That’s because C-3PO and R2-D2 are the main characters since they appear in every movie even the sequels where there is no Darth Vader and that is why they don’t have Luke’s X-Wing because everyone only cares about the main characters. *SAMSUNG PHONE RING TONE*
@@juanleon3875 Eheh! Good one. As a side note, I have met both Kenny Baker and Anthony Daniels at sci-fi conventions, not both at the same one, but I was (at that time) stupid enough to not get a photo with them, nor any autographs. I could easily have, but I just didn't, stupid me. I do however have my LoTR DVD Collectors box signed by a number of the actors in that trilogy, as well as a Dwarven Battle Axe replica signed by John Rhys-Davies/Gimli. He is coming to another convention I'm planning to go to in the end of April. I am thinking of picking up one more autograph on another LoTR item as well. It's mostly for my own sentimental reasons, not as some kind of investment to sell in the future. The day I pass on my son will inherit the items. I have met him twice already. He is really nice and takes his time with fans and talk to you and tell stories from his life. He spent a long time talking to my son as well. A really sweet guy. Alwasy fun when he turns up at conventions. :) My son took a photo with the original Boba Fett actor, Jeremy Bulloch. That's his favourite character from Star Wars, well at least it was until Disney ruined him and turned him into a joke in the Boba Fett series. Jeremy Bulloch was also a really nice guy.
I did this build a few years ago. It's a great kit. I remember the decals on R2 and Luke's helmet were IMPOSSIBLY small, but very accurate. Bandai is the best.
@@billsfilmsinc I built the AT-ST last year. Fun kit. Super easy and detailed. My kids love the Chewy on top. I wish they would do vintage automobile kits. I can't stand dealing with clunky AMT kits after being spoiled by Bandai.
I’m watching this cause I am about to plan my build and I like the shipping that you did. I’ve used a salt technique that I like, but I may try to find some liquid masking. With 1/72 I have a bunch of LEDs but semi-afraid to, put them in at that scale lol. I’ve done Gundam but mega size and MG only. My eyes are gonna hurt from squinting I feel like when I get going. But seeing this, it does look bigger than I thought.
Sadly, I can't remember the ratio, sorry. I just eye-balled it and got it slightly too white. Needed a few more drops of actual yellow in there. Good luck on yours!
I’ve seen some channels build first and paint after, while others paint pieces as they go along and assemble it fully towards the end. Which is better for a beginner?
It really just depends on how the model goes together. Sometimes it's easier to paint the sub-assemblies before you glue it all together, and other times it's easier to just paint the whole thing once it's all assembled. So it really just depends on the model.
Fair enough, I am too. Though at that scale, the figure need not be that well done, most of it can't really be seen...burgundy helmet with the "mohawk" in white, hey, look, it IS John D. (Good enough for government work, anyway)
I usually unmask right after I clean my airbrush, so maybe 3-4 minutes? That big chunk that came off at 8:07 was the latex masking. I used Winsor & Newton stuff on all the red, but the chips were too blobby, so I switch to my AMMO MIG masking fluid for the rest of the model. It helped produce finer chips.
No, I used NATO Black for the grimy engine parts. For the mist coat I used the base color mixture, which was a combo of white and light gray, thinned down a LOT.
@@billsfilmsincHi, I'm beginning to do my Red 5 soon. One more question. At what stage did you apply the mist coat with the base grey colour? Is it after you have painted the grimy engine parts?
@@fangchern691 I do the mist coat after all the initial colors are down, but before the general weathering (with the tamiya smoke color). Just thin down the base color a lot and be very conservative with how much goes on. Less is generally more. And good luck with your build!
New to airbrushing... when you say XF-2: 8 XF-80: 3, does that mean drops of paint? So 8 drops of XF-2 and 3 drops of XF-80? And I did read down in the comments that you thinned it a lot, correct? Great job on the build! Hope mine looks even close to it...
Yes, that is correct. If you add more paint, just keep it at an 8:3 ratio, and you should end up with similar results. For the mist coat at the end (to knock the colors down a bit), thin that mixture about 10:1 with thinner and build the paint up slowly.
@@Icy-zk9rh I use the glue at most plastic joints, where two parts come together. These Bandai kits are designed to snap together so they don't technically need glue, but I like to use it anyway.
Here's me hoping bandai reach out to military plamo, the industry is stagnating and we need bandai to shake things up so other company increase their product quality.
There are lots of companies that are disrupting the market currently. Sadly, I think Bandai is all but done with the Sci-fi (Star Wars) line. All I really wanted from them was a 1/48 Y-Wing....
Yes, it comes down to the nature of it being a snap-together kit. As you can see, the kit is molded in color, so there are larger panel lines where two colors meet than there would be otherwise. I wish Bandai would come out with an X-Wing whose fuselage was one large piece, like the old Fine Molds kit was.
