I've got a customers 119 on my bench right now. This knife is damn stubborn. Hell of a job man. I had the same issue where some of my finer stones dulled the shit out of it. Stropped it out and got good results. Watched your video. Helped me get a customers knife back in their hands!
Just received a new 119 in 440C. I really enjoyed your video and think I will try to polish the edge a bit with a finishing hone. I purchased a Randall knife for my son for high school graduation and there are honestly more similarities than differences in these knives. Had to get him a Randall but there is a lot to be said for the Buck 119.
Thank you the vid! This was the first knife I bought back in 1984. I got the buck sharping kit . Studied the directions and figured I would learn how to keep it sharp. Well I never could get it even close to the edge it had when I got it. I figured I was just no good at it. I finally threw the knife in my old hunting gear box. The years go by and I don’t have any problem getting other my knifes sharp. I tried to get a nice edge again a few days ago. Again no good!!! What the hell. I decided to check RU-vid. Thanks you solved my 38 year old mystery!!!
How many stones came in the original buck sharpening kit? I bought one from eBay that has 3 stones a washita soft and a hard but looks like there is a spot for another one
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 when we moved to KY we moved to an 1100 foot 3 bedroom 1.5 bath with wife and 2 children under 5. I know it is rough. Happy it is improving for you
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 YA I AM TOO BUT WE'RE RETIRED THE WIFE AND I AND IT SUITS HER FINE ME NOT SO FINE LOL I HATE APARTMENT LIVING ALWAYS DEALING WITH BULL SH-T. LOL
First off big fan of the channel. You've really helped me "slow down" and enjoy the sharpening experience. Its become my beer after a long day kinda thing. Relaxing. Anyway, getting more comfortable with my arkansas but for some reason the blade curve to the tip iam having inconsistent results. Some turn out great others I just chase and chase. I seem to lift too much or too little. Any advice as to finding that perfect "lift"? Thanks again for all the great info
I'm also (re)watching your older videos. About knives, exept kitchen knives, always is better to have a more wider blade in the front part, and narrower to the handle. Nice stones, nice sharpening time. Have another like guaranteed!👍
ive got a new (old) rarely used 119 from '72-'86, and its got the same exact blade profile as this one. the knife being narrower closer to the guard is just how they came back then. Compare that to a brand new off the shelf 119 and its a lot different. this old design gives the front of the blade a lot more belly for slicing, compared to the new knives "belly" that looks a lot more like a kabar clip point.
Hey, Chris, Sorry I was slow on the draw, but I'm out of high-speed until Saturday...took forever to watch. Best video I've seen yet (for selfish reasons). What I mean is....I can think of Case "Tru-Sharp" stainless....I've pushed them with Arkansas stones to that "slick" point you spoke about where the "bite" disappears. Hell, it's sharp...but a different sort of sharp. I've started to developed a theory about it....coming from what I know about woodworking, Japanese cooking and being a butcher in the Navy. Polished edges are what you want for cutting "along the grain" ,as in wood or making precise fancy cuts in fish for sashimi with really thin blades...or razors, for that matter...if it's a thin blade. But, you dont want it for cutting down through a big chunk of meat. You need that "bite" you were talking about. When you encounter gristle or the "silver skin" on a muscle...yes, a polished edge will cut it, but, you have to apply pressure and it throws off the accuracy of the cut. That's why the Norton Tri-Hones go up to soft Arkansas, max, and those awful Tru Hone electric sharpeners that are used in so many butcher shops come with 220 (American) grit, standard. That and a steel power's a lot of meat cutting. It was great to see you sharpening knives for a fellow who uses them and you knew what for. I thought it was genius for you to catch what was happening after you hit that hard Arkansas. Good on you, Boy! Cheers, Wayne
Thanks Wayne, and you are 100% right about the actual cut being off. I really don't get into advanced Sharpening much because alot of folks don't understand it. You may have just give me an idea for a video. 🤫
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Super! Glad my ideas give you ideas....that's how this whole thing works! Can't wait to see you tackle that Grimalkin.....that's probably another knife....for what you'd use it for .....that should be left "toothy" or with "bite". We'll all get this terminology down after a while to where we know what's being said....I used to work in an auto body shop. I dont think we spoke English in there half the time! LOL!
May I please ask you a question?. Would you recomend water stones or oil stones for a learner? I thank you for your concideration of my question, sir; Regards.
Another good job bud! What is the cause of metal doing that? I have ran into that with some 1095. I have carried a 80t Old Timer for over 20 years & now it does that to me. Could it be from being sharpened so many times over the years?
I believe it’s something with the steel I had it happen on a old timer from the 70s and it’s been sharpened a bunch and the blade is getting wore down a lot I think what causes it is something with the way they heat treat the knives and slowly you get into the parts without as good of a heat treat
I've got Marbles Deluxe Arkansas stones. Soft and Hard Black. Never lapped it after received it, It's a joy to use but both start to burnished. Can a sandpaper be sufficient to lap these stones?
I've been thinking about picking up the 119 Pro in S35VN. I own a Buck 110 that I bought In 1978 and I"ve got a newer Buck Compadre in 5160. What are your thoughts on the 119 in S35VN?
That stone would probably be considered a #1 by anyone else but Dan's. Their grading system is uncompromising, and one of the biggest reasons to shop them. Period.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 , Mike is right....I bought a #1 8×3×1 Washita from Dan's....much denser than any "Washitas" I've encountered before. Also, if you get one from Dan's, it will have NO voids in it. That's why they don't advertise them. They probably have a ton of rock that would be comparable to another companies Washitas but they won't ship less than perfect ones.
