One thing I learned about designing parts in plastic for injection molding that would work well here is to design in imperfections IE: parting lines, simple steps, fillets and other tricks where any two pieces come together rather than trying to make them line up perfectly. If you design in artificial or fake steps/separations wherever two parts connect, the imperfections will look like part of the design rather than two parts that align almost perfectly but not enough that they aren't obvious seams.
You can print super clean supports by printing the support with a different material. PLA and PETG wont stick together so the interface layer is super clean and removing the support is easy. Preferably you design with the limitations of the process in mind. So you would just design the whole shape different if you want to mass produce a 3D printed lamp. One final note: Insane production quality!
Really well filmed and edited! And really awesome seeing the design process. And such a cool lamp! I've been 3d-printing for a while but haven't made any models myself yet but this video inspired me to start learning!
I learned that 3D printing as a hobby or a business is basically being a product designer, cad draftie, manufacturing techie, quality control engineer, & factory assembler. I'm not sure I have the skills or the patience for that, but nice to see what could be achieved. Appalling material imho, that can't take rough handling is surely something the material scientists need to fix, otherwise the whole concept is very limited.
Great video, good stuff! Only complaint is mis-using the word tolerance. The whole maker community seems to do this. It’s clearance. Tolerance is a +/- value (typically centered on the nominal dimension) that the machine can do repeatedly. Design clearance (gap) needs to be more than the tolerance of both parts (stacked up) to ensure a clearance fit.
Шикарная работа. Здорово, что показываете и неудачные моменты, а то иногда складывается чувство что все вокруг умеют моделировать и печатать, один я делаю по 7-10 прототипов.
Спасибо вам. Я кстати пришёл к тому, что если подольше посидеть за моделью, прототипов намного меньше выходит. Я прям неприлично долго полирую модель, пока в тупик не приду где без печати не понять, и только потом печатаю
Hey, thank you for the video! It is very accessible and inspiring! I am a UG student researching into 3d printing mostly. I have a few suggestions on how you could improve the design: 1) From my experience, if your printer size allows, you can print the stand in a single piece and bend it using a heat gun / hairdryer+time. To make it perfect, cover parts you do not want to be bent with a few sheets of foil or other insulation. You may also consider making a bend against a some tube (e.g. chair gas-lift) so the radius is consistent and the corner is 90º exactly. 2) You may want to make the stand heavier for better stability and more solid feeling of the piece. One way is to have several internal slots in the base and fill them with something heavy (m3 nuts, sand, small stones) misprint so it gets fused inside. 3) I really like how you played with the wire on the back of the lamp, it both works and looks grate! But maybe you would prefer a "cordfree" design. In the same way, you can bury a cable inside your print by putting it in a slot mid-print so it is permanently covered over with layers of plastic. And, anyway, thank you a lot for such a video!
Hi Max, wow, one big comment. 1. Yeah, the heat gun was suggested already, I will definitely look into it. 2. The lamp is actually really stable, but the production model will be from steel, so it’s no issue, it will be heavy enough)) 3. Cordless design, would be completely different design, we will leave this for the upcoming lamps. Thank you so much for the advices and kind words. Good luck with your studies!
I think you're definitely missing the point suggesting to hide the cable. It's clearly a deliberate design decision and a standout component of the overall look.
Mate... What a work. I mean, not only the lamp(s) design(s) are amazing, but the video editing, the storytelling, the printing tips etc, everything is nice, works together, and hop, 8mn has passed. Brilliant, like and subscribe done. See you soon in another. Well done buddy
Love it bro but one tip for the initial print for the body. You could of printed the whole thing flat, then print a jig for the radius you want then use a heat gun to bend the arm up. This allows you have optimal layer orientation and still the final form.
Hmm, might work. You'd have to do it very slowly and heat very evenly on all sides. Even so, the sides would probably fold out, so you'd need to brace them as you're bending to keep them perpendicular to the other faces. It's trickier with 3D prints than bending wood or moulded parts because prints are anisotropic due to their hollowness and infill.
The whole intro describes the whole reason why 3d-printing is best utilized for prototyping rather than actually finished products. It's a lot faster and more precise than trying things out with cardboard and the like, but once you know what your end product is going to be it's usually better to use some other method.
