Building A CUSTOM CANTILEVER Suspension For DRIFT TRUCK V2!!! 

Forgot to mention, the Finesser Giveaway is only available for people in the US!

I would highly recommend putting a sleeve through the frame where the cantilever bolts go through, it will limit the frame from being punched/crushed, also increase strength a lot seal the frame from debris going in etc... Offroad trucks do this often and bolts through frames without sleeves fail

Welcome to the metric system, it's a pleasure to have you join us. Remember this moment, 80 past 2 on April 47th!

Probably a good idea to make a rear bash bar, in case you give a wall a little love kiss. Better to make another bash bar than the whole rear suspension.

You should adjust the coilover and it's mounts so that the coilover bottoms out on its bump stop before the axle crashes into the frame. This will ensure that the shock is not overextended during droop, as that would ruin the coilover instantly. A limit strap to control droop would be a good idea as well. This machine is looking awesome, a stark contrast to it's first iteration! Can't wait to see it on the track!

Switching to metric is an awesome move! You were driving me nuts with all the 16ths and 8ths and stuff!

I just saw the Project Tour t-shirt that you released and I checked the dates and I’m like “there’s no way I have been watching since 2017 with the rally Miata” but here we are. Caleb you have always been an og, I’m so happy I was able to find your channel 6 years ago, I have always enjoyed watching your content, I can’t wait to see drift truck v2 when it’s complete.

The only thing I don't like are the intersecting holes but it'll probably be fine, if it breaks it'll probably just clunk a bit and be slightly lower.

I was thinking in the last video: come on, leave this 3/8 minus 4/6 multiplied by 4/7 and whatever and turn to metric, its way easier and intuitive! Glad you adopted it! 😁

This is looking sick, I'm just concerned about the cantilever bolts not having any vertical bracing since they will be experiencing tons of vertical stress throughout the travel range.

Hopefully for some of those bolts they have a high enough shear force rating, especially the cantalever bolts.

Those sharp angles on the frame "notch" are going to be stress risers. You should add some gussets in those corners.

It is looking very nice, the only thing that I noticed is that you welded the top mounting brackets of the springs of the cantilever setup strait to the bar. The springs are under a lot of pressure longways because they can not pivot at the end. If the bar can rotate or the springs have an pivot system in it, than it is ok. If not, you have springs that want to go in a banana like shape while they can only compress in 1 direction. I see it already in the video. That is why cantilever springs have at the bottom and at the top horizontal mounting bracket other than a vertical top and a horizontal bottom mounting bracket relative to the springs itself.

Holy moly I just realized that I have been watching you for 6+ years crazy how far you've come from making forza content to doing real & insanely dope project like this one. From making crazy cars in forza to crazy (even cooler) cars in real life absolutely blown away.

Very nice fabricating! I just wanna leave 2 thoughts here, 1, as others have pointed out the chassis side of the coilover needs to pivot too since the bell crank moves just a little bit up and down as the suspension moves, 2, I would have put the suspension on the front side of the axle just in case the rear quarter hits something, it would've been a safer spot for the custom setup. I hope this message gets to you keep up the good work!

If you're going to put the radiator under the bed, behind the rear axle, make sure to properly protect it from debris. If you're unlucky, popping a tyre could do some real damage to your radiator or hoses if you don't. Have you considered putting the fuel cell in the rear and the radiator between the axle and the cab? Anyway, I love to see you build on this level, keep it going, you're absolutely killing it!!

My only concern is the chassis side of the coil-over flexing under load.... All other cantilever suspension systems I have seen used bearing joints.

That suspension looks soooo cool. Can’t wait to see it in action. Need some go pro angles of the suspension working when you first drive and then drift it. That’ll be so cool. Maybe if you get a outside angle and a cantilever angle. Such a satisfying build to watch.

designing effective bell cranks can be tricky, the weight of the bell cranks can effect damper response but in this application I dont think itll effect you too much

Your ability to design and fabricate has gotten to be so impressive. I started following when you first turboed Molly the Miata with the Flyin Miata kit and now you're building a custom truck from the ground up

Killer job man, crazy how far your fabrication skills have come.

as a european, seeing you measure stuff in imperial hurts my brain, glad you're going metric

Nice work! The triangle part of your cantilever suspension is called a bell crank 😉

HELL YEAH! Switching to metric is the best thing ever! You will love it!

This is gonna be the cleanest coolest drift truck of 2023 🙌🏽😩it’s gonna be so nice 😍

Man I was here 4 years so when this build started, so inspiring man love your content.

For good measures mount the tank behind the wall in the middle of the bed so it will be safe from side collisions. 👍

Man this is so sick, these builds have been so impressive ever since you got into this new shop. Can’t wait to see the 1uz get dropped in!

