I’m wondering what will people think when this randomly turns up in a yard sale or flea market in 70 years. Because it’s basically a whole custom computer with little to no documentation other than your videos.
@@paco3523 More like the 64 bit guy :-) "remember 2020, they had arm64 and amd64, it was so confusing, only one letter difference between two radically distinct arches, fortunately ARM renamed to Nivarm in 2025, making things much less confusing!"
well it is technically a standard PET, just in a custom case. plus the PCB says "Mini-PET" on it so if someone where to regonize the case as a Commodore based one and saw the BASIC screen, they could likely come to the conclusion that it's a Commodore PET
When building oddities like this it's always good to make a small label or index card with information on its construction and origins and place it inside the case.
This video is bringing back many memories for me back in the late 70s. My friend sold Commodore PET computers in Eastern Canada. On the original PET, the front plastic nameplate would snap out. I was just finishing high school and my friend gave me a contract to build an audio option for the PET to produce sounds from a bit port. I sourced Radio Shack audio amplifiers which had a volume control and 2 audio jacks. I routed out a slot for the ON/OFF volume control and two audio jacks. The nuts on the audio jacks held the small board to the back of the name plate and I made a cabling harness to go over to a inline pin array to pickup power and the bit port. I was doing many of these per month - can't remember what I made, maybe $10 or $20 a unit. More fun and better money than a paper route or working at McD's. My friend did amazingly well selling these computers as he sold a couple into the school boards and the government and then next year others in the government and the schools said me too and his sales soared. He won some trip with Commodore for top sales and got to fly on the Concorde. Those were the days.
LOL. At first I misread the title of this video. I read "Building *the* case for the Mini Pet," which I took to mean that David was going to make an argument as to why the Mini Pet is a great computer and why we should all go out and buy one. Then he proceeded to build an actual *case* into which to mount the thing. Hahaha!
I suppose you are all referring to this track of the three: bedroomcassettemasters.bandcamp.com/track/sim-1 The other two: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZoMMUCCF_28.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HIE8bT_IWWs.html Happy New Year!
You got the pronunciation of "Tynemouth" correct the first time. As I said when we originally discussed this, I would be happy to respin the Mini PET board to fit into a C64 case, but there doesn't seem to be much point in doing that until there is a suitable keyboard solution available that would not require the case to be modified. Also we now have the clear perspex case and chiclet style keyboards available from TFW8b, which does a similar job.
Ever consider using one of the joystick ports as a socket for an external Numberpad key matrix. 9 pins could get you a 4x5 matrix, which covers the whole number pad. Any keys that don't fit in the standard C64 main layout area, could possibly be remapped to the function key area. While not as ideal to the PET layout, it _could_ work as far as just using an unmodded C64 case.
The main QWERTY area of the PET Business Keyboard has the same layout as the C64, AFAICT, and when using it you can get numbers on the top row and don't need the keypad: retrocomputing.stackexchange.com/questions/12466/what-were-commodores-keyboard-layouts-before-the-vic-20 As @richfiles π says, an external keypad could be connected. This wouldn't use the function key area but that could be used on the Mini PET for things like reset and NMI debugger keys, blinkenlights, etc.
@@hjalfi At first glance they are similar, but when you look there are rather a lot of keys which are different. Some are missing, some in different places and importantly most of the punctuation is in different combinations of shifted / unshifted states. I've been through it all sorts of ways and it's too different. If you want to use a C64 case, we need a new keyboard with the right keys, and ideally based on the graphics not business layout for better support for some older software which does not use the kernal keyboard routines. (or maybe just build a different case or use the perspex one we sell that was designed for the Mini PET and the chiclet keyboard)
This is a great example of engineering, ingenuity, and teamwork. I like how you decided to modify an existing (new) case rather than attempt to make an entirely custom deal, since the work involved is accessible to many people. Even those without a 3D printer could likely have a 3D print service make parts for them, and most people can afford/work with a dremel. Excellent work, guys!
Nice work 8-Bit Guv'nor and Chris! Very satisfying. Puppyfractic also approves of the new "pet" home. 🐶 P.S. The last way you pronounced Tynemouth was correct - "tine-mth" 👍🕹️
Tine-m'th is pretty rare, most locals I've met pronounce it how it's written: Tine-mouth. In fact I think even the older, broader Geordies would say "Tyne-mooth" if anything, though that would be overkill for anyone outside the area. I'd say David got it right first attempt.
