Looks like a good amp. For the price, it probably would be perfect for a daily driver setup. Most budget amps will probably last if you aren't trying to play them at 1 ohm mono at full blast all day. I have a coworker that has a 70 dollar boss amp that has lasted him going on 7 years now.
For the most part even cheap electronics will work for a couple of years. I don't know enough about electronics to tell you if this is built well or not. But it definitely makes the power!
If it's a 1 ohm stable amp, and it dies running a 1 ohm load, your gain wasn't set properly or you were playing shitty music and clipping, clipping is what destroys a amp, it heats it up super quickly and as we all know, amplifiers have a thermal limit just like any other electronic
another nice thing about angled power terminals. If you are using ferrules, the screw will bite into the ferrule and pinch, making it more difficult to pull the wire out.
This was an easy video to watch. I can't put my finger on it, but something about how you did the wattage test this time seemed to work a lot better, not that the first one was bad -- but you've got it really dialed in with this one. I hear what you're saying regarding actual real-world wattage figures and cost-per-watt being more important than what's printed on the box, but I would still prefer an accurate figure because unless you watch a video with an amp dyno run, you're purchasing based on false information. But, this amp in particular got pretty close at least. As your speaker demo test confirms. It's not as easy as just pushing watts into a resistor bank and taking a reading. I've purchased a BUNCH of non-car amps from China with dubious wattage ratings. Nowadays, I usually look at the Chip spec sheet to see what the chip can actually do based on manufacturers data which gives me a good idea of what to expect with the amp. I know you can't really do that with the car amps -- they don't necessarily divulge their choice of chips, or the implementation layout they use. But I know that the wattage ratings on the little chip amps I get are at 10% distortion, but at least they can get there - technically speaking. I guess car amps are expected to get to their advertised ratings with a basically clean signal? I guess that's good! Just wanted to give you a thumbs-up on the video, 'twas good!
My comments on the power ratings are as much a comment on the state of the industry. It's not like testing an amplifier is hard, if some random knucklehead like me can do it then how come the big companies can't do it? If it says 500 watts on the box it ought to do 500 watts plus or minus some reasonable margin of error. I've also put a lot of thought into my editing style, and I'm getting better at planning out my shots before I start editing the video.
@DIYAUDIOGUY fyi amazon now list theese at $84.99. Now i dont have the 600 but i did buy the red1200.1 i play it everyday with my SKAR SVR12D2 800WATT RMS , its going on 4years now strong no issues.
I took the plunge. I got the Red600. I put it on place of a an old but Mmats d2000hc running 3 mmats 12s at .67 ohms. It is actually pretty surprising in power output and sound quality. Then swapped over to 2 Aulmapro 12bp's @ 1 ohm and again was impressed with the sound and power. I ran it pretty hard, mostly 90s early 2k rap and some metal mixed in. It did pretty damn well, it didn't get too thermal protection at any time, and the volume wasn't low except between tracks. The only noticeable sounds issue that carries over both sub setups was transient recovery, but on certain songs with a very fast drum beat, typically metal disk bass, in Metallica One it was noticeable during the heavy drums. With rap/hip hop it was very nice across the range from hard hitting songs like Rock Ross Box Chevy and deep bass like Master P pass me da green. Overall it's a great amp for the price!
wow man i havent heard anyone mention alumapro in a very long time i used to run 2 alumapro bp-12's in my 89 camaro back in the day on some rockford 301m amps
@@Rider-xsb it's funny how few people knew about them back in the day when they were new. They never really made the mainstream but if you went to competitions you'd see them. That's how I got into them, I was competing with the old school Cerwin Vega Stroker and , and the Alumapro rep saw me at Daytona Beach spring break nationals. He was so sure his gear would beat my setup they gave me all the gear up front and said if I followed his box design I would be able to win in SPL and SQ with the same setup. Turns out he was right!
@@sycoticone mine were the bandpass enclosures were removed the rear seats in the back of the camaro and built them into the cabin , would do 147db on music
You have incredible ears and understand music very well your ears heard the very low dampening factor of this amp which means I trust your opinion in this amp well done.
I just bought a bunch of the balupunkt 4000d amps for $50 each. They do right around 1000 rms @1ohm on an amp Dyno. Even the regular price of a little over 114 isn't bad.
Thank you for all your knowledge. You say the remote knob was upside down. When you got three or more amps half the time you got three or more remote knob so it's untelling what's going to be upside down.
