This is great. As an addition I’d set the router bit on specific heights and then mark the handle position on the box. That way you would exactly know the height when you need to set it next.
That would change depending on how far you stuck the bit in the collet. The height of the bit sticking out of the router is a variable that the handle position doesn’t account for.
Been looking at about a dozen such projects and this looks like the best and simplest option. The lever lift mechanism with the fulcrum (and I'll be shouting Pivot! Pivot! every time I use it... when you know ) definitely works for me rather than the convoluted screw mechanisms. Loving the honesty of the presentation, warts and all, very entertaining.
Hi, I watched this, saved it, came back to it and have happily downloaded the plans! Very clear and easy to follow and of course if I stumble I can always come back and watch again. Thank you
I've been tinkering with power tools for a pretty long time but I only now, because of this video, learned a router collet extension existed... I really need one of those to make my life a lot easier
This is the best solution I have seen so far for a router lift for a plunge router, well done and thank you for sharing. I will be buying your plans so I can modify my router table. Thanks Geoff.
Dan, I think I have watched just about every router lift video out there, and yours really catches my attention. But!! I passed on your idea because it doesn’t have a micro-adjust feature, until I had a thought cross my mind. What about incorporating a vertical screw-adjust feature in the height lock block? With my addition to your design, I think I will build a router lift with your innovations.
Now I understand why it took so long for you to get the video out. I have to say your video was more informative than just about all the other lift builds I have watched. Great Job. And lets try to avoid .. BLOOOOOD!!!! :-)
This is a great project. i have been watching video's all day to figure out what i want to do to lift my plunge router. i have one thats odd its not as easy as a lot of them typically lol
I'm in the middle of making something like this, and your plans have given me lots of ideas for improvements. I plan to add a micro-adjuster screw to the lever lock so I can get really accurate cuts.
LOL. I just made a comment to Dan about adding a screw micro adjust. Then I decided to read some of the other comments. Great minds think alike think alike.
Great project Dan! I will definetly get rid of my current router lift using your ideas but I will try to replace the plastic and metal parts with some hard wood. Greetings from Germany and stay healthy.
Thanjs for showing your knowledge. I had an elevator for my router B & D industrial. But bothered mevto use a wrench or drill for lifting. And now I have an improved variant of this lift, an don't use two hands for adjustement just one. P. S. Soon I will make the updated version. I will continue to watch these videos so objetive.
Thanks, and it's nice to hear from a fellow router lift designer/tweaker. I saw this video a while ago, and I think if I make another version, I'll include his idea of the steel rods and bearings: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Tff3lX4g-Ts.html.
You are a God send. A master woodworker who speaks in language newbies can understand without condescending! But is there a vid for ghose corner clamps?
Thank you, although I'm NOT a master woodworker. I have a friend, Matt Jackson, who is a true master carpenter (and an awesome guy). Check out his channel sometime - Next Level Carpentry ru-vid.com/show-UCXRNHTVpEdhz9BIvomETGiQ. Don't get me wrong - I appreciate the compliment! As for the corner clamps video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X4BSyZuc-ak.html. You can check out all my videos on my website: thenewbiewoodworker.com/
I use a "foot switch" on my router table. This allows me to start/stop hands free. Real handy when making stopped slots/grooves - I can hold the part in place until the bit stops spinning. Eliminates ooops when removing the part.
1:13 I love little easter eggs thrown in, and I thoroughly enjoyed the beginning of Monty Python and the Holy Grail with the subtitles prattling on about moose and subsequent sacking of sackers followed by the llama title firm
This video tutorial is absolutely great. I learned a lot from you sir. I'll use your design to build my own palm router lift. Still thinking why those 18 dislikes appeared... Hmmm NVM
@@TheNewbieWoodworker You might want to check out Tom Lehrer anyway, especially the song, "We Will All Go Together When We Go". In the introduction, he talks about a friend of his who, just to be different, spells his name Hen3ry. The 3 is silent. Fair warning: his lyrics are pretty seriously warped in a Monty Python sort of way.
Thanks! I thought I was going to need something for the top of the lever, but it turns out the weight of the router is plenty to keep in in place. Never had a problem.
