Yea I might put a wiper on it and make a video if I get time. If I’m not filming it’s pretty easy to see what I’m doing as long as I don’t blast back into the glass.
@@MarleyJaxGarage Great tutorial! You could run an airline with a small blow gun to shoot air at the window to clear it as well as spray on the part to clear it of water and media so you can inspect it easier. The hose with a sprayer is a great idea and doesn't take up too much room in the cabinet. Thanks for taking us through the entire build, and giving us a bunch of tips and techniques. Keep up the great content. I'm looking forward to building this project in the future.
your PUMP has 110V in it from the black plug - it sends power thru the float switch, but youve wired it backwards and have LIVE power sticking out of a male lamp cord and you hooked the female lamp cord to the DEAD switch end, if you unplug that white cord you will get bit, or worse - the male cord end should be on the switch, the female (safe) end should be on the pump float wires
The strategy is to first clean off surface, then reduce surface tension of metal to increase strength, especially welds. Always only use minimal aluminum oxide first on heavily coated surfaces. It is very abrasive and will open micro fissures, causing risk of crackes. Glass beads act like tiny shot peen hsmmers and close some fissures and reduce surface tension, like polishing. Always carefully test thei materials like body panels not to cause deformation. Adjust angle and pressure carefully 👍 Cheers 🍻 Nice machine.
Very nice explanation!! I believe this has to be the best conversion videos I have seen so far. I have one of these and have been accumulating the pieces needed to convert mine over to vapor blasting. I am about to start a RU-vid channel with the build of a 1928 Morgan Hillclimb race car. I am going to specialize in pre war race cars and have been putting together a machine shop to support my builds. I found the coolest Drilling/tapping station from the aerospace industry before there ever was one...
Obviously the aluminum oxide will look better since it is the harder material and is taking some of the base material off during blasting. This should always be a major criteria in choosing blasting medium, if, and how much, the base material can be thinned. In addition, how will adjacent, machined surfaces be effected by the blasting medium.
I didnt know where u was going with this but after i seen it work yer cool works good. U could use another foot pedal for the glass sprayer an maybe add a small car wiper set up to. U opened my mind to out of the box ideas. Well done😁
The white male plug that comes from your pump and goes to the switch has probably a live prong. So if your pump is connected to mains with the black wire and then you touch the pins of the wite plug when it is unplugged you will probably fry yourself. I hope i got it wrong though i don't think so.... You need to put the plug (pins) to the switch wire and the socket (holes) to the pump side and stay alive. Awesome project by the way
Awesome setup, Marley, RU-vid suggested your video to me and then I saw the V3 Vapor Blast gun. It's great to see it working in your cabinet. I've had great success using Harbor Freight's 80 grit glass beads to decontaminate aluminum parts the size you are working with in your video and then switching to 175-325 US sieve glass beads as the finishing polish. Keep up the great work. New subscriber here.
Awesome video, I would recommend a small water pump with flexible nozzel o. Inside to run constant to wet glass, and install a water proof windshield wiper put inside with speed adjustment, and add a big piece of rubber mat hanging down inside by door, so u open door push up rubber mat put your dirty part in the mat falls and protect from any water or glass bead shooting around door seals and no leaks or mess around door
Saw what you did in the cabinet Very simply done and easy to fix if need be Can you provide a parts list of what all you used so I can buy what you used
I am considering turning my dry blast cabinet into a build like this, but I have been running a blend of aluminum oxide and glass bead for a balance of cleaning power and a decently smooth finish. I would recommend using sikka flex for sealing it all together if building one from scratch like this, its a great sealant/adhesive strong enough to hold in a tour bus window under extremely demanding scenarios for years without leaking
That is one nice killer setup! I think my dry sandblaster will be only used for under chassis of a vehicle now, as you cant fit a vehicle in that cabinet lol... Definitely the way to go fir All Removable parts though fure sure!
Very interesting and informative video. Thank you. I know you said you used 60 psi and I was wondering what size compressor you used, size and output. Thank you again.
Absolutely awesome video. Step by step, good camera work. Clear easy to understand audio!! I haven't looked yet, but do you have a list of items used for your build somewhere? Thank you so much for sharing this
good job bro you saved yourself a ton of money you just need to install windshield wipers to solve the blurry window I think the small vapor cabinet is 2500 so you did good worked good
I didn't know about the vapor set up before. I just saw Sarah N tuned use one of these with very impressive results and decided to check it out further. After seeing your video and how it is put together, my biggest question is how long do the pumps last with all that abrasive running through them. If they do hold up well, this set up looks much better than a plain sandblaster. Thanks for sharing your build.
Thanks for all the info. The only thing I noticed (I bought most of the parts you listed) is that the link to the fitting that attaches to the pump is wrong. It 1 1/4” to garden hose threads. It needs to be 1” to garden hose threads (thankfully Amazon gave me a refund with out a return.). Instead I just 3d printed a fitting. Good work.
