Had the 2209 working for less than 5 hours before it died on me. Mine came with pre-crimped wires you have to solder onto your existing wire to make those pin connections. I think using these small pin connections was a poor choice. For me, I'm going back to the Mellow SB2040.
@@IsiksTech TapGap does not happen with the original mount, so yes, this gap is caused by Tap and this is confirmed, so expect an update. In CAD if you align the toolhead/hotend mounting holes of Tap and original carriage, the extruder holes are off a bit, which in turn causes that gap,
Dumb question: to skip canbus can one connect this via USB umbilical if the high power line is still taken care of? does that also avoid reflashing etc?
You can connect it via USB but USB really isn't designed for applications like this. It will likely be unreliable and eventually fail. You still need to flash klipper for USB.
@@IsiksTech Ok. thanks. Just.. I read enough accounts of people struggling with canbus reliability to make me think maybe usb is no worse, but a more commodity approach.
Great explanation, I am planning to build avoron 2.4 printer, as you have experiance with the ebb boards, I am trying to understand rather these ebbs in the video meant to be connected via bus can or UART? Does it matter in terms of speed? And are these ebbs compatible with manta m8p +CB1 via bus can? Thank you
You should use canbus. Not because of speed but because of the fragility of the USB cable and the electrical sensitivity of USB. Canbus should work with cb1. If m8p doesn't have a can transceiver (on BTT boards, if they have a transceiver they have a rj11 port) you will need an extra transceiver or a USB to can board like BTT U2C or mellow utoc
@@IsiksTech I'm not sure if there are other boards that do yet but in the case of the Octopus Max EZ it actually has a 2 pin JST XH for CAN instead of the RJ11 port which is really nice for the molded cable since it will plug right in.
So I'm running the stealth burner on my ender 3, I can't mount the board flush to my cw2 mounting plate because the surface isn't flat I have to use spacers, did anyone else have this issue?
Man I`m so fed up with hearing about not wanting tinned wires inside ferrals , and you must have ferrals . It`s total nonsense . Ferrals are a pain in the ass in a clamp connector and break much easier than a tinned wire . I`ve been using tinned wires and non tinned wires in clamp connection for the best part of 3 decades and never had an issue . I`m a qualified electronics tech with getting on 40 years experience and my own electronics services and repair company for 34 years and I keep hearing this complete and utter nonsense about these chinese alunimiun pieces of crap that people insist you put on the end of a wire and it drives me totally mad.....sheesh .....rant over ..lol