Oh, I kept thinking of seaside town Teignmouth in Devon. That's pronounced tin-mth like David's third try. I don't know why I wasn't thinking of the Geordie town.
Ah, the old Dremel tool commercial where they showed the dozens (hundreds?) of things it could do... until they showed a partially hammered-in nail, implying it couldn't hammer a nail. A fraction of a second later, the voice-over says "Did I mention we cut?" as it proceeds to cut the nail off.
To be clear, those are new "Commodore 64C" cases ("sixty-four cee"), the "c"ompact (or "c"heaper ) later, flatter version of the C64 from the late 80's. Although the story accounts vary, the plastic injection molds (along with plus/4 molds) were fortuitous saved from the scrap melters by an astute enthusiast.
@@jackandersen1262 If they are still good at the moment, they will probably be good forever. They will never be used for making hundreds of thousands of cases again. I don't know what's the minimum number of cases which is worth making in one run, I guesstimate 5000. If they make 5000 cases every 2-3 years, or even just every 5 years, I would assume that would be plenty. And with rates like this, the molds wouldn't wear out in the next 30-50 years, I guess, if stored properly.
That turned out a lot better than I thought it would; the white & black contrast really makes the keyboard pop. 🇨🇦🐧 As for a PET case, I'd like something more like my chiclet 2001, but lighter and smaller; perhaps with a display that folds up and down.
I just realized something while watching this. Whoever is doing your editing is really, really good. The cuts and audio are timed to absolute perfection.
You can see the Commodore PET on one of the most hated shows of all time. Star Wars Holiday special. Copies exist on RU-vid as Disney and Lucas pretend that never happened.
I found that a sanding drum on the Dremel removes material without melting like the cutting tool. I'd cut with the wheel and then move to a sanding drum to bring it into tolerance. That way, you can use the file just for squaring the corners since the drum is round.
Brand new Commodore style case, brand new Commodore style guts, all assembled and soldered by hand. A perfect combination of homebrew and mass market aesthetics. From one Mad Tinkerer to another, I salute you, sir.
Nice project and always good to see no original hardware was butchered during the experiments, although I have to admit I did butcher quite a few c64 back in the day when they were considered outdated trash.
It looks like the mini-PET is small enough you could move it further back in the case, and print a PCB adapter just to to extend all the IO/ports to C64 positions to not require cutting a case for the IO.
That was a cool restoration, I loved it. 🙂 For the next time maybe I'd suggest you score the plastic with a ruler and an exacto knife. Then cutting away unwanted pieces would be a matter of bending the unwanted pieces with a pair of pliers. The plastic would just snap off cleanly saving you a lot of time and grief.
It won't. There are the cursor keys and the help and delete keys between Keyboard and Numpad... Maybe ac C128 Case might fit better, if I remember it correctly.
@@markusjuenemann Yes - the c128 would probably make a better case. It does have an extra row of keys at the top, but since they are separate from the main key groupings, they could be filled in.
Tynemouth, where my grandmother ran a hotel when I was a little boy, is pronounced in a perfectly straightforward way, so it is Tyne (the river and pronounced like the tine of a fork) and mouth, pronounced mouth. I know lots of English place names have spellings that bear almost no resemblance to their pronunciation but Tynemouth is not one of them.
Very cool project, thank you for sharing! I remember our schools having PET's, around that time I got my first computer a TI-99/4A. Those were the good 'ole days! Happy New Year, love your channel!
always fun to watch these, you are very good at description and easy to understand. the videos make me feel like we are in the same room and youre a nerdy cousin assembling things ina hobby sense. very fun chill time
A Dremel melts plastic more than it cuts b/c it is fast. I would instead recommend a *razor* *saw* from a model-making store. More manual work but more precise cuts. They come in many different sizes. One size _is_ just like a old-fashioned razor blade that has got serrated edges.
Don't Dremels have speed control? (I've just got a noname knock-off, and it has...) Then it's down to type of tool/bit used - a grinding/cut-off wheel will tend to melt plastic, but they do make circular saw blades that cut plastic just fine, like: i.ebayimg.com/images/g/CCkAAOSwYNZavEbe/s-l400.jpg
Real nice channel. Guys like you are helping kindle the flame of love for these good old things, and it's amazing to see how much people are actually into this stuff. To think that 20 years ago I felt I was the only crazy retro geek... Now with social media we see we're clearly not a few 😉 I'm also a retro fanatic and collector trying to do stuff in my modest corner of YT, and I can tell you I really like the way you make videos: they are informative as well as entertaining. Keep up the great work, there's so much to tell about our beloved machines and their golden age!
