Building a DIY Prusa i3 in 2023 

The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/nikodembartnik09211

Next step Ender 3 to Voron SW ;) I did it and this is awesome! :)

Just got to see your video for the first time, completely by accident, came up along with other 3d print-related channels. Great content, cool videos (watched maybe 3 soo far) gonna watch more deffo! and also, keep up the great work, looking forward to another video!! Pozdroo ;)

Seriously, this was a very enjoyable video. Thanks!

Beautiful work and dedication, congratulations🤜🤛👏👏👏👏👏👏

This is pretty much how I made my second printer. Good stuff!

I'm only just building one of these for my first build. Thanks for the videos.

Excellent Work Niko

Really cool project! I am currently in the process of making a dremel CNC out of my old Tevo Tarantula. I agree, the building and problem solving processes can be tiring, but it is such a good reward when all is assembled and you realise you've made something new and better out of something that, unfortunately, some people would have chucked in the bin and ended up in landfill.

I have similar issues printing flexible filaments when the material is too wet. Drying the spool usually gives me great prints again.

Thank you for the great video on recycling. You are an inspiration.

Your Videos are EXCELLENT !

Gran proyecto estimado, saludos desde Chile ✌️

Excelent upgrade mate 👍👍👍

Great work! Very few parts left to throw away, good for the planet!

I did the same for my Anet A6 Prusified. But I used metal not wood for frame and lft original heatbed carriage. Nicely done!

It's a great idea reviving that old printer Nik!! I started with an old Mk2 clone I got from a friend, then built another two heavily modified i3 style printers keeping the kinematics on slightly larger frames, and both on 9mm plywood box frames. Much more rigid than single 18mm ply. Just a hint on bolting on or trough plywood, soak the holes with CA glue before assembly, makes the ply stiffer. And yes, dont forget washers :-D The only thing is, all plastic parts better be printed from PETG rather than PLA. Other than that, nicely executed project, well done!!

Te ha quedado muy bien. 😃 👍

Loved the video, especially the conclusion

Well done, Nikodem!

Nice work!

Great project and well executed. Adding Klipper and tuning it would bring the old printer into this age again.

Execellent idea, thanks for share.

Very Nice! Ive done the same but using conduit as a frame. Your flex filament issues could be due to not having the bite of the bondtech. I have printed beautifully with those, while the old tensioned filament wheel with a gear used in cheaper clones like my ANet A8 gave me a lot of problems. Once switched to bondtech it has been smooth sailing for the most part

Nice! I Have a prusa I2 and print many parts with quality.

I have an old Anet A 8 I might bring back to life

Well done ..... reprap concept applied nicely. :-)

I bought one of those china clone 3d printers for about £90 and it was not very rigid so i kept it as it was but mounted it on a ply base plate then added wood blocks to reinforce the frame using gorilla glue that made it very solid i added motor mounts printed by the machine plus another few improvements a extruder head ducting fan really improved things and my machine turns out prints better than my mates ender 3 he cant get it to work as good as my old cheapy clone ... good video and good luck with your projects

Добрый день, ты молодец!!! Самостоятельно изготовил принтер и умеешь работать на станках. У нас России такие ребята были только во времена СССР. Двигайся вперёд, и ты станешь великим инженером!

Super cool, I like your drive and skill💪✌️🇺🇸😎

Great video! Good editing and good audio! Im in the process of building an i3 mk2 from my old Prusa i2 (mendel), and i wonder how you did with the heated bed? Is the heated plate under the aluminium plate? i have been using a glass plate right on top of the heated bed pcb on my old printer, should i change that?

Hi, thanks for the video, it is great . If you want print on glass , you need to take thinner glass like 2mm and wait 5 minute after printing to the bed temperature decrease, in this way you can pull over your print with the hand with no difficulty. I saw you pull hard on them, you can broke or bend your prints: See you around

Jaki filament używasz i na jakich ustawieniach? Świetny projekt swoją drogą :)

I’m now close to four years in the 3D printing hobby and I am considering building my own printer. I feel like the journey of building one could take me into the next step of experience with 3D printers

I am impressed on how wel you did this, job wel done. I do however have some doubt about the plywood. Plywood could warp after a while, maybe you should make some enforcement to prevent the warping of the wood (just to be sure). overal, great project and wel executed.

Nice video!

It is my first day watching any of your videos, I don't know you and probably should not be saying this , but I am extremely proud of you.

Great rebuild/upgrade to an old printer! For the flexible, it looks like it's clogging since it started fine and then had issues. If part cooling is on, turn it off, otherwise I would only increase the print temperature and try again. 👍

Thanks

Thanks for this.. I have beds from old anet printers just hanging around collecting dust..

Hah dopiero w 5:18 usłyszałem jak wymawiasz "thing" i wiedziałem, że jesteś Polakiem. Wcześniej nie wiedziałem do końca co to za akcent, dobra robota. Powodzenia!

EXCELENT VIDEO.

Hello Nikodem Bartnik nice work. Where can I find the files on the frame? The link in the description goes to the printer part, not the structure frame.

"Fixing is always better than throwing away...". I totally agree.

Siema! Co to za system szufladek w którym trzymasz wszystkie śrubki? Jakiś gotowiec, albo samoróbka? Fajny pomysł, muszę u siebie uporządkować drobnicę :) Pozdrawiam!

I did similar build with my old homemade 3d printer. Can you share the spool holder stl for the plywood frame?

Looks great. I wish I was as good with 3d cad as you are. You should design and build a corexy 3d printer with klipper.

Maybe you should use the aluminium vslots profile to guide the Y carriage. You'll get more precious inches!