Hello Dan, I loved the video and like you said @ 0:39, I went and bought the planes on Jan 4 2019. I will be making this for my router this spring as my shop is not heated and it is to cold here in Indiana to work out in the shop and heating it is not a option at this time. I had a new roof put on this last summer and there is no ceiling to keep the heat in as the top is vented... :D Thanks for the great videos!
Another great video Dan! I watched a few others an so far I think your is the imperialist to make that will serve my shop. I'm not quite to the point of making one yet since I want to put it in my table saw extension which I am still in the research phase. But all in good time. I have an old router stand from Craftsman that I bought at a garage sale for under $5. I liked the corner clamps! I haven't watched that one yet. Those look like a great small project. BTW p;ease be careful with those kick back and launch demos. I know yours are planned but I had an unplanned one about a year ago and my belly still has a mark. I'm happy it hit me where I had extra padding. KUTGW
Thanks, and LOL. Yes, I have those "few" extra pounds also, but that doesn't mean we can't get bruised and have internal bleeding, so yes, avoid that at all costs. 😛And yes, all in good time. There's no hurry. 😄
Im thinking a dust collector port on the back me be better.. but I really like that dust drawer idea. In fact, I may do that for my bench top table saw..
@@TheNewbieWoodworker honestly, is there really an ideal solution?? Hehe.. and I'll let you know, because it really looks like that drawer thing is ingenious. Especially if you ever used a bench top table saw. You see all the dust under it inside the plastic box they're built into.
Great video! Can you guess what my next build is going to be? We have to get our fingers close once in awhile so we can appricate the safety devices. ☺
Thanks! Some might argue that my voice *needs* something to cover it up, LOL, but I totally agree with you about music in these kinds of videos. I'd like to say to those creators "If I can't hear what you're saying, why do you bother talking in the first place?" Glad you enjoyed it, and your RU-vid ID made me laugh.
You could just cut the dado and install the miter track as one long piece then when that's done, just crosscut it to length. And again with the runners.
You put a LOT of work into this video Dan... nice work! I can relate to the untold hours spent on each step from concept to completion and applaud you for seeing it through... not a job for the faint of heart. All I'm gonna say in response to gettin' called out ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LJqPDADi8MM.html is that if a file doesn't work for roughing up a magnet then you're doing it wrong 😁😎 Sandpaper, as you discovered, works well too and can be less trouble but I like to get deeper scratching and sometimes a file seems the best way to accomplish that. It can be tricky but if you can secure the magnet in a wood-jawed vise or something and use the file's corner/edge it will give pretty rough scratching. Sometimes I use a carbide tip 'scratch awl' to scratch deep lines in that hard chrome plating they put on the magnets. The reason I prefer rougher scratches is that I've found magnets can be secured in seconds rather than an hour by using CA glue. Using epoxy like you do probably doesn't need scratching at all as long as the surface is clean. I just rough up said magnet with file and spritz with activator. Puddle CA glue (Gorilla brand seems to work best) into the recess for the magnet and press the 'activated' magnet down in the puddle... 10 seconds later you're D.U.N. done! Keep up the good work... and don't hesitate to keep me on my game with any 'calling out' you find reason for. Best, Matt
LOL, thanks, Matt. All in good fun, as I'm sure you know. "You're doing it wrong" is a phrase I've heard throughout my life, so no surprise there. 😛By the way, where do you buy your CA glue activator? I can't find it at HD. Rockler carries it, so I may need to take a trip there. 'Cause I sure want to be D.U.N., that's for sure. 😂
@@TheNewbieWoodworker for sure... I enjoy a bit of 'good fun' any time... it's one thing I miss about not being out on a jobsite working with a crew... ahh... the memories! The only store I know where the perfect little cans of StickFast Activator are available off the shelf is WoodCraft in Denver. I don't get there much so if/when I run out I just get it through Amazon. I'm pretty sure TiteBond has an aerosol as well as a pump spray (I don't like anyone's pump spray: it's too slow and too messy IMHO) and aerosols are all pretty much alike leaving my preference for Stick Fast boiled down to the very handy shape and size of the can. Funny I choose THAT to be persnickety about, right? Best, Matt
I like your design and I also like Stubby Nubs design. Guess I'll get both plans and then deside what to do. But I have a problem. Took my table router apart to clean it. The motor housing is plastic and threaded. Height adjustment is done by rotating an outer ring. Since the motor housing is plastic I'm not sure it would be suitable for clamping. So, my question is what are the main characteristics I should look for in a new router?
