How to safely build an "Industrial" top-rope anchor from two bolts. Climbing is dangerous! This video is not designed to replace certified instruction which remains the best and most fun method of learning the art of climbing
Great content on your videos. This is a good top rope anchor, only tweak I would do is having a longer sling to avoid the screw carabiners be loaded over the rock edge (looks like they might be). Also, if you have a larger party, or working on the route, you might want some beefier slings (or cord) that can take a beating. Thanks for posting good content!
Just watched all four of your videos, really informative and to the point, loved them! I have a question though: isn't it somewhat dangerous to secure yourself to the bolt using a sewn sling given that you're sitting above the bolt? Would you consider using rope or cordelette instead or is a sling fine in a situation like this?
A sling is perfectly fine in this situation. The reason you’re asking is because a factor 2 fall on a “semi static” sling. First off a faLL IS INCREDIBLY unlikely using his technique displayed in this video. However, If he were to fall, the fall he’d take here would be what I’d like to call a ‘scrambling fall’. One where his body would drag along the rock, he’s grab at something, ext. This would create a much smaller fall factor than a FF2. Hope this helped out 🙂
If you fall on your personal anchor (the sling ) the shock willl be of more than 2 000 kilogrammes and probably your sling will break! Take care , never fall on a sling and never more than coefficient of fall of 0,2 with a sling so you have the right just at 20 cms of fall by meter of sling!
It looks like the rope is still going to rub against the rock face. Would this be an issue or is the rope strong enough to handle this amount of rubbing?
The rope is strong enough considering the rock isn't at a particularly sharp angle. There will be some rubbing and some amount of wear (though not much in this scenario) to the rope's sheath. One thing you could do in this situation is bring something to pad the rock, like a dense foam mat, towel, cut of carpet, or something like that. Especially helpful if there are sharper angles involved. You could also make an anchor out of some static cord as well and have it be long enough to extend past the edge. This way your less expensive piece of rope will take the wear that would otherwise be put on your climbing rope, which is a bit more costly to replace.
This is an awful demonstration. Not only is he cross loading the carabiners which is very dangerous. The rope will be rubbing against the rock when the climber is lowered. Too bad people with no knowledge can call themselves guides and "teach" other people.
he doesn't crossload any of the biners I dont think, and the rope wear is unfortunate but is not immediately dangerous and just means you have to replace your rope sooner. There is no cutting action on the rope in one spot.
@@ianproctor8069 look at the angle the carabiners against the cliff edge. They are designed to be loaded along the long axis, with only opposing forces. When loaded, the rock will be pushing against the middle of those carabiners, creating another force, and making them weaker. I understand this guy is just doing a demonstration, but he should be using a slightly longer sling for this anchor.