I just wanna comment about the bass knob. The bass knob aka potentiometer has 3 terminals. Depending on which 2 of the 3 terminals are used, determines which way the resistance changes when you turn the knob. Most times a pot' will be wired where the resistance is at the max rating of the potentiometer, and as you turn the knob, the resistance will decrease allowing more current to flow. But if it's wired the other way, the resistance will be at 0 ohms or the minimum rating of the potentiometer, and as you turn the knob, the resistance will increase. As a result, resulting in less current flow. Or the circuit board may be inverted and there's an error with the Min and Max labeling like you said in the video...😄.
always great reviews and info!!!!!!! bought the little leiaghs amp 500d1 i saw you and big dee test on it. heck for 60$ never hooked it up. been setting in box in closet. but if i ever need it? its there.. lol !
Good video. I think my amp took a dump on me last night and I guess I am in the market for a budget amp until my finances are better. This one is on my radar now but I am hoping to find something closer to 1k. It still amazes me the dollars per watt you can get now days. I remember in the old days, I had a pair of the first gen Solo Baric 12s, when they were round instead of square, and had to wait months to save up for an amp that did them justice. Thanks for sharing, I always love a budget amp review and this one looks good.
Yea, this thing made a lot of power for the price. They offer a 1200 watt version. No reason to expect that it would not make its rated power. amzn.to/38SPurX Even if it falls short you still get 1k for only $135
I know some people don't like doing math but you seem like the type of guy that loves math problems. I think watt per $ would be great addition to the end of your amp Dyno videos.
@@Carl_Jr your right it wouldn't be helpful for people as soon as price changes. your also partly wrong about the power because some companies will use cheaper components to meet their profit goal. But DIY audio guy is 100% right when saying it doesn't always matter if a amplifier doesn't meet rated power because there are so many other factors with the biggest usually being price.
@@DIYAudioGuy please share. Recoil sponsored my channel and sent me that amp. Every recoil amp review ive seen they always exceed the max rating. Id love to know what it really does. It worked great with my setup tho.
i got one of their 4-gauge wiring kits and it seem pretty solid for 30 dollars. it was the same size as my stinger 4-gauge kit that was 100 dollars. This amp looks like a great value
I was told by an electronic repair shop owner it's unwise to run amps at lower then 4 ohms. He said if you want more power then what the amp puts out at a 4 ohm load then buy a more powerful amp. So I see a lot of folks running their amps at 1 or even less then 1 ohm when it's really ment to last at a 4 or maybe 2 ohm loads.
Most people that may have a 1ohm load wired aren't actually running at 1 ohm, sometimes it is much higher as evident in this video and particularly true if we are talking mids and highs with a active xover
That's a lot of amp for the money. And you get a bass knob with it too! It would be nice to know how efficient they are though. The efficiency of a bass amp can mean the difference between one that can perfectly fine on your car's stock 12V supply, and one that will be left starved for power at higher playback levels.
Seems like a good amplifier. The guts look exactly like a lot of the more expensive amps. Probably made in the same Chinese factory. Also, I don’t think you can hear the difference between 518 watts and 550 watts.
Williston seems not to think so.😂thanks for a good honest review.it didnt make rated 2 ohm but who cares.i have a power acoustik rzr 2500 for the price i have in my gear its great,i enjoy it.and it doesnt take 600$ in batteries and 200$ in wire to make noise.👍👍👍
I'm planning on purchasing RECOIL DI600.1 .The one you reviewed costs 50$. But is it worth that extra money in your opinion? Which one do you recommend, please? Thank you
I don't recommend products, I make reviews so that you can have more information when you're ready to make a decision. As far as I can tell the difference between the two amplifiers is that one of them is one ohm stable and the other is 2 ohms stable. So get the one that's going to work with the way you plan to wire your subwoofers.
I have that amp hooked to a pair of first gen magma 12s at 1 ohm and they make my subs wanna cry! And as for drop on wattage at 1 ohm never noticed. My point is you wanna good amp get a recoil there hella 😊
I was curious so I checked, those were the ratings that were on Amazon when I was editing the video. When I wrote my script I based my comparison to what was in the manual, then while I was eating I happen to notice that the ratings on Amazon were a lot more accurate.
At some point, yes. I am saving up for additional resistors so that I can load down 4 channels at 2 ohms. If you'd like to help out then click on that patreon link.
It looks like you're an Alpine guy. Do you have any thoughts on the Alpine s-a32f 4-channel amplifier vs the Alpine MRV-F300? They're both 4 channel and about the same rated output. Is one just an updated model of the other?
I'm not actually an Alpine guy. I have an Alpine amp and an Alpine head unit, otherwise I've not owned any Alpine stuff. I don't have any experience with either one of those pieces of equipment. But it's Alpine. It's got a great reputation. You know that it's durable and it has accurate specifications.
In your opinion do you think if you get a budget 500rms and a let’s say Rockford 500rms both make same power. Do you think one has better sound output over the other?
Assuming that both amplifiers are operating correctly, and both are operating within their intended power range, then all watts sound the same. The problem is the "operating correctly" part -- a lot of cheap gear ain't built right.
