Building a materials and storage loft 

Thanks much!

Thanks so much! Have fun getting your loft built.

Same here

Thanks so much!

@@TheTinkirWorkshop what fasteners did you use to to attach the wood headers to the steel tube?

How far in did you countersink cause I've been doing my head in trying to figure out, what size he used cause the 2-7/8" wouldn't work. It's just enough to not pierce the wood. Which screws to use that would tap thru AND be long enough, was it the same headlocks he had with a countersink or the tek screws you mentioned?

Thanks. It definitely made the bulls go faster and easier.

Thanks

Thanks bud! 👊🏼

Awesome! Best of luck.

Thank you!

That’s a really smart idea. I thought about putting almost like a sliding library ladder on it at one point, but it just didn’t work out with what I had in the shop.

Thanks so much!

Thanks for the feedback, but this is plenty strong. The header is lagged into 1/8” steel, not thin metal. The back header hits at least 4 steel studs and the front hits 2 plus the 6x6 support in the middle. It’s more than sufficient for this purpose. With it fully loaded with material and storage, it hasn’t even budged even if I’m up there climbing around.

Glad the info was helpful! After having the loft for a good while now I’m very glad I did it. Best of luck on your build.

Thank you!

Just found the box of screws. They’re Teks® #21385 SELF-DRILLING SCREWS WOOD-TO-METAL #12 DIAMETER 2-3¾ LENGTH

So my total width was 20’ across which is why I did the beam in the center. I think at 10-12’ you’d be fine without it. And thanks about the jig. It really helped speed up the process.

If anything, I feel like it’s made it stronger. Plus it’s been up for 2 years with a ton of weight on it and no issues, so 🤷🏽‍♂️.

@@TheTinkirWorkshop what did you use to connect the header to the metal tubes/post?

@@kosk9291 he said a lag screw, but from what I’ve ready you shouldn’t use lag screws on these metal tubes. I’m trying to figure this out myself

Looks like it would make everything stronger You really didn’t need to double the back wall

Hey Ken, I would highly recommend insulating your shop before you start moving in equipment. That is definitely one thing I regret not doing from the beginning. I definitely plan to do it in the near future though.

I ended up using some self tapping screws to go into the metal frame. I can’t remember the size, but probably something around 3.5” - 4” in length.

I don’t remember the exact size, but I used a pretty large self tapping screw to go through the wood into the steel beam. I did need to pre-drill a little bit just to help the self tapers since the steel was so thick.

I’m doing this in a week or two and I’m putting 6x6 posts at all four corners plus one in the center of each long run. (10’x28’ - similar to your dimensions) I don’t trust screws through that thin-wall tube to hold the weight. I know there’s potential to overload it so I’d rather transfer the load to the ground. If you’ve ever stripped a self-tapping screw in that tube steel, you know it doesn’t take much. The cost of a few extra posts, anchors, and header brackets is worth it. You don’t need those expensive post anchors either since it’s interior. The simple angle brackets for posts will be fine.

@@nopainnogain125 Those are all great things to do. Having that loft will open up so much extra space in your shop for sure! Best of luck.

Sorry, didn’t mean to keep you hanging. I just finally found the box. Teks® #21385 SELF-DRILLING SCREWS WOOD-TO-METAL #12 DIAMETER 2-3¾ LENGTH

Did you ever figure out what to use to secure the header to the metal tubing? This dude wasn't very thorough. It looks pretty good, but he left a lot out.

@@madcow5x5 no I didn't he never got back with me.

I got them off Amazon. It was just like a 10 pack of led bar lights. They shine 360°.

Yeah, it’s still holding very strong. I never had an issue with the weight added to the metal tubes. In fact I think it tied them together and made it all much stronger.

My walls are 8’ and my guess is that my roof pitch is 3/12. It’s not that steep. If I were to do it again, I’d definitely do 10’ walls, but I do like the current roof pitch.

@@TheTinkirWorkshop Thx for the reply. Good to know about the roof pitch. The 3/12 is standard... but 4/12 is a $1500 upgrade.. so I'm undecided if its worth it or not. I'm definitely doing 10' walls tho.. and we're building it on a stem wall foundation so that'll actually give it another 8" in height.

@@randomstuffwithjoe that’s awesome! I love having that type of building for a shop. It’s been very good to me so far. Next step is figuring out insulation. One of my big regrets not doing that at the beginning.

@TheTinkirWorkshop I found a person selling 4x8 sheets of Poly iso foam board. They were rejects from the manufacturer.... paid $25 a sheet. My 26x 20 building took 46 sheets to insulate. I bought 60 but sold the remainder to someone else.

Not at all. The header so screwed right into the steel uprights. It’s been super solid!

@@TheTinkirWorkshop thanks for replying! I saw where you said you use 3/8 inch self tapping screws. Where did you find self tapping screws long enough to accomplish that? I’m having a hard time finding them for some reason.thanks for replying, I’ve been kicking my own tail all day fooling with angle iron trying to come up with an answer!

@@paullegare7502 I honestly can’t remember. I went back and watched the video and it looks like I may have used those timberlok screws. I’ll have to double check when I get home.

@@TheTinkirWorkshop Thank you my friend, I really do appreciate it

Teks® #21385 SELF-DRILLING SCREWS WOOD-TO-METAL #12 DIAMETER 2-3¾ LENGTH

Walls are 8ft tall.

@@TheTinkirWorkshop Thank you for the fast response. I hope my build turns out as well as yours.

@@andrewjames3411 You’re very welcome. Best of luck on your build! -Kris

I can’t remember off hand. It was a pretty substantial self tapper. Maybe 3/8”.

I just found the box of screws I used. Teks® #21385 SELF-DRILLING SCREWS WOOD-TO-METAL #12 DIAMETER 2-3¾ LENGTH

We have the same building and also keep tripping over the threshold of the doorway. Any suggestion from anyone other than a wooden ramp of sorts?

Cut it out and replace with a framed door.

Was about to ask the same question.

Appreciate the feedback, but I didn’t need anyones validation on what I should or shouldn’t build. This loft has been in place for over a year and has more than exceeded expectations. As for lack of insulation, I just haven’t been able to afford it yet. So I regularly keep up with machine maintenance to avoid the rust issues.

@@TheTinkirWorkshop You're right, you didn't. And when it falls and injuries a loved one, well, that's on you.

It’s 20’ x 25’.

My shop is 20 x 25.

Nice! We got a 14'x28 and a 12x24!

Yeah, that would help for sure. But I’m usually only putting cut offs up there. Not really storing full sheet goods.

Oh geeze. I honestly can’t remember. I tried looking for some e-receipts but couldn’t find any for when I built this. I’d imagine it would cost at least twice now what it originally cost me to make.

There are no outside beams because the headers are screwed directly into the steel structure and are more than solid.

@@TheTinkirWorkshop ok cool, thanks for replying

How so?

Columns not designed to take lateral forces. But hey as you said been standing there for years now so wgaf

Yup, I’ve already fixed that in my shop. Unfortunately it’s in the video so I can’t change how the orientation was during filming.