If you want a cheap, entry level axe and you're working to a budget, Ben is now offering these Bahco axes. Reground, modified and restored to an razor sharp Orford cutting edge. Bahco Axe Upgrade: bit.ly/35LgHHi
what a nice idea. I did the same thing starting out with a cheap hardware shop axe and improving it. Learned a lot about what I wanted from an axe in the process and how to maintain one properly before I bought a gransfors.
Great video and good to see an offering (as you've said) for those on a budget. I bought my Hultafors about 35 years back and put a longer handle on it - it's still going strong.
Great video, and glad to see you are reaching out to the budget limited bushcrafter also. The axe/hatchet I use is a Silverline, which I applied an edge to using a flap wheel on my grinder, then finished with a DC3 stone and a strop (took forever). It cuts really well, but these cheaper axes do not hold an edge as well as the premium axes. It just means you have to be more meticulous with your sharpening regime, and be prepared to occasionally sharpen in the field. Another hint for a sheath, is to use a strip from an old belt, and hold it in place with some shock cord. Looks rough as a badgers backside, but protects you and the axe. 😂 I will probably have one of these Bahco axes from you as my primary hatchet, and put a different bevel on my Silverline for very delicate work. Keep making the great videos. Steve.
It's like you read my mind! I was pondering my need for an axe only a few hours ago! I'm a forest school leader, so I've have the pleasure of using good quality axes on a regular basis but I just can't justify the cost for the amount of use it will get at home. I can't wait to get one of these. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the video, Ben!!! Love that mirror edge on the axe! So satisfying! Quick question: comparing your modified bahco axe to a gransfors axe, which is a better first axe? Would the gransfors be more suited to a more experienced carver?
If i may answer to this question, the bacho would be the better option for carving over the gransfors. Mostly because it has a bit mor weight to it and a longer cutting edge. Just the handle needs s bit thinned down for better grip.
Use a mill file for heavy material removing and the first rough shaping. Worked with a similar axe shaped object I own and use. Then I used sandpaper on a piece of mdf as a coarse 'stone', then a small, cheap, two sided oilstone (use them like the puck in one of Ben's axe sharpening vids), then some leather on a piece of wood with polishing paste (apparently tooth paste supposedly works as well). Cheap, but a lot of work. Still, I learned a bit about sharpening. More cost effective (unless you work for free) is buying the Orford version. Also a better end product, because he has the skills I lack (it's his job, after all!).
Alda make a better version with hickory handle, for a few quid more get the professional version, two different weights and a couple of quid difference. Really nice for carving. I have had a bahco for years. Take the paint of and scrape the handle and oil it. Great hatchet. The make the axe in a press, stock steel is heated then shape in a press under great pressure several times. The scrap metal is cut from around the edge. Then the axe shape has a eye punched in. Then then are ground. Ten minutes sharpening and it's ready!
funnily enough I've modified one of these myself, the orange paint is horrific. great for working on tree surgery jobs as the horrid colour means you wont lose it. The wedge is terrible too. I used a pair of round head brass screws in a wooden wedge . I also bearded it to get rid of a little of the weight as it was too heavy for delicate stuff. Then I gave it away.......time for a new one .
This is one of our camelia oil applicators that are available on our store here’s a link benandloisorford.com/store/#!/Camellia-Oil-Applicator/p/52141242/category=13646583
I have one and got a good edge on it but I found the edge does peel over slightly and needs quite regular touch up sharpening. They are cheap, my go to axe now is a stubai side axe, superb bit of steel on that one
In fact, hickory and ash have the same abilities. Just because people try to lure more money out of your pocket by making you believe, hickory is so superior, it not necessarily has to be true.
Ash is more shock dampening in my experience Hickory tends to be harder and less vulnerable to chunking out if you miss the target. But also Ash has fewer shipping miles on it which is worth considering.
@@kurts64 maybe it is from high speed steet that is possible to cast, but normal carbon steel such this one is forged... Big anvils is casted from steel but it is special steel and big object
@@kurts64 yea, steels for casting is expensive and proces itself namely casting is more expensive than casting... Look at wranglerstar, he said that bahco is very poor quality, he made whole video about bahco axe
Wonderful, everyone has a commercial grade sharpening assembly in the back shed and a dream work shop. How about an Axe / Bastard file, a puck shaped two sided stone that is portable and viable in the bush. These are not axes, they are hatchets and are dangerous in the wrong hands.
Well we have spend extra time grinding it and getting it working so it’s razor sharp out of the box. Unfortunately we cant do that for free so there is a up charge for that service 👍