This video was excellent. For the build process, the production quality was brilliant. At the end, I'd have liked to see a few, slower shots of the finished lamp as it was rather difficult to get a feel for how it looked. You've got 3 seconds of it actually switched on, then some black & white footage as you route the cable. I feel like a few slower shots from different angles would have really helped
Interesting approach to the video, good level of 3D design, cool recordings, use of audio. New subscriber here. Atte. A 3D Maker from a few years ago in 3D Printing.
Nicely done, Great cable management, but the fragility problem seems worse than my results, try adjusting the setting on your slicer and don't dry the filament completely at about 40% to 45% relative humidity is the sweet spot otherwise, the plastic becomes brittle.
hi, i currently live in China, so i ordered from local shops, but these three might be correct: if not, i can modify the model for them, if you provide the dimensions www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Adapter-Resistant-Converts-Standard/dp/B00IJUNQXG?ref_=ast_slp_dp&th=1 - socket www.amazon.com/JKLcom-Halogen-Equivalent-Chandelier-Dimmable/dp/B07XSMXFHC/ref=sr_1_98?crid=65AYH94JQYBZ&keywords=e27+led+bulb+12w&qid=1703336899&sprefix=e27+led+bulb+12w%2Caps%2C368&sr=8-98 - bulbs www.amazon.com/dp/B08XMR8LNW/ref=twister_B08TB4VJZB?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 - cord
tuning your printer will help a lot with at least two of your issues.. your layer walls seem really inconsistent which will not be helping with strength nor tolerances
Very nice model... I would done a bit differently. It has and still think a weakness in the part you broke... It Is not good to me. Seems to easy to break. First of all with 3d printed models is to make strong model and after that make a nice design...otherwise it's just waste of time and resources. It seems as you done that except one piece that is one of the most important in this object. This can be fixed and might not look that nice...but better so you can trust what you printed. One solution can be to print 45 degree angle if possible... It should give extra strength... I have not done this with any model...but I have had thoughts to test this 🤔 Of course it will be tricky and might not be great as a solution
Hi, thanks, i use Artlist. here is what i used in this video: 0:05-1:30 Solid Ground - Roie Shpigler 1:30-03:17 Flint - Lets go again 03:20-4:42 Shake your style - Stefano Mastronardi 04:42- Yonnie Dror - Seven raindrops Outro - Juvenile-Things Like That
Very nice design. You could try to make the inner sides of the records more reflective. Some bright white paint maybe, to get some diffuse light on the wall behind it. Though that may not even be the desired effect. After all this is your lamp, so build it like you want to :-)
Hi, thanks. White paint on the inner side was an initial design actually, but the raw record diffused as much light as a white surface. You can also see some special effect when camera is exactly perpendicular to the record, at the end of the video, that also can’t be achieved with a painted inner side.
I liked the project and content! I have a little feedback on the video. There are a lot of very short cuts that made it difficult to appreciate what you were showing or to read the words and look at the scene. These cuts may seem ok for you when editing because you already know the content. The other thing I'd comment on is using white text on a light yellow background. Using a greater contrast makes it easier to read. If you have less-young (I'm not calling anyone old!) viewers, both longer cuts and easier to read text will be appreciated, and may determine if they want to watch more. Best wishes! (Subscribed to see how your channel grows!)
Hi, appreciate your long feedback a lot) unfortunately, I don’t know how to keep both parties engaged😁, content without short cuts and fancy texts-gets boring fast and people quit. But I’m not giving up, will look for ways to make content entertaining for both generations😄🙌🏻
@@alimp_designs @alimp_designs You don't need to make the cuts a minute long, but check some of them out around 1:40 to 2:30; they're maybe a second, a second or two. You could double some and not lose people's attention. Those are the ones I'm thinking of. Thanks for taking feedback positively!
Порой надо заниматься тем, что месяцами сначала не приносит денег, даже на пару сосисок в день, чтоб состояться. А на счёт акцента, лучше за грамматику переживать, чем за него. Как видишь, с акцентом проблемы у тебя, русскоязычного, а не у англоговорящих🦭
Хорошее видео, англ подтянется со временем. Лампы это хорошее направление. Но конкретно эта меня не заинтересовала, может следущие , будут интересней. Смолой хорошие кристалы получаются , даже без фотополимерника. Подпишусь пока что на канал.
