I've always heard that the best woodworker isn't one that doesn't make mistakes but one that can hide them. You owned that last mistake like a boss. Well done
I think I've made every mistake you made in this video at one stage, it's really cool you left those in to show what can and does happen on the way to such an excellent result. Very inspiring build.
I think all of us diy luthiers have had the router jump on us like that, though that was more intense than anything I've experienced. That thing had air time. Glad to see you made the most of it though, it's a wicked axe. Stay safe. 😅
I learned afterwards that the Infinity Tools bit is known to seriously throw if it ever grabs, so starting on end grain was just asking for it to happen.
@@DUY1337GUITAR absolutely gorgeous Guitar! I haven’t built one from scratch like that, but I have built a few from kits, and bare necks and bodies! I have someone on my channel. And a few that I customized. ☮️💜
Yoooo you've came a long way man, I forgot I was still subscribed from like 13 years ago on your dye job videos. I followed at the time because I was doing the same thing.
Thats a great video and a great walkthrough of your process, thanks for sharing it. Out of curiosity, would you he able to tell me where you got the router skid and frame? I cant see anything on the website of the brandname on it. It looks really good amd smooth.
As someone who does a lot of laminating for furniture, hear are a couple of tips to help you glue better. Instead of a flat paddle to spread your glue, try either a foam paint roller or a silk screen ink roller. It will make a more uniform layer of glue (thin and even with complete coverage). Also, use cauls instead of the two center clamps. Cauls are easily made, you want the board you use to be taller than wide, as it works better for distributing the clamping force. Flatten one edge, then the arc built up through multiple layers of tape, like a pyramid) will give more even pressure across the full gluing surface. A great video that shows the process is: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KdeUBuCOBBQ.htmlsi=f4HFT6nFMx7caQRy You can skip to about 3 minutes in, if making the cauls is all you want to see.
I am gonna say yeah mistakes happens but when u are good at hiding it and the abalone where the neck pickup was where u drilled thru the body looks like it was a purpose designe to be there
Can you help me out on what to shop for when building one of those 2 axis router jigs? I’ve always wanted to do that but never got around to finding the best place to buy those parts. I’ve seen expensive kits but wasn’t sure if that’s just the lazy way to do it….or the only way
Just have to add…omg that move you made with the pickups to make them angled was nuts! I would never have the balls to try that but you made it look like it was nothin!
@@redfurydubstep In reality, I was nervous taking apart those expensive pickups haha. When I discovered we could convert pickups just by changing the baseplate, that solidified my choice to go for a multiscale build.
I would have gotten one of the kits from woodgrainjunkies and sourced the rails separately if I had a trim router, but I have a larger router so I had to make my own from parts. When you order the rails (amazon and ebay have them), they often come with the bearing blocks and clamps included. Rails on the table: SBR16 rails with SBR16UU bearing blocks. Rails for the router: SFC16 rails with SC16 bearing blocks and SK16 clamps. You can search for their spec sheets to find bolt sizes.
Amazing work! I really enjoyed watching the build process and the creative way to overcome the mistakes. I was wondering what that kind of strap lock is called. I've looked around, but couldn't find anything similar.
Thank you! These strap locks are the "flush mount" Dunlop Straplok. They have the same button mechanism as their standard Straplok, so make sure to review the product image carefully.
Designing and planning probably 1 month. The actual building spanned probably 3 months with me constantly learning on the go and strategizing. In terms of actual hours, I'm not sure; I should track that next time.
I like it; it was nice that I could brush it on in the living room and not deal with any solvent smells. May try spraying it this year though. I did about 12 coats. There's a Crystalac Facebook group dedicated to instrument finishing. A lot of help can be found there.
@@DUY1337GUITAR could you tell please, what kind of cover do you use on a body? As far as I understood first you use some sort of stain. What kind of dye was that? is it just a normal wood paint or is it some other sort of solution? do you blend it with activators or it's just a simple dye. I would really appreciate if you write a name of some dye you used. Could you also tell, what do you apply at 47:10 using spray can? And I also a bit confused. So you applied a finish lacquer with manually with foam and then sanded it slightly to polish after at 52:40, right? And also what's the difference between polishing at this time section? Do you used two different polishes for coarse and fine polishing? Thanks for your answers.
@@user-et7cm4by2t I used transtint dyes mixed with denatured alcohol. After dye, I sprayed Mohawk's pre-catalyzed sanding sealer to seal the color. I wiped on Aqua Coat grain filler (several applications) and sprayed sanding sealer again. For clear coat, I brushed on Crystalac's water-based polyurethane. Since this is a water-based finish, I can't wet sand like with lacquer, so I used Super Assilex and Super Bufflex abrasives for dry sanding after a month of curing. For polishing, I used Menzerna 2500 compound, 3800 compound, and Power Lock.
@@DUY1337GUITAR So in total: 1. stain -> 2. dyes -> 3. sanding sealer -> 4. grain filler -> 5. sanding sealer -> 6. polyurethane (pure or water-based) -> 7. dry sanding. Should it really be curing than long? A whole month? Is it viable to apply another type of finish that can reach proper condition for further operations within a couple days? I also would like to ask. For example if I want to leave a body with natural color and tactile feeling what should I use after staining? Is it fine to use tung oil or wood oil? Are they reversible? I mean do I have a risk to have a reaction with hand salt while playing at touch spots? As I heard, Gibson like to use oils as finish and they have those issues while you play 2-3 months and body becomes sticky, greeny with lots of dirt from hands. Are there any ways to prevent it without using gloss / satin solid finishing?
