How to Top Rope Outside 

For sure, our next part in the series will be natural anchors. You don’t need any trad gear.

For sure. Good suggestion

Thanks!

For sure… def gotta only apply if you built the quick draw in that way

That’s why it’s smart to use at least one locker when utilizing the double quick draw method.

@@mdbernsten I definitely agree. The person who set up that anchor has since taken that advice to practice!

I use the quad almost exclusively on bolted belays… and single master point almost exclusively on trad anchors

Sport anchors commonly have links connected to chains, mussy hooks, or rappel rings at the very top. It's there for rappelling when people put their rope through at the end of the day. The oval carabiner (screw link) allows experienced climbers to replace the attached gear later if it shows signs of wear or age. You're only supposed to lower through the gear at the very end or rappel down. Your rope would get damaged really fast if you put it just though a bolt. The rings allow the rope to pass without a hard edge like a bolt would have. I know this comment is months old, but if you're interested look at the other two videos on this channel - rock climbing and rappelling master class and how to clean climbing anchors on this channel. Rappelling is extremely dangerous and usually no one is there to double check so it's important to get every step right. Always make a plan on the ground first before going up for the last climb. Person A: I'm going to climb up, attach my personal anchor, then you can go off belay and I will rappel. Person B: Okay sounds good I will belay you to the top, then wait for you to get attached with the personal anchor, then I will go off belay so you can feed the rope for the rappel.

No downside, just takes longer and is heavier. You can do this if you want extra security because you can’t see the anchors or are doing a lot of laps.

@@summitseekersexperience Thanks!

I was wondering the same thing!

Nearly all areas have bolts at the top.

Mmm I’d say it’s situational… if the climber is traversing, close knots will prevent engagement of both bolts. But your comment about shockload is important

Yep

Even in slings? Just wondering not questioning your knowledge. I just heard overhands are okay in cordalette or static rope but overhand in dyneema or nylon slings is 40% loss compared to the 25% in a figure 8 knot. Could have been incorrect

@@Addictedclimbers for sure… no I didn’t take it as a challenge at all… yeah there’s the fact that the sling will become weaker with an overhand which it does… by about a 35-40% reduction. But the sling is doubled up and was probably rated for 24 kN so 48 kN total… reduce by 35-40% and you got like 30 kN so still super good. The hownotto guys did a break test on a sling quad and it was like 30-40 kN

Appreciate you taking the time to reply! And for sure, I can make the quad with the over hand a little quicker and more efficient with since it’s a little easier to tie so wanted ask, and reassure myself! Keep up the videos man!!! 🤙🏼

Mmm… it’s not so much the money… lockers are more cumbersome and heavier… it’s more a question of if risk exists. If I’m outside belaying my two kids on a 40 foot route that I can see the anchors, vs outside belaying an entire 20 person Boy Scout group on a 100 foot route where I can’t see the anchors… I may use extra lockers in one of those situations…

Tons of guides really like them. Guides climb often so they must be worth the price…

There are benefits for both options. Short answer, you're not likely to go completely above the anchor and if you fall you're above unlikely to accidentally unclip both. It's also less playing around. Less noob safe what I like : I normally go for an auto locker on one side of the bolts and one in the rope path this endures nubies are less likely to unclip themselves.