I'm prety sure all the BSA clutches I have worked on,the deep hole in the gearbox-side adjuster screw had a grease-packed ball-bearing in,for the push-rod to ride on.
Your right, the ball bearing on mine was missing, I spotted it later and pressed in a new ball. The adjuster I made did work ok though. Thanks for the comment, never stop learning. Cheers B
Thanks for your sizing tips on the 6 spring clutch. New nylok nuts have worked well for me but 2 nuts each seems safer. I hope some day you go thru that dreaded older style gearbox. I had to replace several warn parts in my ‘51 rigid b31’s gearbox and setting the correct amount of endplay has me nervous. They don’t want much and the gaskets effect it too!😳
Great video Brian. The clutch plates were pretty poor straight from the box, Seems to be par for the course now. I wonder if you could get original BSA ones re-lined? The magnet to catch the ball was a clever trick, I'll be borrowing that. I have just uploaded my first proper D7 video, not as good as yours but I'll try to increase the quality as I go along. You could do with a pair of lock wire pliers, I've used them almost every day of my career in aviation. Mostly I engineer from a desk these days though. Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire. Edited for typo.
Patrice, I search eBay mostley, Dragonfly are very good also. There are lots of other supplies that come up on Google. Use part numbers where you can. Good luck. Cheers B
Lovely Job. In your opinion what is the best option for clutch pushrod - split with ball bearing, split with roller bearing or solid length of silver steel. Looking forward to your next video, keep up the good work :-)
The tube through the shaft on mine was gummed up and it took a while to clear it, i polished mine and put the pushrod back with light oil. I think grease would get sticky over time but just personal preference.
