By popular demand, I made the case shown in this video available for sale over on my website. You can get it in either a 3x5 and 3x6 layout along with wired or wireless variants: scottokeebs.com/products/scottocorne-keyboard-case
so yeah - ~ a year ago, when i told myself that i wanted to learn how to build a keyboard - yours and Zach Freedman's videos are what i meant. not, just as an example, paying thousands of dollars for overpriced small-batch components that take 2 years to receive to ultimately make typing sound like popping bubble-wrap (in a bad way). thank you so much for making these videos, especially one which covers the process and considerations made when making a case!
If you set infill to 100%, you’ll see that there are still gaps in the print depending on what pattern you’re using. By setting it to treat all layers as bottom layers, it ensures it will print completely solid regardless of the infill pattern.
I don't want to sound like the "well actually", but here it goes anyway: you can set the infill percentage to 100% to achieve the same effect as setting the bottom layer to 1000. It's better to do it like that because it's the 'real' way to do it and it will be more stable.
It depends on the slicer, some will print solid, others won't. By setting the bottom layers to a high number you ensure that the print will actually be solid.
I have ordered most of the parts to do this build although 3x6 for now with the option to go smaller in the future. Did you are do you know how to attach a power switch to turn of the keyboards on a v2 board?
Hey! Quick question. Was there any particular reason why you chose to go with that specific iteration of the PCB? (v2) as opposed to something like a v3?
I think I want to try a low profile corne next. ^^; I bought a sofle kit to put together, but with all of the surface mounted diodes I was a little out of my league. ^^; Where did you get the Corne with through-hole diodes?
I got it from Little Keyboards but you can get it anywhere that sells the "Corne Classic" PCBs. The V2 and up only use surface mount and even more, the V3 only comes in a 3x6 variant without a break off board for 3x5.
It is more than enough for coding, I do it all the time and plan on making a video taking about it soon. Here is the keymap: github.com/joe-scotto/zmk-config-corne/blob/main/config/corne.keymap
@@joe_scotto cool, turned the bell on for your channel and looking forward to review ;) Some questions for future video: How do you switch between apps? Dedicated arow keys are really useful, isn't it uncomfortable having them on another layer? Doesn't it make U mad having to jump over layers all the time?
@@MrSergpank I personally have a 34-key keyboard, and I don't have any issues with it. I also spend a lot of time programming, and designed my layout around that and typing. Having arrow keys under a layer is far more comfortable because you don't have to move your hand to reach them, they're accessible under a thumb key and the home row. I only have 2 thumb keys per half, so there's minimal movement. As for switching applications, I personally use Linux with the i3 window manager, but I have a set of Alt, GUI and Ctrl on each layer, so doing something like Alt + Tab is trivial. Here is a decent demo that showcases programming with these tiny boards: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IZ83uU0ltaE.html
Yes. There is normal Bluetooth delay however if you plug in the master side it will have normal USB latency on that half. Both halves still will communicate with Bluetooth low energy with I believe 7-30ms of latency, but don’t quote me on that.
Oof. 7-30 would seem to be extremely high. That would mean that you are playing at like 40-60 when you also count in processing and internet delay.. which counts as unplayable
Too high to game with but low enough that you don’t notice it typing. You can plug the board in and use it wired if you need the lowest possible latency.