Best part of my week. When a new drift truck video comes out

it's so easy to follow exactly what you're doing in these vids

All that work, you should make a plexiglass bed floor to show off all your work. Nice job🤘🤘🤘

Why did that flow switch @14:07 hit so hard! 😅 Awesome fabricating and editing!

This is the sickest parallel 4-link I've seen in a truck. I love the stance, too. Not to mention that a little squat will transfer some needed weight to the rear for better grip. Now, I know the front suspension is done, but I learned something really interesting recently about tire slip angle and how it relates to Ackerman steering geometry. Basically, the more load you have on a tire, the greater the slip angle can be without losing grip. To that effect, Formula 1 actually uses ANTI-ackerman since their outside tire is seeing more load than the inside due to weight transfer and downforce. The reverse is also true, the LESS load on a tire, the LESS slip angle it can have. So I had an epiphany after a few moments of thinking and realized that DRIFT CARS load up the leading front tire, but UNLOAD the trailing front tire in a drift. However, with Ackerman steering, during a DRIFT, the outside tire (in regards to the direction you're turning), which is trailing behind you with less load is the one that has a greater difference of angle compared to the direction of travel. Which means it experiences more slip angle with less load and therefore drags along while adding no control the the steering. Basically, it would give you WAY more front control if you switched your steering to ANTI-ackerman steering. It'll just drive a little strangely at low speeds when NOT drifting. Kinda like the front end equivalent to a welded diff skipping the tire. It'll also wear tires slightly faster in grip driving situations, though with high speed and good load transfer, it'll once again have MORE grip in the twisties with anti-ackerman.

The cantilever is typically called a "bell crank"

New merch looks solid man! Great work 🤘

The cantilever system definitely works, but it feels like lighting a cigarette with a blowtorch aka overkill. With a few modifications and improvements it could be closer to lighting a cigar with a blowtorch aka a bit more appropriate. For example you can use the triangle to get a mechanical advantage, or the corner of the triangle that the shock connects to is twice as far from the pivot point vs the corner that goes to the axle. In this example you could use shocks that are twice as long but only see 1/2 the forces. Also one inch of axle movement would be 2 inches of shock compression. This is how supercars with only a few inches of total suspension travel are setup. In those cars you would need crazy shocks to deal with the huge forces to keep the suspension within an inch or two of travel. Using the mechanical advantage allows the forces the shocks experience to be spread out over a longer distance. This also increases their responsiveness and characteristics of the dampening, because shocks are better at dampening large movements vs small movements. However I understand that this would require a bit of math and buying new shocks, but you wanted to use the shocks you already had. Perhaps in the future you might consider making new triangles and trying out longer shocks. Finally I'd also suggest shortening the bar that connects the triangle to the axle or use the bottom hole on the axle. You want the bottom of the triangle to be level with the ground at ride height or in the middle of the travel so that half of the travel the triangle is tipping down, and the other half of the travel the triangle is tipping up. Then you just lengthen the shocks to adjust ride height. This is because the more the triangle tips, the closer the axle gets to the pivot point, which reduces the leverage.

Racing dynamics and chassis geometry is so fascinating. It’s like art meets science then they meet racing lol

Craftsmanship in this video is Art!!

coil over on frame side needs a pivot too

This truck is coming put awesome I think the back half is my favorite part about it

The holes on your transfer plates should be at 90 degrees from each other centered on your pivot point. Otherwise the rate will change as the plate rotates. If the holes are at 90 and the levers are at the same angle, then your spring rate should be the same. You could also have a fixed rate change by changing the distance from the rotation point. but with the holes not at 90 degrees you have a progressive rate because the angle of leverage changes through the arc. It is minuscule in your setup, but it is there. Similar to your description of the panhard bar rotation. It is probably fine as is, but be aware that is happening because your holes aren't 90 on centers.

You, sir, deserve a like from me for finally switching to metric

That is a SWEET bellcrank suspension.

if someone hasn't said it already its called a bell crank . cool project for sure cant wait to see it done !

Well done Caleb! You are now becoming a professional fabricator, You used to be a fabricator, now you are a close to be a master fabricator. 😃🤘🏼

You should do a wood bed floor it would look sick and add weight in the rear

This thing is gonna feel so good drifting sideways in the track!!

cool video, I would have put the coilovers towards the cabin. Now, If you get tapped on a rear corner, your suspension may bind...

The link between the coilover and push/pull link is called a "bellcrank" awesome video btw

You may need spherical lower shock mounts as the rotation from the cantilever might blow out that rubber mount pretty quickly, also it might be better with rear mounted tank and rad might have to switch locations due to the drive shaft

Congrats for changing to metric system, clearly a step forward

I can’t wait until this thing is done, I think that box flares would look fantastic on this

Awesome, you are really taking it to the next level with this V2 build.

