Building a CFX Neopixel Lightsaber with Crystal Chamber and Bluetooth - PART 1 

Glad it helped!

There much cheaper ways of doing it. He just went the more complicated route.

I definitely went a more complicated / more expensive route. TCSS offers cheaper options to make your own lightsaber.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you very much. Glad to hear it was useful.

Thanks! The models are from Eaglemoss.

Thanks for the advise! It was definitely the most stressful part of the build since I don't own a drill press. Hoping to get my next video for this lightsaber series posted soon.

Thank you! Still haven't gotten a drill press. LOL

Thanks!

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you!!

Thanks for the recommendation. Since posting this video I have started using flux. The solder you see me using in all the saber building videos is flux core solder, but I still use additional flux now when I solder. Definitely makes a difference.

Pre-tinning the pads, which you started to do later in the build, would have solved that too, it would have looked more “flowed”. But you still did a great job and the connections all looked solid for sure.

I love CFX! Especially since the GraFX animation became available.

@@jraffytaffy2678 ya that was a total game changer. Yes, Proffie can do a lot…but can it let me add dozens of spectacular blades and blade ignition animations in minutes? Nope…hence CFX just rocks. 👍

😮​@@jraffytaffy2678

The Bluetooth can allow you to make adjustments to your lightsaber. Checkout crystalfocus.net for more. This can be beneficial if it is tricky to get access to your SD card to run a data cable to your board. Another benefit is you can use the Crystal FX app or the ForceSync app to control your saber. See my video on my lightsaber display stand for an example of how Bluetooth can be used to control a lightsaber.

@@jraffytaffy2678 Okay, thanks! I'll check it out!

The one in the description, you have to select “request access”. It will send me an email telling me someone wants access to the folder. Then I can unlock it for you. I put it on “view” so someone doesn’t accidentally remove something. But view allows you to make a copy of the folder to your Google drive.

If you have the latest firmware, you will need to go into the led.txt for the sound font you want to have a crystal chamber for. In the txt file, you will find a set of 8 letter for poweron, poweroff, leds, etc after the accents= . These 8 letters are for the 8 accent pads. I set my 5, 6, 7 accents to YRC. Check page 95 and 96 of the most up to date version of the manual to see what al these letters mean. Hope this helps you.

In the video description I have links to RU-vid videos that helped me learn how to do this as well as information on where to purchase the materials.

Well, if I were to take my current saber as shown in this video and in part 2 & 3 and set it up for harder dueling, I would get a thick walled blade tube instead of a thin walled blade tube (The 3D printed chassis I designed for part 2 & 3 makes the electronics way more secure, so that would help). However, damaging a neopixel blade from hard dueling can be expensive to replace if the pixel strips are damaged. So a really hard dueling saber, it would probably be better to use a high powered tri-cree RGB LED instead. There are no LEDs inside the blade, just a hollow tube with a mirror at the opposite end, so less expensive to replace when it inevitably breaks. Lots of hard dueling sabers tend to avoid sound and are light only. You can see an example of that in the playlist linked in the description. It all depends on how hard you want to duel and how much financial risk you want to take.

I purchased the blade tube through the custom saber shop. I bought all the parts for it and assembled it myself, as demonstrated in the video. The custom saber shop doe offer pre-made neopixel blades, but you can't customize the length of the blade. They only offer specific blade lengths, such as 36". I used the 1: thin walled blade tube, but you can get a thick wall blade tube if you plan to do some more heavy dueling. www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Thin-walled-Trans-White-PolyC-40-long-P529.aspx

I bought the wire at the custom saber shop. In the description is a link to a google drive folder containing a document with links to most of my purchases. www.thecustomsabershop.com/Wire-Heatshrink-C20.aspx Also, in that google folder you will find a wiring diagram showing how I wired the saber. I believe one of the pictures in the folder, I labeled all of the AWG sizes I used. It is important that you reference page 34 of the CFX manual before doing any soldering of wire. That page will explain to what AWG of wire you should use for each component. For example, you only need 28AWG for switches and the speaker, but 22AWG is recommended for power components such as the battery. A copy of the manual can be found in my google folder or at plecterlabs.com www.plecterlabs.com/shop/article_info.php?articles_id=125

