Don't use ball bearings, use double acting tapered bearings (one of the bearings and the other regular rollers). More expensive, but they do double work. Regular bearing work and thrust bearing work, from both directions.
@@AutismusMaximus You put the double acting one at the gearbox, and it's the master for the whole affair, and the rest are roller regulars (not the needle bearings you're usually used to see, but caged roller, maybe something like a Timken N (RIN, RN). No taper. When in play, they have a margin of error (that you can select based on which bearing you choose) that allows for expansion, in the vertical plane (rotation axis). This is how some old double row, radial piston engines had their cranks fixed in place. You should see double screw ones, those were fun to plan out. If they could make such complex shituations work back then, then Rob (with the help of a bearing rep of the company he'll choose) will have no issues. If he asks them, they can even tell him exactly what bearings to use where, down to the composition based on temp, oil, and play found inside his engine. Sidenote: When i changed my brother's D10 bearings to better than OEM, SKF sent an engineer over. And while indeed the cost of the bearings might've "accented" that, the dude was more than gracious enough to speak with me a whole day to choose and figure out what's what based on the climate the machine was stuck in, the type of dust found in the fields it worked in and even minutia like how much work time is expected and how much we wanted to get out of those bearings (lifetime).
They likely are 5 axis parts. Just look at the part in question in the original comment, not only do you have the flange itself, but if you trace it's corner down to where the oil passage is, there's a peak between two machined surfaces below the flat of the plate's face; andbeyond this, the inside of that peak (in relation to the part's center) also has some gnarly sculpting on it. This kind of job would take way too many operations and way too much time on a 3 axis machine, at least for any reasonable business model; as a hobbyist or garage shop, sure, but as an actual business producing these at any amount of demand, a 5 axis is a no-brainer investment. I wouldn't be surprised if their machining method doesn't mirror Rob's in the beginning. Plane the front and likely hog out the basic shape, drill the perpendicular stud holes, then use those holes as a fixture to do the rest of the machining. Except on a 5 axis you can get to every other face and transition needed to mill the part; and on a part without a lot of coplanar surfaces, a lot of perpendicular surfaces, and a lot of sculpting, this is where 5 axis makes the most sense, just from setup and cycle time alone. Individual tool counts are probably a lot lower as well, one hogging bit, one finishing bit, maybe a set for holes depending on diameter differences, then a typical 60° included angle bit for thread milling, with the only potential additional being a face or shell for quickly planning the few flat surfaces. A good process is highly, highly optimized.
Multiple people going at this is what we all want. Competition is the mother of innovation, the real one. So BP making those rotors is gonna kick Rob's butt ot make even better.
Just looked at their website. Pretty nice stuff there. Each plate are 4300$ though so I guess it's about 30k$ CAD motor. Maybe more like 40k actually. I like the motor, the sound and all, but I prefer watching you do it! :D
@@Anon.G It's definitely on par with big boy LS-based engines at those power levels. Not some guy doing it in his garage with a junkyard block, ebay turbos, and crossed fingers, but a legit 2000hp LS from Borowski, Nelson, SME, etc. is $40k+ all day long.
@@Anon.Gthat's just the engine. It doesn't make 2000hp NA. Overall it's probably like 60-70k overall on a stand, and that DIY and not even in a car yet. I think Rob can do it but this dude is not regular dude. He has HP in his brain that most people don't have. While inspiring, not realistic for majority of people.
Not really....you/we just were not shown it. Some of the stuff you read about in the 30/40/50's engineering magazines were utterly bonkers, they just went black.
@@danstewart8218Are you making the claim that 30/40/50s machining technology and techniques is anywhere close to one’s today in 2023? That’s fucking wild man. Maybe sit this one out.
@@dooby1445 He is not saying that they were the same and that shows in reliability, but that for the time they somehow managed to design multiple mechanical machined pieces of art
Rob's absolute dedication not only to build the most insane 4 rotor but to also sharing the every bit of knowledge he gathers from it is the best❤ . Keep it up the good work. We love you rob ❤.
I daydream a lot about ever building a rotary. The first 4 minutes of this video is 8 months salary and isn't even a quarter of the build. Maybe I can daydream for another 30 years.
Fix the o-ring issue by printing/CNC a jig the same shape as it will need to be on the irons and storing the o-rings on the jig. The o-ring will take up the shape (for the most part) over a couple of weeks and prevent the movement and pinching on assembly. You can speed up the process by heat carefully heat cycling the o-rings a few times on the jig. You could also print an assembly jig so you could get alignment perfect (pre-jiggle)above the seals.
Man, I wish I could just finish building my m50b30 compound twin turbo 700hp engine and you're here finishing what is probably the ultimate 4 rotor build from scratch. I wish I could afford to throw more at my build but everyday I get more and more underwater. Maybe someday.
Looks like I'll be going billet when my motor finally gives up the ghost. No doubt Rob has had a massive POSITIVE impact on the rotary community and the car community in general. Love the transparency and logical explanations behind everything. Really hits home for those of us that build our own vehicles or have a background in building cars.
Damn the external oiling machine work is amazing. Solid dowels and external oiling ftw. I've been checking out their 3 rotor plate for longer than I want to admit haha
I can't wait to see EGT differences between this and the old engine! All that extra cooling through the plates will help dramatically! Let's GOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!
you can make a hardenestest with a centerpunch. at least you can compare materials if you are able to hit the centerpunch with the same force. i thought this could be an interesting tip for you. good luck. I`m watching you :-
Love everything you’re doing. Ran across a cnc video and thought about your projects. And thought I’d share. Hopefully it’s helpful. I’m pretty sure you’ve probably seen it but throwing it out there. Their RU-vid is titans of cnc machining. $50m part.
Rob things to add to your arsenal is a set of gauge pins for accurately measuring your dowel holes and a micrometer to measure your dowels. Also having gauge pins it'll assist you measure point to point on hole patterns because you have a known OD pin and you can measure the outside of 2 holes and find center distance accurately.
Very nice :) getting a stressfree not twisted and so on after machining and heat treatment. there is always one thing off! unless you use thors vise sent from the heavens... still cant be identical in all variables 😁
