10GbE yes but only half duplex - aka pure garbage. Try to use download and upload the same time and that 10Gb can not handle anything. Full duplex is right way to go, not shi tty way half duplex
Hi copper allows for upto 10GbE to devices around the house. The house has fibre directly into it. As nearly all tv’s, game’s consoles computer have Ethernet using copper is the most effective way. Otherwise each device would need the media converted to fibre to Ethernet. Most tv’s only have 100mb connections therefore the 10,000mb Ethernet will be more than enough for the next 10 - 20 years. The fibre could well be delivering 100GbE by then. It maybe possible to send more than 10GbE as Ethernet technology improves.
Over a short run(less than 100m) it doesn't matter and in most homes you are going to be nowhere near 100m from the main box(well unless you live in a palace or something).
Interesting that you had the extension lead right against all the termination points. I suppose having that in close proximity to the bare Ethernet doesn't matter as much compared to when it is live wiring within the walls? I always tend to keep a distance of 30-45cm as a rule of thumb, even at sockets (so the data modules are spaced a fair bit from the power sockets). To be honest it would be cleaner with them bang up against each other as you have done, but on the very unlikely case there is interference I'd rather not have to redo anything.
I have never seen any problems with proximity yet, but that does not mean they arent occuring! I think avoid to run the power and data runs in same ducting and routes and to cross them at 90 degress is more important. I guess an installed cable will almost certainly out perform a wifi contection or powerline adapter and give consitent results even when not installed in the best case serniro. Though the look of the installation in a home enviroment is often very important factor.
Yes you can plug your own router into the ONT it needs a wan port and to support PPPoE. The only configuration details you need are the PPPoE username and password which I believe are bthomehub@btbroadband.com and the password BT. Most routers will support this though you could go all in an build your own with with pfsense.
Hi cli in the thumbnail and video is the direct result of plastering the wall in which it passes through. The fibre was already installed at the house prior to the renovation. Therefore the ONT was removed prior to plastering and the fibre cable bagged and wrapped. The plasters luckily only covered the tubing in plaster which has now been cleaned off. It’s certainly not the result of the bt open reach installation. Ideally if it was being installed we would of had the fibre come straight to the cabinet or loft space if allowed as part of the open reach install.
Hi the switch at the moment is just a 8 port 1Gb tplink, the only data is the internet connection and this switch is more than adequate. In the future the switch can be upgraded when required. Zyxel make a few 24 port managed switches which are fan less so ideal for home environment also low cost. The management allows for Multiple vlans to isolate networks such as IOT devices and guest connections. There are also a lot of multi gig switches available though you will need multi gig capable clients and severs or a very fast internet connection to use any thing more than 1Gbe connection. I also like the Ubiquity UniFi products. I guess a lot comes down to your use case and budget, and how hands on you want or need to be.
@@MerciaSolutions thanks for the reply. I currently have UniFi setup in my current home 24 port PoE switch and USG , with poor internet connection (30Mbps). I have a number of access points in property and a few rj45 points wired in house and to office. The new property we are moving to will have fibre , either VM 1gig or BT 900Mbps and I have instructed builder to install Cat6 at numerous points in property. First fix is now complete and I myself will terminate cables Inc network cabinet in office. I had a site visit yesterday and all is good for cable locations and routes 👍. I quite like the UniFi equipment and the GUI so will probably go that route again, but it's just choosing what equipment really as the idea of 10gbe is really appealing for moving data around.
I suspect you will end up with Nokia ONT as in video, with Ethernet cable to link to superhub. Therefore should be straight forward to replace the superhub with your own router.
Brilliant video I've just had fttp fitted, what kind of ethernet cable can I use for a security camera,running from the BT Smart Hub I've knot tried any it's just that the what I'd call the rj45 sockets on the back of the smart hub look small for an ethernet connection thank you.
Hi David, any ethernet cable should work. Most cameras are 1GB or less on the ethernet port. A lot of cameras support POE. If power is to be sent over the ethernet, then a higher quality cable should be used that has copper conductors. Some ethernet cable is aluminium coated in copper. This should not be used for power applications.
@Mercia Solution are they LAP euro modules? I used branded Excel cable (Cat6) and patch panel, but LAP for the euro modules. Interest to know if they are ok for 10G. (most of my runs are sub 30m)
Hi yes the links passed certification at 10G had LAP cat6 euro modules. Though a couple with cat5e euro modules failed due to the cat5e module but passed at 1G.
@@MerciaSolutions Thank you for the reply. I am thinking of using the smaller version of that 10inch rack enclosure in my garage. Do you think there is enough space for a cat6 keystone panel, with a decent bend of the cable? Thanks.
@@tschubb1992 the smaller version is a great rack. However I don’t think you will have enough depth to from the rails to back of the rack for using keystones. I guest a lot depends on the keystone modules used and faceplate.
Hi Pal, Is there a way that I could connect the ONT to another router, rather than the BT Smart Hub 2 ? This is because the BT Smart hub 2 is rubbish. Please do let me know Thank you
Hi Jas, yes you can replace the router. The router will need to support IPV6 and then authentication via pppoe for ipv4. Though prob best checking on bt forums if router you want to use is compatible.
