Hi Brian. thanks for the vids - i'm refurbishing a similar box. I noticed you didn't check or shim the end float on the selector shaft or layshaft so the gears mesh well and the dogs are centered. I'm assuming i need to do this... no? yes? thanks
Hi, thanks for the comment. This was the first gearbox I had apart and didn’t find any shims inside, I more or less rebuilt it as found. I am about to refurb another SA box and will measure the end float and look for shims. The video should be on RU-vid shortly. Thanks again Brian
Brian , the project is really coming along nicely. Great job on making the new bolts. That workshop of yours looks really interesting , would love to see a few more pictures of it in the next video. Take care 👍👍
Hi, there are 2 metal plates that fit in the back of the knee pad, it is a bit tricky to fit them and they hold the rubber knee plates in shape. Try the screw first to make sure they fit and that it. Good luck
@@500dbd34 Hi and thanks. I have the metal plates fitted inside the rubber pads. Do the screws go through the rubber, otherwise I don't see how to tighten the screws?
Dave, Using Copper Grease or any anti-seize helps prevent galling. I got this tip from the owner of Lightning Spares in Manchester years ago after returning some new nuts and bolts he supplied that had completly seized, (rear wheel adjusters actually). Thanks for the comment, cheers B
I'm sorry to hear that your having a problem with you bike, I would like to help but unless I can see and hear it there is little I can do do help. Check out the BSA C12 forum.
No picture of the rebuilt c12. Had one in 1973.when i was 17 😊 Resprayed it, new rings, was difficult getting parts then Happy hamrax, bike cost me £15. Now they are £2,800 quid. Clutch plates were a problem but can get decent ones today. Got A10 engine and box to rebuild. Chassis is rolling. New forks wheels, s/a bushes, needs triumph 4 spring clutch instead of the horrid six spring one.
Hi, I’ve looked back at my videos and the final C12 video is still there. Search for Bsa C12 Restoration Part 13 (final), hope you find it. Let me know if you can’t, Cheers Brian
Hello, I'm interested in galvanizing, can I ask for a precise description of what solution and electrodes you use, thank you. And the voltage is only from 1.5v batteries, thank you
Good evening, a very good report on the transmission overhaul of the BSA B31. What amount of oil in milliliters is poured into the gearbox, I didn't find any information in my documents. Thank you for an answer. Michael
Hi Brian, the light is a good solution to your problem. A slightly more complicated alternative would be use a "delay off" relay in located the new wall mounted panel, you have plenty of room. That can break the stop circuit if you forget to turn it off, the timer could be triggered from the 110V lathe control circuit if you want to be fancy and have it run on a fixed time after the lathe has been in use, a bit like a bathroom fan speaking of which the fan is definitely a good idea I put a cooling fan into my rotary converter control box to get rid of any heat from the auto transformer Hope you are enjoying the Harrison, it is a luxury having a bit more room to swing than the Myford Kind regards Paul
Hi Paul, Thanks for the brilliant comment, it’s great that people like you and others can take the time to share their experience and knowledge, this is what RU-vid is all about. I get what you’re saying with the off timer thing, I use something similar to stop my compressor coming on at night and pissing off my neighbours. I’ve spent enough time on this so will probably stay with the light for the moment but thanks again for the comment. Cheers Brian
These movies are great, just started rebuilding my dads 1954 B31, that was in the shed for 25 years, it was completely disassembled, in the meanwhile my father died. Is there any way to contact you for questions, if you are open for that
Hi Brian, I'm new to owning a bsa , can you tell me where the bsa garter decal/ or water slide decal should go , is it high up on the front fork leg (lower) ? or on the head light bracket ? also my bsa is a 54 swingarm 500 b33 did these models ever have the seat decal marking . Cheers .
Would have been far better if the graphics guy had digitised the letters from his photo rather than finding a font that was close but not correct. You did a great job of sticking them on those compound curves though :)
Thanks for the comment always appreciated, i've checked the original and its a perfect match, cant see any difference from the original. Cheers, stay safe, Brian
Hi Brian, Looks a great machine, I also moved from a Super 7 to a M300 last year, although I had to build my own phase converter, so the jockey motor is separate from the box (behind the lathe) on antivibration mounts which helps a lot with the noise. I found adding a 12 by 26mm needle thrust bearing under the tool post nut gave me much more positive clamping action without feeling like I'm flogging it up. I did have to pull the gearbox of the front to clean the varnish out as the gear change was sticky, and flushing alone wasn't enough. If you ever have to get into things line that check out Sam Fielder's channel, he pulled his M300 completely apart. The Myford hasn't left yet, but I'm under orders ........... 😁
Hi, great comment. I have watched most of Sam Fielder’s stuff, me makes me laugh and is a but wakky but his channel is brilliant. Ive solved the problem of the noise by putting the phase converter in the shed behind the garage. I have made a short video of the move and will be posing it very soon. Check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks again, cheers Brian
Most informative video, thank you so much. I have recently purchased a 1952 B31 and have joined the Vintage Motorcycle club. I am working my way through all of your content. thank you so much for uploading it
Thanks Bob, glad you enjoyed the video, the BSA owners club will be helpful if you need any information. Well done for keeping our motorcycle heritage going. Cheers Brian
Hi Brian, new to me , my 54 b33 seems to have an odd dry sort of cyclic vibration that I can feel through the pegs , I found the primary chain really tight , so I have reset that , and then adjusted the rear chain , added oil to primary and topped up box , but it is still there , have you come across anything similar ? , I was wondering about the clutch drum bearing ? . Any input greatly appreciated. Cheers .
Hi Brian, I'm a new 54 BSA b33 owner , I thought mine was low on compression as it seems hard to find compression stroke , weird , so I just did mine and got 165 psi it has a triumph kick lever longer I think , it's got a m20 crank and big bore to make 597cc . Cheers
Hi , I have a 54 B33 , not owned it long , dynamo is 6v , has no gear driving it , t has s 12v battery that is charged now and then . I would like to upgrade dynamo to 12v and fit the dvr2 , how have you found this conversion , where did you get your parts ? Or send it to .
Just love watching you work so passionately restoring this bike Brian. Shame about the missing part, hopefully it’ll just turn up out of the blue 👍👍 Take care
Hi Brian I've just picked up an M300 at a government auction and about to install at home, so your video is a great entry into what I will need to do. Your modifications are very clever. I will use a 2.2kw VSD to run mine. The coolant pump which is 3 phase was missing but I've picked up a single phase pump that will do the job. Thanks again for your videos.