For my RGB LED for the Crystal chamber, I used three of the eight accent pads (5, 6, &7). Each pad controls a differ meant color. Refer to page 83 of the CFX manual for more detail on how to program accent LEDs. You can set these pads to mirror the blade or do several other effects that you’ll find I that part of the manual. Another option for the LED is a pixel LED wired in series of the blade or independent of the blade using the LS2 data. I’m planning to switch to that in the future to get more options, and that is covered page 122 and 139 of the manual. In the description of this video is a link to a Google drive folder with the most up to date CFX manual (when you try the access the folder, you will need to send me a share request, then I’ll unlock it for you by making you a “viewer” which allows you o download or copy files to your own folder. I do this so people don’t accidentally delete or move things out of the folder). Or you can go to plecterlabs.com to get a CFX manual straight from the creator’s website.

I use an MXL990. I’ve had it since high school. I use Logic Pro to edit my sound. Thanks for the compliment. Personally, I actually feel like the audio is a little rushed and unpolished.

You can just voiceover a video on filmora and it's just as good bro

Well, to be honest my design is one of the more expensive ways to build a custom lightsaber. All the materials cost me around $350. But what I did (and several other saber builders I’ve talked to do the same) is I didn’t buy everything all at once. It took me 4-5 months to get all the materials. I did the same thing when I built myself a gaming pc. Unlike paying someone to build you a saber where you would pay them in one large payment, building your own saber means you can spread out the purchases. If you have any other questions on this, leave another comment and I’ll answer as soon as I can.

No, I do not. This is a hobby for me. I recommend checking out Solo Sabers RU-vid channel. People will buy the parts from companies like Sorroc Sabers, Saberforge, etc. and he assembles them. He also might know more people who will do more personalized system sabers.

Thank you. This is a hobby for me, and I made the video to share my experience with those who would like to learn to make a lightsaber this way. This lightsaber is full of individuals like Rob Petkau, Solo Sabers LLC, KR Sabers, Erv Plectar, crystalfocus.net, etc. who are happy to share how they make lightsabers as well. Solo Sabers LLC for example streams worship videos building lightsabers. I will not charge someone for asking a question. That would completely undermine the spirit of this community. Also, as stated earlier, this is a hobby for me. I will not build lightsabers for others. That is a huge commitment, and my primary passion is being a public school teacher. Again, glad you enjoyed the video.

After I saw this comment, I went into the google drive folder linked in the video description and created a google doc with a list of the parts/tools I used for this build. i figured that would be better than copying a huge list of things into this comment thread. Hope that helps.

@@jraffytaffy2678 Thank you very much! Is there an access code that we need to access the drive? It says I need an access code!

It shouldn't require an access code. Whenever people try to access it, it will send me a "request for access" and then I go into my google drive settings and give people access, which should inform you you have access when I do that. I haven't seen your access request in google drive yet. Are you AbeZ?

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1yZ-Cq3bFiJ4bfVec6DENoer7fYYxbSiV?usp=sharing

@@jraffytaffy2678 oh ok I just requested access. Thank you!

You will need to click on the link in the description for the Google drive folder. You will have an option to request access there. Once you have done that, I will receive a notification and can give you access.

This is the one I bought: www.thecustomsabershop.com/Foam-tube-for-78-thin-and-1-thick-tubes-V2-P1335.aspx They have a couple other foam options on their site under the pixel blades section. I used 1” thin walled tube for the blade cause I didn’t plan on doing any dueling. If I wanted to to a little more dueling I can always just build a blade with thick walled tubes.