Did your sump spray out of the top while running? Like a pressure relief maybe. I ordered the same one and set it up the exact same way but and getting a misting spray out of a little hole on the top
The only constructive criticism I could give you is it only takes a second to wipe up the white adhesive as your putting everything together and would have made your new cabinet look like a commercially bought one. The second thing is you probably don’t need a vacuum with a vapor blast cabinet. One suggestion on how to keep the glass clean. Maybe try a small plant mister. You could maybe leave it running while you’re blasting, hopefully without adding much to the water level. Either way it Looks good Dude!
I have a large plastic IBC tank and am going to try using that for a wet blaster. You can find those pretty cheap, I paid 25 bucks. Get one with the metal cage around it and use that as a stand and frame mount for the door. They are larger so more room and plastic to wet is no problem. I was going to make it a dry bast cabinet but am picking up a used harbor freight unit tomorrow for cheap so using that as my dry bast unit. Wonder if a pressure washer would work for this using a siphon style tip?
Great video! The list of what you need and where to get it is very helpful. I'm trying to duplicate your setup, but there was also a little confusion in the comments about what size reducers you used for the pump to mount the hose splitter on, and the fitting that goes on the hopper; where did you get them and what size is needed? Thanks for the help, I'm pretty stoked about getting mine up and running!
Great video sir. I am just completing a machine, inspired by yours. I found an old dry blast cabinet to use. Are you still using any kind of cabinet ventilation? Also, do you have accurate data on how much media you use per gallon of water? Last question, for now, do you have a wiper or any automated sprayer setup for you window? In my trial runs I had nothing and it seemed to be pretty easy to see what I was doing. It still would be nice to at least have a fixed spray head aimed at the window, with an easily accessible valve.
Looks great, i am going through a build right now but seems to be lots of back and forth on the pedals, Victor Bared says you need to see the full 1/2 air through, yet other guys say they notice no difference using 1/2 or 3/8 airline/pedal. Curious if you feel the pedal in yours is a hold up at all? looks to be just 3/8?
I don’t think mine is affected that much but I haven’t tried without the peddle. It’s just a hobby machine and it has met all my expectations and needs. It probably depends on what you are using it for.
@@MarleyJaxGarage I ended up building it over the break here with the same pedal as you and I feel it's ok, I blasted a bunch of stuff and it looks great in my opinion. Appreciate the response and this video was a great help to me building mine! 🤟
@@jasonwade6715 weird, I run 80psi most of the time and no issues, my regulator is obviously after my pedal so it's a true 80, I have even went up to 100
Great build video. I've been wanting to build one as well, but I've be deterred because I think my compressor is too small. I have a 110V 2hp 20 gal compressor. It might do 3.5-4 cfm at 60 psi. What size of compressor were you running?
I have an old 5hp 60 gallon single stage compressor. It’s not the best but it can keep up with my projects. You could do it with a smaller compressor but it would take forever. The duty cycle on those small compressors aren’t great either.
I've watched a few of these vids and the funny thing is is that everyone contorts themselves around trying to silicon these all around on the inside when guess what? All those seems are on the outside also where you can get to them much easier and use half the amount of silicone, Apparently no one thought of that!!
It wasn’t hard at all to silicone this on the inside. Everyone does it on the inside because they don’t want a smeared mess all over the outside and it will be a better seal. It makes much more sense to spend 5 minutes inside doing it the right way.
Great video! I just finished building this and have one issue (other than a few leaks that need fixing haha), the pump will stop after a while, i guess it is clogged. Now i have been using very fine grit glass beads (170-340) because i had them, and the create a dense mush on the bottom of the bucket. I will get 80 grit glass beads and try those, but can you share which ones you are using? thanks!
I did show the box, I believe it was 80 grit from harbor freight. The pump should not stop, it’s a trash pump so should be able to handle the media. My guess is either your not agitating the media in the bottom of the bucket enough or the pump is bad.
You may be using to much media if it is mushy. Try much less and then ad more until it stops then back off a bit. Should work without needing that much media.
I wouldn't use aluminum oxide on the cylinder. You have little to no control on how much material You're shaving off of it. Stick to the glass media, and spend some more time in stead.
Yes it does mess them up a little. I don’t worry about the gasket surfaces or threads but piston rings need a honed finish. This is a cylinder that got bored and honed after this process. It looked so shiny and new because I had already practiced doing the machine work on it but didn’t take it to final size. Some people put big sponges in the cylinder and then ball hone it after a good wash if your just trying to restore.
When you blast with soda it turns into a vapor upon impact. Which in turn removes material. Hence vapor blaster. Vapor blaster & soda blasted are interchangeable, and a matter of personal preference on which one you use.
