I would like to add a suggestion for a more accurate valve adjustment on this 4 wheeler. Being that the both valves are actuated by a single, forked rocker arm, you should use a feeler gauge under both sides at the same time. That will keep the rocker arm from "rocking" from one side to the other, making the valve that you just adjusted change clearance. You should at least go back and check the first one that you adjusted to confirm that the first side did not change. I am referring to both intakes OR exhaust at the same time. Very good video. Precise and right to the point. Keep up the good work. You are doing the 4 wheeler community a good service. Regards
I'm rebuilding top end for the first time. I adjusted all the valves like book said. Then decided to turn crank around and test to see if it took. Sure enough it didn't. Turned to tf again and all still to tight. I like the advice on doing intake and equast at same time to keep from rocking.... But I'd like to know if the valve goes up and down twice before piston does one rev? Also based off that would the valve have to be in the highest position and on correct tf tr for cylinder working on? I know this is long shot since an old post, but hope someone can clarify a little more to me. 🥺
pro tip, when adjusting leave lock nut just loose enough to be able to turn adjustment screw , this will make it much easier to maintain the clearance , if you completely loosen the nut the adjustment will change when you lock it down requiring several attempts.
I hope I just need a valve adjustment and not replaced rings. Will try this while waiting for a compression tester, Dad's old one won't fit down these narrow plug holes.
My book says Valve Clearance (when cold) Exhaust: 0.20 ∼ 0.25 mm (0.0079 ∼ 0.0098 in.) Inlet: 0.10 ∼ 0.15 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0059 in.) your valves are super tight 😳😳😳😳 well ima try it on mine and lean toward the tight side
Difficulty rating 7.5 out of 10 (the feeler gage was a bit hard to get in the tight spots). Warning the repair manual doesn't even explain the fact that the camshaft rotates 180 degrees for every turn of the cranshaft (fundamental principle of any 4-stroke). So, the engine is only on TDC firing at every other turn of the crank. The exhaust valves are not closed all the way at TDC intake. This is why you must be sure the engine is on TDC firing, not TDC intake. If you adjust the valves when the engine is not on TDC firing, your valve adjustment will be way off and it will not run well and wear out your valvetrain. -You need a feeler gage, flathead screwdriver, and a box end metric wrench (10mm). Check when engine is at room temperature (68F of so) otherwise the different expansion coefficients of the different types of metal involved will completely invalidate your valve adjustment. 1. Remove front plastic (includes top rack), battery case, right water pipe bolt if necessary, valve adjustment caps, recoil starter (or alternator cover, in the case of the 2008 BF). 2. Remove timing inspection plug (slotted plug, left side of crankcase near recoil starter). It may be too tight for a big screwdriver. If it is too tight, you might try a vise grip on the outside edge of it. 3. Turn crank counter-clockwise using a wrench on the crank bolt (under the recoil). Turn it counterclockwise until the TF mark shows up (the top part of the T lines up with a notch in the hole). Note that if the cylinder is at the end of the compression stroke all four valves will be closed (you can feel clearance in the rocker when the valves are closed). If the engine is at the end of the exhaust stroke, some of the valves will be partway open (the exhaust I think), and you need to turn it counterclockwise one full revolution until it is at the end of the compression stroke (back to same mark). 4. Check and if needed adjust all four valves on front cylinder to: Intake 0.10-0.15mm (.0039"-.0059") cold Exhaust 0.20-0.25mm (.0079"-.0098") cold * To adjust a valve, loosen locknut, turn center screw left for looser, right for tigher. Proper clearance is achieved when feeler gage can slide between valve and adjusting screw with slight resistance (not loose, not tight). I like to use a go-nogo gage made for motorcycles. 5. Turn the crank counter-clockwise until the TR lines up in the timing hole and check/adjust the valves in rear cylinder. Make sure all valves are closed, because this it is 270 degrees CCW from TF. If some of the rear cylinder's valves are open (rocker is pushing them open), you may have turned the crank an extra 360 degrees after you adjusted the front valves or maybe you didn't do the front cylinder on TDC firing. 6. Put stuff back together
hi..I have 2- 650 Kawasaki paraie 4x4..just bought them so I figured I'll do oil change spark plug and air filter and now it pops from carb..is it because I need to adjust the valve clearance???
Love your videos,very informative. I have a 2002 Kawasaki prairie 650 runs good and idols but it won’t decelerate above 15mph....any ideas would be appreciated, thanks
Gus, this "could" be your issue. It's a good place to start as it will only cost you some time to check. Kaw's make incredible power, but are notorious for valves tightening up.