Oh man, you got me there. I don't think I'm qualified to answer that question, since I've only used a few routers. Do some searches and see what other people are saying - people who will certainly know more than I do. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker FYI -search result: motor housing parallel to bit and min of 2 HP. I've added needs both 1/4" and 1/2" collet and variable speed. Router I mentioned above satisfies all ;-)
s a Health and Safety exec (Industrial light and heavy electrical mechanical) ex military trained nurse inc refugee camps - emergency response teams/ Accident & Emergency -busy city based / Kings College London / Ambulance emergency response to name but a few occupations ! I can honestly say that the vast majority of injuries in the work place AND at home are due in the larger part to stupidity, neglect, tiredness, post alcoholic haze, drugs such as marijuana and carelessness. Opening a can of corned beef with that notorious key attached to the can? whilst in an alcoholic haze which results in the can metal slicing into the fingers or the hand..?!! Oh yes better believe it ! As for using power tools WITHOUT safety guards? You don't want me to tell you some of the bloody stories from those scenarios. Lazy, shortcuts and let's hammer those fingers or drill into the hand or !! Love these vids as an avid wood/metal worker myself DIY but never forget the whole health and safety which includes those around me as pieces of timber fly off the work table enough I will add, force to slap that piece of timber into the wall AND stick. Imagine it in YOU? (wise not to) CARRYING timber and dropping it on your foot!! ? I wear STEEL toed shoes because over the years I KNOW they make a helluva difference should the need arise to protect ME ! I don't carry or move WEIGHT that is I KNOW going to put me at risk but ASK someone else to help OR wait until I have someone to help OR in some scenarios use the right equipment!! to do so. ALWAYS wear the right gear from goggles to masks to gloves to ! KNOW the risks of ie cutting MDF re dust - NOT in the eyes and that includes rubbing my eyes with my fingers NOOOOO! Got dust in my eye/s ? 👀Rub it NOOOOOO! Use an eye bath and rinse the eyes!! Using a welder ALWAYS use the correct shield or suffer what we call 'Arc eye' and I've seen grown men in agony re this ! Cleaning solutions and chemicals without using the correct gloves/masks /goggles!! Dry chapped skin to possible cancer risks !? inc of course acids and strong burning alkaloids. NONE of the guys I supervised EVER had problems re using electro mechanical devices /equipment SAFELY and CORRECTLY. Think as I say, before you BLINK 👀 and the chances are you will survive using power tools etc etc. No one these days has any excuses for ignorance when it comes to this as there are so many opportunities to watch, learn and listen re ie RU-vid and more from the basics to the more professional. Over the years I've loved working on car engines/mechanical as well as of course electrical woodworking, sheet metal and so much more DIY WITHOUT major injuries. Yes I admit I've caught my fingers once or twice BUT you don't forget after that a painful lesson! By the way catch your nail with that hammer and you have a blood spot in the middle of the nail ?👀 PAINFUL pressure on the finger? I take a paperclip, needle and HEAT it before placing it on the top of the nail and let it pierce the nail NOT below or into the skin !! Pressure released! Pain gone! Whoever wherever you are, stay safe and that includes re this beast Covid 19! No excuse to be bored! Great vid this and I'm off to make my own plunge router lever operated lift..
It depends on your router. The plans explain how to calculate it. But for my plunge router, it's about 10 1/2" square, and about 15 1/2" tall (without dust collection).
I know I’m 4 years late to the game, but I am interested in purchasing the plans. However, I live in Japan and we don’t use imperial measurements here. Are the plans available in metric units? Thank you in advance. This looks like a really nice design.
What do you do for a fine adjustment? On my cheap router table there is a long threaded rod with two nuts. One full rotation of the nut gives me .05". If I need lets say .01" I just rotate the nut clockwise (up) a little. How do you measure the depth on your table?
