Working on the Buick Turbo T Type WH1 First cleaning in 20 years First we get her home Then we get it cleaned out. Naming this project Rusty Wallace #grandnational #ttype #turbobuick #barnfinds
Been collecting parts and doing little things Unfortunately she is in bad shape. She may never be perfect but she will see the road again. Have new floors and brake system ready to go.
Can we get the upper control arm off the Grey thuck in the background anyone... great vid by the way keep it going .you have the tools now to rock it. 100 sub party..
It’s a learning process. Cant become Scorsese over night. If I could of got a shot of the mouse jumping out and making me scream like a child it may of been more entertaining. Thanks for watching anyway.
The seat drive could be one of a few things. Most likely is that the plastic coupling between the motor and gearbox has broke, Take the flex cables off the transmission or track and drive the tracks to remove the bolts/ nuts holding the track to the floor. Take the sear assembly out, and clean and lubricate those little mechanisms with white lithium grease. Other case would be the transmission case is broken. Then it is FUBAR; Get the drive system from a 1987 or newer GM car to replace that plastic housing with a metal unit and different set-up but fits and works. Those window seals at the top of the door are kind of unique to Turbo-Regal cars. You can get aftermarket ones with the chrome on the top, just scuff the chrome and paint with flat or semi-gloss trim paint. BE SURE TO USE TRIM PAINT!!! Water gets around those seals and eats the door from the inside at the bottom, and the smallest trash plugs the tiny drains.
I’m going to deal with engine and brakes first but when it’s time for body work. I’m gonna have it painted just like she looked off the assembly line. Debating on the stock wheels. I have them but they are not my favorite.
@@RothschildsMisfitGarage Those factory 84/85 T-type wheels are a royal PITA to change tires on roadside, with those deep holes trying to start the lug nuts. If it came with the 86/87 type wheels, they are easier, but more of a pain to clean and keep clean, plus those durn plastic caps just keep falling off.
The floor rot can be caused by a couple of things, and neither are nice nor easy to fix. The easy cause would be the drain for the A/C being plugged. Simply clean the housing drain rubber tube and give it a coat of spray silicone. The next cause could be the deteriorated seal around the A/C 'suitcase'. NO FUN!!! gotta take the front clip off to remove the 'suitcase'. The worst case is if the body A pillar to firewall seam filler has cracked, was incomplete, or was missing. Again, the entire front clip has to come off. The reason the BACK floor is rotted is that water runs down the firewall, and goes into the wiring channel by the door, and empties by the rear seat footwell. Isn't this going to be SO much fun???.
My brother has owned this since early 90s. I drove it when I was in highschool. It has been sitting since 2004. I finally got it off of him and will make it street worthy again.
If you are going to keep that style engine, I recommend that you get the conversion kit to upgrade to the 86/87 style of coil pack and ignition module I believe the source is Casper's Electronics.. You do NOT want to price those parts for 84/85 engines. Also, changing out that power antenna is another fun job. Here's some hints. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7tVuhpq1qK8.html I recommend getting a universal mount aftermarket antenna with a drain tube on the housing and lube that mast with lightweight machine oil regularly.
Also, if you want to retain the original antenna drive instead of an aftermarket antenna, follow this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K3NSDncm7jk.html. I hope that you have the original antenna base screw-in thingy...Get a heavy cord to guide the antenna out of the fender when you loosen that one mounting screw with the built-in star washer That holds the actual antenna mount to the fender, It will be the last screw you take out.. I have found that using a 2x4 chunk holds the fender at the right gap to remove the unit. The string will pull the antenna through the hole Run a cord on the three wire plug from the inner fender relay. Yes, it will be a LOT easier to reinstall later.Take the 10mm bolts out of the inner fender to the outer fender. You will HAVE to use 1/4 inch drive, extensions and universal joint with socket. to access in the door gap. Put masking tape and cardboard on the door leading edge to avoid paint damage. I really can't remember if you have to take the screw off the fender bottom or not; it takes a 15 mm socket. Presoak that bolt with a good solvent like PB'laster (My favorite)
@@RothschildsMisfitGarage let me know if you need pointers of getting more horsepower. If you never heard of this company call work trouble chargers they are so good with the 84 and 85 with turbos. I love the turbo I recommend 5857 turbo
I appreciate it. I need lots of help with her. My knowledge of this car is from day dreams as a kid. Now I’m absorbing all the knowledge I can. Thank you. 👍🏻
