭
There is a product called 9H by hammaroo. It is a ceramic coating you apply to a finished product. Whether polymer, platic wood, steel, nealy every hard surface. 9H is a hardnesss scale 1 to 10. With diamond being 10 the hardest. It is a thin clear coating applied by cloth to your finished paint job. Originally made for hard steels and stainless parts and tools. And another + for it is it isn't super expensive.
Love that honkin' apron, Caleb. Settle an argument for me please. I say the apron is Naugahyde (based on an old couch someone gave us when we first got married) but my buddy says it's "Pleather" (he used to date a girl whose entire wardrobe was some kind of synthetic leather-like material). It's definitely not 100% Virgin Vinyl, the sheen is all wrong. So, which is it??? Thanks for another good video.
Y lower receiver ended up as he described “snake pattern “ or rough. How can I smooth it out, with removing/stripping completely and throw another coat of alumahyde over it? Is it even possible?
Alcohol and elbow grease removes aluma-hyde II So if you have safe queens you won’t or can’t afford to shoot but wanna look like you actually use your guns alcohol on a fabric glove will give you that look. Or just just your guns and when you rebarrel it’ll look lightly used. I used this to get the lettering in the lower to be a different color. I half cure the first layer and then when I half cure second layer the first is done completely so it resist the alcohol better. Lastly for Marines like me who painted their guns with rustolum only and realized the gun looks one color under NVGs, aluma hyde makes a great base to contrast against other paint. I use FDE aluma hyde, forest green krylon, olive green rustolum, and cheap ACE hardware brown. My camo patern layers naturally and makes a good base. Throw some camo face paint on cut up burlap and you have good base for a gillied gun.
Shake it Shake it again Shake it some more Shake it again Shake it Them shake it ten more times Mine came out with a very wrinkled finish, but another 5 minutes of shaking, after ten minutes of shaking, then it mixed well. 👌🏽
I think any rattle can paint can benefit from warming first, especially if it's stored in a cool place. Place it in your sink with hot tap water for a few minutes. Don't place it in water on the stove for obvious reasons.
I tried to take a screenshot with the captions on when he mentioned the meth lab part, LOL. Who ever added the captions left that comment out so I had to turn the settings to auto generated and I got it...
I'm sure there is a manufacturer warning guy that will screech "noooooo" but IF you have an ultrasonic, it is great at dispersing solids in rattle can paints that have a lot of solids. Shake it like mad, a minute or so bobbing in the US, Shake it again. Welcome to a world of reduced clogs!
