BSA A65 has new carbs and electronic ignition but won't run properly 1 Initial investigations 

New Premier carburettors? The new floats can be a nightmare, they stick in the closed position, too loose on the spindle, colliding with gaskets and the back of the float chamber, the new stay up float design has rounded off edges on the tab, old ones are sharp. The combination of loose spindle and old tab design gives intermittent sticking, had this problem on my Norton, drove me round the twist got there eventually, good luck, smashing videos.

Another interesting conundrum. Looking forward to the diagnosis in due course.

G'day from Australia, hi Paul, that's one sick BSA, fuel problem, timing out, rust in tank fuel, coil problems, who knows, good hunting, cheers mate, Neil 🤠.

My experience with new Amal concentrics, Premiers, is the pilot circuits can sometimes have drilling swarf causing blockages right out of the packaging. Need to thoroughly clear them/poke through the circuit passageways etc until you achieve a nice spray out of the two tiny holes in the carb throat floor, one either side of the throttle slide edge, air inlet end. Also, the float pivot action can sometimes foul on the bowl gasket material and solution is to trim the gasket near the hinge pivot rod. On this bike, I'd check the fuel flow from the tap and also through the in-line filter and the mesh screen in the banjo on the float bowl. All potentially contributing to poor fuel flow on one side.

My BSA very soon, hopefully Paul when you have a slot. I hope it gets a feature!

i Paul, never was a fan of those in line fuel filters and have a feeling ight side doesn't get enough fuel to work properly, so as a first step would check what is a fuel flow from right side tap to the carb.

Normally there's two main things as fuel or is ignition. As long as the bike is in timing you'll get it going nice bike❤

I’ve had a couple of situations where all the grounds for the new ign were bolted to the rubber mounted battery box resulting in intermittent sparks.

Crappy in-line filter on right side in fuel line possibly? It looked like an airlock when you showed the fuel line close up.

Years ago I looked at one of those. It threw me off when I tried to start it! I took that as a bad omen and walked away.

Love the Fly press

Jiggling is best. Maybe air pockets are released in the process. I could stand there all day waiting for a flood on my AJS if i just held the button down. Jiggling seems to work on the Amal. PS lovely bike, looking forward to next installment

Im no good at guessing or at diagnostics from a couple of hundred miles away via a short video on my computer, (unlike others it would seem) but I can tell it aint right, and its now in the best place to be put right that I can think of, so Ill patiently await the next installment to see whether its a 'simple' fix or another of those 'challenges' that you seem to be quite adept at sorting. 😀

Petrol taps have filters in tank check there not blocked up.remove the external ones .Make up,some new pipelines .Fill tank halfway and open taps to check fuel flow of pipes .If OK connect to carbs ,open bottom large screws to clear air and tighten .Should run correctly .If not Not both slides same height ,chokes up mixture screws same . New plugs ,leads and insulted caps check.

nice single that twin lol

Verify fuel flows from the offending float bowl via the bowl drain. If no flow but flow is verified from the fuel line when pulled from the carb, suspect there may be some new-carb assembly snafu interfering with the float valve. Hopefully the bowl can be pulled whilst the carb remains in place to sort the float/valve operation if the above scenario holds. Also maybe add a liter or two of fuel just in case there is no cross hose on that tank and the right side is dry while the near side has fuel

Good video nice t shirt too 👍

I would guess it’s fuel starvation. Check the petrol cap for venting, check the filters on the fuel taps and I assume there is new petrol in the tank, not some old fuel that’s been left for years. If all this fails, you’re going to need to strip the carbs down. May I suggest that you take it to a garage or competent mechanic though, as there are some pretty small parts in the carbs and very accurate sizes and measurements to consider. Lovely bike my friend, it’s always a pleasure to see these machines being preserved. Keep the videos coming.

fuel starvation would be my first thought then the CDI they often have intermittent faults that just can't be seen and trying one that you know works properly is often the only way of finding out if that is the problem, torch shone in the tank to start with . . . .

the t-shirt is better then the bike...😂😂

Paul, I think you'll find that if this Beeza had a decent quality plated brass keyring like the one on your Trident it would run just fine.. Also - if it takes your fancy - please make sure that you jab at the tickler and rev it to warm it up when it starts..

I would check the tappet clearance on the exhaust off side

One thing I found working with my A65 is a problem with fitting an electronic ignition. The A65 engine has a wide advance range, 12 degrees according to the engraving on the points plate. When I fitted a Tri Spark system, which seems to have 8 degrees of advance, and correctly timed at full advance, the bike became quite hard to start.

I noticed a difference in the color of the exhausts like the one on the left was firing hotter

Often the human body rejects a replacement organ. Perhaps this A65 is doing the same with the EI ? NOW, I'll view the video to see.

I always just hold the ticklers down until fuel comes out. If no fuel comes out, something is wrong. The tickler just holds the float down, so if there is no fuel coming out, that means there is no fuel getting into the carburetor when the needle valve is held open. Is the right side cylinder getting warm?

I would check the fuel tap and carburettor jets and needle settings (?)

Oh what fun.

It would appear paul that we ( the great unwashed readership) have solved your problem !!! Sound advice I say !!! ( oh dear , I fear another rant may be due) I shall follow this one with bated breath. 😊

A mistake often made is too many modifications at the same time...do either spark....or fuel air separatly and tune...that way you know if prob is spark ..or fuel air

Just a short piece of pipe to bypass the filters for a start.That would rule out fuel taps as well as filters to start. Then head into the carbs. It is a fuel problem and those porous bronze Inline fuel filters made in China suck.

I'm not going to guess, I'll just watch you go through the normal trouble shooting routines. Sooner rather than later you'll fettle it.

New parts and no start .let the games begin 😂

Thunderbolt and lightning very very frightening.

One cylinder looks to be running hotter than the other ( left hand side ) and as I type this carbs look to be the issue ! lets see ! waits with baited breath

I know BSA made Guns and Bikes but not often at the same time? sounds like the points or coils are wired wrong to me, or at least once any fuel gets past the 'trending tropical fish food filled visu filters' and 'multiple each one different fuel pipe clamp showcase variety selection' aka _gack plastic fuel lines_ it's obvious something is wired 180 degrees out on the right cylinder. I'll wait and see how wrong I was now 🤪

I'd run a single carb head. Why fight with that dual carb? They were a hassle then, they are a hassle now. And they run smoother with a single carb.

This bike is approximately 60 years old. People make you laugh. Just get it going, will you. What do you mean it needs work?? 😂

oh boy drove me nuts

Needs "stay-up" floats from Amal……

Hi Paul love your video's where did you get that shirt would love to own one .

I don't know why people don't just press the ticler once. After a few seconds if there's nothing coming out then the problem is a stuck float valve or external.

The most styish British bike ever

I never tickle my carbs like that. Pro tip....hold the tickler down until fuel squirts out. If it doesn't, there's your dinner (as Taryl says). Run the bike up to 1800 RPM. If it clears out, that tells you the idle and low speed circuits are plugged. That's what my 1967 Matchless G15CS was doing. Hard starting and stalling. Replaced the right side carburetor, and that did the trick. Turns out the passages in the float bowl were plugged. I figured that out after buying a new carb. Always good to have a spare.

morse code, telegraph operator ? Hew carb's, full of swarf.

BB ignitions are never very good.

gotten get fuel filters working properly or it will not work rightg sounds like a single awfyul turn it off

just needs a kawasaki engine

petrol cop breather may be