As I remember those years, CP/M PCs and IBM clones dominated, not the PET. But many cases looked like the PET and Apple II machines with stacked CRTs. Then there were the many machines with mini-cabinets, such as New Brain and Spectrum.
I just did a search. The company is back in business under the name “Commodore Business Machines LTD.” They came back in 2015 and dived into smartphone manufacturing. The first smartphone they created was the “Commodore PET” for the 2015/2016 season and the “Commodore LEO” for the 2016/2017 season. Nothing much has been done since then. The new company is based in London, England UK.
The real Commodore was Jack Tramiel. After he left if the Amiga hadn't gone to Commodore I feel they would have died off much sooner, maybe just become a seller of PC clones.
The generic formula: R=(Vsupply - Vf_led) / I_led Vf_led depends on color if the LED is of the older styles, while newer might all be around 3V and generate blue internally and then use phosphors for the final visible color - if uncertain test/check what you've got or start with higher resistance/lower current for initial testing/verification. I_led can typically be set to 20mA for 3/5mm LEDs, but they're usually almost as bright, and will live longer, at 10-ish... But also beware to not overtax the supply if from say a chip. Then check the power dissipated in the resistor, P=R x If_led^2 and pick an appropriately sized resistor.
@@michaeltempsch5282 5v supply. 2fv. 10ma draw.= 300ohms. i know the formula. 300 to 1k. 1k if you want the LED to not be so bright. (i have electronics degree since 1996). some indicator LEDs are ran right off line voltage 120VAC that use 1/4watt resistors. 10ma * 5v = way less than quarter watt.
@@michaeltempsch5282 oh i thought you were saying i was wrong or something LoL. i was like wait a minute i figured that up before i posted it. i did the math real fast again and was like i was right! LOL. but yes. your formulas were right on! happy new year!!
Nice. Love to build that too. Your suggestions to make it fit in a c64 case are great. Love to see this happen too. Love the content. One 8 bit guy to another.
To make the case look better take the 'BBC Micro approach'. Cut a hole that is rectangular that can fit the whole keyboard into it. Then use some poster card (Black?) and cut holes out in it to the exact shape to harness the keyboard into the rectangular hole and attach it to the underside of the top part of the C64 case making sure its overall perimeter is slightly larger than the rectangular hole cut out of the top part of the case so you can stick the edges to the underside of it. ADDTIONAL: You can also line the Poster Card with black self adhesive laminate (similar looking to what the BBC micro has - available at arts & crafts stores). It will look much more professional and no unwanted spaces or holes!! :)
For what you had I think it came out very good and Chris did a really nice Job , you can really see how much experience he has. Thank You for another fun and interesting video.
Hi guy! Your channel channel is awesome, this project is beautiful and awesome, and the intro music is a symphony for my ears, thank to you and your time!
David manages to make such small things like modifying a case enjoyable and whole project with its clear goal, results and nice inspiring additions like game development and plans (I'm an indie gamedev myself). Very nice video to end 2020!
That's awesome, definitely makes it nicer to use. For mine I think I still want to design and print something more PET-looking (but more compact). Hmmmm 🤔 The best thing about the Mini PET versus a real one - they should be more robust over time whereas the real ones, even if they survive shipping to Canada, will eventually need a lot more maintenance :)
I agree completely. My goal for a drop-in replacement solution would be something that could go in a breadbin case as well as C64C styled case. I think a custom breadbin would look pretty amazing with the Mini PET. Obviously anything you do would have to be 100% reversible with no case mods at all.
Your onto something here my good man!! Should one have enough enthusiasm to do it, this would make an awesome pre-made product for the amazon-ebay market!
You can still support him by liking, following, telling your social media or volunteering to help. Many ways you can help without paying a single cent. :)
So many memories. Back in 1979 when I was a teen, I couldn't afford even the cheapest computer and would have taken ANY computer handed to me and enjoyed it. Never really used a PET, but i think I messed with most models as I used to skip school and learn to program them from a combination of the public library and store displays. :)
Greetings from the North Texas area. you know I couldn't care less about the mini pet but I'll watch every video you make. That's the sign of a good channel brother
