Nice one. After the first it sort of seemed odd that the build was “not great” and I was watching it through to see if there was a big reveal. These two vids are that. Really enjoyed the follow on and this is shaping up to be a nice build. Love the emphasis on “achievable” vs perfection. I think thats a much overlooked aspect of the youtubes 🤣
@@MannsModelMoments thanks brother...much appreciated.....on a different subject i have a kit that has doje a dissapearing act.. cant find it anywhere.....abd i KNOW i didnt sell it or give it away.lol🤣🤣🤣
New subscriber Excellent instructional video! Great idea to present 'how to avoid simple mistakes' by demonstrating those mistakes and then follow up by demonstrating the results that can be achieved by fixing the same mistakes. I think you've pitched this at the perfect level for the beginner/improver, there are already plenty of RU-vid videos showing incredible results which are simply unachievable for newer modellers who have not honed their skills through practice and patience. There are still obvious issues with the rebuild, but I applaud your decision to aim to make the rebuild 'better' rather than perfect. 'Perfect' is an impossible aspiration for modellers which can create stress and disappointment which in turn takes the pleasure out of the process, I know, I got too hung up on perfect and ended up needing a two year break from the hobby. I utterly agree with your advice to be patient and enjoy the hobby, being happy with what they can achieve will motivate newer modellers to continue, and over time they (we) will progress and improve.
Awesome CHannel. Just subscribed. IPMS Modeller myself. Note on the Stripping paint: DO NOT USE BRAKE FLUID: It'll brittle your plastic. If you're using ENAMELS, use Oven cleaner. If you're using Acrylics, Use Isopropyl Alcohol. If you're using Lacquers, Use Lacquer Thinner (Tamiya's works best In my Experience). Lacquer thinner will also dissolve paint on clear parts without damaging them so that's a major plus. I'll binge watch all your other videos and I'll stay in touch. Thanks again!!
first time watch ANY video on making model kit aircraft was your video "10 Beginner Mistakes that are holding back your modelling - and how to avoid them" 40 minutes ago. I use to make them from the age of 13 to when I was 24. I was going to make a commit that I never used "sprue goo" I just melted some plastic with glue!!!!!!!! BUT I did check on Google what "sprue goo" is LoL NEVER new what it was called. I never like buying replacement parts found it more fun (and hard work) to make the parts I got with the kit as good as I could get them or completely making new parts. BUT watching your other video and this one (going to watch part 2 now) I might go to the local super market when I get paid next and get another kit? See if I can still do them as good as I use to (37 years ago) and if I enjoy making them as much as I did. Great video
@@MannsModelMoments well 35? year ago you could buy a modeling putty, BUT I thought it was "NOT VERY GOOD!" to say the least. Going to buy some brushes next week and look at some models. you have got me thinking I have to build at least one more model, to see if I still enjoy building. I only kept my models for a month or so then throw them in the bin as I only enjoyed making them not keeping them. THANKS again for great video
@@roytelling6540 The recent Airfix starter kits are actually very good if you like 1/72nd scale aircraft, and if you're in the UK they're on sale at Lidl or Aldi for just £6.99 including paint, brush and glue.
This is awesome, but I got to say, you are doing stuff that is way beyond beginners. I've taken up building models for just recently, and struggling with some kinks that just don't want to fit together or gaps in the joints. I've built kits and getting better with each one, but got a long way to go.
Understood, but this is really for people who are wanting to progress from beginner on their modelling journey, to be aware of things that they can look out to improve as they go along.
I have a Pontiac Ventura car kit coming in that I know will need to be modified (model year is a '76 and I need a '77). These videos will be invaluable to getting as close as I can! Thank you so much.
Wow! This is a great tutorial. Thank you so much. I'm getting back into the hobby after 25 years away and needless to say, I want to do better than my teenage self. Two questions: 1)what chemical did you use to remove the old paint,or what do you recommend, and 2) what was the powered tool you were using for drilling out the holes? Thank you.
There's a video on the drill , which is available through my Amazon webstore. What I used to strip the model was "LAs Totally Awesome". Dettol also works.
Love the attention to detail. Zinc sheet is good stuff, but a bit clumsy for the really fine stuff. Also recommend you have a play with working down rough canopy castings, work up through the grades to about 600 and hit it with hydrocarbon vapour. Works a charm, I use a cheapo steamer. Just vent well and stay well clear of the vapours, obviously no ignition sources. Can work rough stuff down to really nice shape and detail. 👍
The sheet I used was fine brass sheet (about as fine as you can get, more delicate than photo-etch), not zinc. I did mention working through grades of abrasives in the video, but only wanted to demonstarte what was possible even with a "rush job". Not sure I would recommend using a steamer with any solvents though - there have been several accidents involving these for 3D print smothing on the same principle.
Hello! I'm glad I found your channel. I am an armour modeller, but I took a brake from the hobby for a year. Now I really want to try and build my first aircraft model. Your videos will be really helpful for me!
I love how you make this about technique and methods, rather than concentrating on the latest and greatest kits. I notice you have brushed up your pronunciation of the name of the plane (the final 'e' is not silent); good on ya ;-) Now as for spelling: No 'c' there; it's "Falke".