Norton oil stones are under appreciated. I think the India gives better edges and the Crystolon is better for heavy reprofiling but they are so comparatively inexpensive that having both is no big deal. As Rooster's video shows, a combo version of either paired with a soft Arkansas is a heck of a coarse-medium-fine "system" for not a lot of money...and only two stones. That said, as I understood more about sharpening and got better at it, I learned that if you will take your time and carefully de-burr with a fine India you can get some really good edges with it that will shave arm hair and slice phone book paper but still have a lot of "aggression" aka tooth.
Start alternating. If it took 20 strokes to raise then 20 to get to the other side drop to 15 on each side, 10 then 5, then 3, 2,1 then 20 - 30 one stroke each side. My opinion anyway.
Bama fan is right. If you'll flip it back and forth and lessen the number of strokes each time till your flipping back and forth it'll drastically reduce the burr. Then strip of needed
Mister I don't have a fancy Stone like yours but I have a buck 119 who regrettably to say pretty much ate at the edge of my file and is resisting my stone would you agree that maybe I have maybe and older buck 119
That's easy enough to find out. The tank stamp will tell you the age of the knife. Just google how old is my Buck? and it will take you to the chart that says how old it is. Each year they make a different stamp so they can easily be dated.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 true, but unless I read it wrong, he's just wondering if his 119 is old or not, and he can find that out from the chart..maybe not an exact year, unless it's post 86, but at least an idea of if it's pre 86 or not, and thereby an idea of if it's 420hc or not
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Dear sir: I watched one of your videos on you tube and I'm very impressed with your talent, I have had this knife since about 1974 or 75, I got it brand new and it had a terrible edge on it, I tried myself many different methods and nothing worked also other people tried to sharpen it and no success, and it got very scratched up and almost ruined, finely I sent it to someone to sharpen and they did get a pretty decent edge on it but it's not very consistent I don't think, at any rate I'm not completely satisfied even though it will cut.. and I cleaned up the scratches as best i could.After watching you sharpen another model 119 I really would like for you to try if you don't mind, the knife has a lot of sentimental value and if you aren't interested I'll certainly understand. Thank you for your time and for ressponding to my comment.
What degree angle are you holding at when swiping that blade across them stones 22° just guessing get the health issues taken care of your daughter needs her old man around for along time thanks .
You can't sharpen at a specific degree freehand. I just pick the knife up and where my hand lays is how I sharpen it. Never had a issue with this. The degree thing in the community is pretty comical
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I'm kinda stupid but I have a question about your comment, I'm getting into sharpening knives and when you said where your hand lays, do you mean that you angle it with the old edge as best as you can?
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 thank you for responding so fast! I appreciate it, when I get in my stones, you care if I send you a clip of a couple of passes just to make sure I got it down?
This is usually where I insert the "that's what she said," joke. But I can't do it. Not to Mike. You're too lovable. I enjoyed the photography vid the other day, buddy. Hope you are well.
Never put presure with your fingers, on any blade part, that it's not touching the stone. Obviusle, this stone is norrow for that blade length, but it's your techinc, that can't sharpen properly, rather than the stone. You also don't keep the same angle degrees on both sides, you do the same mistake we all do and keep a higher angle when sharpening towards our selves. Just remember, you never put your fingers on the blade part, that doesn't touch the stone, no matter how rock solide the blade is. Always put your 3 fingers, on the blade part, that touches the stone.
Sorry, but you are incorrect. I don't make the same mistakes as everyone else. This knife came out perfect, as do all my others. For you to attempt to criticize and critique my methods is pretty comical. I think you should take a look at some of the other videos.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I was trying to help. I'm sorry if I hurt you, that was not my intention. I guess I'm to old for internet. I'm sorry son
That's where low alloy steels really suffer. That old 420hc will get slick as cow slobber if you take it very high. Around 80 micron is as fine as I will go on 420hc. Keep it in the 80-100 micron range as your finish stone and finish with a couple passes on some 15 micron diamond on hard leather. Will leave you a fantastic edge with tons of bite and really will get the most out of 420hc. Take it much finer then that and you will get slick and have a poor preforming edge that will give up extremely quick just from loosing all its bite. In soft low alloy steels like 420hc all your cutting performance is in the micro serrations the stone creates (due to having no carbide volume to create bite/tooth in the apex thru use). A hard ark is imho way to fine of an edge for steels like this, I could see a good quality soft ark but that is even to fine imo. For me it would be 80 to 100 micron in resin diamond stones or diamond film or if it's on water stones I would finish on like a shapton glass 500 (30 micron). Remember when im saying a 80 micron finish I'm speaking exclusively to resin diamond stones like my Venev Dragon stones or some custom 3x8 Metallic bonded cbn stones I had made for me. In your more traditional grit scale (JIS) I would finish around 500g/30um. Another really fantastic finish stone for buck done 420hc is just a good old Dia-Sharp course. I'm not saying your wrong in taking it that fine so please don't take it that way, I'm simply explaining how I finish steels like this. I have done plenty of cut testing on different mediums to see where edges hold up the best and maintain bite the longest and I can safely say that in a JIS scale 600 would be the absolute finest I would ever finish it with the peak in edge retention while maintaining bite would be off a Venev F150 or a Shapton glass 500. There is nothing more I hate then a slick edge, I want to feel those micro serrations bite my fingers as soon as I touch that edge with the lightest of pressure.
Different batches of the steel can have different results. I got 2 buck 119s in 420hc one is 2 or 3 years old and the other is about 12 the older one I sharpen up to a soft Arkansas and then a white and green compound and it gets really sharp the new one if I go past a Norton fine india it’ll get that slick feeling. I’ve found tho if I sharpen it up to a soft and then use some black compound to bring the tooth back and leave it and it’s plenty sharp.
You never say what grit your using you only naming the company of the stone and that's no help to anyone, Or you're going to show how to shaping our knife or represent the maker of the stone put it in a different video.
