Bucking F-150: Bucking & Jerking During Light Acceleration & Other Drivability Issues 

Great to hear! Glad it took care of the problem!

Awesome man! Good luck!

Heck yeah man! Glad I could help.

I’d be interested to know if the restrictor plate works on the 5.0. If you don’t mind, let me know how it goes.

@@HotRodsHowTos For sure. it's still winter here so I probably wont get to it until March since I dont have a garage to work in.

Hello what happened please any update because my truck do the same what is in video

@nassera7322 it turned out to be the ECM. There are lots of youtube videos explaining this. I got an OBD1 to start with and replaced the TPS along with soldering new resistors in my ECM. Problem fixed. I didn't have to use the restrictor plate. Best of luck

​@@lupegalvan9993I can't believe you followed through on your reply 5 months later ❤ good on you homie

That’s great to hear man! I’m glad you got some use out of the video.

Awesome man. Sounds like you got a great deal! Thanks for commenting.

Thanks man. Glad I could help. I’m in between Collinsville and Gadsden, so I’m not too far from you. I’ve got more videos coming. I’ve been extremely busy with work, but I’ve finally gotten caught up. So I should have some new videos soon.

Awesome. Good luck

😂

Thank you! I’m going to be honest. I feel like my videos suck. 😂. So your compliment is very much appreciated. Sounds like you’ve got a good tow rig. In a few years I’ll have to find something to tow with myself. I really don’t want to tow with my f150. (Not enough room for the family and it’s geared too high,2.73). Guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it. Thanks again!

@@HotRodsHowTos Keep at it and you will get more views because your info is good. There is a saying that each video is like a cup, the more you put out the more rain they will catch. Something like that, you get the idea. ;-)

I’ll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks!

Thanks. Intermittent issues are the worst! And you’re right about aftermarket parts. Right now, my truck has developed a random miss/stumble at idle. (Not always, but most of the time). When I run a diagnostic check, it comes back as “Spark Output Wire Open”. So, I’ve either got: A) a short. (Which I doubt) B) weak signal from the PIP sensor in the distributor. (I replaced the distributor last year). C) Bad ignition Control Module (which was replaced 3 years ago)…. So is it something new, or garbage aftermarket parts that are beginning to fail? 🤷🏻‍♂️ Anyway, enough of my yammering. Good luck with your truck. I hope you figure it out.

It’s a highly effective method 😂

Good luck man. Hope you get it fixed.

Thanks for the tip. I’m sure that’ll be on the list of things to fix soon. lol.

Good luck! I hope it fixes your issue.

did this fix ur issue?

@@Nicktaylorfishing fixed mine

Hard to say, but it’s great place to start. Good luck!

Hard to say. I’d run a diagnostic check to see if it’s throwing any codes. (It probably won’t, but ya never know). Someone else had commented and their situation sounded a lot like yours. He ended up having to replace the ECM to fix the issue. Sorry I can’t be of more help. Good luck.

$778… that’s an odd number 😂. I suspect some heavy negotiations were taking place lol. Sounds like you did good on both of them. I got mine in 2020 as well (October). Got it for $1600. It’s a turd, as you’ve seen in the video, but I think I did pretty good on it…. And I love it. So that helps a lot. 😂

It would be immediate. If it still bucks after disconnecting the egr and blocking the vacuum line, you’ve got another issue.

I think the first thing I’d do is check for vacuum leaks. Also check the Ford Truck forums. I did a quick Google search of the symptoms you described, and a lot of stuff popped up of people having the same problems. Keep searching, you’ll get it figured out. Good luck.

@@HotRodsHowTos yup just checked my truck last night and the egr pipe is broken

If you haven already, look at lupegalven’s comment and read through the replies. His issue ended up being the ecm. I’m beginning to wonder if the egr restrictor plate is just a bandaid for a bigger issue. You’re not the first person I’ve heard of with an egr delete, and still having this issue. My truck has recently developed a stumble at idle. Diagnostics say it’s “spark output wire open”. Research suggests it’s 1 of 3 things. 1) short in the spark output wire 2) bad PIP sensor in the distributor 3) faulty ECM. 🤷🏻‍♂️ who knows 😂 Thanks for commenting and good luck!

Sorry, I don’t have any experience with those. But what you’re describing doesn’t sound like a transmission issue to me. It sounds more like an engine sensor. Like a throttle position sensor or mass airflow sensor…. Or maybe you’ve got a misfire. I know you changed plugs, but what about coils? Is it throwing any check engine codes? Again, I don’t have any experience with them. I’m just throwing some things out there. I wish I could tell you more.

I definitely appreciate it but have not changed those things you just named code is a p0135 but I definitely appreciate it

@jca8586 Well I don't see how it would still have an 02 sensor code if you changed the 02 sensor. If you replaced them with a cheap ebay or Amazon sensor throw them in the trash and buy a Denso sensor. If not you need to check the plug for the 02 sensor make sure it's getting power and check the 02 sensor itself if it's working correctly there's youtube videos on how to all you need is a multimeter. The bank 1 02 sensor can make the car run bad. But before you do all that clear the codes and see if the code comes back, if you don't have a scan tool you can just unhook the battery. Don't go on a wild goose hunt focus on the code that it's giving you first.

Hmmm. Odd that it’s only doing it when you shift into 2nd… I’m assuming it happens when you’re letting off of the clutch and getting back on the throttle? What happens when you leave from a dead stop? Is there any hesitation?

In my experience, when a catalytic converter gets clogged it smells like rotten eggs when it’s running. You should notice some sort of funky smell if it’s the cat. If the engine rpm’s come up, but the car isn’t accelerating like it should, it’s probably a transmission issue. Low fluid will cause that. When you check the fluid level, look at the color. It should be red. If it’s brown, you’ve got issues. I don’t know the fluid level check procedure on a Honda, so you’ll have to do a little research. On a domestic car you: 1) get the car up to operating temperature 2)) put the transmission in “drive” for a few seconds 3) put the transmission back in “park” and check the fluid level. FYI, running a transmission low of fluid can damage it. Hopefully everything is ok.

Can you describe what it’s doing? If I don’t know, maybe someone else can chime in.

Same here I’ve got a 94 I6 he explained my issue exactly. I just rebuilt the engine new pistons cam lifters rockers bearings IAC TPS MAP knock sensor deleted EGR with a 1/4” pipe plug deleted the cat new exhaust new injectors new fuel filter and pump. It idles so quiet and smooth but when you come off idle it intermittently will stumble-stall-buck or shut off. I will not throw the towel in I’ve got many things I’m going to check test or replace. I’m amazed of the amount of people having the identical issues but no one nailing the problem down, this is a very evasive persistent gremlin.

@@dj6769 These things are built to eat up all your money, put a carburetor and HEI distributor, put the EFI where it belongs, a dumpster, all it does is have you chasing issues, the ECM itself was built to fail, capacitors leak out, often destroy the board, the caps in it have a 10 year life span.

It’s your throttle position sensor then.

Can you be a little more specific?

I appreciate the feedback 👍🏻