Man I love this build!! I'd cut out the rear metal panel below the bed and but a sick bash bar with a jack point. Easy rear wheel swaps!

got here within 7 MINUTES of uploaded im so hyped

This is going to be my favorite build yet

this man makes me realize anything is possible

You are a genius. Plain and simple.

So much respect to the amazing quality of your vids, and also the immense quality of the fabrication you do. Its so so so much better than you did in the old shop. Keep up the amazing work😍

Really coming along nicely! Also congrats from Canada for switching to metric. :P Seriously though I find myself using both... depends what I'm doing. But to measure something so I can cut something to match, metric is just so much easier.

It's a bell crank, nice work on the suspension

I am 1000% buying a metric tape measure. I can't believe I never thought to do that before.

Went ahead and got me the gingium truck shirt, That design looked soooo cool, I had to get it.

Suspension looks savage! Love it

Those bolt "spacers" connecting the pivots for the cantilevers should be braced in the vertical direction, not just horizontal. Just one more gusset for each should be enough.

you build the coolest stuff man, thank you for making awesome videos

The coil overs need to pivot on both ends, for sure, otherwise goodbye shock body. I’m interested to see if the cantilever bends the bolts it rotates on, I’m hoping not. Other than that, sweet setup! I saw others saying the coil overs should be positioned Infront of the axel, you could but I would rather have suspension out back rather than the fuel tank. That sounds like it could be an eclipse repeat. Can’t wait to see the next episode!

Magnificent achievement. The cantilever suspension is used on formula one racing cars.

Favorite RU-vid build by far awesome work

Is your rear mounting point of the shock aible to pivot? When the shock compresses, the front will move up a bit because of how your cantillever suspension works…

Crazy how far you have come in just a few years. Next project car needs to be another wrx wagon lol

this truck has come so far! cant wait to see it finished for V2!

I had an idea for the bed set up with regards to keeping it flat for storage. You should have the flat floor with side storage binds like the ram bed storage. Just my two cents. Keep up the great work going you’re killing it

comment on your welding ... adjust the wire feed to eliminate the splatter , clean out the nozzle , spray weld spatter eliminator. the voltage changes will be minimal after the speed is adjusted

Love the pushrod set up in the rear. Looks sick!

Super impressive. Looks so sick

Ah finally. I been waiting for you Gin!

I always watch all your videos. continue the hobby. love from Finland

Funny looking printer. Grate work keep it up.

You are an absolute genius I love your channel

Make a plexiglass cover in the bed so you can mount everything to it but still see all that hard work through it!

This looks way cooler than IRS. Glad you did this 😎

I think that pan hard bar having the bends in it will make it clunk and flop around. So much weight off to one side causing it to twist and turn.

i love your channel so much. My inspiration for the future.

I can already imagine this thing sideways with screaming supercharger. Man I can't wait.

you’ve got genuinely good merch designs, like… i’ll actually wear it outside lmao

Nice work mate!

I know it’s pricy but have you thought about doing some kind of air jack system make it easier to change out wheels on the go at track days ?

Rocker arm and pushrod are the words you're looking for.

The bo1 concussion sound effect in the intro is a really nice touch 😂👍

I strive to be this good at what I do, and hope one day my b2200 is on this level. Great job Caleb!

THIS THING SO SOOOO SICK

I love watching your fabrication work, this truck is so sick The Italian accent on the other hand, not as good lmao "Chyefsa Keesah" haha

Love this channel. Been a fan for a lot of years. It's always great to see the mathematics an actual build process an how evryhting works an functions is amazing. You don't see that very much anymore.. only other channel I know of is Jimmy oaks

Cooool! I love this truck. I'm so glad its getting the attention it deserves. I cant wait to see you competing at klutch kickers with it ;) I think you could fit 4 spare wheels between the roll cage bars , you could make specific quick release bars/mounts for those so you can easily and securely carry your drift spares with you.

I think u should go to the freedom factory with the volvo and maybe ask cleetus to race in the freedom 500 races

Underrated RU-vidr.

maybe I'm missing something but shouldn't the top of the coil over also be able to pivot a little to accomodate for the changing angle of the lever arm as the suspension articulates? that hard mount will eventually flex or break. Ideally, I would have also tried have the coils either go inwards or towards the front as to keep the mass as close to the center of the vehicle as possible for better rotational inertia

Hella late, but those Milwaukee's are really good, we use them daily in the Aitik mine in Sweden, big UP

Very cool, well done 👍👍