It's a little bit of trial and error for fine adjustments, but it's not difficult. If I need to get exact, I use a digital gauge like this: amzn.to/2LMbgRh.
Thanks! I trip over everything, but I've never run into the lever. I can't believe I just typed that, because you know what that means - next time in the shop I'll run into it. 😛But on my router table, the top sticks out past the edge of the cabinet by about the same length as the lever, so that helps keep my clumsiness away from it. 😄
I have a dewalt dwn743n (combi mitre and table saw), which has a different table height depending on which saw is used. I would like to build a station with a middle section that I can adjust the height of so it stays flush with the surrounding table tops no matter which saw I am using. Do you think this lift system (with one more set of mitre tracks maybe) would work?
You don't need to drill holes in the insert plate, as long as it already comes with holes (probably all of them do, but I just wanted to be clear). This is the extension shown in the video: amzn.to/2RusYec. I use a more expensive extension in my large router table, because I couldn't find any cheaper ones at the time: amzn.to/2AxfM0H
I mean, i did not see your router attached to your insert plate. I bought a rousseau 3509-9 insert that don’t come with the holes. Im just not confident to bore holes yet. Also, i bought exactly the same xtreme bit you have. I love it! Worth every penny. Thanks!
@@goldfamily6852 You don't attach the router to the insert plate, or else you can't move the router up and down. If you start the video at the beginning, then pause it, you can see the screws in the insert plate, and they screw into the top of the router table itself.
About 17 minutes in, c'sinks on the wrong side. Doah!! Been there,done that. I Do you like your counter sink bit? If so, please share the brand. Mine are junk.
LOL, thanks. No matter how much I try, I still screw things up. I guess that's life. I don't like that countersink bit, so I wouldn't recommend it. The ones I like are my combination drill/countersink bits. But of course I don't have one for that size. And I don't remember where I got them, but if I had to guess, it would be Rockler.
Drawer slides have too much play to be effective unless you do a MOD to do them like Mathias Wandel did with his, but even then, in the vertical orientation, I can't imagine them staying in alignment for too long.
I used 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood for the vast majority of the build. If I don't say in the video, then it's 3/4". There's just a couple of spots where I use 1/2".
If you're going to build it, give it a try and let me know how it works. The good thing is, if it doesn't work, you can (hopefully) just make a bigger dado and add the miter track, although getting it aligned property might be difficult...
LOL. I'm sure it was either a ham or turkey sandwich - that's my usual. I'm not sure if it was cured ham or not... (OK, that was a stretch, even for me.)
I recently bought your router lift plans and plan on using the fixed-router version. I also bought some lift plans from Stumpy Nubs. I definitely prefer your plans in that I think your version offers more stability with the miter track/plastic runners as opposed to the drawer slides in Stumpy's. I wonder, however, if you think it would work to incorporate Stumpy's threaded rod crank system into your more stable design. I think the rod would offer a little bit better incremental bit adjustment than the lever. What do you think about my trying that? BTW, here's Stumpy's built video >>> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-diAg_uZlb2s.html Thanks so much I enjoy your designs and your videos.
Thanks, Scott. I know the Stumpy Nubs router lift well - it's one of the many videos on the subject that I've watched. I tried the threaded rod, and as I cranked the rod around, I noticed that my router bit leaned a little in one direction, then leaned a little in the opposite direction, as it went up and down. So that's why I went with the lever directly underneath the router, right in the middle. But if you want to give it a try, I say "go for it" - it's fun to try different things, and if they don't work, you just say "now I know". And if they *do* work, you feel awesome! Let me know what you end up doing!
Because that’s the [adapted] line from the title credits of Monty Python and the Holy Grail :) Then again, maybe those responsible for sacking your editor should be sacked
@@dubya13207 OMG, you're so right! And it just goes to show that it's a good thing I've learned not to react to comments, without getting an explanation first. Because, after all, *I* am my editor, and I don't want to sack myself. 😄
@@SyMaster1 Thank you for sharing that! I actually have the movie, but I haven't watched it in ages. Watching that again, I had forgotten just how much I identify with their humor. I mean, my life is strewn with Monty Python references, but it's just... I don't know how to say it. My kind of humor, I guess, is the best way to say it. "Did you say 'knives'?"
