Cool trick! Something that works for me sometime, if the board in the middle is a little low, I put a short piece of 2x4 over all three and then screw down into the middle board and the screw draws it up.
Thank you for this great video. Can I ask how you have the outside board of the beam secured to the post? Is it tacked in place with a nail at each post or is it connected to a bracket? What is holding it in place strongly enough to allow you to manipulate the center board with pipe clamp? Thank you in advance for any assistance. I wasn’t clear about that part and I’m currently dealing with this exact issue.
I enjoy to watch your videos so much, now i want to build a house too. You said in one video that you used ~70,000 nails for building one house. Could you please clear a bit how much timber, plywood (with sizes) you use for build a house like this. Good work, Thank You and keep doing those videos. Bless you all!
Great video, very helpful. For existing home with load bearing wall, Can you join two small beams using metal connector between the two together to make one long beam to get rid of a column holding up the weight?
Hey thanks.. just using and iPhone 11 Pro and Videoleap editing on the phone ($50 per year subscription). Also use Envanto for royalty free music ($200 per year). Use PhotoFox app for thumbnails. Pretty good Mobil setup!
Question? What size beam would I need to clear span 40 feet also, what size beam for clear span 20 feet? This is for an awning. There will be nothing on top of it except for its own weight and 26 gauge R panel. Is there a calculation for this or?
Hello everyone! Help here. Im taking a wall down ( 12 ft long) and yes its a load bearing wall. I wanted to save money and instead of buying LVLs, i wanted to put 2 2x12 w 1/2 plywood. Thoughts?
Great trick with the screw. Something I’ve always done is nail my beams/headers/girders on a flat surface then install where necessary. Unless it’s a huge 3 or 4 ply header, then we’ll install it as a 2 ply and add the remaining layers after we stand the wall/beam etc. just to save our backs.
What if one board is great on one end but on the other end is narrower? Since my beam is sitting on top of 6 x 6 post, is it acceptable to use a composite shim underneath the one that’s too narrow in order to flush the tops?
... i first saw that nail flush trick from i believe is a prominent carpenter in youtube (who is already dead).. just forgot his name.... I'm not sure if its from a TV show from the past that just re-uploaded... seems so old as he was not using any tools and basically hammered every nail.
Neat trick but that beam will never pass inspection. You cannot bury your fasteners. The inspector wants to see that there are sufficient nails and that they are properly placed. FAIL!
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Awesome. No problem then. Thanks for the quick reply. I always carried a few clamps with me back in the day before I retired. No RU-vid to learn from back when I started. Just figured it out myself. Lasers replaced my plumb bobs too.
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers I have question. My main carrying beam in my house is starting to twist (over 40 ft long, 3 2x10s). What can I do to fix it? I see what you did here, but my beam already has a load on it.
Thanks for the tip and when it comes to saving screws in reusing them I wish these younger guys would get the clue you don’t throw hardware away valuable I did young mechanics throwing out parts for bumpers and all the hardware for lift kits in such crazy
I'm trying to do this with a 4PLY cedar beam that I'm making to replace my primary carrying beam, but I'm finding it almost impossible to get them plum and level. Does it matter if they're not 100 percent in line with each other, or can I just plain them... I feel like I'm being way too picky about them being perfect lol
If you pull the tops of the plies flush with each other, doesn't that make it possible for the bottoms to be uneven, so you might only have one or two of the plies making contact with the post instead of all three?
Anyone know a collection of these “tricks”? I’ve picked up a few for bending and pulling twisted wood into place during framing, and they’re absolutely critical to the process, but no one seems to teach them. I’m sure there are more to know than I know.
How can I find true vertical on a 45 degree or 12 12 pitch roof? I can use the laser they get the horizontal and of course the crosshairs project a vertical but it's not true vertical that's all I fiddle around with it but I don't want to fiddle anymore I want to know.
Note to @Better I loved your video. I designed (now retired Product Development Engineer) half the parts on that Paslode you are using. Paslode gets sued every year from contractors who have lost an eye. It goes before the court,and the plaintiff is asked " Were you provided safety glasses with the nailer when you bought it? Does it state on the side of the nailer that you must wear safety glasses when using? " Were you wearing them? Plantiff "no" ; Judge: "Case dismissed." The problem is that no one can make a perfect nail. There are carbon inclusions in the steel. The heads go 'ping' and fly around the room. Save your eyes my man.
Yeah, us old trade workers know a thing or two because we have done a thing or two. One day you'll be in our shoes. Our minds say we can still swing a hammer, but our joints creek like an old rusty door hinge. lol
I have seen people use a 2x12, plywood and 2x12. DO we need the plywood sandwiched in between for something. I am going to build a small cabin and getting notes before I even start.
@Jj Moss Thanks. I have seen so many videos this week on framing. I remember this because around 1998 I helped on a few jobs and never saw anyone else doing that. I was around 15 at the time. Thanks
Just wondering why you wouldn’t use a 6x beam structural 1 beam? Or if it’s a supporting member inside a framing system why not use a paralam or versalam. Crowning and shear nailing a built up beam widely used and is recommended by architects but one piece of lumber goes up faster than assembling the time taken. I’m just wondering. 46 years a carpenter and 26 years general contractor
I'm looking at making a beam out of 2x10's but wanting to notch my 6x6 post to set and attach the beam to the post that way. What I can't really find any information on is how much of the 6x6 can you notch without having issues?
Guessing, but you can probably notch it all the way off, i.e. he put his beam on top of the post. If he had notched he could have clamped to the unnotched to verticalize the beam. Notch if you need to stabilize or want flush surfaces. Just my thoughts.
Hey I have 3 2x6s nailed together like this for a rafter in my garage. They are about 13 feet long. I'm trying to figure out how much weight this "beam" can support as I want to put a pulley on it and use as a hoist
I understand that but unless ur lumber is super messed up u should only have to run a couple through and if it really is that bad u should get some of ur money back
Your jobs muat pay alot of cash to be spending the time you do on things. Dont get me wronge im a perfectionist but i gotta find that medium of making money and good clean work or its all for nothing
I bet when he thought you that trick, he pull back the nail gun tip with his fingers, kept gun 2 inches from beam and shot the nail into the top leaving the head exposed just enough to grab with the claw! No? Just my uncle?