The WiFi is working much better than was expected. It was envisioned that a two or three hidden access points would have been installed the cabling is in place for the future. However as the cupboard is central in the house it means the Wi-Fi only ever has one floor or two walls to reach every location in the house. The 5GHz even works well at the extremes the hub is very good. If the hub was left next to the ONT the Wi-Fi would not reach the top floor or garden as would have multiple floor and wall to get through.
The main fiber entry point downstairs should have been concealed a tad bit better to match the asteic of the general install.. this work looks seamless regardless well done
Thank you Eelee, I agree it would have been nice to have had the fibre entry point relocated. The fiber was already installed prior to the house being renovated, and only suffered with some plaster splashes on the cover which have cleaned off.
So does the ONT act as a modem? If I were to replace the BT hub with my own wireless router would I need a modem or would it just plug straight into the ONT?
Yes you can plug your own router into the ONT it needs a wan port and to support PPPoE. The only configuration details you need are the PPPoE username and password which I believe are bthomehub@btbroadband.com and the password BT. Most routers will support this though you could go all in an build your own with with pfsense.
The ONT was reattached to wall. The house was renovated and the wall was plastered luckily the plasters did not damage the fibre optic cable (it was bagged and taped up) though they did cover the plastic wall plug in plaster. I should have included some follow up footage on the completed install.
Great video. Thank you. I have a new pre-wired (ethernet house). Have just had my fibre installed and would like to use the existing ethernet port to run the connection back to my wiring cupboard. Do you have any suggestions on how I could test the quality of the pre existing ethernet cable without spending a fortune? It is embedded into the wall so can’t see if it is cat 5 or 6. 👍🏻
You could get a couple of computers on each end and run iperf to benchmark throughput. To test for cat 6 you would need 10gb network adapters. Only other choice would be to hire a fluke tester though this will be serval hundred pounds. A cat 5 will easily run 2.5gb or even 5gb so should be more than enough to send the internet connection back to the wiring cupboard. The cat 5 cable is thinner I believe 24 Awg and cat 6 thicker at 23 awg so might help.
@@MerciaSolutions Thank you, that is really useful to know. I have even managed to get a working version of iperf for windows. I will give this a try. I am thinking it might well be cat5 as I can’t imagine any UK new build builder would put in cat 6 if they had to. All of th Ethernet connections terminate in a cupboard under the stairs. I REALLY want to run a network up into the loft (for CCTV, NAS etc), but there seem to be no route to push the cables up with so I may end up tapping off of one of the built in ethernets and going up into the loft that way as Powerline adaptors have proven unreliable at times. Thanks again for your help. Your video is really useful 👍🏻😊 P.S. thanks also for the note on cable thickness, I will have a look and see how thick it measures.
Can you please provide a link to where I can get one of those rack mount boxes? Is there space inside to put the router, instead of balancing it on top?
Hi you would be able to have some routers inside the cabinet, however if you are using the built in Wi-Fi in the router then the metal cabinet would have a negative effect on the signal. You can get the cabinets from here www.cablemonkey.co.uk/home-network-cabinets/9509-10u-connectix-home-cabinet.html or from cpc.
@@MerciaSolutions Thanks for the speedy reply! I have an access point because of poor WiFi from my existing router. Also an account with CPC so that should be easy.
Not a chance lol! Openreach are awful at removing redundant equipment, especially their contractors. Only when they have to do they do so. They are supposed to remove your old telephone wire and replace it with the fibre drop from the pole to the house though.
Couple of questions for you if you don’t mind, I’ve just upgraded to Sky Ultrafast Plus so believe I’ll have an ONT, the room is bare plasterboard on the wall it’ll go on so I’d ideally like them to leave the box loose as it is at the start of your video. That way I can remove the master socket that’s currently there and make good, then fix to the wall once it’s plastered, which leads me to my next question. How does it secure to the wall as I’d be happy to do that once the room is plastered if needs be. Thanks
Hi the the ONT is just slid over a couple of screws. The backplate has a couple of holes with slots above which the screw heads fit through it then slides down and hangs on them. The same slot is found on most mains extension leads so you can wall mount them, not sure what the correct term is. Hope that helps.
@@MerciaSolutions Ah gotcha, so just a couple of keyhole slots on the back of it. Hopefully they’ll be happy to fit it and leave it loose, that way I can fit it to the wall myself once I’ve made good. Thank you for clearing that up, couldn’t find an answer anywhere online!
Great to see an engineer an eye for detail, backed up by great tools. I've installed a home network recently and in all honesty it is bit of a mess! I have a continuity tester but it is pretty basic. A unit with remotes and the ability to show cabling issues would have been a god send.
Hi a patch panel keeps the cables to rooms are static and correctly labelled. It’s also means you only patch up the ports you wish to make live. You might have different services such as a analog phone line run over the Ethernet run and different switches if physical segregation between is required, work vs kids and guests. The cable used between the patch panel and rooms uses a single strand of copper in each of the 8 cores. A patch lead uses multiple strands so its more flexible. Over time if the cables are being unplugged and moved there is a good chance of damaging the cable. I expect the switches and routers will be replaced many times over 20 - 30 year period of time along with the patch leads used both ends. The number of runs really is down to the home and expected future needs. The fluke tester also tests and records various values for each of the runs so for future trouble shooting we can see if something has changed from the installation. That said plugging directly into a switch can reduce hard ware costs and if a service loop is left on the cables in the future a patch panel can be added. Make sure the ends used are suitable for solid or stranded cable.