With the CFX sound card, you could do everything I did in the video just swap out the neopixel setup for a single high powered RGD led setup. I would recommend the Tri-Cree RGB led. You’ll need a heat sink for the led and the blade would need a tip with a mirrored end. I recommend you go to the video playlist I have in this videos description and watch Rob Petkau assemble a basic saber with a high powered led. You can learn from that video how to wire it up. I chose the neopixel setup because I wanted the higher brightness and effects a single high powered led can’t provide.

Hello. I was doing some research over my Christmas break, and I thought about you and this conversation. So I thought I'd share this with you. There are these new NPXL blade side PCBs that come with pins that connect to a neo-pixel blade, but they also come with 16 LEDS as well. I believe people have been using them as a way to light up blade plugs, but it might be a way to have both a neopixel blade, and a regular LED blade. I'm interested in switching to that because that means I could save my neo-pixel for show but if I wanted to find a friend and wail away at each other with a stunt blade I could do that without worrying about damaging my pixel blade. I'm emailing the TCSS guys to see what they think about this concept. If you are interested, I can share with you the results of my inquires. Here is a link to the PCB I'm talking about: www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pre-Soldered-NPXL-V3-Hilt-side-PCB-connector-Long-Pins-P1787.aspx

@@jraffytaffy2678 ah alright thanks

@@TheEpikGamer So it looks like those LEDs are probably not bright enough to light up an entire blade. Oh well.

I've scanned the CFX manual, and it appears that the bluetooth setup is manly for configuration of the sound module settings, not for connecting to a bluetooth speaker. Its possible that the sound could play through R.I.C.E. on your computer while connected to the bluetooth module, but i tend to configure my saber using the SD car directly or using apps on my phone such as Crystal FX and ForceSync. I'd have to do further research to discover any additional possibilities.

This is the one I bought: www.etsy.com/listing/731446306/saberforge-112-cfx-modular-lightsaber?ref=shop_home_active_7 I got the 4-40 rods and nuts from the custom saber shop.

To match the color of the blade is pretty simple. I plugged the SD card into my computer and selected the config.tx file inside the main folder. For each of the color profiles I created, I made the xcolor match the main blade color. xcolor is the crystal color. Then, Page 34 of the manual shows this. The next step is to go into each led.tx in each font folder and program the accent led pads you have wired to do what you want them to do. Since my Leds are wired to accent pads 5, 6, & 7, set those leds to pulse when the saber is idle. If you look at page 83 and 84 of the manual, it gives you several ways you can program the crystal led. You can have it match the blade actions, or do its own thing.

I’m not sure what code you are referring too?

@@jraffytaffy2678 a python program (or else) to operate the board

a python program (or other) to operate the card

You do not need a python program. You just need a text reading app on your computer and a way to plug the SD card into your computer. On Mac, you can use text edit, for pc you can use notepad. You can change settings there. The manual for the CFX can tell you what the numbers mean. Also, go to the RU-vid page for crystalfocus.net. Tristan shows a video where he plugs the board into the computer with a data cable and can control the settings of the CFX using the Crystal focus app.

The total cost of the materials was roughly $550-$600. However, since I live on a teacher's salary, I purchased the supplies in around 5-6 total orders. It took me about 4 or months to accumulate all the supplies. in that time, I studied the CFX manual extensively, did a lot of planning, sketching, brainstorming, etc to prepare for the build process. I also watched as many build videos as I could find on youtube to help. Rob Petkau's videos with The Custom Saber Shop and Genesis Custom Sabers were the best at helping me get acquainted with the process. I included those videos in a playlist linked in the description.