I would be interested in seeing you review other companies Mainboard. Comparing them against each other.

Hi, what settings did you use for your old prusa i3? And what firmware/software did you use? I'm having some printing/coordinates issues with mine.

seeing you are using the same masterspool as I do, have you ever had issue with filament getting stuck on the side ? Like if it was squished when the spool gets closed

@03:11 Am I the only one that sprays the hard to reach areas ( like the edges, corners, etc... ) of a part first to ensure good coverage in those areas without oversaturating the easily reachable and clearly visible ones sprayed afterwards? 🤔 I own an original *Prusa i3 MK3S & MMU2S* myself but have since started migrating over to a 350 sized *Voron 2.4* ( completed ) with aims of equipping it with an *ERCF* ( to replace the MMU2S ) and if there's one thing I'd like to suggest then it's replacing the i3 MK3S E-Axis with a Voron Afterburner/Clockwork one. Fixing any issue on the Afterburner/Clockwork is like a 2min easy to reach 4-6 screw disassembly/assembly thing as everything can be taken apart modularly allowing for the bulk of the machine to remain where you use it while you service the Toolhead elsewhere whereas on a Prusa i3 you're _easily_ looking at a 30-60min fuckfest with the entire machine needing to be unhooked from whatever is stuck to it ( cough... Power Cables, Network Cable, 5 PTFE Tubes, etc... ) come with you wherever you plan to service it ( ask me how I know after I had to replrint the entire i3 E-Axis after melting it down from 3d printing the ABS Parts for my Voron 2.4 )

Great job recycling the old parts! I really like the colors you chose - the blue and black combination looks fantastic! You've inspired me to give my old 3D printers a new lease on life too! #MotionSimBuilder :)

I congratulate you for your determination. A Turk from Germany

Is your frame DXF sized for you bed or is it the same just with the 2020 extrusion taps holes?

Can you please compare it with the Ender 3?

Super :)

with a new re build what firmware do you put on it, Im not into 3d print yet carnt make my mind up what to go for but its the electronic and computer side that baffles me especially when people say 8 bit or 32 bit or run klipper and octoprint 🤯

Looks exactly like my old printer. Just that mine was much worse because it was from 6mm plywood

Plywood will eventually absorb water and warp. I'd apply several layers of polyurethane varnish and/or epoxy to seal the wood before assembly. 3D printed extruder parts that are under spring tension will eventually fail. I'd have CNC'ed them from aluminum.

Excelente proyecto. Es mejor hacerlo en acrílico, son mucho más precisos los cortes y da mas firmeza.

Cześć mógł bys powiedzieć jak zamocowałeś krańcówki

Where can I get the x-motor and x idler stl file for tr8?

What are the measurements of the frames?

Nice 3d printer

try klipper on it and test the max acceleration

Now go ahead and remplace the main board and it will be top tier (maybe adding a bl-touch too)

Printer frame design how to download please sir

Hej jak zrobiłeś łóże grzewcze?

Did you use a square bed? Looks different from the original prusa size.

Bro you can get a BMG style gears from 7 bucks! Like from Spain!

Verry cool way to use a ender 3

Nice video but if you`re trying to get something better out of an old crappy printer you maybe should try a more recent kinematic e.g coreXY.

Would love to have the firmware file

could you please share the f3d file? thanks.

i hope the keys you showed at 11:45 are no longer in use, otherwise the video footage should be enough to replicate them (afaik that's how the "secret"-TSA Keys leaked a few years ago when an picture of the master key got published for an news article) Also Deviant Ollam has some interesting videos about lockpicking, "stealing" keys and physical pen-testing on his channel. In at least one of his talks he explains how to measure keys from a photo to cut duplicates.

looks like an aneta8???

skąd masz plan na oś Y?

I am worried about the warping of the frame. Perhaps reinforcement is needed.

Do you answer messages left on your website?

whst about the firmware???

That's a lot of eggs!!!

is that plastic that holds the hotend?

I'm curious about the plywood, how it's gonna behave in future, because plywood warp overtime quite often. Overall, great build!

Guys I soooo into 3D printing, if any one have old one and want to donate it I will be very grateful 🙏

A Prusa Bear or Caribou frame were a better idea, just a hint.

Najchętniej to zamknąłbym się w warsztacie i budował rzeczy.

Don't use zipties as structural parts. You could have designed something to replace this silliness

bro what is your age plz tell me

Crazy janky job xD

prusza

It is since forvever that I want a 3d printer and my brother is already recycling one 🤣🤣😭😭😭😭

Can we build one from scratch?

I sent you an email about CNC Dremel, and I didn't get a response from you! please could answer! thanks!

A wooden Prusa? So, a Spruce-a? ...I'll see myself out.

Just perfect It is bill Gates

ayyy

I am recruiting an electromechanical engineer m / f with skills in prototyping, patenting, creation / test / production management and business resources mission 1: help me determine which projects are the most profitable to patent / to create daughter companies mission 2: help me migrate to Sweden, patent the start-up projects there and establish a few daughter companies there mission 3: help me establish a few daughter companies all over the place mission 4: help me in R&D to cycle in patenting => creation of a daughter company 3000.00 € per month to start then paid by shares in daughter companies for human qualities the doctrine to adopt and promote is 'to believe one must not know, the only good belief is "to believe in humanity", it is equity'

and buy a used one... and redo it

To nie ma żadnego sensu, ani ekonomicznego, ani ekologicznego. W praktyce można wykorzystać naprawdę niewiele części, natomiast wywalamy do kosza jakieś 80-90% starej drukarki. Lepiej by ją było komuś sprzedać albo oddać, a tak jedyne co powstało to film na yt.