Thx for your review you did a great job! If someone was fallowing your video's they would know that this amp in a car on a woofer wired to A final impedance of 1 ohm, after "rise" you might get 300 wrms, so I don't think it will be the new the budget king witch we all know is Tramps SMART3.
One of the reasons why I'm doing the tests on the subwoofers is because I want a show that after we account for box rise and power factor we never get anywhere near the rated power. That really should be the take home lesson.
@@DIYAudioGuy I know that you know that impedance rise is not called "box rise" by anyone in the industry and yet you continue to use the term. The term is an misnomer and makes 99% of people think that the box is the cause of rise, all though impedance rise can very slightly from box to box it is never the root cause or the effect. and you are perpetuating endless people asking me a box builder how to build a box that don't have "box rise" PLZ stop plz. I'm not saying any of this to put you down or be a smart A, I'm truly trying to help you educate bass heads. Plz do the right thing.
I do, my price list and contact info is here: bit.ly/3IwIJLb I am not currently taking on design clients. I am a little busy with my day job. But I will be able to work on designs in a few months.
Got a question. When designing an enclosure for a sub with a slot port, lets assume we have infinite space. I need 4 cubic feet net + port. As i make the port wider the length must get longer. This begs the question is there suck thing as too big or too small even while keeping ratios proper. What are the pros and cons big port small port or is there a sweat spot in between? Does impedance rise get effected. And a bunch of other questions ?
If the port cross section is too small you get turbulence causes port noise, also known as chaffing. If the port is too long you end up getting pipe resonance.
your wrong my friend advertised power ratings rms 4 0hm 310 watts, 2 ohm 520 watts and 1 ohm 660 watts and 1000 watts peak power. this amps dyno was spot on buddy...
I trust Patrick and you so I’d buy this amp if i was in he market. I’m thinking of buying the 1200.1 at $134 bucks. Double the power for 30 more bucks would be budget god amp
@@DIYAudioGuy yep. The 600.1 just dropped to $94. But even better deal can buy the top strong gear 1500.1 amp for $139 plus $20 dollar coupon so right now $119.
I love how you test the amp with different speakers which also shows you how well speakers are made at the frequencies people like. I know there are thousands of subs and thousands of boxes, but have you ever done frequency stepping for the ohms? Plot it on a chart. for eg the kicker ohmage from 20-80.
I was on the fence between this & the CT Sounds 400 monoblock (only about 10 bucks more), after I heard you mention it was decent in that collab video you did several days ago ...I ended up settling for the CT. Both seem like good budget amps to power a modest sub in a car, which is what I am shooting for. Not looking to enter IASCA or anything! 😊
The big powerful lamps are the ones that get the most attention, but it's these small amps design for someone to put in their daily driver that sell the most units.
I'll try to work that in the future videos, the power supply was set for 14.4 volts I don't think this thing put any stress on the power supply at all.
@@DIYAudioGuy The guy that keeps being mentioned to you about Recoil products, Robot Underground. He pedals their products domestically after buying them in bulk from (I believe) China. Lives in one of Phoenix's many suburbs. Fellow commenter "Nate0" used to do a lot of business with him, before a dramatic fallout between the two. When I got back into the car audio scene (about 18 months ago), I researched the brakes off of *many* companies, Recoil being one of them. As a (then) "unproven" company, I strayed away from their electronics in favor of others, but I did buy their OFC RCAs (which I really like) and wanted to buy their Big 3 kit (which was unavailable for purchase) when I started buying things. So I can vouch for their wiring being of good quality, as I refuse to buy anything that doesn't meet high standards.
I installed a set of the $45 6.5 component sets and the $40 6x9s in a friends 06 impala a couple of months ago. They do pretty good on the factory radio. They could definitely use high pass crossovers or bass blockers but for $85 for all 4 corners, they're worth the money. I'd like to hear them on an amp though. I bet they would be even better.
Unfortunately these amp dyno videos are not very popular on my channel yet. So I can't really justify buying amplifiers just to test. Likes and shares go a long way towards helping videos like these take off. You can also help me test more amplifiers by supporting me on Patreon or you can hit the "thanks" button under the video. For now I'm just going to be testing amplifiers that I have on hand, or amplifiers that I plan to install in a build.
It’s junk, I want an amp that put out the power I’m buying for it’s intended purpose. If I’m running 2 subs with 600 watts rms in a sealed enclosure I want at least 600 watts. I want an amp that fights impedance rise, so I’ll keep paying for premium power. Good video so people know at least what there getting. Me I’m sticking to RF, Kicker, alpine.. etc.
I doubt that I have enough reach to drive the price up, and I hope that these things turn out to be durable in the long run. Nothing sucks worse than recommending a product that turns out to be a complete turd.