Yeah I realised after uploading I'd added an extra "c"....for e of habit from a native English speaker! Sadly it's not possible to edit RU-vid videos once uploaded....
Great video! Thank! Cannot wait to put those tips into practice. Do you have a list of equipment used! What is that pledge coat you mention? Seems tamiya products are quite expensive, wonder if you can get more local products? It seems this kit definitely isn't for a beginner with all this rework needed, although as you say, everyone finds their satisfaction in their own journey!
Glad it was helpful! All the tools and equipment i use are in my Amazon storefront, and any purchase through there (not just the stuff on my shop) earns me a small commission, so helps the channel. You can find the link in any of my videos. As for the Karo kit - no, definitely not a kit for the beginner, but a good kit to easily illustrate these things where I'd otherwise have to use a lot of different kits each with one or two of these issues!
That's very instructive indeed, thank you. You refer to a modelling drill a couple of times in the video, a "Wowstick". I did a google search, and there seem to be a number of these, which appear to be different from one another. You mention in one of the replies that the one you have has low rpm and high torque. Do you have a link for where to purchase this item, please?
I have lists of the tools and materials I generally use in my Amazon Store (linked in the video description). The "strengthening glue" was something called spre-goo, which is a home-made material from plastic sprues mixed with glue!
Great series 👍... one question if you don't mind... would you share with me where you purchased that electric pin vise.... it seems to work great... does not spin to fast... no cable needed.... thank you for sharing.
@@mozza2314 Sprue Goo is cut up pieces of sprue mixed with model cement - I cover it briefly in this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JS5LT6Sgc1M.html
What are the tail piece pins made of? Tiny nails? Also, rubbing alcohol/isopropanol removes (most) acrylic paint very well and is nowhere near as nasty as break fluid.
Great video! How small of a bit can you install in that electric hobby drill? I've been doing everything by hand and this looks like it would make my life soooo much easier! I need to be able to install down to a #80.
The bits all have the same base diameter, and come with the tool. I'm not sure what other makes of drill bits fit (if any) as I'd probably not use an electric drill for very small bits as it's likely to destroy them
@@davidblankenship7985 Unfortunately most drills are WAAAY too fast on rpm to do this safely, either for you or your model. The Wowstick is low RPM (~420) high torque which is perfect for modelling and I can't imagine using a drill-pin-vice-0.5mm drill bit combo with any precision or without breaking the bit!
@@davidblankenship7985 Finest twist bit I have is .28mm and I've never used it, seems incredibly fragile just to handle. No way I'd be trying to use it in a hand drill. I've used .5mm in a Dremel flex shaft a fair bit, but I've snapped a fair few too, doesn't take much at all.
Focus issues usually come when I'm digitally zooming from a wide shot, where I only notice in post-edit. I'm using F22 with a Pentax DLSR and lens and shooting in 1080p, so base footage is usually crisp, but as I'm making whilst shooting I'm focussing on the model rather than the camera. I hope to add another camera for "over the shoulder" shots in the future if financially viable.
@@MannsModelMoments Wonder if they changed it later. I noticed the picture was dated 1940. Thank you for pointing this out, you obviously do proper research. Very interesting subject!
@@richardbreisch8049 By 1940 the pre-propduction units were being used as factory protection aircraft, they were the only "working" unit and the aircraft in the photo above (Number 7) is the one I've seen modelled incorrectly showing the seat facing rearwards. Kurt Tank did do iterative designs as a night fighter etc, but these never went further than the drawing board.
@@MannsModelMoments Will do. I'm just suggesting - for consideration for beginners - it will be helpful to have: a: Video showing all the wrong ways to do X. b: Video showing the proper, expert ways to do X. What you have in this one is showing c: How to repair/correct a. The point is how likely are people to repair/correct a POS result. The kits are affordable as a pizza order for most people.
No, you've completely missed the point here. I'm using a limited run kit because it highlights the errors, making them easier to see, rather than me using half a dozen other kits each with one of the issues. Limited run kits are NOT generally that cheap, either - the Karo Falke was not, because it's a subject that no one else did in this scale at the time and they're not that common, so price was not a consideration. Here I've shown the issues (a) and how to correct them. These can be applied on any model.
I think it would have been better if you had bought two identical kits and made one “poorly” and one “correctly”. I’m not sure how valuable rebuilding the original poorly built kit is. I’m also a little bit concerned that you may have younger viewers learning from example. You should never draw a hobby knife blade towards you. Reposition the piece and carve away from you. I did definitely learn some new techniques and use of products I have never heard of before that I’ll check out. Thanks.
This isn't designed as an "Introduction to Modelling" video, and it's not aimed at younger viewers, s whilst you're correct on the use of a hobby knife, I'd expect my audience to know this if they're allowed sharp objects! As for two kits - I don't see the point you're making, as what I was showing here was that I wasn't "hiding" anything by using a different kit, but producing a different result with the same kit using differing or adjusted methods. Nevertheless, thanks for the comments and I wish you well on your modelling journey!
I don't understand your point of view or comment here - this is a follow-up to the prior demonstration video, it's not meant to be sequential models in a timeline!
