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I liked that you taped everything down inside. That was actually clever. One suggestion? put some hot glue over the LED tape. The backing does fail, and they do work their way loose. I've found out the hard way on that one. I love watching these vids, as it's neat to see all the different ways people go about the build. It increases the tools in the belt.
Wayne, Really looking good! Suggestion, Put a couple of drops of CA at the corners and in the center of your light strips to make sure they stay in place.... The heat could loosen the adhesive on them, Just a thought. Loving this build !
Great work Wayne, the only change I would have made is connected the strip LED in parallel vs in series like you did. If something goes bad on one of the strips they all go out vs if they are parallel if one goes out the other ones still work.
I would recommend connecting the led strip tape in parallel that way if one strip fails or the wire comes loose you wont lose all of the lights. I have had a strip of led tape fail on me in the past but it was in a model that could be opened back up pretty easy. It will take a bit more wire to do, but it will give you some redundancy.
Awesome job. I'm just wondering though for those of us who are complete novices to model lighting and have no proper tools, do these light strips come preassembled? I'm really only wanting to light up some of the window spaces so the interior compartments can be seen better, but I need something that is basically idiot proof and not too expensive. You also mentioned Aztecing yours and if I may ask where you purchased the decals and the cost. I figure you bought them not too long ago and yet everywhere I've searched they are either out of stock or cost almost as much as the entire model kit itself which is ridiculous.
Yep the Aztecing details can be expensive. The light strips are easy to install. They need a minimum of 12v and it's as easy as soldering the + an - to the wire.
really enjoying seeing this take shape. I'm a little confused - maybe this was explained earlier and I forgot - as to why you needed to sand off the phasers and then stick new ones on. Were they incorrect as sculpted?
Oh I just thought of something if you can't find the photo etch I might have those impulse grills depending on if you used the kit part or after market. If you do need them let me know. I am sure we can figure out how to get them to you.
Help a new guy out. I see where there are three leads out of the saucer section, yet the code shows three live connections and one ground. Where do I tie the thrusters into? Should it be a fourth wire so that it can connect with the lower section?
No the lower section will connect to the same points. The main internal lights don’t go in the Nano at all. They are connected directly to the 12v supply. The thrusters and impulse crystal go into a different board. You will see that on todays video
Wayne, I had to cringe when you were doing your soldering! Everything looked great *until* you were putting the wires on the tinned pads. It just looked... awkward, and prone to burning your fingers when you worked across your own hands. Please stay safe, and at least rotate your work by 90 degrees clockwise to save your fingers from soldering gun burns!