@@DIYAudioGuy You'll be amazed. I know every time Big D Wiz did a video, the prices went up afterward. I am not gonna chance it and at these prices, why not. the 1200W was $134 and the 4 95w @4ohms/channel was $99.
@@DIYAudioGuy Same. His shop is not too far away. Just seems like there s always some drama going on. Not a particularly great part of town either. Bunch of shady used car dealers and "massage" parlors.
Absolutely. I've powered the 12" sub with enclosure they offer plus a dual 10" Polk Audio loaded 4th order bandpass I've had for years with this amp and it is plenty powerful enough. Only running it to the single 12 as of now but I tried it on both just to see what was what when I first installed it. I am the one who just recently snagged this amp from Amazon on a return deal. This amp, a 4ga wiring kit plus the 12" sub in enclosure wired to 1 ohm at the terminals. What I can tell you for certain is that in my suburban with a 230 amp alternator and an optima red top battery powering this setup it just beats the floors at less than 1/2 gain on the amp. I have it set to just under clipping at max volume, from a pioneer avh 4500 nex head unit, set to flat eq, no boost and the sub enclosure pointed towards the front of my truck just behind the passenger rear seat. Knocks the hell out of my truck seriously. Based on the review of the guy who returned this package I'm guessing he either had insufficient power to supply it or just the wrong space to run it in. Either way I'm very glad I took the chance on it. It all showed up as new, no sign that it was damaged and still covered by Amazon return policy too. Even at full price for just the amp I may buy a second one to power a 4th order bandpass that could stand a little more juice than what my old bazooka ba1300 is throwing at it. Oh yeah, the recoil amp gets just slightly warm but never hot to the touch. From what I've seen so far it is quite efficient. I did replace the bass remote though, the one it came with is a reverse potentiometer. I used the rj11 style that Skar makes (still with a clip indicator) and it works perfectly with this amp. I hope this information may prove helpful in some way.
@@alexoviedo4023 It's definitely cheaper, not sure if this one puts out more power than the new version. But you could buy two of these for the same money as a new Alpine.
There's a lot more to any amp the JUST POWER. There's more sound quality, clarity , reliability, stability, audio filtering and more. An Alpine is gonna cost more and be better in every way. U always get what u pay for ( typicaly with dimminishing returns on value), you wanna drive a Kia..ok.... Or you wanna whip a BMW? They both do the same things, there just completely different.....
The price of a piece of audio equipment is typically more reflective of what the seller thinks potential buyers are willing to pay for it rather than the quality of the parts used within it. A case in point: my Alpine PDX-M12. Great amp in terms of its capabilities, that uses one of the cheapest switches that I've ever seen to adjust the gain range. And guess what failed in my Alpine PDX-M12? Yes, that same switch.
I feel like doing rated power is the least that an amplifier should do. You ever stop and think about just how low that bar is? That is literally the bare minimum
the power output is no more important than how the final signal is being reproduced. The quality of the end signal is CRUCIAL and often times ignored over the exaggerated obsession towards power. This is the exact reason why only a few amps amaze us with their output in terms of clarity. The rest may be ok but will never reach that clarity, as said, ignored over the power costs. It may look like a clean wave but there is far more beyond
@@DIYAudioGuy So is THD. I doubt anyone would be able to hear 1% THD in a bass amp driving a subwoofer, unless perhaps that THD is happening at midrange frequencies, LOL. For a full-range amp however, YMMV. I still doubt it would be audible in a car audio environment, particularly when you're driving said automobile and dealing with 60+ dB background noise...
"Rated power means absolutely nothing". "Power rating isn't that important". You must have bumped your head before saying that. I will guess that less than 1% of people have the knowledge and or ability to dyno they're amps. Power rating is one of if not the most important things to look at when buying an amplifier. I have been watching your videos for a while now and I just can't believe those words came out of your mouth. Also, the Sundown Audio SFB 600D is 112 dollars and puts this thing to shame.
I say that because any company can slap any number they want on the outside of the box. Some of them will write 500 on the outside of the box knowing the amp will do 600. It's a marketing ploy so that will all think it's a higher quality amp and will pay extra for it.
@@DIYAudioGuy I understand that in this particular instance the numbers didn't match up so they meant nothing to you. Buy from a good reputable brand and the rated watts means everything. That is literally how people know what they are getting. To the ignorant the numbers mean nothing but a simple google search to find a reputable brand is all it takes so I would never go as far as to say what you said. False advertising does not equate to ignoring what the ratings are. Plenty of good brands sell affordable audio equipment now days that will do exactly what they advertise.
@@DIYAudioGuy isnt damping factor important too when it comes to amplifiers? i heard that could be a difference between a sloppy sounding amp and a more controlled clean amp