@@jraffytaffy2678 thank you, I was wondering how it compares to buying a finished product. If it is worth or not. Got my answer

@@bastienguilbaud5768 If you are interested in building your own lightsaber, there are definitely less expensive ways to get started. Here are some ways I could have lowered the cost. 1. Do a single high powered LED (like Tri-Cree) instead of neopixel. Neopixel blades have great features, and can be just as durable as High power LED blades. But they are $120 more expensive. 2. Hilt parts: I used 3 extension parts to make my hilt. I could have saved $75 -$150 dollars just getting a blade holder. a long hilt main body, and a pommel from The Custom Saber shop. 3. No crystal Chamber or Bluetooth. These aren't needed in a lightsaber. It's all aesthetics. 4. Use a cheaper board like the Nano Biscoti or Pico Crumble. All these cost cutting options could have saved me $300 or maybe more, but I chose this route cause I wanted the challenge of building a "higher end" saber and I enjoyed custmoizing to make it truly my own. I wouldn't say my saber is at the quality level of some of those amazing builders like Genesis Custom Sabers or KR Sabers, but the more features you add, the more cost. You may just want to get your feet wet with a simpler build. If you look at the playlist linked in the description, Rob Petkau did a couple of videos for the custom saber shop about basic/cheap builds. But, if you do want all the features and don't want or have the time to put in all that work for it, it will of course cost more. This saber may have cost me $550 to $600, but paying someone else to do the same work could bring the total up even more. But it's all up to what you're inspired to do and what you're looking for. Cheers mate. Hope you find what you're looking for.

@@jraffytaffy2678 thank you very much for the break down of the price. I do want a high end Lightsaber but for the sake of my wallet and to check if I'm really into this, I'll probably start with a stunt saber. In hilt LED, heavy grade blade for maximum whack. And if sound there is, it will be a basic board.

@@bastienguilbaud5768 Awesome. I would recommend checking out this video to help you get started: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pOpUSCsXXhk.html You can find it in the playlist I shared in the description. I'd also recommend starting with the Nano Biscotti as your first board. www.thecustomsabershop.com/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-Module-V4-P806.aspx Good luck, and have fun with your first build!

No, you have to wire the switches to the board. But I would say that is probably one of these easiest things to do on the whole set up.

@@jraffytaffy2678 No i mean on the programming part, does it come set up for an aux switch or i have to program it ?

@@b.h9186 oh, I see. You don’t have to program it. Once you have it wired up up, it works. The CFX Manuel gives a lot of detail on what the aux can do. Once wired, you press and hold to select your font menu, you can press it at the same time as the main switch to cycle through colors, and when the blade is lit you can use it to trigger blaster bolts and lockup. All of that is pre-programmed. How can change how you cycle through your colors, blade profiles, and menus though.

@@jraffytaffy2678 thanks mate, I thought i had to program the auxiliary aswell

@@jraffytaffy2678 does it come with more than one font ?

I would recommend that everyone wanting to build a saber does so on a budget that fits them. For me, it took 5 or 6 months to gather all the materials. That's one of the nice things about The Custom Saber Shop, you can buy one piece of your saber a month until you finally have all your pieces. Kind of like the lightsaber building quest in KOTOR II where you gain a piece of a lightsaber on each planet you visit till you have all the pieces and build them. One thing that was nice about all that time I had waiting to get each part was it allowed me to spend more time researching how to do things and planning out more thoroughly what I wanted to do.

Not necessarily. It depends on the store and how much customization goes into it.

LOL The pain is real!

If I am reading the translation correctly, I do not do custom lightsaber building for other people. This is just a hobby for me and I do not have the time or motivation to commit to turning this into something more. I am humbled that my work I have shared in this video has inspired you to ask for me to build something, but I must respectfully decline.

@@jraffytaffy2678 дружище, я не владею английским в совершенстве, но смог с первого взгляда перевести просто по смыслу твой текст. Но буду честен, всё таки я его перевёл досконально, и благодарен тебе за столь точный и откровенный ответ. Ещё спасибо и за то что просто ответил, а то обычно игнорят и всё. Ну а по поводу твоего хобби, то я тебе так скажу : в тебе погибает великий конструктор и инженер. У тебя золотые руки и растут от туда откуда надо. Удачи тебе землянин.